I'll admit that somewhere through the video it seemed like a lot of trouble to go to, wiring your lift-out bridge LEDs this way just to get flashing lights. But the practicality of doing it in a way that you could use the power supply already present on the bridge won out. I think a lot of us, by now, have all or most of the components somewhere in our stash, so it was never a matter of expense even though none of the electronics cost much when not purchased as a kit. It's the power of the picture: at the end when you just lifted the bridge out and set it back in place, with all the lights working exactly as desired and no need to connect or disconnect anything that made your whole point. I will most certainly watch this video a few more times so I can recreate this idea on my own layout. Thank you for that. You are an excellent problem-solver. Just an aside: when I solve my layout problems with this bridge idea I will probably use my Cricut Maker to cut some styrene trusswork to make the bridge look more like a bridge. It won't be exact or particularly detailed, to keep cost down, but making the lift-out bridge seem more like an actual part of the railroad is an interesting idea. If I do that I'll probably move the LEDS to the trusswork tops. As always, your stuff is really great. Thank you so much, for doing all the thoughtwork that leaves the rest of us more sure we can do such cool things too. You constantly expand our capacity to imagine what we can do ourselves, without breaking anything! For example I'll venture the thought that watching your many top quality videos has left a lot of us a bit less afraid of aiming our hot soldering irons at tiny stuff, and usefully putting together bit-sized electronics is now nowhere near as intimidating as it might once have been. We owe you so very much indeed! Your credentials as a valued instructor are superb.

You should make a video dedicated to your entire setup/model railroad. I think after the bridge, there is a hole in the wall and the track continues to another room? It looks cool.

Wow, the LEDs really add to the bridge. Great video and nice work!

Those leds definitely will get someone's attention, nice addition to your bridge. I'm glad you did this video. I purchased some red flashing leds like you have but when I put 12v power to it was solid, but 9v it flashed. I wasn't sure how to get it to work with dcc. Thanks to you, now I do. Chuck

A really great video Larry 👏👏👏

Thank you Larry fir all you do in our Hobby..

You can buy different flashing time, eg fast or slow flash. The candle flicker LEDs are really nice too for a for fire effects..

Great video Larry! I can see in your smile, you're a lifetime member/buyer of those power point connectors! 🤠👍

Nice vid. Very informative, as usual. I add that you consider keying the liftout so that it can only be inserted one way. If someone lifts it out, turns around, and then goes to replace it, they'll be trying to insert it backwards.

Thanks for this video! But if there was an LED with an IC containing the right capacitor, you'd only need the bridge rectifier?

Great video Larry and the lift out bridge is very definition of simplicity. The flashing lights look really cool and will certainly attract attention but after working many years in the medical field, specifically in the ER, I have learned never to underestimate the human's ability to do incredibly stupid things. Good Luck.

The bridge turned out very nice, great solution. I'm gonna use something like this for my layout

Very interesting, Larry, not least in exemplifying the nature of the DCC waveform. I wondered if you'd tried it with just just the capacitor (i.e. without the rectifier): the LED illuminated on DCC current, so would a capacitor on its own be enough to overcome the on-off nature of the power? Interesting you mentioned using a fluorescent flicker simulator to "light" a model camp fire. When I was in the theatre, we used a fluorescent starter in series with a lamp to produce a random flicker for a "flame."

Well thats a fine job well done again Larry

Can you put these lights on a timer so they blink at different times, not all at once?

You did pretty good with your explanations, but one of these days, please consider using an oscilloscope to explain what is at the track with a DCC system and how a bridge will effectively make pulsating DC out of it and finally how a capacitor will smooth out the ripple to effectively give near pure DC as with a battery. As to the effect on the bridge, with the flashing LED lamps, Damn good idea, Kudos.

I really enjoy all of your videos, but this one (along with the others on the drop bridge) may be my favorites. I have been working with LED's recently and really appreciate the info on material needed for flashing LED's if used on DCC. I also like the design of the drop bridge you have presented (taking off without having to disconnect wires). That really gives me some good design ideals for the future (planing on making a wall-based layout ... need several bridges at various spots). Thanks again and really look forward to every video you publish.

Great stuff. Smart ideas for any railroad.

I had a question since you were touching on LED’s . I have a PSX-1 , I’m sure most folks will mount these like I did , under the control panel or bench work . My question is what would be the most effective way to connect a LED to the short circuit side of the device , so I could mount a visible LED above the bench work to identify which district has the short when you have several folks operating on the layout at the same time .

Great video. Do you have to have all those gadgets for every light? Can you have flashing or blinking lights on a different power source?

Very cool solution, Larry. Thanks for this video!

THAT is awesome! Great idea. The whole bridge is a great idea!

Bravo good work!Interesting setup too. 🎉

Where did you get the lights and what is the part number? I have a DC setup.

Hi Larry. I have a MRC Prodigy Advance2. According to the Manual, the DCC signal output is 14.5 V amplitude. Will this approach work with the Prodigy Advance2? I believe you mentioned the bridge rectifier inputs are "AC". Want to make sure I don't mess up anything. Thanks Ron

Can I use a separate power source for all my LED lights?

Larry, Now that All ELecronics is no longer available, do you have a similar source for all these great parts they sold at reasonable prices?

Larry, can't believe missed this episode, the capacitor is what was missing in my attempt to do the same recently. THANKS. Now have a question for you. While I was searching for information, this video did come up, which is great, but I was searching for how to use this same idea in another way on my layout. Would like to use this concept on each Turnout Control Panel for the 10 operating blocks. On each turnout panel the blinking LEDs would be used to indicate a short circuit in that block rather than some of the other concepts. Have you an idea as to how this could be accomplished.

hello larry its is randy and i like u video is cool model railorading thanks larry friends randy

Hi Larry, Really enjoy your informative videos. The 'Flashing LED', at least the ones I have purchased, have another surprise! Both the 3mm and 5mm LEDs if power is reversed they will 'Burn Out'. Had to use a 'Diode Rectifier' on the negative side to prevent positive feedback when the power was reversed while being used with a Tortoise. Do the ones you have 'burn ou't if the power is reversed? The ones I have no one was able to determine why it happened, my thoughts were that the circuit in the LED to make it 'FLASH' could not handle reversed voltage. Your thoughts.

Larry, what a great video and explanation. Is there a way to regulate the rate of flash?

Thanks for the very informative video! Could you do a video on using LEDs with the DS64 and a local panel with a pushbutton to change turnouts locally?

Thanks for the great video, On a HO Loco with a Digitrax sound decoder ,how would I hook up a flashing roof light?

Larry excellent, now a question about the auto reverse loop you are working on , you need 12 volt dc , using DCC power would we need a rectifier for that application, this video give me some ideas for future layout I am working on

thank you for this video, but i have just a few small questions. first what determines the size of resistor to use and how would i choose for myself. next you used recifiers and and a capacitor. how did you know what size of those to use.

I'm starting my first HO layout and I like the video you did with the new Walthers turnouts what are your thoughts about the Walthers new Flex track

I would like to know if one could put alternating lights on RR crossing Gates?

What an interesting idea! Thanks for introducing us to this very novel application. By the way, your lift-out bridge itself appears to be the ultimate in simplicity. Thanks for another great video.

Is the led 12 volt? Thanks Ron

Gave me an idea I may use on the approach to the turntable

Larry: you have a couple of Lifelike E's behind you. The axle 'bearings' fall out. Cannot locate replacements. Any ideas??? Thanks. (If in doubt, bore the fur off Larry) Pete

As an aside you can also buy flickering LED's as opposed to flashing ones