You Set The Piston To TDC Then Adjust Them ?

@@bagpuss121 I really like to use the manufactures recommend way but if you turn the engine over by hand and watch the valves as described you will good results. What you are trying to achieve is getting the cam lobe on the base circle or rounded bottom. I do it with a push button starter button when in a hurry. Taking the plugs out can make hand turning easier. No need to have tdc, just watch the valves and you'll be right on the money.

@@mikegoodman447that’s all I’ve ever done, just get the valve fully closed and have the rocker on the furthest away from the tip of the lobe and it’s never been a problem 🤷‍♂️

@@Thedar561 I have seen valves adjusted all sorts of ways. Until I started working on race engines where a few thousandths might ruin your your day. Making sure it's on the base circle , in other words opposite of the cam lobe is the absolute way to get the correct clearance. One way I could never master was adjusting them while it was running. I have seen it done and I rechecked them and they were pretty darn close to specs, but the guy was a master at engines, especially old engines.

You will need to check/adjust valves after replacing the head gasket, even if you didnt change anything. Lash specs are engine specific, you will need to look up the make/model, and sometimes the serial number of your engine to get the valve lash spec. A lot of the time its printed on the valve cover.

Oi so you answered question its about time and the number of times having to roll engine over .

Can you do them by firing order ?

I did this method on a 8 yo motorcycle that I overhauled and changed everything inside, it had the tiking sound no matter what when adjusting valves at TDC and according to manual. I'm guessing the valve seats were worn out, and it lowered the tiking sound to almost none when doing it this way.

Yes, the 'ticking sound' can be made to disappear by simply adjusting the valve lash to below specification , compensating for uneven wear of the cam lobe. Whether your valve seats are worn or not, the valve will be quieter with tighter valve lash (gap). Problem is: If you set it just a small amount too tight, you can ruin the cam, ruin the valve , ruin the follower and ruin the seat....but I'm sure you knew that already, and did it anyway, right? While the ticking is annoying, it is less harmful to the engine than a valve that is set too tight. Ever notice how YT is full of 'specialists' that know better than than the manufacturer who designed & built the engine? Hey, its your engine, you adjust it any way you please.@@GDurango11

@@almostbutnotentirelyunreas166 hey thanks for the awesome feedback hehe! I completely get you, the thing is it's a 180.000 km bike that I had babied like nothing else. At the 150.000 mark this dude that I was recommended, adjusted the valves and the tiking sound began, then I started this journey of fixing my own engine, downloading the full manual, buying the wrenches and sockets and all that stuff, I changed everything inside the engine leaving alone the gearbox. I bought new timing chain, tensioner, camshaft, piston, rings, valves, springs, everything and I adjusted the valves to the manual recommendations, the sound was still there and was driving me nuts. I came to realization that it must be the valve seats worn out like hell, because when I took out the old valves, the exhaust one was 150% worn out... and once I adjusted the valves using this overlapping method, the motorcycle got quieter... so I don't know... If anything, the spare parts are not that expensive hehe. And also after adjusting the valves to this method the motorcycle feels faster. Perhaps the manual setting for the valves is more suitable for a new bike, and the cylinder head is way too expensive just for the seats.

Sounds like you won the lottery on this engine! (BTW, a m-bike engine is hardly 'commercial' or diesel, so the risk is even higher, with tighter tolerances). For most other YT patrons, the story will end differently: Tight valve clearances (i.e super quiet) lead to burnt valves and/or worn followers and/or piston vs valve head contact ('dropped valve, usually at high rpm, catastrophic engine damage .But since it worked for you: The exception proves the rule. Luck counts!@@GDurango11