Obviously, the '10 and the '14 are outside my wheelhouse due to electronics and EFI, but I'd definitely be interested in the Vmax work. Hit me up email and I can go over the new information regarding how things have to run regarding the business side. motorestofl@gmail.com. I do not work through KZfaq comments, only email and then by phone. Or, look up my phone you'll find it, it's even written on the stalls of most bathrooms, so I am told. heheheh. You can also find this email on my channel main page, under the "about" heading. Cheers.

Thanks. I think today I might finally get to doing a test ride, if the ancient GoPro behaves, I'll see what I can do to record a voice-over from my Sena headset comm's to the phone and edit it up for the channel.

I have two of those tools, I use the motion pro shorty with the two bevel gears the most; however, what you need for this is really a 20 or 30 degree which would be difficult to use unless a part extended backwards to hold onto so the entire tool won't rotate. I'm gonna score an extra-long thin screwdriver somewhere (or make one probably) which will make getting in there a bit easier. Thanks.

Yes. I don’t remember the sizes off the top of my head though. It’s in one of my videos on this bike.

@@MotoRestoFL Thank you, I'll check out the video.

I was going to suggest contacting V4dreams.com but their website is gone, he may be out of business. Other than they, I can't suggest a place for the fuel screws. As for O-rings, if there's a place or groove towards the head of the screw for an O-Ring, I'd be using that one only. As for the carb kits, I assume you purchased some Chinese kits or perhaps K and L? Don't trust any parts in those kits. You can use them, just don't assume they're right. You can certainly get away with most of the rubber parts (nitrile or whatever it is) but the jets and slide needle9s) are often incorrect. Double check everything. As for the turns out, It was good at my initial testing which I reported in this video. However, further riding still showed a slight problem at that 5K mark and rolling out of that RPM range. I rejetted one more time and finally settled on 122's in the mains and 42 for the pilot or slow jets. 3 turns out is a good starting point. I honestly don't know where they are right now since I have fiddled with them a bit, but I'd be they're close to 3 maybe 3 and one quarter something like that. Cheers.

If it’s a US model I think those caps are supposed to be limits they can be turned, kinda like the lawn mower engines have so you can’t tamper with them. I’m not sure what’s behind that cap but you can possibly pop them off and re-glue them if necessary and grind the part that sticks out sideways which is supposed to be the limiter; then use as normal. I read somewhere they were initially glued on. If true, I’d use some JB Weld and carefully reattach them steering clear of the fine threads. Assuming, of course, the remaining parts of the screw are fine.

Yes. But I don’t know about the jetting. You can go on a parts site and open two windows and look at both the 700 and 750 in the same carb fiche and compare part numbers. But I’m pretty sure they carb bodies are the same but not 100%.

I misread your question. Yes I mean they are the same far as I can tell.

Thank you sir, I just picked up a neglected 86 700F with 30k miles for 800$, needs some TLC. Internally, so far, seems to be in decent shape.

@@neems2135 cool. Shame these get neglected. But they need regular maintenance and running so it’s easy to see how that could happen.

No way to tell without seeing the bike, unless it's bone stock then refer to the service manual.

@MotoRestoFL okay thank you for the reply I will get it in a garage get them to balance the carbs and dyno tune it for me

Ha. That’s a good one. There are no good mechanics. Whoops.