I bought my 1973 Holdsworth new in 73. It cost 125 us. It has been my only bicycle since. Twice rebuilt, never had a issue that I could not fix myself. The frame is Reynolds 531, a mag- moly tubing. It doesn't rust but oxidises. The BB was without paint for over 30 years. I toured in all weather. 2 more years and we'll be together for 50 years. Wish me luck.

Well done! I have had a “top of the line” carbon 11 speed wonder bike. It was nice but I sold it after a few months and back to my 1987 Eddy Merckx - SLX super butted steel “Cadillac.” Dura Ace 7700 components. It has well over 100,000 miles on it and still looks great, works great, and handles like it’s on rails. It will go as fast as this 62 year old engine can pedal it!

Great video! Got in trouble from my mom in 1972 for spending so much money on a new Gitane ($130). Twenty years ago, I put new rims (Araya) and tires on it. Hadn't really rode it since then. Took the wheels in last month to have them trued and bearings done ($65)....and splurged on new handle bar tape. My 50 year old bike is running better than new, and I'm loving every minute of it! As a Senior, I'm feeling like a kid again!

You are exactly right on how beautiful an older lugged steel frame can be.

3 decades ago I bought a lugged Japanese-made steel machine with Ultegra groupset for $500, brand new. That was as costly a bike as I could justify at the time...and now, about 50,000 miles later, I'm still riding it. And it still has the original groupset, except that I changed to clipless pedals and have replaced drivetrain components (such as cassette and chain) due to normal wear. Best $500 I've ever spent in my life. The fit and ride quality are so good that even now, with cost being no object whatsoever, I would never trade it for a new carbon-fiber "wonder bike". No one else has ever worked on the bike, nor does anyone need to...I own every tool I will ever need to maintain it. It is maintained in pristine condition, and performs exactly as it did when brand new. Incidentally, I ride 2x7 gearing, with 12-28 cassette, and I live in the Blue Ridge Mountains. I can't imagine why so many people are lusting for 12 speeds on the rear, only to end up with thinner drivetrain components that wear out more rapidly and are more temperamental to adjust. I have 2 wheelsets (one original/1990, and the other an aero set from around 2015), and I can swap them without touching any adjustments. My drivetrain is always quiet, shifts very crisply, and I don't have to ratchet through 4 sprockets just to adjust to a moderate change in road gradient.

Modern bikes have owners.... Vintage and classic bikes have custodians....

These bikes were made, like cars of that era, with a soul, there is a record on my Look, a titanium, I'm glad to see you guys!

I have a mint condition early 80’s Tomassini Sintisi that I bought new. Last week I took it off the wall and have been cleaning, lubing and getting it ready to ride. Such a work of art and the ride is so vibrant it’s amazing

Was in the biz 1984 - 2000. Witnessed the big bang from the commercial MTB, and the demise of the drop bar road bike. The birth of index shifting, and everything in between. My parts drawers are replete with 7 and 8 speed components, and my rigs are all steel, including my 1986 Moots. 👍😄

That video reminded me of something only semi related. A few years back I had an old dryer with a problem beyond my capabilities to fix. I had a discussion with the repair person on whether I should have replaced the unit. He told me not to - as the newer appliances are not built as well. A few months back I repaired my refrigerator after a lightning storm seemed to zap a relay. My fridge is a simple model. The man at the parts place discussed more complex models. He told me that even 5 years after the initial sale that parts will not be available. Yet I remember my parents running an old fridge from the depression era until maybe a decade ago. (It outlived them) So in watching the video about the quality, ease of use and longevity of the older bikes, I saw it fitting the pattern of modern manufacturing and planned obsolescence. Thanks for the video.

So right about the value in the 80's machinery. I bought my teenager a Vitus with full first-gen Dura-Ace for $300 and he loves it. Only change we made on it was to switch out the crumbling hoods with some better-feeling modern Shimano levers that hides the cabling for an even better look.

The trouble here in the UK is these are now expensive to buy. I wonder how many of us can think back and say I really wish I hadn't sold that bike. Great video. Thanks

I love your article. I just retired and decided to rehab my 40-year-old Raleigh Super Grand Prix road bike used in countless Triathlons. The frame size alone is not available these days, and as you pointed out, other than a bit of rust, it is as good as it's ever been. I think I paid a little over $500.00 for it back in 1980 and spent about $400.00 to rehab some parts off another Raleigh I had but hadn't ridden as much. It rides wonderfully well for a 66-year-old and is like being with an old friend when I ride.

You had me at "are my derailleur batteries charged"! I had a suburban-kid Puch 10-speed that, 10 years on, my parents, as a holiday present, paid our local bike shop to upgrade. Guy was a friend as well as a businessperson reallly hooked us up with full Campy set-up. Dave removed all the old components. I had the frame sandblasted and repainted it myself (with many many light coats of a beautiful cordovan auto paint with clear finish on top). Dave installed all the new components. Damn this thing was beautiful. Rode it all over trails and roads in New York, Scotland, Boston, Philly, and Seattle before it gave its life saving me in a crash. RIP. Thanks for the video!

I still have my Raleigh Carleton i bought used in 1985! I recently replaced a few parts and was very pleased to see how easy they were to find. Thanks for this video.

Nice video! I am 55 now and started cycling in 1983, my first bike was a simple Peugot featuring Simplex derailleurs + Weinmann brakes. It was heavy, the brakes were terrible, but I loved it. From time to time I bought/built a new bike: Raleigh with Shimano 600, Gios compact with DA 7400, some Principias (danish aluminum frames) with DA 7700 an DA 7800. The last years I use my Ridley Damocles (put more than 100.000 km in it, no issues) and a BMC tmr 01...and boy, these are so much better in many aspects. The old steelbikes are nice to look at, and it´s fun to use them once in a while...but for some serious cycling (long trips, riding cols in the alps and so on) I prefer my modern bikes. They just work better. But the good thing about cycling is: you can have so much fun on any bike, may it be old or new, cheap or expensive! It´s cycling what matters, feeling the sun and the wind, breathing fresh air, feeling your body work... enjoy your ride!

Finally, someone who says the truth and sets the record straight! Great video.

Dude, I agree 100%. I ride my 1981 schwinn traveler . Bought it new in 81 and is all original except for the tires. I love my bike , 10 speed and just a pleasure to ride. I tought my self how to tune it up , from chain to gears. I should add I am 68 years old. I took care of the bike from when it was new. Goes to show how long things can last. Happy riding !

I’m 68 years old and raced on steal frames in the 70’s. These days I use a Carbon frame in my older years to stay competitive on fast group rides. When ever I go back to riding a double butted steal frame, it’s like riding on a cloud. Just a wonderful feeling, my carbon frame just beats me up, it’s so much stiffer. As for components, Shimano Ultegra shifters and caliper brakes are superior to 80’s Campagnolo components. Anyway I learned to work on bikes in the old days. I’m my own mechanic on my newer one. There are plenty of parts for either bike, new or old. Old is not necessary better, it comes down to what you want to ride. Every bike has a purpose. Overall, bike riding is fun. On a huffy, a full vintage, or Carbon race bike. Get out and ride. 😊

I bought a Centurion Super LaMans new in ‘82. Everything still works as new. She turns 40 next year. Thanks for your video!!!

In the 1970s and 80s lightweight steel bikes reached their apotheosis. Components were simple, interchangeable, owner serviceable and long-lasting. The only consumables were bearings, chains, sprockets, cables, pads and tyres, which were inexpensive and could be bought at any bike shop. Then manufacturers rapidly changed componentry standards and created life limited framesets, making bikes disposable and their accountants happy. My five steel bikes run as well as they ever did.

Great video and I agree with you on every point. I have a 46 year old Paramount that I bought for $140 back in 2012 and I wouldn't trade it for anything else. Great bike and rides like a dream. I just love it and will never sell it. I did have to get new tires, tubes, and brake pads. Also I had the spokes replaced with stainless steel units. The bike shop owner had a hard time finding spokes that would fit the wide flange hubs, but eventually he found some in Oregon. He also trued the wheels, it has Araya wheels. It has a nice double-butted lugged frame in 4120 Chromoly steel. Anyway this bike is so nice and still looks nearly new with original paint and decals.

Thank you for a great video. I'm in the middle of performing a major cleanup of my 1983 Fuji Opus 3. I was remarking to my wife about the simplicity, quality and ease of maintenance of the Suntour groupset. Especially compared to the over engineered hydraulic disk brake system on my newest bike. I bought the Fuji new in 1982 and still take it out for ride every year. Don't think I'll take it on any long distance tours but its nice ride down memory lane a few time a year. Thanks again and all the best, Steve

Hello I really enjoyed your video. I have a Bertoni road bike built with Columbus SLX steel tubing, Campagnolo dropouts, and a mix of Shimano Ultegra and Campagnolo components with dual control brake shift levers. The bottom bracket is a sealed bearing Philwood that spins so smoothly. My cassette is a 9 speed and I don't feel the need for any more cassette cogs. I used to race competitively as a cat. 3 rider but then in 1994 I got sick and have not returned to competitive cycling. OCD really screwed up my life! Anyway thank you for your video, I really appreciate it.

I was fortunate enough to recieve a 1980s Bridgestone Radac 530. Beautiful piece of art even though it has some issues because it has been unused for a long time, but it still rides fine and goes real fast. Fortunately there are parts available online and in physical stores as well so fixing it would be a breeze. Happy to have something that has a history and will be talked and I will always take pride in my bike♥

Bought my Raleigh International in 1976 for $520. This, when I was driving an old Ford F100 I paid $100 for. Still riding it today, although a few of the components have changed. Changed from sew-ups to clinchers but still use original Campy hubs. Lifetime warranty on the Reynolds 531 frame! I'm 67 years old now so it will probably be part of my estate when I die.

Great video!!! I purchased my first vintage Velo Sport in the late 70s. Last weekend, I rode it in Niagara Falls to Niagara on the Lake and did 78 kms that included a ride from St Catherines to Niagara. In 2020, I had a tuneup with a new free wheel, new handle bar tape. In July 2021, I had a flat on my front wheel and due to the pandemic there were NO 27 x 1 1/8 tires available. I had to buy Panaracer Pasela 27 x 1 1/4. The problem I am having is taking off the front wheel so that I can lock it with the back wheel with a Kryptonite U lock. I have emailed Continental to ask if they have any 27 x 1 1/8 tires and no reply yet. Only one bike shop in Toronto has the tire. Yesterday, I had to buy a Kryptonite cable so that I can lock up the front wheel as that will prevent pulling and pushing the wheel back into the fork. Do you know where I can buy a Continental Ultra Sport tires 27 x 1 1/8?

Every point well made and much needed in contemporary thinking. Love toe-clips too. Yay!

Unless you race, the latest and greatest is just spending more money. Now if you have free spending money then by all means go for it! But at the end of the day, it just doesn’t matter Cheers

I splurged and had new wheels built for my then $400 1984 Bertin track bike. I did have it geared down a sprocket size, my knees are older. And replaced the broken funky French pedals. I had the funky French chain ring replaced with Campi in the 90s. And it still rolls

Thank YOU! for this great video about vintage, just bought last October 1, 2022 the Japan surplus bike vintage Bridgestone Roadman i love the old school😊

Fun video discussion, thank you! I was a pro racer in the 80's, racing on custom built to my specification steel frame/fork bikes Campagnolo Super Record, Suntour Superb Pro, Cinelli, Mavic/DT14g, Continental tubular, Modolo equipped. I am 64yo now, been riding 10,000+ miles a year for 54 years, don't use cars,....instead ride, walk, or paddle to all my destinations. 54 years of serious riding, first mountain bike rider in 1982, pro racer, touring, commuting. 1) Yes, todays bikes are ugly colors, but paint with clearcoat and smooth finish of any material is better than vintage. Now they are using matt finishes which is the ultimate in ugly. If I am paying 6000+ for a bike "I" get to choose whatever color I want! Obviously my custom steel bike was to my color spec also. I also raced on 3Rensho, ugliest bike I ever owned because of horrible paint finish. Todays finishes even on the cheap bikes I ride today are 10x better than vintage. I did buy a lugged Ciocc frame back in the 80's with red paint and chrome fork tips, seat and chain stays, to me this was the most beautiful road bike ever made, too bad the frame/fork was unusable due to its horrible alignment and build. I ride $400 bikes today that are more beautiful than the custom racing bikes I used in the 80's. The finish is just perfect, clear coat adds depth, and they are flaw free. No lugs on Aluminum, but the welds are also perfect (machine welds). 2) My bikes were hand crafted one at a time, store bought were not taken seriously, small manufacturers may have been hand building but they were hurried and not good racing bikes. 3) Not durable, I ride over 10,000 miles a year on my bikes, steel and aluminum have a lifespan, and why I always warn true cyclists to buy new. At about 25,000 miles I will break a frame, metal that flexes, fatigues, and there isn't anyway to delay it except with exceptional brazing and double butted extra heavy (thick walled) tubes. Fixing a broken frame is dangerous for two reasons: 1) finding a good frame brazing expert 2) the first break is a warning that the rest of the bike is weak and will fail soon. Just as one broken spoke indicates the end of life to a wheel. It is not safe to ride a bike for more than 25,000 miles, or after the first break. Carbon and titanium life...I don't know, never owned one, never will. 4) You bet! Racing bikes before indexing (1986) and carbon were far superior, and parts were standard and very easy to find. The ride of a well made steel road racing bike is fantastic, though this is almost entirely due to the steel fork and curved rake. Downtube shifting was faster and simpler for any skilled cyclist, indexing is insane and gets worse every year. Batteries? you got to be kidding, and indexing for 2x front is just stupid. I ride aluminum main frame with steel forks or suspension forks today, the bottom bracket flex in steel was never solved, sprinting, hard acceleration and out of saddle climbing with steel is aggravating, having so much flex the chain rubs on the front derailleur, steel is not fun for very strong cyclists. 5) Absolute stupid prices you are correct. I don't race, so I ride $400 Bikes Direct bikes today. I ride converted mountain bikes on the road today for strength and dependability, weight of a bike when not racing is not important. I modify these cheap bikes with..... flat bars with bar ends and aero-bars for the ultimate in hand and body positions, custom high strength wheels with Schwabe marathon+ tires 26x2 for the ultimate road tire, then add SPD's and close ratio cassette, and I'm done, under $1000.00 for the most dependable road bike I have ever ridden. Comfort comes from forks with lockout option, fat 2 inch high profile tires that roll fast, never flat, and never pinch a tube and flex and roll faster over non-perfect pavement. AND a bottom bracket with near zero flex! 6) Parts, you bet, much better standards in vintage, headsets, bottom brackets, shifters, number of cogs, quill stems, handlebar diameter, brakes, seat post, chains....nearly everything a standard!! When you bought a chain, or shifters, or crankset, or freewheel....never had to specify number of gears!!! all standard, all interchangeable between manufactures. Plus we could build our own gear ratios on freewheels, I was using a custom made 13-14-15-16-17-18 six speed freewheel, could not buy this but could build it....cassettes don't have a freehub or bearings or a pawl, but cost more that a freewheel....how? $100 - $200 for a cassette?? Carbon racing bikes that are 2x (TWO TIMES!!) the cost of a Honda Motocross motorcycle??? RIP OFF!!! $3000.00 for wheels, beyond RIP OFF!!! NOTE: In 1986 my racing mechanic put the first Shimano Dura-Ace index shifting on my race bike, it dropped chains off the front, and skipped gears on the rear under torque. It never functioned. Same for 2000 year Ultegra, never worked. These probably function today. but index shifting was the absolute worse thing to happen to bikes. Now with shortages, I see people not riding, can't get an 11 speed chain. Stupid. Here is the perfect gearing for 99% of all riders over all terrain: 22-32-42 chainrings and 11-12-13-14-16-19-23-28 cogs. A simple cheap 8 speed drivetrain that can go high into mountains and also flats with high speeds, 42x11 gear is as high as our racing gears!! (52x13 was our high) We don't need 1x's the next stupidity. And who on this earth can ride a 52x11 gear on the flats with proper technique and at least a cadence of 90??? answer= just a handful of cyclists on this planet.

What a well done video. And correct on every count. I love my 1981 Miyata 1000, I've upgraded the components and gave it a new paint job and it's good to go for a long time.

Just picked up a 76 paramount. Super excited to take it to the shop tomorrow for them to check out.

Another great vid , I liked the one about the campy components, I had the same post type campy derailier on my 1st road bike it worked pretty good , at some point it failed and I replaced the front and rear with the 1st shimano derailiers that came out can't remember the groupo name bit it was such a huge upgrade , the bike was a touring bike that I trying to make a race bike . I've never found the maker with lots of researching , it was from a manufacturer named Almacco the model was called Spinn . I was 17 and never looked back , really enjoy your videos and narreration skills , keep them coming

I still have my early 1970's era Peugeot.. It had been wrecked before I bought it for $15 in 1974 when I was 15 years old!! A good friend helped me fix it up and we rode them everywhere back in the day!! The bike went everywhere with me back when I was in the Navy and I have a lifetime of memories with it!! My old friend passed away a number of years ago, and he's always on my mind whenever I ride the old Peugeot. I have several lighter bikes now, but the old Peugeot is my hands down sentimental favorite bike to ride!! Over the years I've acquired several other old Peugeot's.... They just seem to follow me home.. plus an old Schwinn Paramount I picked up at a yard sale for $25!! They're all waiting for me to get around to bringing them back to life..... I almost wish I HADN'T seen this video!!! I was planning to sell off all the vintage bikes next Spring, keeping only my original Peugeot.... But after watching this video, I want to keep and ride them ALL!!! :)

All very cool and beautiful. I had Peugeot PX10 with fancy lugs. It was wonderful. I generally am put off by the “latest” thing in, well, I guess everything. However, I don’t miss friction shifters. Indexing could be considered “tried and true.” Moving the lever, hearing that snap and feeling your cadence change is always a satisfying tactile sensation.

Great video! I still have and ride my 1974 Takara racer and it performs like a champ. Looks great, performs great.

Thanks for this great video! I remember riding a friend's Schwinn Paramount, a race bike that had been crashed and fixed. He bought it for $60 back in the 60s. Never have ridden such a smooth bike since.

I have a 1993 Schwinn Paramount with original components. Lots of miles on it so I a few years back I replaced them with used Dura Ace 7800 and 32 Spoke DT Swiss Wheel set. I use it as my commuter/touring bike. I also have a modern 2011 Raleigh International Frame set constructed of Reynolds 853 steel with handcrafted chrome plated lugs and a chrome plated dual crown fork. I equipped it with Campy Athena with and polished aluminum cockpit components and topped it off with a Brooks B-17 saddle and Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheel set. Almost every time I ride either bike someone compliments them. Since I no longer race the advantages of a CF bike are very minimal and the disadvantages, including price, are substantial. The really weird thing about CF road bikes I learned from an Industry insider is that they sell more CF bikes if they charge crazy prices for them than if the charge moderate prices.

A good steel bike will still be on the road long after the latest wundercarbon bike is a wallhanger decoration in a hipster coffee bar.😀

1988 peugeot with 501, and a 1984 fuji sagres with 414, I've fell in love with restoring vintage bicycles

My 1979 Fugi Grand Tourer I bought new 44 yrs ago. Is still an amazing bike. Rides great and still looks new.

I still have my red Suteki Japanese racing bike that I bought at Sears. I think I paid somewhere between $400 and $500 for it at the time. It may not be as well known as a Fuji but I bet it rides at least just as good with its super smooth Shimano shifters. I take great care of it and its still near mint condition. I started riding it again this past summer and I am looking forward to warmer weather again.

Great presentation. The only point to add is geometry. A vintage raked fork displaces much of the road shock (can't say that about a strait carbon fork). The longer vintage chain stays allows for the rider to float between the wheels. The current geometries are more like riding a unicycle with handlebars. I like updating vintage bikes with hollow-tech cranksets, freehubs, and V-brakes. Plus the tires now are greatly improved. All possible on a vintage steel frame. You won't get me to buy or ride disc brakes or carbon anything. I still like friction shifters better than indexing any day. It makes me feels more apart of the bike.

Your title is perfect! I have an ALLEZ that rides like a dream. I just bought an old ELANCE, and even though it's chromoly not Detroit steel, she's a beaut with her rusty aluminum group set. I spent my last two nights cleaning her up with AWESOME and some rust-removing specialty items. It's time-consuming work that in and of itself is the reward. I live in a 1 bdrm, and now I have 4 bikes...and I want to get more, but OLD SCHOOL !!!!!! Great video, and thank you for making it! OLD BIKES MATTER!!!!! ;) Lastly, at exactly 1:12, I paused your video--that's a great shot with the shoes, bike, and you!!!! BUT THOSE SOCKS???!!! lol, you even went old school on the socks!!!!

In 1977, my mother got a red Schwinn Caliente for her 13th birthday. She rode it to school and around town for a few years, and it was put away in the early 80s. I found it buried in the attic last summer, and after a cleaning, tune-up and some new rubber it runs like a dream. Yes its heavy and the stock rim brakes aren't anything to write home about, but it shifts like butter, rides smooth and just feels like it was made with care. It is by far my favorite bike for a casual ride around town, and I can't wait till it warms up out here so I can get back on it again!

Steel is real! Quality never goes out of style.........Thanks for posting.

That Frejus is beautiful! you make a lot of very good points, I am still riding my 1987 BH Campagnolo (bought new by me), built in Spain, modest Columbus Aelle frame but given a very decent paint job, and equipped with a Triomphe groupset, sure shes developed some minor Patina over the years and have changed minor parts here and there, but she still looks well -- "sexy" shes still all Vintage Campagnolo with some Zues here & there, we have done lots of miles and grown old together , touch wood never dropped her, and you can always refurb / overhaul , whatever ,vintage Campanolo one last time.

The San Rensho was late to the game but I saw one and it’s amazing angles and I drooled back in the 80’s

I really enjoyed this video. Thanks!

I agree 100% with you... I not long ago set out a goal to ride 50 miles in a day, I rode 16 on my beach cruiser before it broke down, so I walked down the street to find a 1970's era Gitane Grand Sport Deluxe for sale for 60 dollars, plus it was a California bike so basically 0 rust... I ended up riding the last 34 miles on it without even touching a thing, it needs some TLC but either way I am keeping it forever.

I have a 1986 steel Nishiki and a 2021 carbon Orbea (both used), I love both for the purposes they serve and I have literally never had any of the problems with modern bikes you speak of. Both have their strengths and limitations. The best bike out there is the bike you're on and the bike you love. I have both because I love both, both are a joy to service and both have a place in my day to day use. Its easy enough to make a video shooting holes in investment one over the other, regardless of which you're partial to.

My 1967 Raleigh Grand Prix went into semi-retirement in 1987 when I bought my Raleigh Rocky III Mountain bike. This bike just recently received a “ Tune up” new brake pads & cables, gear cables, new chain & foam hand grips … & Tires with tubes. LOL Rides like a dream. Maybe I’ll do a restoration on the 1967 ???

My two favorite bikes ever: 80's Miyata Professional. Suntour Surberbe Pro components / hubs. Mavic MA2 / MA3 rims. I rode as a messenger ( '98 - 2001`). Doorings, accidents and put around 60,000 miles on it. Smooth and tough as nails. Continued as a touring bike until it broke in 2011 from water getting into down tube lug. 1989 Bridgestone RB-1. 105 hubs/components. Later on found an Ultegra Crank. 23 x 13 6 speed. Friction bar end shifters. Campagnolo Moskova Rims ( that still have to go out of true ). Did the Lifecycle/AIDS ride a few years back from SF to LA. Didn't miss a beat. Still have this one and its still the most comfortable/responsive bike I've been on.

Good points here. The most important is you can get a GREAT used bike at the same or less cost as a just “okay” new one. The point on craftsmanship is also very true. There is nothing wrong with the function of friction shifters. I greatly prefer disc brakes on mountain bikes. I have never had a mountain bike with rim brakes or a road bike, so I can’t comment on those situations.

I'm more of a runner than a cyclist but I can appreciate the beauty. Plus I'm old so of course everything was better back in the day.

That red bike with the yellow highlights looks fantastic! I used to ride a vintage Raleigh bike with the shifters on the down tube…you yet used to it. Stiffen the trunk and drop the hand. You can also fine tune the position of the derailleur too!

Nice video. Have quite a few 80s bikes I've collected over time and its great taking them out. 3 I've converted to fixies and 3 others I've kept original. 2 of them being late 80s Merckx that are like you say, works of art. A quality steel frame has a ride quality that is unique.

This is why I love my '92 Bridgestone RB-1 and MB-2. I bought them new and have never thought about getting a newer bike.

In 1975 I bought a Motobecane Grand Record, Reynolds 531 silver with black and gold pin striping and had a Campy Record groupset with pedals and bars put on it a few years later. Large frame so it's a bit flexy but that makes it comfortable. Going to be fifty years old in a couple of years. Cost $350 for the bike and just under $1000 for the Campy upgrade. It's been used as just a road bike. It has a Blackburn rack on it to carry shoes and beer.

Niiiice video and voice work. Very convincing. Im giving up the couch and getting back on a vintage racer.

I support your suggestion to go with a custom frame builder because that's exactly what I did. After owning a hand full of carbon bikes I saw that these things were being made with proprietary parts and designs and I did not want that, I also did not want to own carbon anymore. I ended up with a really light weight titanium frame and I've built it using only traditional titanium and aluminum components and parts. The bike still came out at 18 lbs. which allows me to climb pretty darn well. My first bike was a ROSS Gran Tour from around 1973 that I bought in a bike shop brand new and it lasted me 22 years but I got in to mountainbiking and stopped riding it. I'm back into road biking now and I'm happy I made the move to buy custom made frame from a guy here in the US. He is definitely a master and the bike just seems like the best bike I've ever ridden. Thanks for the video your points are spot on and the truth as well.

In 1985 I spent $1650 for a De Rosa with the best Campagnolo Record component group. At the time, it was hard to spend more on a steel frame bike. I still ride it among other bikes I have. Longer wheelbase and it's steel....steel is pretty sweet.

I can't yet afford expensive Vintage European bikes, but my bike stable does take advantage of the mid-level Japanese & Taiwanese offerings from the mid 80s and early 90s. My Schwinn 86 Prelude (w/Columbus tubing) has to be my favorite bike of all time. I switched it from 27" rims to 700c and it has shimanos Tricolor Groupo! I wish big companies like Shimano and Columbus re-released older groupsets for those of us reusing these classic bikes!

I have a Benotto track bike, that I cannot part with, though I do not race any more. My custom 1974 Bob Jackson touring frame has all the parts stripped, but waits. Some of us as we get older cannot fit the frame as flexibility and spine shrinking make a frame too big. Waaa. I still ride steel by way of a Surly Moonlander fatbike and a 1987 Miyata 610. Many boxes of parts from previous generations sit idle, for now. Now the wheels which I built myself from 48 years ago until now, cassettes and 13-18 straight blocks I certainly cannot push any more. Your video takes me down memory lane. Thanks

Great job, agree on so many points. I have ridden for 45years and have latest technology equipment but still end up enjoying a late 80s colnago for its incredible ride quality.

I miss my 1961 Rotrax. When I got bar-end shifters, changing gear was almost as easy as with modern shifters. I only had 2x5 gears, whereas now I have 2x11, but I only use 7 of them. That old steel bike felt like it was a part of my body.

2:23 wow that’s a bad ass classic Jersey! CINZANO cycling team! Whew! Awesome 👍

Great input! Those bikes are beautiful as well! Just subscribed

Great video Just bought an early 80s vintage Peugeot road bike, arriving Tuesday 😊

Great video. Like others here, I also rode a Gitane back in the 1970s. Regrettably, long since gone. While I like the points made in the video, riders should not overlook that some carbon bikes are now also "vintage." A few days ago I picked up a 1995 Trek OCLV 5000 (the only year this model was painted green, as far as I know) for about $200. The previous owner had taken great care of it. This bike rides great and is a blast. Very simple components, relatively speaking. For my purposes, this purchase was money well spent over high-priced "modern" bikes. My next purchase will be a vintage steel bike. Everyone, please enjoy your riding, whatever your preferences.

One other pro for the friction team I don't hear too many people bring up, is ease of groupset replacing and mixing and matching. Since friction doesn't care about cable pull ratio's or having perfect alignment you can upgrade components or swap brands without much trouble other than just putting on the new parts. You don't even need to undo your cockpit depending on location of shifters. Even the argument against downtube/stem shifters can be fixed with Gevenalle "Frifter" Friction Brifters. Brake levers that let you relocate your DT shifters to the hoods. While I can't say how they ride, they do offer the same simplicity and reliability of friction without removing your hands.

Man, I couldn't agree more with these views! Riding an early 80's Benotto with the first Shimano SIS-Ultegra group set and an early 90's Batavus, totaly fitted out with Campagnolo Mirage, I should know what I'm talking about ... these bikes just can't go wrong and deliver a great ride every damn time while still looking beautiful! The Benotto is Colombus steel tubed and the Batavus is Reynolds 501. Steel is real, man!! Oh, and you forgot to mention that it is so much fun working on them to keep them in good shape; it's really fulfilling when you got them all tuned out and ready for a ride ... I love my steel babie's!

My ‘74 Paramount is as lovely as the day the ladies finished brazing the frame. Handles well, very forgiving. It can commute during the week, and on the weekend the fenders are removed, and the wheels changed-out and it’s ready for a club ride or an ABLA, or a LAW race. Ahhh… the good old days.

Still been riding my 2000 steel 853 Lemond Buenos Aires... just in 2007 I stripped it to the frame...and put a new carbon Easton EC90 fork and Dura Ace components... a titanium Colnago seat post...with a new seat...a carbon handle bar...a carbon stem .. left the original wheels Rolf Vector I love it.... Lemond frame is great 👍

I completely agree. I've had my 1989 Paramount OS (built in Waterford) since I bought it new with a custom blue smoke paint job, and outfitted it with mix of Suntour Superbe Pro, Mavic, and Specialized components. I'll never sell it.

One of my five rides is a Ron Kitching frame cs 1972 with all Campy parts except for the crankset, which I couldn't afford 45 years ago. When I rebuilt the bike as a hybrid/ city bike 5 years ago I installed a city bar, my Brooks B17 which I never liked on my Surly LHT, but also the original Universal Super 68 short drop calipers that were the pros' choice before Campy introduced their game changing side pull in the early 70s. Having lots of parts around from the era when I was racing (late '70s) usually makes repair straightforward. Here is my 50+ years experience distilled to an aphorism: a vintage bike is a simple, precision machine, that anybody can understand. A modern bike is a complicated, precision machine that only specialists can understand.

I still ride my 1980s Raleigh steel bike, I changed pedals for cleats though works great. I agree carbon bikes still use a chain and sprockets. Great video, thanks for making it.

I bought a 20 year old racing bike last year during lockdown. I tried modern bikes with a similar fit out but they just didn't compare. That ultegra 6000 series is just so much better than the plastic replacements on bikes now. I thought it was a steel bike because the welds were so beautiful but it is a well made aluminum beauty.

Wow, what goes around comes back! Starting to hear fond remembrances of friction down tube shifters and lugged steel frames. I got into cycle in mid life crisis 40 years ago. The best could be had for around $1500. In '83 or '84, Gita started importing DeRosa, one frame model, the Professional, to address the booming criterium market in the US. It was the last bike Eddy Merckx rode and copied with his own brand, so, yeah, good enough for me! It's Columbus SL, SLX seat tube on mine, chromed flat fork crown, chromed right chain stay and dropouts, steep angles, 74-75 degrees. Riding it is Italian opera. It does everything you ask faithfully, so well, I've crashed it several times, fortunately at slow speeds under 10 mph! I think they call it over steer, or in Italian operas, "flighty." It was geared 53-42, 13-21, meant to ride hard. The harder you rode the more solid it felt. I'll never forget how stabile it was descending Mt. Wilson, CA, at 48 mph, despite the steep head angle. Its full Campy Super Record, maintainable with simple tools in a home work stand. Sprayed some lube inside the frame tubes when overhauling the threaded cup and cone BB, and no rust over 70.000 miles. Threaded BBs are coming back after press fits too often came loose. There's nothing stronger than a copper brazed investment cast steel lug, so in a crash steel bends along the tubes away from the joints. Most of the time, a steel frame builder can bend chromium molybdenum tubing back into shape. Crashed the commuter once, bent the fork, and dimpled the top tube and down tube. The frame builder bent it all back into proper geometry and I'm still depending on it 30 years later. The tubing is extremely dense and amazingly strong. Has anyone tried to bend a CRMO tube? You'll see how strong! Reynolds 531 used manganese molybdenum. Manganese was touted to be more "resilient" and more comfortable for long distance "touring" bikes. I've worked in 4 bikes shops in the last 30 years and had many opportunities to snag the latest tech, but declined every time. What I had was better in every way riding in the real world. It was "overbuilt," worked superbly well, and lasted forever. Have been riding the commuter bike with investment cast lugs, Columbus SLX seat and down tube, SP chain stays, SP being a little stouter than SL, and SL seat stays. I put fenders and rack on it, ridden it at least 75,000 miles over 35 years, and the Campy Record chromed steel headset and BB and "butter knife" Campy down tube shifters might last another 75,000 miles. Re-spoked aluminum rims a couple of times onto the tried and true Campy cup and cone hubs on both bikes and wheels are good for another 40,000 miles. Well tensioned 36 spoke wheels climb like bandits, survive the occasional spill and stay true forever. DT stainless steel spokes are still available but haven't had to replace any of them. Italian shoe maker Marresi makes an old fashioned leather shoe that fits neatly into toe clips and doesn't rub the right chain stay, but on the commuter I can ride on errands with narrow walking shoes. Slotted cleats now available with Look drillings, are simple to clean up: just take a key and scrape the dirt out of the slot. When Look introduced their clipless system, racers balked at how it took away the feeling of being firmly connected to the cranks, especially sprinting. So makers stiffened up the shoes and put velcro straps around the uppers, but they still felt "soft," so makers then widened the platform back to the width of the old gossamer "rat trap" cages. Some Keirin racers still use toe clips and straps. Toe straps don't come loose. The shoes don't have to be especially stiff because the feet push down on the expansive pedal cage centered over the axle. The clip and strap hold the foot on the pedal when unweighting the upstroke. So if you ride outside of highly competitive club rides or racing, steel is real. The old stuff works great. Simplicity has its rewards. To me, that's what cycling is all about. Finally, these latest tech gravel bikes weigh a pound or two more than the old 22 and 24 pound steel bikes above, and clearance for 28 mm tires is where its at on paved roads. Keep it up, man! Fascinating subject! Disk brakes, anyone? Electronic shifting on 12 cog clusters and one chain ring? Gimme a break.

I have both a Colnago Super and a Trek 5500 OCLV 120 and both are beautiful bikes with great handling. The Trek is made of carbon, but it looks really beautiful with its very unusual shape and a mix of 9-speed DA 7700 with 7400 brakes at only 7.3 kg, it is also incredibly fast.

I bought a steel framed racer over 25 years ago. It's my go to daily rider as well as racing up the hills. I do have two carbon bikes, but I don't love them like my old school bike. Shimano 105 groupset and brakes and a click shift on the gear changes. It cost me second hand $15. Love it.

I have a vintage 80s-era DeRosa with a tri-color paint scheme that is beautiful and still provides a great platform for performance and fitness. I am proud to ride it and even display it.

Its extremely helpful to buy a vintage ENGLISH bicycle, since the english / UK standards ALL became the ISO standards : 27.2 seatposts, ISO headsets, ISO bottom brackets, ISO freewheels, it's why I collect Raleigh/Carlton bikes, to a great extent ... The only thing that is NOT fully compatible is the modorn Shimano SIS (1984+) derailleur hanger, they are FARTHER from the rear axle than traditional campagnolo derailleur hangers. This means that if you mount a modern Shimano Indexing derailleur on a vintage campagnolo (or Huret or Simplex or Suntour) derailleur hanger, you may encounter cases where the jockey wheels hit the freewheel in the lowest gear.

As an old guy age 69 I wish I still had in my possession the bikes I owned in the 60’s-80’s instead of discarding them for either a pittance or just tossed them aside. Also I miss the great cars( didn’t know it at the time) like the old classy Pontiacs , Oldsmobiles, Buicks and Chevys that my dad traded in for a few hundred bucks when he bought a new car. The ‘65 Bonneville convertible, Olds 442, fishtail Buick Riviera. Man would I love to own those now!

I like how you explained that. I like your appreciation for the older bikes. I have that same appreciation for muscle bikes of the 60's and 70's and of course the cars that inspired them.

I had a Gitane, built on Reynolds 531 tubing with chrome touches. Sold it to a friend who totaled it in a major crash that destroyed EVERYTHING, from the handlebars to both wheel rims. But like something from out of space, the frame remained unscathed. Upon very close inspection, the fork showed the slightest sign of a bend, not even a 1/4 inch if that. I bought it back and rebuilt it, and took it on tour across Europe, covering about 2000 miles, through the French Alps and all kinds of terrain. I would never trust a new, carbon composite frame, no matter what the price. Vintage 531 is time (and crash) tested. And looks beautiful, double-butted tubing, breathtaking craftsmanship. Nice video!

I was in the bike business from the fall of '72 to the early 1980s and agree 100%. To me, the main artistic attraction of bicycles is the fact that the entire structure and all mechanical components are exposed to view, and the classic builders like Colnago, Masi, Frejus, Holdsworth, Jack Taylor and others took full advantage of this fact. Comparing classic machines to modern CF CAD designed bikes is like comparing steam locomotives to diesels. EDIT: Life in Black and White is the perfect music for this video.

One thing we have lost is those beautiful steel forks. With disc brakes the fork has to be beefy because of the torque exerted across the length of the fork leg. This is the secret of the steel ride feel; it's not compliance in the frame, it's the fork. On the flip side, tires were impractically narrow because in the days before power meters people thought that was actually faster. So what you really want is a vintage *touring* bike, which unlike its racing sibling is completely suitable for its original purpose today and has clearance for 35mm tires.

Nice SanRensho wish I had a road bike like that. My fixed gear bike is similar but I need a geared bike like that for rainy days, tired of my hybrid in the rain.

Ive found myself wishing I'd held on to my two peugoets, a 70s equipe and an 80s elan. The latter had an extra large frame (too big for me) so I put northumbrian style handlebars on with thumb shifters, mudguards and a ratrap rack. Wonderful commuter and I lugged so much stuff with it - used to even bungee the shopping trolley on the back. I prefer thumb shifters to indexed gears. Very straightforward to maintain, hardly ever needed to a change a chain. 12 gears was plenty. Those bikes are not in the same class as the bikes in the video but they were beautiful and functional. They were kept outside and the frames coped well.

Agreed totally. I'd add that even a badly damaged alloy steel frame can have new tubes brazed in by a skilled framebuilder, and repainted with reproduction decals to be as good as new. Stripped bottom bracket threads? These can be reamed out, new steel brazed in, and the threads recut. I've owned a carbon fibre frame bike, but my road bikes built from Reynolds 531 butted tubing are in another league - they feel much livelier on the road. No contest, steel is real - support the craftsmen who build these wonderful frames!

I have a mid 80s Bridgestone racing bike and let me tell you…I LOVE IT. The only other bike that compared was my trek 1000

I have a Sirrus 1990 so comfortable....clean and simple bike,..great video.

I love riding my retro bike. I have an 80s Raleigh Ace as my commuter. I love using the downtube shifters. When i repaired her i had to source a new freewheel which was french threaded. I have a 90s bike with the original 7 speed shimano 105 (its got a shiny chainring) and a carbon fork 🤩.

Great video, thanks! The biggest downside to vintage bikes for me are the rim brakes, since I've become spoiled with disc brakes. Otherwise I couldn't agree more.

That Frejus must be over 50 years old but it still looks great. That will never happen with carbon fiber.

I bought a basic Bianchi Trofeo back in the mid 1990s. I’ve put thousands of miles on it since, and with basic periodic tuneups, the old steel bike still runs just fine. I have a more recent carbon fiber Pinarello Gan as well which I ride every day. I really enjoy the faster rides on the newer bike, but I roll the old one out once in a while for a leisurely ride as well. Old bikes are great. Long live old bikes.

still running my 1996 wheeler proline 4880. light rides well and replaced the old shocks with pilot c's 20 years ago - all still going strong. the grip shift handle rubbers are the hardest part to find now