I am so disappointed with Dapol. If it cost £50 I would try and find out why it is derailing. But £157 straight out of the factory? Not my job to make sure it runs correctly. This is not the first one I have had trouble with, GraFar runs fine straight out of the box so I will stick with them from now on.

The flanges are very shallow too. Probably a combination of things. Either way, if it doesn't run out of the box it goes back. Not my problem to fix. Cheers

I would investigate if I had bought a second hand one. As it's new it was much easier to take it back and exchange for a GraFar. I wont be buying any more of them. I think that shaft drive is the worst idea I've ever seen.

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 Surely there must be a locomotive chassis, that is powered in the loco, that could be made to fit the body? Can you get a Manor GWR loco driven from any other manufacturer? Maybe time to check out Shapeways, and Thingiverse. There are some on Shapeways, one around £60. 4mm scale, but a lot of creators do re-scale their models.

Yes, my problem exactly, and solution :-) James in Oregon

@@jamesritson1518 It's a common solution - take it back and get a Farish.

I hope you have better luck than I. There are several Dapol GWR locos I wanted but once bitten twice shy I'm afraid. I'm no expert on what sort of loco it is or it's origins. I've read so much advertising blurb I probably got 2 mixed up. Cheers

Glad you got one sorted. There seems to be so many possibilities as to why it's happening. All I know is it seems very common.

Works very well, when run it, I have 6 and 5 9fs too, all run perfectly...

I think they need to get rid of that shaft drive. Thinking about it now I wouldn't be surprised if it's the tail wagging the dog and it's the shaft making the loco come off.

@@paulkandi I'm curious to know how you run in a loco that won't stay on the track? I had a Dapol Britannia which was a pile of... and that wouldn't even stay on a rolling road. The advice to return it is good advice (I tried to fix mine which was definitely a bad idea).

I've got 4 GraFar and not a problem. Smooth and quiet runners. I also have 2 older ones which are fine and I'm bidding on old one now too on ebay. No complaints with Farish. Cheers.

I had one of those Schools. It had the same struggle and it had to go. Which was sad. I've read a few things about the Dapol forum and them not taking responsibility. The only GraFar I had a problem with was the Fairburn tank. It just wouldn't run straight, too many joints in the rear pony for my liking. But everything else is fine. My eyes are telling me I need to go OO if only to see what I'm doing but I'm too far down the N rabbit hole now. Cheers

I Had the same problem with N Gauge, 5 years or more, still unreliable track work and locos, so I just sold it all and went for O Gauge, Wow! what a difference! Dapol Pannier with factory fitted sound, Brilliant! The engineering in their O Gauge models is top drawer, I couldn't be happier!

@@alanwhite6293 The larger scales are easier to model but I like my little stuff and it's too late to change now.

They are pretty poor. This is not the first one that has given me trouble. I will not be buying anything more from them. Plus their spares situation is a joke.

I can make an old Minitrix run sweetly but I'm not happy with a new one that runs poorly straight out of the box. I would agree they are getting lighter. You can do an awful lot with a modern plastic mold but you've got to put the weight back in there. Hello from just down the road from you. Or is it up? Cheers

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 Depends on whether you are north or south of Swindon! 😄

@@PaulB-justme I'm up in Glosser where they can't speak english!

I agree all my steam models are Union Mills Steam Locos bar one and are excellent runners with plenty of pull. I've only ever returned one loco back to UM for a new motor at a nominal charge. I do have a Farish Castle which is excellent. My Dapol Diesel Class 25 isn't great and kept derailing until I removed some pieces. However my Dapol 00 gauge GWR Streamlined Railcars are good.

@user-nc3bz3jm5q I have an older Minitrix LNER A4. I know that the chassis comes from a continental loco, so officially is the wrong size for an A4 - but it is heavy and powerful, and pulls a rake of 10 coaches with ease, even on the slight slopes on the model railway clubs exhibition layout, as do the Union Mills locos!

I had a schools. Same problem with corners. It's gone now.

It's not so much the motor in tender as that shaft drive I think. I've got a Farish standard 5 which is tender drive and it's wonderful. The Peco I had was tender drive and worked really well. I only sold it due to lack of spares. Cheers

It's common with Dapols. All those drive bits going round and round. It might of sounded better if I could of run it in. But it wouldn't run. Catch 22.

It wasn't, you are correct. It was dissapointing all round. Cheers

Morning Ron, when you consider how much they cost a bit of quality control wouldn't go amiss. But it does seem to be a problem with Dapol. I have seen so many negative comments on other peoples videos it seems to be a common problem. Sadly the layout must go as I need to recover everything on it. I learnt a lot from this and I want to correct some mistakes and have something a bit bigger. Cheers

If I had got from ebay I would try to fix it. Brand new I'm not putting up with a non runner. It went back like the one before it. They have lost a customer and judging by the comments I'm not the only one. Cheers

The price of this stuff is going up exponentially! WHich was one of the appeals of buying Dapol, always that bit cheaper. Now I see why. Diesels just don't do it for me. All the modern trains look like they came out of a jelly mould. Thay all look alike, which is of course a product of efficient stream lining. I can't love them at all. Cheers

The diesels seem to be fine. Everyone singing their praises. I have one myself. But the steamers just aren't right. Even Sams Train said so. It's not just me who has problems with them.

I was close but no cigar. I think I read it in advertising blurb.

Except some of the granges re-used wheels and motion from moguls.

@@532bluepeter1 Perhaps if mine had it might of gone round the bloody corner! 🤣🤣

@@ngaugeonashelf4417Have you checked other comments here about tweaking the universal joint?

@@532bluepeter1 I did read them. I'm under no obiligation to fix their quality control. Any more than I would with any other product of any type. It's either 100% or it goes back, like a fridge, a tv or a wardrobe whose doors don't close properly. Cheers

It all looks very good plus they do GWR but if it doesn't run right it's worthless. I'm going to stick with GraFar from now on. It seems to be a common problem with the tender locos and that shaft drive.

Well, you've been very lucky. I've had 5 Dapols now and only 1 makes it round corners well.

I don't know what the issue was Paul. If it doesn't run right straight out of the box it's going back. Sams Trains had some issues too with Dapol N gauge. I've had a Schools, it derailed from time to time and I thought it was my track, especially as I'm not very skilled. I sold it. I got a GWR 2-8-0 and it's noisy but runs okay ish. I got the Britannia class and that likes to derail and will not run backwards at all. It derails all the time backwards. And now 2 of these. Someone said I need to run it in properly. How? If the bloody thing wont go more than a few feet. Cheers.

My Minitrix 9F has no problem with that corner. Looking at the Dapol I would say the wheel flanges are too shallow.

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 "I would say the wheel flanges are too shallow." You have a point there. There are one or two manufacturers adopting this design with shallow flanging. Might look more realistic but pointless if they keep derailing over points, crossings and tighter curves. I'm afraid you'll just have to adopt my tactic, just don't buy them. 😮‍💨

@@TheSps24 Some things should be oversize. Larger than scale. Flanges and couplings seem to be 2 of those items. I was going to be buying a Dapol train pack this summer. I'll save my money now. Cheers.

It's gone Paul, as is the one before it that it replaced. Everything new I've had had been no problem. Light oil, 30 minutes each way. Except Dapol steam engines. They all struggle. I can get a 50 year old Minitrix non runner going but not a Dapol that is brand new. It wasn't just this one, it's been every one. Cheers.

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 I fully agree with your taking the problematic NEW loco back. Dapol need to learn and improve their standards.Anything NEW should perform fine from day one and should not need running in just in order to get it to function properly !

It is a real shame that you have had these problems with your Dapol N gauge locomotives. I have purchased quite a few locomotives from them and I have been absolutely delighted with them although I have to admit that they are ‘O’ gauge. It is a shame that they have a problem with the smaller gauge. Regards from Ron

@@RonCooper-nl4pn Morning Ron, it seems there are lot of different experiences with Dapol. The only experience we should have is that they work properly straight out of the box. Cheers

Already looking forward to your video.

Hello Ian, I've had some problems with Dapol. The s models I got of this. The Schools class started derailing. The Britannia class derails in reverse. The diesel I have is wonderful so I put it down to the shaft drive and weighting of the loco. Either way I'm not risking any more money on them. Cheers

I've got a Dapol diesel and it's great. Got a broken exhaust that you can't get spares for. Their spares situation is a joke. I don't understand how they can be so poor as QC and spares when GraFar seem to be so good. Shit, I can get spares for MInitrix 1970's models better than a 2 year old Dapol!

I have a few Dapol diesels including the dreaded pacer but they all run pretty well. My class 50’s are also very quiet. However with steam I have a pretty new A4 which has issues with the drive from the tender and also slowing down considerably on relatively reasonable corners. It is also pretty noisy. At the same time I bought a Farish Duchess which I cannot fault at all!

@@johnlevey9935 I was going to buy another Dapol train pack this summer. Not now.

Agree. Their steam tender locos are awful

I run 7 Dapol tender locos all with that drive mechanism and all good. I would say check the driveshaft is properly seated at both ends and check the loco to tender wires aren’t fouling anything underneath. The design won’t be repeated in any new tool models but it does work very well.

I think they need a complete rethink about that shaft drive. Ditch it for starters.

I am learning the hard way. The tank I have seen on another channel and they too had running problems. I was going to get the GraFar 5MT in green but he couldn't find it amongst his stock so I got a 2MT in green instead and £13 credit back on my card. I have a thing about the 2MT and smaller locos.

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 well I look forward to the review! Thanks for the videos, love watching them 😊

@@nickvdW1958 Cheers

James, being across the pond makes life very difficult for you. In the comments people have said how poor the after sales service is. Must be a nightmare for you. That is why I took it back to the shop - they at least will know how to deal with Dapol better than I. If I had bought an old one from ebay I would investigate and fix the problem. I'm not going to fix one straight out of the box, it should be perfect from new. I've looked at the flanges and they look so shallow compared to other manufacturers. Flanges in N gauge should be bigger and not 1:144 scale. Best of luck with your problems.

I have Grange, and it too is a real dog. I stripped it down, and the holes for the drive pinions are way too big.

@@56NeilWatson I can't stand the noise of the ones that do work. The new Graham Farishs I have bought have been practically silent. Plus I don't have to repair them. Cheers

@@56NeilWatson I wouldn't like to say what is the exact problem with this one but I had 2 and they both failed. Off ebay I would fix it, brand new it goes back.

I solved the problem by taking this second one back and changing for a Graham Farish. They seem to work far better. I don't mind working on a 50 year old non runner MInitrix but I'll be damned if I'm working on a brand new one. Cheers

With Dapol's back up being so poor it's easier and quicker to repair them myself.

@@PiddleInTheMarshbyMarkIreland That's why I went to the shop. Let them deal with it rather than me getting stone walled. Funnily I'm looking across the screen and one of the recomended videos for me is about Dapol reliability. Seems to be a common problem. Cheers

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 I have complained so much to Dapol they now won't talk to me. But I am claiming a victory because their new Class 59 and 66 have the motors from the Class 50 which are great.

@@PiddleInTheMarshbyMarkIreland I'm claiming victory by not giving them hard earned any more.

I'm learning the hard way. Dapol spares are a joke too. How can I get spares for a 1970's Minitrix easier than a 2 year old Dapol?

I have given up on them too now. Too many locos just struggle and that link from the tender is just plain stupid.

I seem to have been unlucky. The diesels seem to be just fine and good runners. Cheers

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 Their OO gauge Class 73 is a very quirky beast and much criticised, although it does have a lot going for it. Dapol adopted a ridiculous pick up system which basically results in the contacts getting covered in grease and then slipping off the axles altogether. When that problem is overcome, it runs beautifully and is a very nice model. I'm not averse to making allowances for things like that if the price is right, but they really need to get their quality control and R&D sorted out.

I've bought 4 Dapol steam engines. I have 2 left and those are not perfect runners at all. The Britannia didn't get it's half hour in reverse when running in as it derails in reverse. I've had my fill of them now. Cheers

I don't mind messing with a 50 year old Minitrix but I'll be damned if I'll put up with crap straight out of the box. I've seen so many problems with Dapol now on youtube. Even Sams Trains had some issues with derailing. I was looking at the size of the flanges and they are very shallow. Some things should be made over size and flanges are one of them. Sad to hear the company now taking complaints seriously, that was the main reason I went back to the retailer - he can have the headache of dealing with them. Another annoying feature is lack of spares and yet GraFar do spares for locos going back years. Thanks for the comment.

Hello Paul, I will never know about the battle of britain as they will not be seeing the colour of my money again. There was 3 other locos I wanted but I'm not taking the risk anymore. Cheers

The 2 I had of this model should never of left the factory. No QC at all. Plus it's not the only Dapol model I have had trouble with. Very upset about that and will rely on GraFar from now on.

Not my job to make it better. Dapol should have some quality control. I took it back and replaced it. This is not the first one to give me trouble. The Schools class was just as bad and is gone. I'm not overly impressed with the Britannia class either. I thought it was my track laying but everything else runs with no problems. It's just Dapol steam engines. Cheers

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 As you say the prop shaft arrangement is not ideal.

@@ngaugefouroaksstreetstatio6932 Judging by the comments a lot of people have had an issue.

I saw that on Sams and left a comment. I don't know if it's the wheels, the flanges, the tie bar or the shaft drive. All I know is it should run right straight out of the box. Cheers

I was very sad about it as I wanted to collect their GWR range but I'm not risking another purchase. It seems to have had quite a few views, how do I get that on the golf channel????

I think they have the design wrong. Put the motor in the tender and drive the tender, put the motor in the engine and drive the engine. I really do think there is an issue with the drive shaft and obviously quality control. The first one I had was worse than a 50 year old Minitrix that hasn't been run for 40 years. I got rid of it straight away as it was the second one that wouldn't go round corners. Cheers

When i look closely my thoughts are the flanges are too shallow. I don't know about OO so can't comment on that. When I compare Dapol to GraFar and MInitrix and Peco it's rearly obvious. Cheers

@ngaugeonashelf4417 on the Hymek, I thought the flanges were to big.

@@DavidJones-wx4im I don't know what a Hymek is I'm afraid. My knowledge is limited. I know on code 80 you can have problems with large flanges hitting the chairs. I know that isn't my problem that I have here. Cheers

@ngaugeonashelf4417 the Hymek was a Class 35 diesal hydraulic that ran on BR's Western Region.

@@DavidJones-wx4im Oh right, thankyou. I love this hobby, there is always someone who knows the answer to any question. I shall delve into google and read up on it. Thanks

I'm certainly not risking any more of my money on them. I've had too many problems.

It would appear many have had the same problem. Shame really.

I've never owned a Rivarossi, I guess I have nver seen them in shops. The old Peco tender drive I had for a while was very good. The loco part had enough to be pushed and stay on the track. Some of these old locos are brilliant and so easy to clean and lube. I only let the Peco go because spares were non existant. Which isn't surprising on such an old loco. I don't know what their quality controls are but judging by the comments they are most definately poor. Cheers

I am not averse to tender drive if they put enough weight in the loco. I just think it's that bloody awful shaft drive idea. The Minitrix i have doesn't like being stood for a month and I always give the motor a little clean. 5 minute job. But I can't be arsed with Dapol any more. I'll give their new stuff a miss and just wait for Farish to put out new locos. Cheers

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 The problem with tender drive is that it is pushing at a central point from behind the loco, so as the front starts to go around a curve the tender is still trying to push the rear of the main loco straight until the tender gets on the curve with it, even then it's still upsetting the balance, trying to push straight at the point where the loco and tender bend. larger scales might be more successful with it, but N Gauge not so much in my opinion. it's a shame that their tender locos are so tempramental, Dapol Locos look fantastic. I think it's time they got the motors in the loco itself and the DCC in the tender. I hope the new Westcountry Class are not tender drive, but suspect they will be sadly. If so, you can count me out too. Good Luck.

@@chuffinel7676 From what I have read in the comments it can be the shaft that wants to stay straight. Plus the wires between the loco and tender that can interfere as well. The diesels run well as they have neither of these problems. Whatever it is I will keep my money in my pocket until it's fixed. Cheers

If you ride the train from Gloucester to Bristol Temple Meads you will find out what a corner is as you slow down to 15mph to get round it. That's a corner.

I cannot agree more. I know people complain about GraFar being more expensive but I haven't had a problem with them. I'd rather buy a 1970's Minitrix and get it going than but a new Dapol. My other issue with them is the small couplings which let go too easy. Ah well, going to the GraFar day out and will see what they have for sale there. Then I might just dump the other 2 Dapols I have on ebay and cut my losses. Another problem is lack of spares.

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 i have just noticed after getting this reply but look at the model in the first seconds of the video whilst still boxed, the number plate on the cab side is applied at a wonky angle , lol .

@@gavinblackburn3105 I did notice that myself. It's just poorly done. Poor design and poor execution. I don't know where they are made but it looks like cheap hong kong christmas cracker stuff.

It certainly does. I've looked back at videos of the Dapol Britannia class, the Dapol Schools class and they both had derailing problems. I know I'm crap at laying track and ballesting but it's only Dapol that struggles. As well as that awful shaft drive I think the flanges are too shallow. Cheers

They do seem to be a pile of crap. I'd rather spend more money. Noisy and that shaft drive is a joke.

It went back and was exchanged for a GraFar. These things should run correct right out of the box. I got told I should run it in. How? It didn't make the first corner!

My Dapol railcar is really nice, runs very well. But I'll be damned if I can find spares for it. I have no idea how you make models and not provide spares. I'm not happy.

@@ngaugeonashelf4417 agreed,this is problem, its not very clever...............jpj

@@JohnJohnson-cn9fh I tried Peters Spares but it just says out of stock. I don't hold out much hope to find a tiny bit of trim.

Hello Peter, a comprehensive reply. First it has gone back and been exchanged. Like any product if it isn't right out of the box I take it straight back. This was the second one so my patience was nil. One thing I would say about my curves and my awful track laying is that Dapol is the only manufacturer that struggles. I therefore blame Dapol. I am not a modellor. I have no skills. I can watch youtube and pick up tips from other youtubers but I will never be a modellor. To be honest I'm not sure I want to be either. It's a hobby and I do my best with these fists of ham and my limited eyesight. However, there is nothing more peasurable than taking a Minitrix non runner and making it run. Maybe because I'm an electro mechanical enginner (although I fly a desk these days and don't get my hands dirty). I understand low voltage DC and moving parts. I will not be modifying this layout. In fact this layout will be dismantled. It was a learning curve to going on to bigger and better things. Including better curves. Small boards require set track curves, large boards do not. But I am no modellor, I will not be scratch building anything and I will simply do my best with what I have. Now if you want to see serious then watch my golf channel and me hitting a 20 foot putt with 12 feet of break downhill. Now then I'm an artist, but not with railways. Thanks for your input. You are kind.

​@@ngaugeonashelf4417 Thanks for your reply. There has been a win here: someone liked. That is the point of all this: someone was encouraged as I often am, and frequently from comments. It is a great way to spread encouragement. Two things come to mind. There is confusion over the 'test' layout - I misunderstood 'This isn't my track'. The comment was about layout specs and was not a criticism. My fault, like everything else - excepting Golf. Secondly, congratulations on making non-running classical Minitrix run. My recent Minitrix history could be the subject of its own Oscar worthy horror film. It appears that Marklin cylindrical commutator brushes can be easily 'sized' to replace the Minitrix non-soldered brushes, and probably also the soldered brushes if plated first. Increasingly, and across the board, we cannot get spares. Utube is greatly useful in encouraging folk to get their old and second-hand models running: hopefully my comments were of use to someone mired in some 'Tropic of Calculus' somewhere (Tom Lehrer's idiom). I take a lot of good ideas from KZfaq and have made at least one friend. Comments are my way of giving at least something back. The comment previous to yours was on a Lima Cl. 50. Again: last I looked no brushes available though there might be now. That channel is providing something that matters for a lot of modellers. As with me, he is not an expert, but his channel is of value. As someone with engineering experience, have you got any ideas on a raw material from which to make brushes, or are the variations in specific applications so variable as to make the question effectively unanswerable? One modeller uses old washing machine brushes for raw material; others starter motors etc.. The problem is we don't know what the factory specs for either the train or the 'washing machine' are/were. As I keep warning about a lot of what goes on modifying models: everything we do shifts the device away from factory settings; settings that were originally signed off by an engineer. Hence the question, and I think I know what the answer will be. Of course, let's remember that even just age steadily shifts a model from factory settings - magnet atrophy alone will do that. I notice one approach to isolating the brushes while 'DCCing' a certain loco involves feeding the traction current through a now isolated brush spring. If anyone is following this string the subject of traction current through brush springs is thoroughly and professionally dealt with by Dave Ramirez in kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e5uHY9uql7mxqYE.html Folk seldom listen. The meaty bit comes in the discussion after the repair. At least locos, repaired or not, should be regularly common-sense duration tested for heat buildup, and when in use subject to a conservative duty cycle. If you feel this is enough in your area and time permits, comments would be appreciated. Yours in the interest of encouraging sensible and affordable modelling. Much enjoyed - even if it is by computer. Don't forget to check blood-pressure after Golf. g

@@petert9749 Hello again Peter. The trouble with print is what is intended is lost in black and white characters. My experience with Minitrix brushes contains an awful lot of swearing and not much progress. They are so fiddly and I try to clean around them. One time I had a set pop out of the spring while cleaning and it took me over 40 minutes to get the damn things back in. If i had some serious trouble with a minitrix motor I would try and source one from ebay. In fact I have one now waiting patiently for parts. One youtuber I watch a lot of is OO Bill who repairs OO scale locos. It's larger, it's easier but is still helpful in N gauge. The biggest problem I see in N gauge with non runners is oil. The loco runs poorly so gets drowned in oil which makes it worse. Then I get a loco on ebay for cheap and clean it and get it back to running. Then I might sell it on for twice what I paid for it. As to replacment brush material, not sure. Best just to replace the brushes for new. But they will need running in as they will be flat and the commutator is round. I haven't done any DCC conversions as I don't run DCC. Not that I don't like it - I simply cannot afford it nor do I wish to chop up the wiring of my old locos. They are touchy enough without me making matters worse. However, I did buy a DCC non runner loco off ebay very cheap. I took the chip out and put in a blanking plate and it ran fine. I contacted the seller and told them what the resolution was and asked them if they wanted it back. I put it on with a buy it now price and he clicked the button to buy it back at the same price. He replaced the chip himself. When I get in the attic I'm going to record every step this time rather than skip ahead a month. I didn't do it on this as I didn't have the confidence to show off my awful skills! They are still awful but this time I will show how awful they are. Cheers

​@@ngaugeonashelf4417 Forty minutes! That is a brilliant effort; it took me longer than that to not find the brush springs. Your comments on replacing brushes with new was very much appreciated. Without factory specs it is about all we can say. As far a I know classical Minitrix brushes are no longer available and nobody has made reproductions. I know nothing of modern production Minitrix. I'm rattling my tiny mind to think of anything we have not said between us that might help an information hungry beginner. Old equipment is iffy. Further more, you never know when a kid is going to get hold of this stuff, so there is an imperative to make safe. I suppose duration (an hour or so) running to check for heat buildup is about as good as we can do. If a Minitrix works it is probably worth taking an Ebay punt on buying. Watch price; some of it is sold for way too much - I cut out at about 20 of your pounds. If inspection is possible look for condition of the pickup wipers on the wheels. Minitrix are about the only company in my experience who well manage wipers pressing on the wheels. Most non Minitrix of the era and many modern products I have seen (note the condition) have 'knife blade' wipers that lose tension and then contact. Insult is added to injury as the transfer to frame is via the top of the wiper, usually a bent loop, springing against the frame. Like the wheel contact tension is lost and so reliable contact. Remember this only my experience. Classical Minitrix have a wiper to transfer from bogie to a pad under the fuel tank. Often this loses tension. Easily fixed: just 'hard' wire with thin soft wire. These products are now at least forty years since: I don't know how much magnet life is left in the motors; neither do I know if one of Ronald Dodd's wonderful remagnetisers will work as there are two magnets nestled at opposite sides of the 'can'. For scratch building, modifying the chassis or remounting the components into a scratchbuilt chassis are for experienced modellers. Anyone following our string, just believe it! Let's just say it is not a job for a migraine day. No golf course is as difficult. Don't be afraid to pick up non runners for spares: when playing with all this I swapped out the rubber tyred wheels for non tyred. Rubber tyres are probably not replaceable at this distance and they play havoc with pickup. Common practice is to mount wheels in a drill/Dremel chuck for turning down, but this is fraught: a drill is not a lathe (ask at a club). Also remember these models have coarse wheel standards, and fitting Microscale couplers can be difficult, especially if you want frame mounting. These models are 'unit design' and are not made to be worked on. These are old models and old designs. For control (non DCC) ask around KZfaq or a club for advice on a good pulse/transistor throttle. I use Don Hansen's 'Throttle with a Future' from Kalmbach 'Model Railroader', June? 1975 for Half 'O' and N scale testing. It has a pulse circuit for starting and stopping the trains, but it can be turned off leaving main sequence running to smooth DC. I believe the components are still available, and if you can't build one alone, join a club. Always check heat. It turns a good loco into a really good loco, but a junker is still a junker. TEST! If it does not work under your conditions, you have gained experience and lost little. My power-supply is an old Triang P5A transformer, and all has been checked out by a qualified person. The Americans are lucky: they have Kato/Atlas, and a good used market. If you get a chance, have a long look at the Kato design, especially the pickup and current transfer from bogie to frame. Brilliant! Thanks to our host; would other viewers PLEASE share their experiences: it helps. For example someone shared the difficulties in moving classical Minitrix worms. It really helped, as did demonstrating turning down flanges. And yes: 'OO Bill' is excellent, as is 'Mr Snooze'. Also, for those struggling with eyesight and dexterity, try 'The Third Rail'. Yes it is Marklin, and No, it does not have to break the bank. Under limited space conditions, Marklin set-track can be seen as a form of N scale. Also remember Dave Ramirez' Warbonnet Trains' on servicing that Kato steamer. It includes a professional treatment of brush springs and how to run models. Would viewers PLEASE share experiences! And keep sharing. There is nothing wrong with being wrong; the only people who never muck up don't muck up because they never do anything. We just need to carefully alert to anything dangerous. Hope this helps someone. Thanks host.

I like that! Cheers

It's noisy and a poor design. It's a real shame as I intended getting more GWR locos. Now I will wait to see what GraFar produce next year.

It reminds me of Bachmann n scale American 4-4-0 drive its noisy not as poor designed

@@chasesrailwaylinesrr6447 I've not experienced any American models so can't comment. Plenty of European I haven't tried either. Cheers

Kind of Figure that I was just giving another example of a model that is similar to this rubbish

@@chasesrailwaylinesrr6447 Sorry if I miss read what you wrote. Not had this many comments before even on my golf channel. The brain skipping the words a bit. Cheers

I've found out the hard way. I've still got 2 and am considering selling one of them. It's an expensive mistake sadly.

I've got coaches and the couplings are so small they let go. I've only got 1 wagon. But yes, my money is not going in their direction again.

Kato look very good but not my era really. Cheers.

Do they make GWR steam loco's😂

It happens Pete. I think it's a poor design. Wouldn't surprise me if I had looked into it to find it's the shaft drive causing it rather than wheel spacing.

It's a common problem. Shift manufacturing and you have problems. Watching OOBill on youtube the chinses Horby models are just as poor.

John, it seems to be very common. I have al ittle more faith in my awful track laying now. The flanges look so shallow, never going to make it round a set track corner like that. Minitrix will go round a rad 1 curve and point.

I've got a Dapol Castle & a County in OO gauge, older locos now but they run great, well I'm only running N gauge on 1st and 2nd radius my GF stuff run's okay, I've got a couple of Dapol diesels and they run fine, I'm also not keen on the Dapol steam locos, the shaft on the A4 keeps popping out so if you don't connect everytime it just spins, if I'd have known when I bought it for my grandson brand new well words fail me it's a bag of yeah you know, John

@@johnbill9201 John, they are bad. I've got 1 Dapol diesel left which I like and runs well. In the steam I have the GWR 2-8-0 which is just about acceptable. Then the Britannia which really doesn't like bends at all. I might sell that one. In fact I will. I'd rather get something from Farish. Cheers

Swapped it out for Farish. Was a good swap too, ran straight out of the box with no problems.

Normally, Dapol 's OO gauge models are really good. I can't say for N gauge however, as I don't own any of those models.

@@pettra1 I can only speak for myself but I've had issues. But the OO does appear to be a lot better in every way. Cheers.

Bloody awful. When I run the GWR 2800 it ruins the sound which means editing a video becomes hard work. Having to turn it down in every clip. In reverse it sounded worse if that's possible. Then I buy a GraFar and it's so quiet and smooth. I know who will get my money in future.