Hi! First, I'm glad it was helpful and that you tweaked the workflow after learning it, that is something you should always do with tutorials and presets. 😁 Second, only the Shadows and Blacks need to be increased, from the Basics panel, in order to help and amplify what the Tone Curve does. The rest like Contrast, Highlights etc. are situational, based on how you want your overall exposure to be. The Calibration panel alters how Lightroom will interpret the colors in the photo. If I move the Red Primary to the left to Magenta, then the HSL Red will interpret different hues for Red and Magenta, an example you can try, if you want the famous teal and orange look, slide the Blue Primary to the left and the Red Primary to the right and then try to change the HSL and see how the values are interpreted differently. BUT the most important thing regarding Red Primary is that it also affects skin tones which are in the Red-Magenta to Yellow / Pale Yellow range, so not touching it gives you more flexibility with the HSL specifically for skin tones. The Split Toning was based on what I saw ( my monitor displayed ) in samples of Fujifilm Superia 400 and Kodak Gold 200 film stocks, taken in different lighting conditions. And basically that is the main logic behind what I did in this video. The only thing that is constant is the Tone Curve with muted highlights and faded / lifted blacks and a similar S curve to what I did. If you want another experiment like the teal and orange one from above, search any other film stock that is out there and try to replicate it from scratch or apply my workflow and change only the settings that will give you the same look as the film stock you chose. Example of keywords to search: kodak ektrachrome samples. And ( shameless plug ) if you want more workflows like this, I got another one for the Blade Runner look on my channel and also FREE presets in the first link in my description. You can download those and see how those affect your photos and WHY they affect them in that specific way. Kinda like reverse-engineering. Cheers 🍻

Wow thanks for the very thorough reply. Very very insightful!@@shutterspecter

I bought this preset but I can’t get it.

Thank you 🍻 will do my best to keep it special !

Which ideas sparked your interest ?

Thank you and I am really glad it helped !

thank you for the kind words my dude 🍻 i'm glad the tutorial and preset were helpful 😁

Thank you for supporting the channel and I'm glad the video was helpful. 🍻

don't forget there is also a free preset in the description and also, if you want, let me know if the settings worked out for your shoot 🍻

I'm glad it was helpful 🍻

it comes by default with Lightroom and Lightroom Classic. Either reinstall Lightroom or check the Adobe help page " how to restore Adobe Camera Profiles".

Thank you and I'm glad you enjoyed the tutorial 🍻

Yes it is possible, with Lightroom or other programs. If you want to do it in Lightroom, you will need the latest version that has the new Denoise tool, which will help you remove the natural gran in the photo. After that just play with the Sharpen, Dehaze, Clarity and Texture sliders to remove the softness that comes with film and after that, just play with the rest of the sliders to get the result you want for contrast, colors and so on.

thank you very much 😁 if you want another tutorial about a different look in Lightroom, drop a reply with it !

Thank you and I'm glad it was helpful 🍻

Thanks and I'm glad it helps 🤟

For this particular look, I took inspiration from every film stock that promotes warm colors ( like kodak portra, kodak gold and so on ), other wise I look at movies or TV series to get inspiration, sometimes even other creators. How and why I chose those colors and highlights? It's simple, I looked at a ton of images shot on film and saw that most of the time teal is in the sky ( due to the warm yellow-orange light from the sun hitting the blue sky ) and yellow-orange is always in the midtones due to the sunlight bathing everything in it's gold light. One of the best ways to learn how to color correct and color grade ( which includes mixing colors ) is to replicate other looks, that way you play with each tool the editing program offers and you see the effects of those tools in action. Here's a fun experiment, set your white balance to 6000K, your Tint to -5, go to the Tone Curve, select the blue channel and set a point some where in the middle to lower left part of the curve line and drag it down towards yellow but not too much. Then go to the Calibration panel, set blue Hue all the way to the left, it should give you some strong oranges especially in the skin tones and then got to HSL and play with yellow and orange hues, saturation and luminance to dial in a good skin tone if you have a subject in your picture and from there start playing with the rest of the tools to achieve the famous teal and orange look you see in movies or a warm summer afternoon ( let's say 16-17:00 as time and sunlight 😁)

Also would be interested in watching a long KZfaq video on how to color grade photos and create almost any look you see ?? I haven't made it yet but I am curious if you would watch something like that.

@@shutterspecter I would absolutely love that! Thank you for explaining - you have really simple and clear way of expaining complex topics

i'm glad to hear that, hope it was helpful 😁

Yes of course, if it does not serve your final result you can skip it, but keep in mind one thing: with the Tone Curve tool you have more granular control over how colors are introduced in the image, because the Color Grading Wheels just tint the image and you can only control the Hue and Saturation.

In the Tone Curve tool, grab the highlights point ( default top right corner point in the tool ) and drag it down to about Output: 240 or 230 depending on how harsh your highlights are. The other thing you can do is to switch from Point Tone Curve tool, to Parametric Tone Curve ( the first left white circle on the tool ). The Parametric TC has 4 sliders and one is for highlights, drag that to the left to get the negative values. And on to of all these, in the color grading tool you can lower the highlights as well. Let me know if these have helped.

You can set Texture and Clarity to around -10 or -12 and see if that makes your photos a bit softer. Otherwise you might need to right click the photo > edit in photoshop and look up some tutorials on how to create realistic chromatic aberration, cause lightroom does not have the tools to do it

My pleasure my dude !

If you have the latest version of Lightroom classic, then yes, they did changed a few UI elements and added new features. My video was posted 2 years ago so yeah, things are different

yea same hahah

There is a almost 36 min video here on the channel ( shameless plug 🤣 ) from 2 years ago, that gives you a crash course 😁

@@shutterspecter I'll find it and take my time lol, thanks btw👍👍

after you click the 4 boxes to enter the Profile Browser, you should by default be set to see All types of profiles, which are each in their own Drop down menu. Again this is the default after a fresh installation. It should be like this: Adobe Raw Camera Matching Artistic B&W Modern Vintage If you never had this after a fresh installation, then go to Edit > Preferences > Presets and under the Raw Defaults you have Global, here by default it should be Adobe Default set. Check and see if you have the same setting and if not, changed it to Adobe Default and also make sure you are in Lightroom Classic. I do not use the other version so I have no knowledge how things are set in that version, Lightroom CC or how it's called. If you still do not get the Adobe Camera profiles even after you set your Global Raw default, then I'm afraid only a fresh re-installation of Lightroom will help.

Thank you !! 🍻🍻🍻

Extract the ZIP file anywhere you want > open Lightroom Classic > go the the Develop mode > and on the left panel you have the Presets menu > open it and click on the + (plus ) button and then Import presets > navigate to where you extracted the presets > select the folder that was extracted > click on Import and they should appear in the list. If they do not appear immediately > restart Lightroom > then go back to Develop and the Presets menu on the left side > click the + icon and select Manage Presets > once the menu window opens check the box next to the name of the presets folder from the ZIP file and then they should appear.

Adobe Neutral comes with Lightroom and Lightroom Classic by default, no need to download them. If you do not see them, then you are not editing a Raw photo from a DSLR or mirrorless camera. Even if you take Raw photos on your phone, you still do not get the full Adobe profiles that are built in. If you use Lighroom Classic, like I do in the video, your Presets windows should be in the Developer tab, on the left panel. If you do not see the left panel, there should be an arrow that opens the menu. By default, the panel should be visible after you install the program and you also should see some default presets that come with the program. Finally, if you see the Presets window on the left panel, you should have a + ( plus ) button next to where it says " Presets ". Click it and select Manage presets to make any preset visible in the list. If you use the other Lightroom, then I can't help you since I do not use that version.

@@shutterspecter well I’m using a gr iii. Might be the issue I guess

@@Juanitoooooooooooooooooo i did a quick check and it seems since February 2023 or so, the GR III has Adobe Camera Raw support in Photoshop and in Lighroom Classic, which means all the Ricoh camera profiles should be visible, including the Adobe Profiles.

@@shutterspecter thanks so much , but still can’t find it on lr classic.. I will find a way.

Thank you, much appreciated ! 🍻

1. Extract the ZIP file to your desktop computer, not to your phone. 2. Open Lightroom ( CC and Classic ) and go to the Presets section. Click on File > Import Profiles & Presets. 3. Select the presets ZIP file(s) and click Import. → Selecting the ZIP file. 4. Restart Lightroom and your presets will now be listed in the Presets section.

@@shutterspecter thank you 👍🏼✨

Yes, import the presets on your desktop and log in to your Adobe account on your Lightroom Mobile App. The presets will automatically sync between the desktop and the mobile app and your import will be complete.

If by camera Raw presets you mean the Adobe profiles and your camera profiles, then make sure you are editing Raw photos. Otherwise you won't have them available. If you are editing Raw photos and still do not have the profiles, reinstall Lightroom.

Thanks for the comment tho 🍻

When I find the video is too fast, I put the play back speed on slower to help 😊