I actually never researched the previous collections of heliot emil up to this day and I'm completely shocked to see the amount of "references" they stole from other designers. I first discovered the brand when they introduced the Liquid Metal fabric, which was interesting, however I thought anything else that they did was a 100% Matthew Williams ripoff. Now watching this video confirmed that it was not only limited to Williams at all. I'm a senior year fashion design student and in my first year of school they taught us about functionality. The garments have to have utilities that will satisfy a need of the person. But many people think that by just putting meaningless zippers and clips make their designs "functional". I know you dislike Diesel, but , in my eyes Glenn Martens's Diesel has perfect examples of functional designs. Check their Pocketing details in their bags and jackets. That's what I call functional design. Love your videos and opinions. Keep doing this, thank you!!

Finally someone said it

Fashionlover 4 just carved Heliot Emil's tombstone 🪦💀

I feel like Heliot Emil tries to stay relevant by hopping on micro-trends (like metallic clothing) while copying larger brands to create the illusion that they are being innovative. While it is true that the best artists steal from multiple areas of life then shape their work to their vision, I don't think Heliot Emil actually has a clear vision.

I find myself rolling my eyes every time I come across Julius articles and interviews. Glad to know we're on the same page! Their marketing might be decent, but someone's gotta do their PR and tell the guy what to say, he's not coming across likeable, which makes us consumers question his and their 'why'.

Ive always had major passion for fashion but in the last few years ive learnt how much a passion i have for textile, garment quality and commercialism in fashion and how we invent alternatives. Im going to study fashion and textile technologies this year so thank you for helping me figure it out !

The liquid metal fabric is really the only thing of theirs that stood out to me

They feel like an actual AI bot came to live and started making collections based on algorithms.

I bought a dress from one of their archive sale because I really liked the design and was so disappointed with the quality. It felt like it was worse than Shein, and the fabric which was hanging out from the hem neither felt like a lining nor part of the design. I would never buy from them again.

Thank you for explaining to me why Heliot Emil never felt enough cool to buy a piece from them

Your channel is very helpful. I'm somewhat of a fashion newbie, And this really opens up my visuals about H.E. as a whole. Thanks. You deserve more credit.

respectfully I agree. I love it in theory like "yes, future clothing" but I think there are too many zippers and idk something about it isn't grabbing me but they're also pretty new so there is always room for improvment 😌

carabiners are soo underground techno man!

As someone who is trying to inch my way into gaining a better conception of the fashion industry and many of its brands, this is such a great video!! ill definitely have to check out more

Im halfway through your scathing video which well sorts the turmoil of muddled thoughts in my mind about this brand but could never decipher thank-you for the new found clarity.

Love the way you break it down, i personally feel these things but i could not articulate it myself !

It's been a while since something about Heliot Emil has been bugging me, but I've never put so much thought into it. Now you've put it into words. Thank you for that! Keep up the good work!

thanks for doing the deep dive and putting into words the feelings / reactions I was having about this brand. I kept thinking like, "hmm interesting..." but then forgetting about the brand entirely until they would pop up again on my feed with another attention-grabbing thing. The only thing I was really taking away into my memory and associating with Heliot Emil were the carabiners, which have been just attached to everything and got annoyingly played out real quick.

Absolutely agree. In france we say in an really snobbish and condescending way that brands like HE or Alyx are making « hetero fashion », which basically mean fashion for people who aren’t into fashion but want to look like they are. It’s not a brand about creativity, expressing art or pushing a vision, it’s about selling clothes for people who buy things with a « people will think i look cool wearing this » mentality. Which tbh it’s nothing wrong, some people just want to find an aesthetic that people like, wear it and not think about it ever again knowing they will probably look cool to most of their friends and take no risks. I just hate how it makes itself look like way more than it is, and how in people in the industry don’t really bother calling it out. Especially since their quality is apparently awful, it really reminds me of some of the stuff you find on edgy dropshipping websites. Like come on, even Philipp Plein has pushed some things and took some risks in the fashion world

I've always thought of Heliot Emil as a kind of "test." The clothing is decent to high quality and their presentation (shows, editorials) have grown in a positive way, they've become sophisticated and refined. That being said, despite the numerous cut and sew pieces they release or the different fabrics and textures they use; I don't think they've done anything to *deserve* being labeled anything beyond an "IG Brand" (a title that's becoming increasingly pejorative)

Great video ive always felt similarly about heliot emil but couldnt put into words what made me so hesitant about the brand

After watching this video, it reminds me somewhat of how Who Decides War began where they were just trying to get attention by copying others and trying to grab consumer attention without really having a plan. Luckily Heliot's branding is more attention grabbing, but as a consequence, where WDW evolved and changed their approach, Heliot hasnt. I havent done my own research, but I trust your perspective and this is my take away

a great video - i would like say that i kind of felt called out watching it , because while i am doing more research about fashion and am starting to dig deeper i think i still fall into the 2nd category of the 3 you mentioned - which i now see is probably why i have been atracted to heliot emil clothes *when i saw them on instagram lol*

Damn, that Video really changed my view about HE. I still really like their styling tho, but your I got all your points and it made me think about it and you’re absolutely right. It’s really more of a brand for those who like to be seen with just simple stuff, instead of real fashion fans.

Found you on Patreon and subscribed … keep up the great work 💯💯💯

Never thought of the brand just got into fashion a year ago proper first thought looks like helmet Lang lmao quite proud of myself that I got it before he said it 👍🏿

I am so thankful that your youtube account excists . You give me a completely new perspective on fashion

Been waiting for this

I like Heliot Emil, but I still agree with everything you touch on in this video. I also really enjoy ‘19 and ‘20, the best of their work in my opinion.

I like Heliot Emil 4x more after watching your video. I'm not joking. Thabk you for showing me their awesome style. I'm not being sarcastic or edgy. I appreciated your criticism while appreciating their style. I really like Heliot Emil

I also have sort of admired Heliot Emil from afar, but could never pull the trigger and buy into it. A brand that I think gives off a similar vibe, but with a more artistic lens I've been into is Sean Suen.

An interesting review! Thank you. ❤❤

thank you for this video and all videos !

Amazing video! Was thinking about applying for a design internship at the label, maybe I can bring some new craziness into the game 😁

Babe wake up fashion lover 4 uploaded

Oh Man…..the way you broke it down…..masterful!!! 🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾 Are you on Patreon? I want to show my support 💯💯💯

the way you explain this was so spot on

I am looking for a box-like bag and the carabiner box bag really caught my eye. Is it worth it you think? Does someone have it and knows about the quality?

Starting my day right with fashionlover4 video! Like what somebody said in other comments, HE relying too much on (micro)trend hopping for their clothes and lately with the fashion show gimmick (and empty words) for marketing. This season were so many fashion show gimmicks but HE one literally triggered my stomachache. It was just plain stupid and meaningless. But I hope they find their voice tho, they have potential to make something interesting but choose not to.

welp, Ill be referencing this some time in the future 🤣

Being from Belgium and seeing Eddy Wally pop up in one of your videos, was something I did NOT expect 😂

Heliot Emil’s designs are like the Mc Mansions of technical fashion lol

When watching your videos and your latest take on the three categories of people + their level of interest in fashion, I have been wondering what your take is on people who exclusively buy 2nd hand clothes but not necessarily 'vintage' clothes or know anything really about specific brands. I feel like there is a big 'underground' scene or just artsy (lol) people that have their really unique fashion style, based solely on second hand clothing (probably even very cheap) and are not interested in brands whatsoever, or if they wear brands it's not consciously anyway/ with a lot of knowledge of that brand (maybe just something they picked up in a thrift store and liked, regardless of the brand). When I see that kind of people, I am always in awe of their originality, and would even say they are the most 'interested in fasion' of all of them, since they don't buy something because it 'looks cool on instagram'. Because even if it is a more obscure brand that doesn't invest much in marketing, and has this really cool and interesting thinking behind their clothes, I feel you can still 'buy into' this brand to signal to an audience that you are 'fashionable', without giving it much though yourself. You see what I mean? Anyway love your videos!!

Now we are talking 🎉❤ A fashion content with a strong opinion. Don't be shy put some more! 🎉

Man I have no idea how I got here but it was certainly interesting. The deep fashion people really do be ripping on brands, and for good reason apparently.

Degremont show in 2021 opened the runway with a fireman on look 1, too !

they steal designs from young interns who are trying to get a job in the fashion industry. Don't send your portfolio to them. My school project was named Natural Uniform in wich i was blending nature and human creation in one and i sent it to them just to see them naming their collection Solitary Uniform right after :D it even had some of my key shots in there. Like you could see they analysed it, painted it black and white all over through their clothes and rebranded it to their liking.

Yeah agreed... once pulled a trigger on heliot emil piece becouse it was on huge sale ¨budjet alyx vest¨ and let me tell you i really hope their website photographers are getting top dollar becouse the piece in hand was horrible i tought i got fake one lol so bad quality, i ended up refunding... what was pain in the ass too becouse the customer service is the worst

Their lack of a design background might be showing now. Designers knows how to tie all elements of a brand together to propel the idea of what the brand stands for. They (H Emil) have a bunch of ideas thrown together. Instead focus on way less ideas and push those to the breaking point. That’s the space where you might find interesting things that haven’t been or rarely explored. Both Virgil and Rick are designers because of just the amount of things they can write and flesh out about their latest collection. There’s substance there.

Could you make a video on your thoughts on A-Cold-Wall please!

It’s like if rick and Mathew Williams had two Dutch babies

Where can I find that process of Virgil ?

I honestly wanna hear what you gotta say about Who Decides War

Its really just some products with an aesthetic to me, super contemporary, not pushing anything super far forward, very “ig brand”

What do you think of doing videos on small up and coming brands with unique innovations or ideas?

THANK YOU. First of all I had a good laugh. I studied fashion and I remember my boyfriend showed me this brand that was all over Instagram with paid advertisement. I remember thinking first that is a catfish brand sourcing weird semi fashion designs from AliExpress and selling it for much higher price😂. It reminds me of Manier de Voir, only that they at least sell for an affordable price. It is zero fashionable and just such a sell out brand with no identity. Techno meets alyx meet helmut and rick owens and loads of carabiners as u said.

Wow I didn't even know about this brand.... Now I know I didn't miss a thing

can someone tell me what brand/show those images are from at 11:42??

nah when i seen the chelsea boot i thought it was satire 😭😭😭😭 Matthew Williams definitely laughing

Very fair points, still like the clothes, objectively

kanye and heliot watched the hunger games and said.. lemme be katniss

Please cover ERD sometime. Underrated brand fr

as rock climber this is really hard to watch. but in all seriousness, very well made video and commentary with plausible references and connections. well done! cheers from Vienna 💐

wouldnt u consider doing a video about windowsen?

i'm with you it's a bit mid. it's a bit low impact and safe like you say, which is a bummer because it definitely has potential.

It's ok when Virgil steals whole designs and concepts from Walter, but when someone else does it!!!!!

love your take, they make some good pieces but just a few since most of them look the same

Did you attend the show?

thanks !

Could you do a video showing brands that have a great Instagram’s that reflect their “brand identity” and “universe”

10:43 I don't see why its immature to say that he does this for his own ego. Its self awarness to the highest degree. People think they can just seperate themselves from their egos desires when its rlly not that simple. People who do "selfless acts" wouldn't do it if it hurt their ego.

I like the brand there Pieces that stand out to me not all but some

damn you really snapped. the carabiners are soo obvious i cant bear to look at them

This video just convinced me that you are the anthony fantano of fashion, roasted their shit into oblivion

imma buy their excluse box bag now thxxx

i really do get your point, but have to admit, youre overhating in this one. At lest give them some credit for being accessible on this described as stage 2 fashion interest. they are getting people onto this wave and in my opinion do have distinctive features for example the karabiner. main negative point about them has to be them not once mentioning them referencing their influences or to some extend even them copying other designers. all in all they still are a new brand and in my opinion still have huge potential. i myself bought one of their jackets a few years ago second hand and still love it very much, it hangs next to my jpg faux leather jacket and a mm one. wouldnt trade it in for any of those two.

I love this brand I just started wearing it

I agree with some of your points , especially about Julius as a frontfigure. That being said, your point about the appropriation of fashion (like the Matthew Williams fit) lacks understanding of just how much brands, and fashion interested people influence each other. For instance; was Matthew Williams the first to wear a white dress shirt, black tie, and black pants? No. He too was consciously, or subconsciously strongly influenced by others. And would this influence be defined as appropriation or just inspiration? I myself, am neither a huge HE fan, but I think you underestimate the level of ‘appropriation’ in all of fashion culture. Even in the parts that you as an individual enjoy.

Thanks dude

i always thought that they wanted to be the ultimate opium brand by ripping off alyx clasps with their carabiners, rick with the brutalist techno thing and demna with the gimmicks

Their liquid matal fabrication is most likely stolen from Camilla Thulins Iridescent metallic dress. Which created quite a buzz at Valentino Spring 19 couture

Saw the brand for a while on IG from other influencers, and noticed some similarities and saw others make similar comments, but I didn't think too much of it since sampling and rehashing is bound to happen in fashion as it does in music-fast forward to your video there are too many distinct similarities it's quite evident now that it's beyond derivative. I just bought a pair of shorts on sale so we'll see on the quality front...!

really well presented point of view

I would say that Heliot Emil feels like a brand that doesn't fit into doing seasonal collections, but "drops" instead. If you mix all the looks they presented throughout their collections, you pretty much wouldn't be able to categorize their clothes with its respective collections if it weren't for the different runway stages. But trying to fit into a brand that does seasonal collections is for sure a better marketing move than just dropping clothes once in a while even if their clothes are not really collected by a unique meaning each season, it is just more and more of the same aesthetic.

I tried on a pair of the liquid metal trousers and the stitching and hems were abysmal... next collection name

No man😹😹😹. I have a distorted perspective on them now😭. Peak fashion comedy 💀

Post Archive Faction set their whole collection on fire I the early days.

i literally never hear anything about them ever and it kinda makes sense why

I bet the Juul brothers have never set foot in the ug techno scene ain’t no way lmao

why is it giving zara of “high fashion ”???

heliot emil always felt techy just for sake of being techy

damn, now that i realize it, it really does seem its for the tiktok and instagram audience, not for the art of fashion

i love how detail has become the new lazy trigger word for designers

Heliot Emil has also always felt kinda off to me because to me it feels a bit like an asos own brand take of darker avant garde, and this has honestly confirmed this to me.

yes yessss i have been saying this it's too much i wish it felt authentic

his collections are giving arena explore page, and the show titles sound like every art students channel title on arena

Beyond fair opinion tbh, I’ll probably still like what they do despite their lack of authenticity but I’ll fs check out whoever they copy & if I can support them better instead

always felt the same way

I really watch this longs ass insights into the fashion world when I wear a white tee and some shorts 24/7

I think before doing these type of videos try to do some further research on the designers inspirations. See what they follow on instagram etc, i agree with you on some parts but also disagree on others. With the attention economy these days brands have no choice anymore to do these mirco trends, gimicks whatever to survive its just how it is now. The fact heliot emil have done what they have done with out any financial investment from outside entities until now is pretty cool. Give them some time to develop because from what ive seen they're not stupid. I just think its not fair to degrade a young brand when theyre just starting their journey. Once they have the financial leverage to really go out and travel into the world and find inspiration that is unobtainable through the interenet is when they will really excel. Take Rick for example once he gained financial leverage he could really open up his insipiration and thats when imo his designs pushed boundaries. everyone says subjective stuff as long as the clothes speak to you then its fine. May not speak to anyone else but thats okay.