All balls now includes these washers idk if they did before,I like this guy he's thorough and I run into his vids alot when looking for technical bike stuff

THANK YOU! I'm planning to order a tapered roller kit to replace my 1981 Honda CM400 loose bearings. I wasn't aware of this!!! Again, thank you for the invaluable info.

Oh man thats a video just in time. I was just about to install this on my rebuild and was thinking why the freak the seal hindered the bearing on my all balls kit. Was gonna install it anyway, now to find some spacers:) thanks

this is the best channel for information,i feel like im taking motorcycle classes.this really helps alot.thank you

I am glad I did mine before watching this . luckily I had no problems except snapping a screwdriver levering the bottom race out . I just got the cheapest kit of ebay . Taking panels and sorting the handlebars and electrics was the hardest part.

In all cases that I have seen the seal has a different "land" on the stem than the bearing, the seal does not contact the bearing it seats in the frame and seals against the land below the bearing on the stem... (lower seal) The upper seal sits against the stem (inner) race.

The seal contacts the cup bore in the frame and touches the roller cage. I've fitted dozens and if greased the performance is excellent. There is no rotation only oscillation and the whole assembly is necely damped. This instructional is inviting people to get into trouble by reducing thread engagement and putting things out of position.

Good information. I always buy OEM replacement parts from my local dealer. They can sometimes be more expensive but at least you know they are an exact replacement.

Great reminder to double check your parts before installation. I have learned the hard way not to trust the right parts are always packaged correctly

Excellent video and a great point about seal spacing. I have been less enthusiastic about the All Balls kits due to material construction of the bearing and the seal clearance issues.. I'm currently sourcing some Japanese kits from NTN and Koyo to see how the seal configuration compares but over all, I think the bearing quality is better regardless.

Top tip about the seal went to the workshop to check my kit that arrived recently but found i candy adjust the rubber seal depth by rubbing it in a circular motion on some 600 grade wet and dry paper took about half an hour for both but now perfect the difference is very noticeable without your download I would of just assembled the kit as was !! Thanks

Great information about any 2nd supplier part....and about though inspection...thanks.

I reckon All Balls have given you the wrong rubber seal for the bearings..... I have just checked the set I have here; and the inner washer part of the rubber seal bottoms out against the inner race... no matter how much you torque it down the rubber cannot touch the roller cage

Thank you for that just bought an all balls kit for gs 550 will be watching for that 👍👍

As stated, very rarely have these kits not been perfect right out of the box. BUT you must check! this video shows when they don't, how to fix it, and would help many when using other cheap brands of bearing replacement kits when it comes to Timken style replacement. I'm showing what I've seen a few times in hundreds of these installed over 20 years...I teach technicians "how to" be a mechanic and things to look for beyond remove and replace. Could you spare $2 and support us with even more benefits? Smash the subscribe button and bell! Join this channel to get access to perks: kzfaq.info/love/BhM8DCKnT3qXwTW0eToyCgjoin

I went to my local Yamaha dealer for a set of head stock bearings for a xvs650 hoping to get the original ball type, but they are supplying the all balls taper roller bearings too..... you would think they would be aware of this problem

Thanks for Highlighting this Shane, it seems it's happening with all "Pattern Part" suppliers, just reviewed a UK supplier (Pyramid Parts) and there are a few comments surrounding the same issue, so it would seem we either A) Buy the OEM part at an exorbitant price (no thanks) or B) Make sure you get the best fit you can, maybe utilising the old seals if possible, which isn't the answer, i know. Anyhoo thanks for the heads-up and i hope someone somewhere can rectify this issue !

That seal is intended to mate with the race, not the cage.

If you keep the old seals and cut away the rubber, would it be ok to use them as spacers? - if yes its a perfect fit washer every time....

I loved your aftermarket bearing video. I'm having the same problem on a 1986 es 250 big red. They keep saying the 22-1029 aftermarket upgrade is a direct fit. I've wasted about 120 dollars cause I kept them too long thinking I'm doing something wrong

I replaced my loose balls and the difference was incredible. All balls. Hardest part was removing the lower crown race.

Noticed my front axle has some freeplay meeting the wheelbearings, I uploaded 2 vids of this. Would you mind having a look to see if i should replace the axle or not. There is nothing in the manual about the diameter of the axle or wear. I trust your judgement. Mike

Excellent video!

It seems to me Shane that one should go OEM due to the variables in guessing the exact spacing on aftermarket fit. It could be too tight, or loose allowing water in.

hi! as you sais..its a ecxellent bearing kit brand..I use it on all my bikes...but as you said..that rubber seal at the triple tree neck go to tie on hondas..I need to modify as you do some time ago ..but thanks ..that confirm what I do is right....thanks

excellent vid, cheers

Why does over tightening make the steering notchy? Like the handle bars are centered and held in a certain spot.

Thanks Shane.

which is advisable?

Thanks Shane, so does the makers of these roller bearings (ALL BALLS etc) not know this and supply a spacer washer with kits. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you sir for the video

I ran into a similar problem with my 96 fatboy pivot bearings for the rear swingarm. I bought ALL BALLS and they were a hair to wide so I couldn't put the bar in between them that the pivot bolts screwed into. And yes they were for my make and model. It had me so confused!! So I ended up buying Drag Specialties pivot bearings and they fit, thank goodness. I thought maybe my swingarm was bent but no. Not the case. So hes correct you gotta check these aftermarket parts.

Thanks, useful info. But leaves the question why after market parts aren’t delivered with that additional washer/spacer.

In the service manual when re-installing, it mentions to install both outer races but only one inner race (lower). Could anyone explain why? Why the upper inner race get removed but not reinstalled?

Thanks! Very useful

Very helpfull.Thanks.

Where can i find these bearings? My bike doesn't have the top or bottom ones so I need to find the right size but I don't know how

The all balls kit comes with correct spacers I believe.

Torque of the after market bearings. Ball vs. tapered. Do you use factory torque settings?

Theres been countless pivot works linkage kits that ive installed that i actually have to lathe or file a couple thousandths off the inner sleeves to fit properly

wow thank you!

Where did you get that washer I need it

I brought a set of tapered for a 73 rd the bearings were to thick no threads to put nut on ended up buying proper bearing from yahama

Which is better ballrace or nuckle bearing ,pardon me

I need to get back on my bike where did you get that washer lmk asap

its lit 5:05 - 5:20

I recently installed a set of "All Balls" tapered bearings in my SR500 Yamaha The previous owner had already replaced the original bearings with tapered bearings and the outer race of the lower tapered bearing that I now needed to remove from the frame had a larger inside diameter than the original bearing would've had and so there was no lip to drift (strike) the bearing out This made it near impossible to remove the lower bearing race, I was going to weld a washer to the bottom of the bearing race but didn't for fear of badly damaging the bearing's seat in the frame I ended up grinding a thin screwdriver's blade to a sharp edge and bent it an inch or so from the tip of it's blade and managed to hammer the sharpened tip of the screwdriver between the bearing's race and it's seat in the frame and moved it enough to allow a washer to fit in between the bearing and seat and I was then able to drift this washer from above and by working the washer around the bearing I managed to remove it This caused slight damage to the seat but I was able to correct it The lower "All Balls" bearing I refitted has the same problem as the bearing I removed, no lip for future removal Another problem is these tapered bearings are apparently eight to ten millimetres taller than the height of the original bearings and this caused other problems with the way the top clamp sits relative to the steering stem After I managed to remove the tapered bearings fitted by the previous owner I should've thrown away both the old set and the new "All Balls" sets of tapered bearings and refitted a set of original races and ball bearings

I bought one of these kits for a VTX1300 and I didn't have this issue. Maybe its particular bikes that do.

Shane great video man, not gonna dissuade me one way or the other but i love learning new things,i am restoring a 550k that was parked since 1984,some inside, some outside but more outside than inside,lol,thing is rough but my magic hands will give this bike another life in the witness protection program,ha ha ha, anyhow i am subscribed and i wanted to ask you something.... I know when people put these tapered bearings in, they freeze the cup in the freezer and Ive actually seen the cup go in 3 quarters of the way and tap the rest which is not much with a brass punch very very carefully, my question is... what if a guy had access to a big ole drum of liquid nitrogen? i actually work in a machine shop,we overhaul big engines and we use it to drop inserts on the deck of the engines after we machine bad portions of them due to erosion caused by water over the years,once those inserts are frozen they drop in there like magic,would the nitrogen hurt the cup in this application or would it be ok? Reason i ask is because the inserts we freeze are pretty good size but these cups are tiny compared to that,just curious if it could be done, thanks man for all your teachings.

The question is, what if the bearings is broken. how to remove the outter race??

Thanks brother I am from Dhule, Maharashtra, India . But why the company provides Ball bearings in most of the bikes

You should have contacted All Balls and got their take on it?

That seal is not necessary. The Italian bikes with taper rollers as std kit, (MG LeMans, Duc 900 etc) Had a pressed steel cover with a 4mm lip that enshrouded the top of the headstock. there was never any problem with rust etc. LM grease it up, good to go. And a shallow lip rubber disc (stepped) under the bottom bearing.

Pls confirm the bearing size and model for Yamaha yzf r15 v2 2016 make.

For OEM just make sure the old matches the new...

The issue appears to be self clearing after awhile ha!

I have the same bearings as these.. Of you push the seal hard enough against the outer race that seal will flare outwards , you'll get a nice seal without the rubber rubbing on the bearings. I actually found the bearing set was. perfect. Again on the seal there is a line you can clearly see. That will bend once the seal faces against the outer race. Please can you do this test again but put the outer race on and press firm. There will not be any intrusion of the seal to the bearings.

Ruuber seal seats perfectly, you have to simply push it down, there is no ANY GAP. Everything seats perfectly!

I hate when people ask questions just to prove a point

Seal is no hitting cage, You have to push it down evenly, on Your wideo seal and cage is always with gap and askew. No gap, no problem, work like design.

You wouldn’t be trying to use the seal off the old bearings would you?????

So are you saying your better off With the ball bearing If that's what came with the bike Rather than switch over the role of Bearing That wasn't designed for it? Us Would Thank that most people Would catch that What I don't understand If it's that obvious, Why would they try to install it?

So these tapered bearing kits are incomplete junk is what your saying.

Yup.....yup......yup.......yup...

this seal goes on the bottom of stem & bearing on top of it

If you have to add spacers ... ITS NOT A GOOD KIT

Why do people think allballs are quality ? Get Koyo or NTS ?

Great channel! But, ALL BALLS are Chinese low grade products. Go oem, or go to bearing dedicated companies...

Whats the other word for a crf110?something french?lol..no seriously

Turn the seal around duh

Taper rollers bearings in head stem was about the worst thing to ever hit the mcycle aftermarket when I was an mc mechanic in the 70's , don't use, period - taper rollers bearing require preload resulting in braking effect at the steering head which is a great way to bring you just that much closer to owning a tank slapper special, don't ever race with them - ball bearings have precision point contact, no resistance in the steering, that's why they use them in steering heads - check them, if they are loose adjust them to just remove slack, if they are notched replace them but don't ever get the idea taper rollers bearings are a good idea - dirt bikes fine but road bikes, don't do it

Interesting.... 25 years fixing cars and bikes... Almost always I'm using allballs for steering bearings.( especially for honda ) Never in my life encountered this problem. By the way it seems like you are trying to match the bottom seal to the top race set. Hmmmmmm Maybe you are doing this on purpose? Hmmmmmm