Me too!!!

Same, the big one especially is looking very promising. I'm glad they're going into bigger pots. Hopefully they'll thicken up 😁

Fingers crossed!

How do they graft, are they fusing together? I want to know more!!!! Thanks!!

@@TheBonsaiZone They were both pretty well exactly the same size, I cut a slice off each down one side about 100mm long from the trunk into the roots I then made sure they where lined up perfectly and bound them together as tight as I could. I did it in mid summer and left them bound until spring, they were well and truly fused together. I've only had one cutting successfully graft onto it so far, next I'll try more seedlings.

@@icariumrage3137 Thanks!

I was in my local garden centre the other day and saw a member of staff "watering" the plants. Except she wasn't, she had a big bucket of water and literally just dipped the pot in. That was the mechanism for watering that they used :O

I hope all our trees do well!!

Mine went in dormancy by default, so I had to stop wattering and let them rest

I hope it does well this year!!!

Thanks Filipe!!!

It might be the high humidity in the plant room that keeps the smaller Baobab trees alive without any watering? Maybe also the cooler temperatures in the plant room, 15 to 25 C? I had one of my Desert Rose go soft over the winter, I was giving it no water, but one tree out of the whole forest just went limp and died.

@@TheBonsaiZone must be humidity, I will have to pay closer attention moving forward, thanks Nigel!

Lol, edible bonsai, yummy!

I hope they grow well this year!!!

Nice Jakob, my trees seem to have different growth rates too, they are doing well this year, I'm hoping some day they get the multi leaf clusters, a sign of a mature tree!!! I may save the new seeds for next summer, that way they will get some really good heat and a long growing season before winter hits!!! Have a great trip!!!!

Thanks so much, great information!!!!

I did not water mine at all, as Nigel did, and I kept them inside, because in Europe winters get very cold. Now they are waking up from dormancy, so it was the right thing not to water them

Thanks so much, great to know!!!

I've seen a small one, about twice my height, but never a giant!

Yes eventually!!! A big, big cut~!!

Yes, these trees are doing really well, I have three on the go and the trunk is close to 25 mm thick or 1 inch!

So cool, can't wait to see an update! 😊

Too cliche?

The tree will start to leaf out all by it's self each spring, then you can start to water it once again. It's not recommended to water the tree when it has no leaves. The Baobab will take the cooler weather, but I would try and keep it above 15 C if you can!

@@TheBonsaiZone Thank you very much for clarification :) Also I wonder how long I have to hold back water, after cutting the roots ?

@@Justme0495 I would think at least two weeks, this should give the roots time to heal. The trees are best repotted early spring just before the leaves come out, keep them dry until the roots have healed.

@@TheBonsaiZone Thank you very much for your advice! :)

🍪

@@Stettafire Where’s my oatmeal raisin cookie?

​@@mattbrennan647 🍪🌾🍇 Close enough? 🤣

🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗

Yes, maybe for a full size tree, but not for bonsai!!

@@TheBonsaiZone it is not as bad for bonsai as you think. You just have to treat them like baobabs. C. Pentandra needs a dry season. Especially in low light conditions in winter. Ceiba belongs to the same family as the baobab

@@jarosawdamianek8289 Thanks, I'll keep working on my only one left!!

The hardy trees should be fine with a greenhouse as protection, it will save the trees from the drying wind and the mice and rabbits. You may have to water them on the warmer days in winter, but the hardy trees should be fine at those cold temperatures!

Lots of things to consider here. First, doesn't Idaho have lots of sunny days in winter? That would contribute a lot of solar heat. Probably not enough to prevent freezing but maybe enough to raise the temp from zone 5 up to zone 6. The trick is to retain as much heat as possible, so I would line your greenhouse with bubble wrap.That will let the warm sunlight in, and insulate the house to keep the heat from passing through the plastic walls and ceiling. Also, use greenhouse or packing tape to seal off any gaps in the plastic liner. A small draft will undo the effect of your insulation in just an hour or two. Second, make as many of the surfaces as possible matte black. Any kind of light striking the black surfaces will be absorbed and stored as heat. Place paint cans, full of water and painted black or jugs of water dyed black between and behind your trees. A rack of such cans or jugs against the north wall will store an amazing amount of heat. Next to solid plates of steel, water stores heat better than anything. This stored heat will prevent the temperature from dropping too fast at night or on cloudy days. Get yourself a maximum-minimum thermometer and check it often, especially during the first winter. For your first year, keep only trees proven hardy outdoors in your area in the greenhouse.Once you know how cold your greenhouse gets, you can perhaps extend the range of trees you can keep. another thing you need to be aware of is to not let your green house get too warm. You want your bonsai to stay dormant all winter, so temperatures more than a couple degrees above freezing are undesirable. One thing I have read is that two things are major causes of winter kill. One is wind, and the other is the soil drying out. Even frozen water can evaporate from your soil, even in subzero temperatures. It's called sublimation, so keep an eye on your trees and keep them hydrated. Just moist, not saturated, the roots still need to breathe.

Comprehensive!

@@TheBonsaiZone I have a thoweil hinoki cypress, and a Japanese juniper or a dwarf Japanese juniper (I forgot the name of it). Will those be ok?

@@emmitstewart1921 but what about the summer time and I made my greenhouse black? What about the blazing hot and dry summers