You are so welcome! x

Yay! That makes me really happy. Not sure if you can post photos in the comments section but i would love to see your hat.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment. :)

Thanks so much Michelle. That is really lovely to hear. :)

Oh good. I hope you like it. :)

I am so glad you found it helpful. Thanks so much for taking the time to leave such a lovely comment. :)

You are very welcome! So glad you found it helpful. :)

Thank you so much! 😊

Glad it was helpful!

Pleasure! They are great for cold weather so I think you will love them. :)

I'm so glad! :)

I'm so glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. :)

Oh - that sounds lovely. I love a thoughtful scrappy project. :)

Thank you Rita. I am so glad you found the video helpful and it gave you confidence. :)

You are welcome! I am glad you think it will be helpful. Good luck. It is a great hat pattern. :)

Thanks for your lovely comment. I am so glad it was helpful! :)

Thanks so much. Nice to get two hats from one. :)

Oh thank you so much :)

Thanks so much Susan: a colorwork beanie is a great introduction to fair isle knitting so if you haven’t done that before, I do recommend it. Having said that, a Musselburgh is such a great gift knit. Hope you will post pics on Instagram so I can see it X

You're welcome!

Thanks so much Laura. :)

Thanks so much Rosemary. If you like stockinette in the round and have a need for portable knitting, it is a fantastic project. Let me know if you make one. :)

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for taking the time to comment. :)

Thanks so much. :)

You are very welcome. I found all the numbers a bit overwhelming as well. I am glad to have been able to help as it really is a lovely hat pattern. :)

Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment. I am so glad you found the video helpful and are enjoying your Musselburgh knitting. :)

Thanks so much. :)

You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful! :)

Thanks so much Shantini. I am so glad you are enjoying them. It is nice to be able to reach people who dont live close by. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. :)

What size needle?

@@leeannconners I used a 3.25mm needle for the fingering weight and light fingering weight and 3.5mm needle for the sport weight hats.

Thanks so much Lois. I'm glad it was helpful. :)

I'm so glad you found it helpful. Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment. :)

Thank you so much for your lovely comments. I hope you enjoy knitting this hat. :)

You are so welcome! I agree, it is a great project for magic loop. You might find the beginning a bit fiddly if you haven’t done it before. Probably the easiest way to actually learn magic loop for the first time is on a bottom up hat and you start magic looping when you get too few stitches on the needles for a fixed circular. Let me know if you have any struggles and I will do a magic loop video where you start a project with magic loop. Hope you enjoy the pattern. Tosh merino light is a great choice. X

@@mostlyknitting Thank you for the feedback concerning Magic Loop. I will start it off on DPNs and switch to the magic loop. I'm comfortable with DPNs but have always felt I should give Magic Loop a go. I have a Craftsy Class on Magic Loop so more than past time I used it! I went through my stash and found a skein of Ancient Arts Socknado yarn in the colourway A Rolling Stone. I'm going to use it for what I suspect will be the first of many Musselburgh hats. Your video was inspiring! 🥰

Thank you so much Nicole! :)

I am so glad you found the video helpful. I hope you will knit on with the pattern and see if, once you have done your increases, you get to a good circumference. If not, you can always rip back a few rows and add a couple more increases if you need. :)

Wow - that is a great workaround to only use decreases. I never thought about that. I have a video on increases as well - M1R and M1L - if you havent learned those already. Thank you for the lovely comments. :)

@@mostlyknitting I will have to look up that tutorial when I start my next one.

Love that idea. Very clever. I hate fiddly cast ons.

Thank you so much. 😊

You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful. :)

You are so welcome!

Hope you enjoy the knit. :)

Thanks so much for your lovely comment. Hope you make one. They are great, wearable hats. :)

Thanks so much. I hope the video will help you are able to make the changes you need for them to come out a bit smaller. :)

Thanks so much Maureen. :)

I am so glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I hope this pattern works out for both of you as i think it is a really clever design. Happy knitting. :)

I’m so glad you found it helpful. :)

Glad it was helpful! :)

Glad it was helpful! :)

Thanks so much Janis. I would change colour after 11" from the very tip which is about half way for the length i like the hats. I hope that helps. Thanks so much for taking the time to leave a comment. :)

I'm so glad! Thanks for taking the time to comment. :)

Ha! I am so used to using inches as most of the patterns I knit early on were from the US. Sorry about that. ;)

It is such a great cast on. 😀

I hope you do and the video gives the confidence to get started. Feel free to ask questions. Happy to help. :)

@@mostlyknitting thank you! And that was very kind of you and I just may have to bother you while knitting it!!

@@paulamcmellon6171 - All good. It is no bother. :)

I hope you made the hat! Do you love it? Don’t be afraid. It’s only knitting. Nobody gets hurt ❤️

@@missmayflower I did make one and I loved the princess and the hat!!

Thanks so much for your lovely comment and for subscribing. :)

@@mostlyknittingyou’re welcome.

Thank you so much for all the very valuable information. I just found you, subscribed and liked! I have been a little nervous to start because of the pinhole cast on! Love this!❤

Thanks so much Linda. :)

Hi Ali. Thanks for your lovely comments. All my fingering weight hats were 136 sts, including the one for my son. But his head is the same size as mine. The yak yarn is an interesting one. I would think to go to 136 sts but maybe when you are at say 120sts, I would do a bit of a check on the gauge as best you can with the fabric you have. I’m sorry I can’t be more helpful. Having not used the yarn and the fibers being quite different, I couldn’t be sure how it will behave. Whatever size you go with, once you are a couple of inches into knitting straight. I would switch back to magic loop for one round and just check the diameter before you have gone too far. I hope that helps. :)

Thanks so much Lynda. I am so glad you persevered. I think M1L the whole way is totally fine. They will all be the same and consistent which is the most important thing. I always rush through the increases as i just want to get to the plain sailing. :)

I just fully wet block the project by sumberging it in water, leaving the needles hanging out of the tub but the project on the cables (magic looping). Then i roll it in a towel, avoiding the needles, to get rid of most of the water. Then lay it flat to dry and leave it for a day. I plan to do a video of blocking mid-way through a project shortly. :)

What size are you planning on making? These are the sizes - baby [toddler, child-adult small, adult medium] (adult large, adult x-large). At the moment with 80sts at that gauge, that is right number of stitches for the baby size. If you want to make say the adult medium which is the last number in the square brackets, you would need to have 120 sts on the needles (30 in each section). I hope that helps. Feel free to message again if that isnt clear. :)

@@mostlyknitting thanks for the reply! I ended up figuring it out and using the customization spreadsheet! It is so helpful! I just had to plug in my measurements and it popped out a “custom” pattern! It even gave me the option to weigh my yarn after the increases to maximize skein usage!

I used a 3.25mm for the fingering weight hats. I am so glad the information was helpful. :)

Thanks so much Yvonne. I used a 3.25mm needle for fingering weight and 3.5mm needle for sport. There is a link to the pattern on ravelry i the Description and you can purchase it there. :)

I love your username. I would just go down a needle size or two. Do remember that the hat will be double thick and the brim will be 4 layers. My gauge is 28sts over 4” so maybe whatever needle size would give you around that gauge. Hope that helps. :)

Thank you very much! I will try that. I am using James C Brett dk stone washed and it is coming out very nicely! I chose that username years ago. I taught high school math for 33 years and I figured I would never forget that one! You shared that you are a math teacher also. That is nice to know! The challenge of learning to knit is just like learning mathematics. There is an infinite amount of knowledge and skills for me to learn. When I retired, I stopped using that part of my brain. Your help is greatly appreciated! @@mostlyknitting

Thanks so much Barbara. Glad it was helpful! :)

Hi Sharon, Sorry iforgot to mention this in the video - I use a 3.25mm needle for the fingering and light fingering hats and 3.5mm needle for the sport weight hats. I knit at a fairly standard tension. Not especially tight or loose. I have added this information now in the description box. Thanks for asking the question. :)

Hi Bonnie. Never too late to knit something. If you can knit socks you can definitely knit a Musselburgh. What you have said about when to start the next colour is correct. You might want to block it on the needles when you get to about 9-10", especially if the yarn is superwash as it may grow some. :)

I am so pleased to hear you are enjoying your knitting so much. Thank you for your kind words. The pattern is written for multiple sizes and gauges. I just found that if i knit fingering weight on 3.25mm needles, 136 was the stitch count for me that gave me a good fit for my average sized head of 22". But it does depend on your gauge. Hope that helps. :)

I did not expect such a quick response! My head measures 21 inches so I will check my gauge with fingering weight yarn and 3.25 mm needles and adjust if needed from there! I can't wait to get started. I don't know if I will make as many hats as you have, but I can see why it is addictive. :)

Thanks so much for the lovely comments. It's funny. Here in Australia, we use the metric system and I use it all the time as I teach Math and I use it for lengths around the house or distances like km etc. But for body measurements, I still use inches. Probably because most patterns I use are from the US and they still use imperial. :)

Thank you for your prompt reply. Forgot to mention, I'm also an 'aussie kid' from the picturesque Adelaide Hills. Nice to meet you!

You too! x

You're welcome. I think you can use any yarn, superwash or not. The pattern works really well for either. :)

HI Julie, I would change colours when you are half way through the length which is 17.5" so when it measures 8.75" from the tip cast on to the cable. I hope that helps. :)

It absolutely does thank you so much

Hi again Have one last question. The pattern says to SSK but the abbreviation they have in the pattern is slip knitwise slip knitwise insert left needle into the 2 slipped stitches from L to T and knit together. Is this way to mirror the increases at the beginning? This way of doing SSK is unfamiliar to me. If I slip 2 sts knitwise I usually put them back on the left needle then knit them together. Just unsure which method to use. Another method is slip knitwise then slip purlwise then knit together. Thank you

Hi Claudia. I used Malabrigo Sock which is a light fingering.

@@mostlyknittingthank you, I thought since it was towards the end of the video it might be a sport or dk.

Thank you so much. I definitely think that is plenty for a Musselburgh hat. I would just weigh your skein at the start and make a note of how much yarn your increases take. Then leave at least that amount and maybe an extra gram for safety for the decreases. :)

@@mostlyknitting Thank you so much for your reply. The pattern specifies a bit more for an adult size, but now I feel comfortable getting started. You have a lovely channel and I’ve subscribed. Take care. Lisa 💕

@@SoulfulSpinning Just found your reply now. Thank you so much for subscribing. I am so glad i found yours also and have subscribed. x

Thank you so much. For me, about 2-3" negative ease. So my hat circumference is about 19.5" for a head circumference of 22". Hope that helps. :)

@@mostlyknitting thank you!!

Thanks so much. I used a 3.25mm for fingering and light fingering and a 3.5 mm for sport.

@@mostlyknittingThanks❤

⁠@@mostlyknitting hello, I need your help about Musselburgh. There are 3 pdf files in my library are these little different or all files are the same? I want to make musselburgh in size adult medium I have Alpaca yarn more than 600 meters and want to knit in needle size 3.00 , 3.25 or 3.50mm. Is Alpaca yarn is perfect for this project or I have to knit in sock yarn? Hope you will reply me as soon as possible. Here is cold weather start in copper Denmark. Have a nice evening Happy knitting

My final stitch count is 136 sts so i am at 128, then three more rows. then last increase to 136. And that is my stitch count for the long tube. :)

@@mostlyknitting Thank you

Hi Jan Most superwash wool yarns should be able to be machine washed but machine dried is a tricky one. I have never put my knits in the dryer. I made socks for my dad and even though they were super wash, when they went in the dryer, they shrunk. Maybe others can comments on this? Anyone found yarn that was ok in the dryer?

Hi Tash, I love this video with all the variations of the mussellbough hat. I have gone back and watched sections of it several times. I really enjoyed making one. I got impatient after blocking it and put it in the dryer for several minutes causing it to shrink. So my grandson (rather than my adult son) got a new hat : ). I made it to be like a beanie without any slouch (but not super tight) and am making another one. My question is how long do I make the hat for a beanie? Using your measurements 8" plus 6" plus 8" = 22", I figured without turning it up it should be 8" plus 8" = 16" (which is what I blocked my first one to, but it seemed a bit short (even before it shrunk). I am in awe with all your projects and would love to see a short video of you actually knitting : ). Thank you in advance for your help! Jan P.S. I love math too.

Thanks so much Amanda. Fingering weight sock yarn is a great choice. The 25% nylon wont affect the end result. :)

Thanks so much. I use a 3.25mm needle and a 40 cm cable and an 80cm when I magic loop at the start and end. Hope that helps. :)

@@mostlyknitting thank you! I am about to try to cast on!☝🏻️

I switched to a 40cm (16") circular from the time i finished the increases until i decreased to about 80sts. I find that much quicker and easier than magic loop. :)

Tq

Yes, that's correct. I am including the crown in those measurements. Hope you are enjoying your hats. :)

@@mostlyknitting thank you so much for responding 😊. I love making these hats!

Hi Gail. I can really recommend Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light or Skein Sisters Fabulous Sock. Both of those yarns are very soft and great for the Musselburgh and you can get them both from Skein Sisters online. :)

@@mostlyknitting thank you so much for the information I’ll order some and give it a go. Could you talk one day about patterns that are good to follow for first time sweater 😊 It’s hard to jump in and pick the best pattern to navigate wool and design 🤦‍♀️

Hi Gail. I can definitely do that. :)

Hi Lydia. I am guessing you are doing magic loop. You have two markers on the needles at the centre of each half of the work. You have to imagine you have a marker at the start of round and another marker at the half way point. The issue with magic loop is that you can't actually put a marker at these places or it would just fall off. But you need to mentally consider there is a marker there when it comes to doing the increases. I hope that helps. Let me know if not and i will try and explain another way.

@@mostlyknitting AHHH thank you so much!! I re read the pattern. I knew it had to be there lol! I am on my way, hoping I love it as much as you!! You are a natural teacher! I used your cast on video -PERFECT!

@@lydiasobocinski9651 Thanks so much. I am really glad it helped. :)

Hi there. If people are talking about weights of yarn, there was some historic terminology that can make things a bit confusing. 2ply = Lace weight 3ply = Light Fingering 4ply = Fingering (or sock weight) 5ply = Sport 8ply = DK (Double Knitting) 10ply = Worsted 12ply = Aran 14ply = Bulky There are rough statements past 8ply - things get a bit hazy there with terms like Light Worsted which could be either an 8ply or a 10ply depending on who you are talking to. But up to 8ply, this is the general equivalent. This is not to be confused with the number of plies that make up the construction of the yarn. It is historical terminology where the weight of the yarn was made by adding extra plies to make a heavier weight of yarn. There are plenty of single ply fingering weight yarns but they have been spun to a weight of a 4ply fingering weight yarn. They still may be described as "4ply" because of the weight, not the actual number of plies. Most "4ply" yarns tend to have approximately 400 yards in 100g - give or take, depending on whether they have been woollen or worsted spun. I know that was a long answer for a pretty short question but thought it might help to give a bit more info and context.

Hi Barbara. Sorry i am replying so late. I definitely knit the hats a bit shorter than intended as with the superwash yarn i have been using, it has tended to grow about an inch. I hope that helps. :)

I used a 3.25mm needle for the fingering weight and a 3.5mm needle for the sport. :)

Definitely fingering weight and 3.25mm needles. :)

3.25mm for fingering weight. :)

@@mostlyknitting thank you so much 😊 if I understand the same amount of stitches is good for you and your husband?

That is a really good point. I think it is actually quite hard to tell early on in the knitting for all those reasons you mentioned. I think i ended up working my gauge by initially using yarn that I had knit before in a garment on the same size needles - so i had actually had a "megaswatch" that had been blocked to work off. Some fingering weight yarns are lighter but for the standard ones I knit with, 136sts seems to be the right final stitch count. I would go to 144 if the recipient had a slightly larger head and 128 for a slightly smaller head or for a tween. I think that is one of the reasons I made this video - just going off gauge to work out what stitch count to knit to can be misleading. I hope you found the video helpful. :)

Thanks for your speedy reply. Yes, I found your video more helpful than any other, and than the pattern, which I guess I've been pretty disappointed in, after all the positive hype and number of projects. So little actual pattern and the multi-gauge info seems not that helpful as I've had to figure out all of my own numbers so far anyway... Also thought the video and course should have been included with pattern, rather than as an extra hefty fee, considering how little actual pattern there is. But, anyway -- sorry -- complaining reflects my frustration. Your numbers look good to me. I apparently have a weird head, in-between numbers at 23" circumference and off the chart for length at 9.5". I was going with 144 sts before your response and until my gauge changed. Started over now with different yarn and 144 sts and then going down a needle size if gauge changes when I switch to circular. It'll fit somebody and be good practice. Your hats are lovely and your video was interesting, clear and helpful. I appreciate your speedy reply and more help a LOT. Note: I've been thinking about trying a different approach next time or sometime -- start with provisional cast on and total no. of stitches, work length desired and do decreases, then go back and do decreases to match on first crown. I prefer the appearance and the knitting experience of decreases as well as the idea of matching crowns. Not to mention avoiding fiddly cast on etc. I think it might work.... Cheers!

Sorry just replying now. YT is great for notifying me of comments but doesnt notify me of someone replying to my reply. (Probably something they need to rectify). I have heard of people doing a provisional cast on and then only having decreases in both directions. It is a great idea if you dont want to do the increases and want it to look completely the same in both directions. It does still mean you need to know the correct final number right from the beginning. I think with hats I have become a bit fatalistic - like you said - it will fit someone. And i will learn from the process. I hope you have come to a good resolution. I hear and understand your frustration. x

Hi there. I cant remember which exact file I used as it is so long ago since i knit my first one. Looking it up now, the one i used is 20 pages long but the actual instructions dont start until page 11 where you are instructed to cast on 8 sts using a disappearing loop method. Hope that helps. :)

@@mostlyknitting thank you 🙏 for help. You are genius 🥰

The Musselburgh hat is just the name of this pattern as written by Ysolda Teague. It is a fairly straight forward hat pattern that is double thick. It has a slightly tricky cast on but I have done a tutorial for that if that helps. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mbllnKyZxtLNl40.htmlsi=sQH8umGRhsSEPEd6

That is possible. I find one skein to be just enough with a bit leftover but if you like a longer brim or having them slouchy, it may not be quite enough.

That's a good question. I have always weighed my yarn at the start and then made sure i left enough for the same amount of even rows and decreases. When i start the decreases on my current one, i will weigh the yarn at the start and finish and update the notes on this YT video. Thanks for asking the question. :)

Thanks, look forward to it as I will get to my decreases soon. In the meantime I’ll work on the other musselburgh I have on the needles too!

@@kathleenmccrory7166 - I had a look at my notes for my previous Musselburghs. I noted that the increases used between 9 and 10 grams and the decreases involve the same number of rows and stitches so that would be my best guide for now - to leave 11 grams to be safe. But I will specifically weigh the decreases on the Musselburgh i am on now and report back when done. :)

Thank you so much. Sounds like a great plan. In my research I saw most people comment using around 10-12. I’ll shoot for that. Appreciate your help.

@@kathleenmccrory7166 - I just finished my most recent Musselburgh and I used 10.5 grams for the decreases so i would leave 12 grams if you are using a fingering weight yarn to be safe. :)

Hi Kathy. I like the 16" needle. I have some with longish tips and they are my favorites to knit hats with. They are Birch brand here in Australia. I find the Addi and Chiagoo ones have tips that are a bit short for me.

Just moments ago, I realized my stitch gauge was supposed to be 7 and I thought it was 8 at the start, so the hat would have been too big. I had to rip all 6” out and start again. The US 2.5 needle is so small, so I’ve decided to use a US 3 and start again. I really like your hats so hopefully I will be able to finish it faster with the larger needle. It’s a birthday gift for my son whose birthday is April 6. I will have to do nothing but knit to make it in time to mail it off to him! Thanks for your help. I love your podcasts!

I have only used fingering and sport because even with the sport, i felt 4 layers around my head was quite bulky and i didnt think i would like that in DK. The Oslo hat is a good DK hat pattern that gives a similar look but with only 3 layers. So for that gauge, i make the Oslo. Either with DK or fingering and mohair. Yes, the Musselburgh in fingering weight is quite an investment in time.

HI there. I use a 3.25mm needle for the fingering weight. But if you are finding them a bit loose, you could try going down a needle size. :)

@@mostlyknitting love your podcast and always look forward to it!

Thank you so much. X

I am not sure what this size is called in the pattern. I just know I got my stitch count to 136 sts on. 3.25mm needle and I had 16” straight between the increases and decreases. Hope that helps. :)

@@mostlyknitting Okay, thanks for responding!

My preferred total length from tip to tip is 22". 3" on each end is the increases and decreases and 16" in the middle. So when I am at 3" + about 14" (so 17") from the tip (cast on), I block the hat on the needles and see how much it grows. When it is at 19", I start the decreases. Here is a link to me blocking it on the needles to check for growth. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y8yeiLmr26nKenk.htmlsi=fSJkWgi2xH8EsM28

Hi there I would suggest laying the hat flat and measuring over the part of the fabric that is near the cable and not the needles so the needles arent distorting the work. Lay your ruler parallel to the cable and about an inch away from the cable. Then count the number of stitches that it takes to make up an inch. If you count 5 V's to make up an inch, that is your stitch gauge. If possible, measure over 2 inches and then divide the number of Vs by 2 to get a more accurate gauge. I hope that helps.

@@mostlyknitting yes this helps ! For me I was counting the number of stitches vertically not horizontally so I was counting the stitches (rows) . Now if I understand correctly you measure the stitches horizontally! Thanks! I just unraveled the whole hat which was pretty much finished but way too big … 160 stitches ( I had measured 9 rows/stitches) and followed the gauge for 9 stitches which made 160 stitches altogether… I am using light fingering and this was too big lol

@@helenedumoulin9092 Yes you are correct - you want to be measuring horizontally, not vertically. I'm sorry to hear you had to rip out the whole hat. For fingering weight yarn on 3.25mm needles, i get to a 136st count. Even for a light fingering, you probably wouldnt want more than 144sts. I hope that helps.

@@mostlyknitting yes ! Thanks again for your help ! I am already knitting past the crown … and it is coming along perfect thanks to your help !

Hi Becca. There are 4 markers for the hat as there are 4 sections. There is one marker for the beginning of round and three more markers spread out evenly. You will increase in a round and then knit a round even and repeat that 2 row pattern for a while. I hope that helps.

I love it for playground duty in the winter months here in Sydney and also when travelling. I am in Osaka right now with top temps of 5 degrees Celsius (41F) and am wearing one every day. :)

Hi Marie. I used a 3.25mm needle. If you knit loosely, you might want to go to a 3mm. Hope that helps. Thanks

Thank you so much. I am very late to the party but it is probably the most enjoyable knit that I've done since I started knitting socks. Thank you again. Take care