I've been saying everything you said here for the last 2 years, at sxs extreme and marine, we make our own in-house harness and it has breakers near the battery for EACH run. It also has actual fuse blocks to connect all of your graphs up to at the end of each marine grade wire Instead of finger tight posylock connectors that can rattle loose and we install a battery disconnect switch... Nothing like paying $400 for sub par equipment.

​@@sandman70131the wire needs to be fused at the battery according to the size of the wire you run, I ran #8 from the battery with 40 amp breaker to a terminal strip that is wired with ring terminals and the 5 amp fuse is off the terminal strip that is protecting the supply wire to the graphs.

Thats why I solder my connections and I run a separate power and ground for my graph then for anything else

I just tried soldering my mega live and 360 together with a main line going direct to the battery and the live won’t activate unless I disconnect the 360.🤷🏿‍♂️

​@crappienaterfishing1198 sounds like your main wire is to small to carry the base load. Or your battery isn't charged completely up

Bill Gibson 100%. I ran 8 gauge wire from my battery to a blue seas fuse box. Then 10gauge to all 3 of my units. I can fish all day and never get a low voltage alarm.

Did your graphs function better,

Lol no you can’t 50 ft of tinned copper duplex wire is more than 50 bucks. Plus battery switch, connectors, fuses, you’re looking at over a 100 bucks easy to wire up multiple graphs.

Yea....I priced out connectors, battery switch, fuses, fuse box, tinned copper wire.....easily over $200.....

You're going overboard on the shielding thing. There is no low-impedance earth ground on a boat. I know some larger saltwater boats have a grounding plate, but that's related to electrolysis prevention and not EMI. Running sufficient gauge with good termination fixes most issues. If you think you're picking up EMI, twist the power & Gnd wires together with 3 twists per foot or so. Most never have this particular issue.

how have i lost a connection to reality? i've had black and white graphs on a modified 77 jon boat and gradually built things up. you don't need great electronics to go fishing but i have fun with them does that make me love fishing less?

Mike McD Agreed. Looks like upsized power wiring upgrade with special electrical connectors. I’m confused too.

Well if it's "PATENTED" he can sell some one who knows nothing about electronics a $10 rig for $199 dollars. Screw/twist connectors are absolute trash. Mikey does great stuff but this kid is blowing smoke. The graph is absolutely reading 13V's by the way. It is not "tricked" by anything. Charging voltage for any battery is more than its voltage rating and a $3000 Lowrance graph that runs GPS, multiple different kinds of sonar and other various processes is certainly getting a voltage reading correct. Kid needs to go to school and learn about electronics before he starts ripping people off for a patented wiring harness at 2000% markup.

Its the yellow electrical tape that makes it “super stream line”.

He did get one part right. Electrical noise. That’s what’s causing units to be hazy and such. And “tricking” my butt. I guess that alt gauge in your truck is being “tricked” into thinking it’s got 13.5v going to it when it really don’t either 😂😂😂Which is why all units CLEARLY state RUN DIRECTLY TO BATTERY. He’s got $30 worth of 10awg and some “wire nuts” go get you some twisters from Lowe’s and you got the same thing

You're dead on Lance.

if you talk to any certified electrician they gonna tell you this product esp. the twist connector is subpar/inadequate 🤦‍♂️

U mean the power goes off or it stops scanning?

@@mikeybalzz It totally shuts off, and it will try to come back on, but as long as I'm running in rough water it will never open. Once I shut down it will open and start working again. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere in the unit?

@@johnkoons7163 definitely sounds like a connection problem. if your unit is hooked up to a board under your console i'd start by looking at that and just see if any connectors are lose. that sucks man i feel for you. electrical stuff is the worst to track down.

Jonny_Schools shhh 🤫🤫🤫 it’s pretty apparent he doesn’t know any better. It’s VERY apparent he doesn’t know about electricity which lets me know he knows NOTHING about the product he’s trying to sell. The same wiring he’s using can be bought on eBay right now for $50. Put you some real connections on it whether it be from a bus bar or uninsulated butt connectors then adhesive lined heat shrink and have a 1000x better setup than this garbage here all for less than 75 bucks

Soldering is the best connection hands down. Prove me wrong. I will wait

@@williamthigpen4480 This is from Code of Federal Regulations Title 33 CFR Sections 183.401 - 183.460 on marine wiring. Solder is permitted but cannot be the sole means of making the connection. This is because if the connection becomes very hot the solder might melt. Solder also tends to make the end of the wire into a solid wire as it wicks into the stranded conductors. The end of the wire then loses it flexibility and so is more prone to cracking induced by vibration.

@@williamthigpen4480 LMAO. You know nothing about electronics if you think soldering is the best for a marine setup. Go back to school. Like Johnmuirhead said above, soldering is brittle and can melt. Heat shrink crimped connectors are the bee's knees on a marine setup.

works with all of them yup

@@mikeybalzz I bought it!

I hate to burst your bubble, but some of what you say is wrong. A technically trained person (think electrical engineer) knows this. "Power" is measured in watts consumed by the device, meaning when the working load is applied. The voltage at the load is not fixed at 12V; the less adequate the wiring is, the more the voltage will drop at the load. You CAN get more power at a remote point by doing something to hold the voltage higher - meaning reduce voltage drop along the conductor. When you measure the no-load voltage at the bow of a boat you'll likely see no difference than at the battery unless you have expensive test instruments. This is because mere milliamps are required for the voltmeter's load on the circuit. As load increases, the voltage drop along the length of the conductor increases (V = Amps x Total Ohms for the conductor's resistance). Wire has resistance per foot of length for any given gauge, so the longer the wire, the greater that voltage drop. So, for example, the power available at the bow may be 5A x 12V = 60 Watts, or with a smaller gauge wire, you might get 5A x 11V = 55 Watts because the voltage drop in the conductor is higher. As the wire gauge decreases, the voltage drop increases, so the available power in watts at the end of the conductor DOES fall. Adding the outboard starter load drops the source voltage, so the voltage at a graph may fall so low it doesn't meet spec, and the unit shuts down. An adequate low resistance circuit to the load AND BACK to the battery will stop his problem unless he has an inadequate battery by spec or by failure. By the way, the units were not "isolated from the voltage supply" as they are still connected to the same battery. What happened is the units are further isolated from sources of electrical noise in the boat's equipment such as bilge pumps and livewell pumps. This happened by going back to the battery to implement a dedicated "subsystem" of power distribution to the graphs.

T Andrew people don’t realize all it is is 8 or 10awg in a fancy jacket with essentially wire nuts.

@@78freewheeler I am in the process of making my own. I am getting marine grade shielded wire. It's a little more expensive. Still quite a bit cheaper with a DIY job.

Pretty much. Solder connections with heat shrink is best with 8 to 10 awg wire will do exact same thing and be alot cheaper then this $240 wiring harness

For any size wire, the longer it is the more resistance it yields. Smaller wires give more resistance for a given length than larger wires, so running 20 ft of heavy wire to 2 ft of small wire (the leads from the units) gives less total resistance than 22 ft of the small wire.

Ermanno D'Angelo the line loss on 12v dc is minimal, you are right. 25 ft of 12 awg with a 1 amp load would be like a .66% loss of voltage, those giant wires are for show.

Your installer probably ran 16 gauge wire to your units, run 10 gauge directly to all your units off your power and their won’t be such a high power draw when you crank the big motor. Upgrading to lithium’s will not change the current supply of your graph wiring.

"your" is making smart predictions. If your graph shuts down when you crank the outboard, that typically is caused by: 1) The wiring between the battery and the graph has (unnecessary) splices of a substandard quality and/or the conductor's gauge is too small (16 ga. being common, heavier 10 ga. being what often corrects the problem)., or 2) Your battery is inadequate to begin with or is beginning to fail. Buying a Lithium technology battery is NOT the way to fix this issue, and it may not! (especially if the wiring is substandard). Get your cranking battery load tested, and make sure it is rated to crank your outboard in the first place.

Mabe a dead spot in the key switch when it's in the crank spot.🤔

@@randyroth383 no, he has inadequate wiring resulting in voltage drop below minimum for the unit when he engages the starter, so it shuts down. This problem seems to occur 100s or 1000s of times per month as a result of shoddy installation or sometimes weak starting battery about to fail. I'm always amused watching people's very expensive attempts to correct a $20 wiring issue.

@@user-xt3hs8ys5c you're very welcome. This topic is something I happen to know a lot about (professionally).

Fish On! It ain’t. It’s snake oil go get people to spend their hard earned money on $30 worth of wire.

You got the heat shrink part right. Solder? Nope, afraid not; use solderless crimp terminals/connectors instead. The aviation industry does this for numerous reasons that also apply to marine electrical systems.

Nice harness. Terminal buses are nice also

Solder isn't better for a boat. It creates rigid points where the conductors are prone to break adjacent to the solder joint. Crimped terminals with adhesive shrink tubing are actually preferred.

@@txman201 Yes I stand corrected here as I learned from a marine tech. I just bought a new Ranger and installed new graphs. I went the way of crimps and shrink tubing.

@@bassinwithbuck4955 enjoy it. I have a 521c. I'm in the middle of a DIY upgrade - Ghost + 2 more screens upsized to 12 inch, 4 total now.

Actually the better right way is with marine grade wire, solderless crimp terminals, and heat shrink. Solder and shrink tubing isn't preferred in marine work for the same reason it's typically not preferred (or even allowed) in aviation - it creates stiff points in the wiring where vibration can break the wire inside the insulation.

Do you like blowing smoke on things you don't understand? Seems so. Quite a few of the premium 12" screen units draw a typical 2 amps, others far less. A proper main battery in a boat typically isn't depleted by having electronics attached. Note that any time the outboard is on and above idle, the battery is being charged, as well as providing power for the electronics. I've got a Group 31 AGM for starting my Merc 250 and running 4 12" graphs. I have yet to need to use my jump-starter. I do put the two console units in standby when I go to the bow to fish. I have 3 100A lithiums for the TM, but have yet to need a 5th battery.

Thanks!

It could be electrical noise from the other components as well if it’s tied in at a fuse block etc. which is why all units say run directly to battery. Basically if anyone is already running directly to the battery they ain’t gonna gain anything with this $200 piece of trash