Yes for sure!

Thanks for tuning in! I am glad I was able to make sense in the vid ha

:-D

I know the difference between the two levers, it was just an honest mistake where I clicked the wrong link in the shop when making the video. I 've updated the link in the description. I figured I'd get some push back from other arcade stick enthusiasts, but I really have spent years working on this and I stand by my conclusions in the vid.

oo i did buy a stick from etooki i like it alot. did have a hori RAP4 but it was not for me. so did some looking and so on and ended up buying as my 2nd stick i like it alot. helped me in tekken and street fighter where my inputs are cleaner now and i dont hold them like i did when i used a pad and mixbox/keyboard. the hori was to light and it was to easiy to go to high so a you get uf aswell when you only wanted a qcf. but its hard to know what is good and what is not. the best thing is sto test but that can be hard. and pay alot of money on a stick you may or may not like yea... so are there alot of diffrence in the other korean sticks? i have watched a few on youtube and it seems to be some but not to big... sounds more like entry/beginner level or starting of point but the "Taeyoung Fanta" is like the real thing-

You should! They are more similar and will probably fit your taste more

I m glad to hear that!! Still use this build and am really happy with it

Funny enough I'm the exact same boat as you lol So I'm going to try this out myself now

Oh easy answer!!!! Definitely go with the clear lower tension gromet, that s the winner :-) (I have this lever as well)

@@TheElectricUnderground Thank you for your reply, I really appreciate it. I've actually made up my mind and I'm planning on buying a Seimitsu lever. I'm stuck between the LS-32 and the LS-40. I want a lever with a shorter throw than the Sanwa JLF that makes diagonal inputs smoother. I've heard that the LS-40 has a shorter throw than the LS-32 and that the LS-32 has a stiffer spring than the LS-40. People say that the LS-40 in terms of tension feels like it's between the Sanwa JLF and the LS-32. I don't want the lever to have too much tension when I'm doing inputs so that I don't have to put a lot of force to get out my inputs so my wrist doesn't hurt. For reference I used the 2 lb spring on my Hori Hayabusa and it felt fine for me but when I put the 2 lb spring on the Sanwa JLF it felt way too stiff and my wrist was starting to hurt by doing motions like the IAD. Also I've heard that the shaft is shorter for Seimitsu levers, although I heard one person say that the shaft for the LS-40 is similar to the Sanwa JLF, but I can't confirm or deny this. Before I was planning on buying a whole new lever entirely I was just planning on getting a bat top for my Sanwa because I felt that my fingers weren't completely on the ball top. I was using the stick like you described in your video on how to hold a lever and when I do certain motions my index finger isn't on the ball top which gives me less leverage. I find myself constantly have to readjust my fingers so that my index finger can touch the ball top. I tried to overcome this by moving my index finger down forcefully to do motions like a double qcf on the left side of the screen but this just makes the motion slower to put out. If I use just my middle and ring finger to do the motion it isn't as precise and I wind up putting in too many motions for the input to come out. I was planning on playing with a bat top regardless of whether I kept playing on my Sanwa or if I bought a Korean or Seimitsu lever. I don't know what kind of Seimitsu lever you have or if you have both the LS-32 and the LS-40, but if the shaft is shorter on both of them and you're using the bat top, will it at least be taller than the Sanwa with a ball top? I believe it will be, but I just want to make sure it's tall enough so that I can reach it with my index finger when I'm playing on both sides. People say that the LS-40 is more suited for fighting games, while the LS32 is more suited for shmups. I've heard some people say that if you push the lever for the LS-32 too far against the gate that it moves the lever pops up out if the gate a little, which can feel awkward. I've heard that with the 2017 model, which is the new model that is standard that this issue is less apparent, but it's still there. Has that been true for you and if so does it bother you? I've heard that the LS-40 doesn't have this issue at all. I plan on using the lever mostly for fighting games, but I also plan on playing it occasionally with shmups like Metal Slug and others. If it's possible can you give get me your thoughts on both of the levers so that you can help me decide which one's right for me?

sounds like a really cool setup!

@@TheElectricUnderground It is. Like you I've been on the journey for that perfect joystick for a long time.

Yeah I'm really curious too.

Hmm both are actually very good, though I'd lean towards the full collar tanta

yeah it's an adjustment not to have a square gate anymore! You get used to it after a while though :-)

@@TheElectricUnderground I just ordered an LS-32 (and a steel pivot) for a new build, and an LS-56 (with the short throw mod and a phreakmods shaft) for an 8bitdo mod, and I'm putting an LS-40 in my RAP N and an OTTO V5 in my vpin table if I can fit the GRS 4-to-8 way switchable gate on it. I'm going to get to a korean lever once I can actually pick one and find a home for it.

@@TheElectricUnderground After being objective, wouldnt having a square gate be optimal for accuracy vs circle? (I have a square collar gl)

Hey there I 've been using my stick as described ever since I made the vid and have had great success with it, just got a crimzon clover original 1cc :-) I could see the merit of getting a smaller acuator as well, gives you a bit more wiggle room for kbd and such I imagine. I 'll add to the parts list as well

Great question! So the collar is the physical gate that stops your stick from over throwing. I am personally a fan of the tall collar for better stability, but the issue people run into is that you need to widen the hole of your arcade stick to mount it. The lower collar is a little less stable (has more throw) but can be mounted without widening the hole

yeah no need to get the 9mm brass if the stock is also 9mm, I use the brass one but it's not necessary if you want to stick with the 9mms stock

@@TheElectricUnderground thanks a lot for all this info, i have been trying this all day and i love it 🙏

So it s hard to say because I got a myo long time ago that was awesome, but then I ve bought replacements that were meh, so hopefully you got a good build!

Oh yes check out my how to play arcade stick vid! You do different hand movements depending on the side :-)

So I am still using the default fanta switches, but I am going to order the omrom's soon and try them out, as people have been recommending them!

Absolutely! I definitely recommend the hori cases, they are fantastic and solid products with great internals. If you want to install a korean lever later, you will need to cut or file the hole bigger, but other than that they are extremely easy to mod and work with.

Oh awesome!! I 'll get out the measuring tape and measure the hole here soon! Also it is plug and play if you get the wiring harness, here s a link from focus attack: focusattack.com/187-to-5-pin-conversion-harness/

Hopefully you found the answer sometime in the last three years but it should be 35mm afaik

Oh yeah no problem! I recommend the taeyoung because it fits with the golden lever parts the best (the golden lever is a fanta stick, not a crown) and I personally like the feel of the stick a lot more than crown, and I have soo many crown levers ha. The modifications I recommend will reduce down the throw and give the lever a really nice feel.

Yep that s what I use :-)

@@TheElectricUnderground One more question! On the website page under the shaft desciption you recommended, it says "FYI : Default K-lever (Crown, Myungshin, Taeyong) using 9mm shaft." so why get the shaft if it's the same one but different color that comes stock with the fanta?

I'm still using this exact lever to this day (i think it's been about 2 years now). I must confess that I'm out of touch with the supply of the parts that I use in the vid. I'd check to see what that mounting plate looks like and see if you can find a match on focusattack or arcade paradis, as the golden lever parts are often based on other lever parts.

Hi, I was wondering if you were ever able to find the Switch Mounting Plate since I can't get a hold of one either...

@@miwa_ArcadeGaming I didn't dig much further. I oped to try a Crown 309-MJ-NewHelpMe and it worked well for my needs.

@@tephradem OK, thank you for your reply

Glad to hear it!!!

@@TheElectricUnderground no wonder Koreans owned tekken for so long

I can confirm that it does not :-) if that s a concern I would actually say go with a slightly smaller actuator rather than a heavier gromet :-) I still use the lightest grommet and I doubt it will ever increase the resistance on it. Try getting a size smaller actuator to go with the lighter grommet just in case :-)

@@TheElectricUnderground Thank you for your reply. I have some questions related to this video. You said that you should aim for a lever with a smaller throw, but you recommended the Taeyoung Fanta as the main body, which is known for having a long throw. Why didn't you recommend the 309MJ as the main body, which is known for having a small throw for a Korean lever? Can you clarify about that? Also, how would a Crown 309MJ with a DX Bobbin (the DX Bobbin reduces wobble and increases the tension slightly) and 25a grommet compare to your customized lever? How does the throw and corners compare between the two? I hear that corners are more difficult to activate on Korean levers compared to Japanese levers, so I want to hear your thoughts about the corners on the 309mj and your own customized lever. I like the unique feeling that the grommet provides, I just want it at a lighter tension. I want my lever to meet your criteria as much as possible, as those are the same criteria that I look for in a lever. I would be really grateful if you answered my questions.

This stick plus Brooks retro board!!

It shouldn't be! But yes you will like it, and if you want to make adjustments you can always tweak the part sizes a bit. I've been using constantly ever since making this vid and still love it!

@@TheElectricUnderground well thanks for the research. Can't wait to try it for tekken. I've been on heaviest tension M. Fanta for a couple yrs as my 1st arcade stick. Might feel weird to go to green tension, but I'm excited to see if electrics will be more reliable on this build.

@@TheElectricUnderground Hey I got the parts and installed everything. Feels solid, but I do notice I have pretty much the same spacing of hitting switch long before gate like I did on my m fanta. Also, put in a 15mm golden actuator. My electrics still suck. Think I'll try higher tension, as I've been on the highest for a couple yrs. This green one just feels so squishy.

@@TheElectricUnderground Hey dude, last time I'll bug you. I swapped out for highest tension grommet...just a preference thing for me. Having said that, this is a great build for me now. Wanted to say 'thanks' for doing all that research. I'm glad I could take your advice and get a much better setup than what I had previously.

Oh I'm curious, I haven't heard about this before. Looking into it now! (just checked it), this looks very interesting! I'll have to try it out at some point and do a review. I do love siemitsu.

Damn near built for Shmups imo. It works with fighting games well enough but I find it cumbersome over a Otto V5. K Levers have way more variably to consider to be good for shmups (Brand, short or high collar, actuator size, bobbin stiffness, grommet tension, shaft and microswitches all make a massive difference in sensitivity, deadzones and throw distance). Mark here probably a good chunk of change messing around to get the right feel and that's not viable for many people because of how expensive it can be.

Yeah two things, while I still use the 16mm actuator for basically everything, you might want to include a 15mm actuator as well if you want a little more wiggle room for Tekken backdashes. Also if you don t want to solder your microswitch wires (I forgot most people don t do this), you might want to throw in a quick connector from focus attack. Other than that I have been using this build for hundreds of hours now and I still think it s perfect :-) also I recently got a Guwange 1cc live on this bad boy! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/edudYM9mtq6ooZs.html

@@TheElectricUnderground what is the purpose of this quick connector? and what exactly is the product name on FA? Thanks

@@TheElectricUnderground are you talking about the .187 to 5pin converson harness? if so yes I do have that already in my cart.

@@tyren818 Yes that is what I was referring to :-D

I don't think I have tried the version 6 sadly

If I'm not mistaken it's similar to the CDP lever, but improved. The only problem of the V6 is that it compresses the grommets a lot making them stiffer than normal, so I think it should be played with the lightest grommet possible and I'm not sure if it would be light enough to meet your principles

Srsly though - this Video was amazing. Like most Stick Players, i love tinkering, so this is right up my alley.

I've recently been buying up a ton of keyboard switches, and I'm eager to try them out in arcade sticks.

@@notesscrotes4360 I can shorten you'r quest. Search for buttons with less than roughly 1.5mm pre travel. Any normal cherry type switch has a longer pre travel and throw than people are used to from sanwa or seimitsu, so you can dump these immediately if you are planning to hit or release 2 buttons at the same time. I am using Kailh speed gold and bronze, wich have 1.4 and 1.1 mm pre travel, but i have not found a switch with a shortened throw yet.

I have put together my build based off the golden lever, but I haven't tried the Magentico yet! it sounds really interesting though!

@@TheElectricUnderground Check it out on KZfaq. Arcade Xpress has a good demo of it and they say it has a really short throw and is very precise. Industrias Lorenzo took over the production of Happ style levers that you would traditionally see in MVS cabinets and so forth. When they got transferred over to Suzo in China they lost quality, but Industrias Lorenzo in Spain produces them as well but does not sacrifice the quality.

@@TheElectricUnderground Thanks for replying btw.

Thanks for checking the vid out. So when it comes to shmups there is no denying the quality of the siemitsu sticks, most super players and world record holders play on them, so they definitely have a history of success ha. I personally love this stick build and will likely continue to play on it forever, but it s hard to say whether or not it s better then a j stick setup.

@@TheElectricUnderground I think youtube deleted my response for some reason. My basic rant was that what matters is what works best for you. Clearly your performance with that set up is awesome. Its interesting to see another perspective.

Yeah I prefer the high collar version, has a more stable feel I think

The ls 32 is very good and fits these same principals :-)

Thinking of going with an LS-40, I mostly play airdasher fighting games.

@@a.n2276 i have sanwa jlf for Beat Em ups, Fighting Games and the whole Non Shmup Mame World! Its a great allrounder.

@@bonggzilla I have a Hayabusa currently, been eyeing the LS-40 because it has a short engage and throw distance.

I replaced the stock Hayabusa in my RAP V with an LS-40 and I am very happy with it, but that's all experience I have. The tension grommets in the Korean stick sounds really interesting to me, though

Dang, that sounds jank

Absolutely!

​@@TheElectricUnderground I read that the stock shaft for the Fanta Taeyoung was 9mm, but unfortunately when it arrived in the post it didn't come with a shaft. The silver ones have been out of stock at goldenlever for a while now. Is there anywhere else I might be able to source one? I need a silver one, not gold.

@@TheElectricUnderground is this build for fighting games?

Oh hell yeah, still using this build and still loving it (easily up to 100 hours now) so let me know if you have any questions or troubles putting it together!

@@TheElectricUnderground appreciate it bro! will definitely have questions haha

@@TheElectricUnderground hey man just out everything together and hear a creaking noise whenever I do a diagonal

@@JusJusJusJus did you fix it? also did you tighten the screws too much? i just ordered all the parts too... also did you lube the core?

@@Scragg- yea I just put some thermal grease on all the touching parts and it’s much quieter and yes I did but I think it’s unnecessary

Nope just my own thoughts ha, do we have similair thoughts it sounds like

This guy isn't even smart enough to drill a proper hole 💀 you're expecting too much here

Hell yeah!!! I still rock this build like no tomorrow, nothing has come close for me. So I m probably around 2k hours of playtime on it now :-)

@@TheElectricUnderground what switches did you use? Mine is using gersung 16 (that’s what my taeyoung Fanta came with)

@@TheElectricUnderground I did put in another order from ASI for a large size bat top and one level up on tension for the silicon grommet, the golden shaft (I have the silver one but I want bling) and the actual golden lever mounting plate (again bling) I have big hands and I figure that increasing the bat top size might make the tension feel lighter so I think that increasing the tension one variation up will help compensate for that

Ha yeah

Oh I think I 've heard of this before! Sounds super interesting, would love to try one out

Dont forget to add Cherry D44x switches as replacement, most legit JLFs with CD44s modded are known to be high tier before.

I'm rocking my JLF w the otto V1 mod for shumps exclusively and loving it.

Can t have my arcade stick looking too pretty ha, it s gotta look mean

Still use this build to great results. Your gonna have to put me in jail then

What, specifically, are your issues with this?

@Steve-Fiction He had none, he was just yapping.

If you are going to criticize without giving any counter points you must be a poor excuse of a stick builder... should he have used legos like you usually do? GTFO...