I find that CA glue is great at transferring my finger prints to my work piece...:)

This man is the woodworking version of Bob Ross his voice is both educational and soothing

Been doing similar for years; I usually make the return longer, glue in place using tape to fold into place, then trim and finish the stub to be flush with the back of the moulding. Easier than fiddling around with tiny (and fragile) pieces.

There is actually another option thats a variant of your preferred self return. Instead of a 90 deg/square return, you can do a 45 degree version where the baseboard appears flows into the wall. It is particularly useful when you want to terminate at a thinner material such as tile. I can't take credit for this one - learned it from the legend Gary Katz

Tip for using the super glue. You can use it without the activator initially for more working time. I oftentimes will put glue on, put the pieces together and hold for about 10 seconds, then spray the back side with the activator. With MDF especially, the activator will soak the material and activate the glue. Even without the activator, the cyanoacrylate glue will bond with a bit more time and be just as strong.

You've got great content, and a great on-camera demeanor. Thanks for your contribution to the repair/remodel youtube realm.

Great tip. But "no fancy tools required" . I'd say a sliding compound miter saw is a fairly fancy bit of kit. Best purchase I've made in awhile and it's paid for it'self many times over.

If your a carpenter doing finish trim invest in a "Hot Glue" gun,,that works great and no need for nails,,perfect joint every time

Recently bought a new house and have been doing some remodeling. I am an amateur but about 20 years ago some of my early jobs were construction so I have some skill. Anyway just wanted to say that I have found your videos very helpful for tips and bringing back some of that forgotten knowledge. Thanks.

So amazingly helpful! thank you. I am planning to make a semi complicated box to make our plant drape in a really pretty way and this will make it look beautiful!

I really enjoy your videos and learn some great tips from them and reading the comments. Love your simple no hype style . Well done from an Australian 😊

Used CA doing my baseboards and other trim. Works like a champ! Used it to apply the skins to my new kitchen cabinets as well. Thanks for reminding me to buy a new blade for the miter saw. 👍🏼

Excellent video. Few things that help me. Always keep a small cup of warm water and keep dipping your finger in the water. Also when you have caulk in your finger, just wipe it on the back of your opposite hand. It's my painter's pallette. I reuse in spots needed. Less waste also. Keep up the good work

Nicely, clearly explained. No nonsense, nicely videos. Thank you

“No fancy tools required” …uses a Festool chop saw. If your saw allows for the space I like to use a make to prevent the little piece getting flung across the room.

I love watching your videos and the way you explain things! Have a home remodel project and I’ll be be referring back to quite a few of them as I go. Thank you so much for them! 😊❤️

One tip I would add to this is putting a wood backer on your miter fence that will keep the piece from being kicked by the blade. This also has the added benefit of stopping tear out on the cut exit. I use two pieces of .25in x 1.5in x 12in on each side of my fence with a little double sided tape to hold it on. This makes those small cuts so much easier to do with far fewer messed up pieces. So many times I've had tiny pieces get grabbed by the miter saw blade and thrown at 100mph, but having that gap closed with the temporary wooden fence that closes the large gap of the permanent fence solves that issue.

Great teacher, the way you describes the working process is really relaxing and crystal clear good stuff，，👍👍👍

This was so helpful. I wish I could havre irked with someone like you years ago. You are an excellent instructor.

I built staircases, and usually got the millwork installation too. Before that, like most, I packed lumber and framed. Framers want to kill you in the winter, when they see through the windows in your stocking feet, ticky tackin up all of that beautiful light wood/mdf. I would tell them that “the instructions are in boxes that my parts are shipped to me in”. That’s how I learned, I taught several, friends for life. “Thank for teaching”. (The old ones, taught me the most.)

I've used a hot glue gun since the 1970s for all trim returns . Thanks for Your insights . Good info for Us all .

Brand new subscriber here from Fall River, Massachusetts! I often wondered how to do those returns! Thanks a lot for your video! 🇺🇦🇺🇸🤜

This guy is absolutely on of the best in his craft. Explained perfectly well. I am confident I can try and attempt this at home now.

Will need this tip when I redo the living room as it leads to the hallway. Love the details. Keep ‘em coming.

God dammit! All these years running trim and I didn’t think of this cut! Thanks dude

What a great teacher!

I would note, that I find it vastly easier not to cut all the way through on my return blocks. Those tiny little 45 degree triangles tend to get thrown all over when you cut them completely through, particularly if you are cutting them on the miter and not the bevel, as shown here, and often ruined when the blade catches them. I find it much easier just to leave the back bottom corner in place when cutting, and then you can break them off easily, and trim off anything you may need to with your utility knife. Also, when doing this at scale, I recommend building your returns and joins on the backside of another piece of baseboard from somewhere else in the install. This way, the extra glue doesn't get anywhere you care about, and you can use activator to neutralize any drip through, and not worry about messing up any part of the house you are working in. It's also flat, and long enough that you can force the baseboard flat when doing long joints to make sure the joint closes properly.

What a brilliant video and exactly what I need for a job I have to do.

Excellent as always. Thank you

Whoever did my house before I bought it did something I really like and never would have thought of, return in a post an inch or two taller than the base. Looks like a tiny obelisk. Really cool in my opinion and not too difficult to make a ton of them and toss them in.

Really good tips! Thank you.🙂

Good tips, nice job

As a contractor myself, I don’t know what cheap customer is going to pay for the time and money it takes to do a return like this. The easiest way I do returns is just using a palm sander to round the edge. I do have to repaint it but it’s just more cost effective. Sadly most customers don’t appreciate or want to pay for a nice return method like this in the video.

To line them up for glueing, use a straight edge and butt the workpiece against it so when you add the other one just slide it down the straight edge then push into place. Perfect fit!

Great video.. It took me a while to learn this technique; as DIY we don’t do it on the daily. However, if you do end up with a bit of a gap, I use DAP spackle and clean it up with a damp sponge.. It works well..

Love the turn down idea....never seen that before.

LOVE THE DETAIL ................ COVERING ALL THE DO AND DON'TS . most others only generalize THANK YOU !!!!!!

Nice trick! Thanks, enjoyed watching.

Good video. I actually like the 2nd option you showed for the application by the stairs. Just my opinion. Thanks.

Great instructional video, for those who don’t know how to do this.

Nice job sir, thanks!

Thank you for this video!

Tanks, you are very professional 🤝

I prefer wood glue and a couple really short 23ga, and yeah, assemble on a flat surface before putting on the wall.

Wow 🤩 I have never come across this method before Awesome 💪

Nicely done, or as I used to do mitre the end then with a coping saw cut following the profile, then a light sand up , no dangerous tiny slithers.

You're a highly skilled man, both in terms of doing the work, but also explaining it. THANK YOU!!!

Excellent video! Except I have to respectfully disagree with the turn down return looking good at all. Never got that at all. Love your approach to safety for cutting the turn in return without over doing it. There are new folks watching and it’s important to help them keep their fingers intact. The gluing techniques are spot on! Your out takes at the end are MONEY! Especially the Minn-esotan one! 🤣🤣🤣Thanks for the info and the chuckle!

I never even though about this. Nice video, a detail I've never noticed

A headless pin nailer and standard wood glue work great as well. Make good cuts with a good blade and it won't look like an info-mercial. This seems a little overkill.

I made good experience with acrylic caulking for glue. It takes a day to cure, but it looks nice and doesn't stick my finger to the wall.

Hi, I love your videos. You are incredibly informative and you make it entertaining. I had a quick question. I have a bunch of french doors with very short runs of baseboard in between. I was wondering if it would be lame to just use the router to 1/4 round off the edge of the baseboard as a return instead of cutting 1000 little pieces for returns. Thanks

Thank for the video

didn't know about the sliding aspect.. Thnks!

Great video 👍🏾 👍🏾

A lot easier in a workshop. Where as on price work with a pencil sqr a ruler and handsaw. Then either no nails, hitting nails or a drill plugs and screws to fit it to the wall. Plus a saw bench. Or lugging a cross cut saw around the site. It's a good idea to carry a tub of putty to fill gaps in the joint. Otherwise the painter will just use caulk.

Great video, many thanks! Learnt some great new tips!

I use wood glue (Pattex D3 ). Works like a charm, allows for corrections and dries within half an hour.

I agree and nicely demonstrated 🙏

Great knowledge. TFC is a master of his trade

Nice job. Two off and I go into a house and see somebody did it just a square cut absolutely unacceptable unless the homeowner Did it himself I myself don’t have the luxury of that nice slide saw but I manage I have been using wood glue and tape but the glue you’re using looks pretty slick thanks for posting

Honestly the bottom straight 90 cut in the thumbnail looks just fine and the best to me.

This is pretty much exactly how I do them too, you hit the important points!

Thanks for the tip!!!

This works on decent size mouldings and on MDF. We use 11mm thick skirt and arch. It would still be possible but return is tiny. Plus CA glue not so good on pine. Which is our most common material. It is neat on what you use though.

Thanks. My wife mentioned the walls that need trim in our home....Now I have no excuse.

Tip: Don't worry about cutting the return piece to perfect length! Let it be a little bit long. Glue it to the main piece, trim to fit, possibly with a sander, then attach it to the wall.

Thanks for the advice. Please tell me what brand slide miter saw you have in this video. I prefer the pistol grip. Thanks!

A good complement to this video would be the "Brent Hull" channel which teaches what a good molding should look like.

In situations where I need to be certain about placement of glued pieces I forgo using the accelerator. I do a test with the brand I have on hand to be sure it eventually hardens.

CA glue is amazing…I can’t believe I only learned about it recently.

Unfortunately I only have an old Craftsman chop saw, but I got it for free from family, so can't complain. But I did get a diablo finish blade, 80 teeth I think, which does super clean cuts. Using painters tape over a cut can help prevent tear-out as well I think. I also had to try to calibrate my saw so it was square at to 0° mark. If either cut is off by the smallest amount the return will look like crap. I cut a ton of returns for door casing headers. CA glue + activator worked great, and any minor seams I filled with white wood filler, sanded, primed, painted. A lot of work for something no one will notice haha, but looks perfect to me! Baseboards next!

Great vid, would add that you can set your saw on a slight bevel to ensure that return piece sits nice and tight to the wall. Learned to use glue/activator from your for miter vid and haven't gone back!

Fantastic!

I like to use a piece of tape to hold the return to the saw surface so it doesn't fly away after cutting. And if your return is a little heavy, you can stand the piece up and run it through a table saw set to the thickness of the trim to cut the back edge of the return to proper thickness

Well done 👍

Saving this video!

Sweet! Making pros out of us amateurs!

Nice job!

I love the that saw had one at my last job best for finish work

I would love to hang out with this man for a week.

When I cut the returns, I like to try to time shutting off the saw so that the blade is almost stopped as it finishes the cut and keep the blade below the surface of the cutting surface. That way the piece doesn't vibrate or slip into the blade and launch out. Then you're cutting a new piece and not having it possibly thrown back at you

I’ve always just coped mine. Draw a line, cope it as close as you can, then finish it up with find rasps, or files.

On MDF I wet the joints with a damp sponge. This stops the glue and activator from soaking in. Always works, never had a problem and the joint is strong. You use less glue and activator. Its cleaner as well. Try it out on a scrap piece you will always use it.

Damn, that's beautiful. Great video. Question - what slide saw are you using? That was very smooth.

good video. would like to see one on the different glues you use.

Excellent and enjoyable

You are legend.

Alright, alright, fine. You convinced me to subscribe.

Why does anybody use MDF for baseboard or door casing???? ANY bit of moisture wicking up from the unfinished bottom and that crap swells up and starts looking NASTY. I look forward to hearing opinions on that. Haven't seen the turning down 90 deg to the floor option before, I'll have to try that. Something I like is a 45 deg return on base, chair rail and crown, cutting both pieces on a 22 1/2 deg instead of a 45 deg. Thanks. Everybody take care. I did enjoy the video.

Great job god bless

BSI (Bob Smith Industries) makes good CA as well. Good variety of products and solid applicators.

Great video Thx! White glue is a heck of a lot safer if you don't have adequate ventilation.. read the warnings on the activator can Bro!

Fine finishing work is difficult for me. Thanks for the secrets. Subbed

good video. ith the gluing whats the spray applicator actually do?

A couple times I made the return too long but with a small moulding with a good flat on the face I could trim it flush with the back at the table saw.

Thanks Funny Man. Another great tip.

Such a great video bud! Here in the Netherlands its not usual to use moulding because the walls are made of brick or gyporock but i always love the look of moulding and i really wanna start using it in projects, some great tips as always bud! Expecially the CA glue i really need that. Have a great weekend bud🍻🍻

I have a sliding door closet, how would I install baseboards around it without it interfering with the door closing? Should I terminate the baseboard once it meets the sliding door, or do I leave a gap for the door and also baseboard inside the closet?

You're making it more complicated than it needs to be.