Ah, shucks. Thank you. I hope it helps anyone who needs to do this adjustment.

Thank you very much!

Oh, I didn’t realize that- I’m glad I put that in too then. It’s those little (and not so little) steps that can make a difference.

This is what I love to hear. Thank you. If you have any questions while altering the top just pop them in here.

Yes. Thank you. It could save a lot of heartache if you did this. Sorry I left that out. Oops 😬

Thank you so much. I think most of us need to alter ready-to-wear. We just try to avoid it 😆

Great to hear, thanks. I like looking how ready to wear is constructed. Not always the same as sewing patterns instruct.

Thanks. I appreciate your feedback. I’m a visual learner so I really try to show the steps. But the language is important too.

thank you, very much

I hope it helps you get a great fit. If you have any questions as you go along just pop them in here.

Thanks, I’m glad I could help you fix your dress. Let me know if you have any questions along the way

I do put it on inside out sometimes. I read somewhere to pin clothes when they are right side out so I’m trying that now. Honestly, I can’t tell a difference- not yet at least. You’re right about it being easier because less steps

I do the same great time saver

I thought of the inside out thing, but one breast is much larger so it would be wonky on me.

I've been sewing clothing and upholstery for about 60 years. My mother taught me to always pin right side out because each side is different. True for clothing and uupholstery. Fit will always be right the first time!

I think alterations are complicated, I won't attempt...😮

that's great to hear. Thanks

The slipstitch really is a great stitch. I've had to open up the lining of a winter coat to repair a seam and used the slip stitch to close the hole in the lining when I was done - can't even tell.

The burrito method is helpful. You’ll use it a lot with sleeveless garments

Ha! The dress is the way I lure more folks into sewing 😄 I bought the dress last summer online at Boden.com. They always have the best prints (my opinion, of course). Learning the basics of sewing isn't hard at all, and you can take it as far as you want. I recommend learning a bit just to fix things like buttons & rips and do simple alterations (hence the videos ;-) Thanks for watching and the comment, made me smile.

Thank you. I try to be clear and concise in explaining the "how-to". Alterations - all of them- seem harder than they actually turn out to be - so, you got this!

thanks for watching the video

Yay!

Thank you

Thanks!

Thanks - everything needs a pocket ;-)

I’m glad the video is going to help you do your alteration. I bought the dress from Boden. They are my weakness. They almost always have nice prints and I love prints

It is true that it is hard to find clothes the way you want them to fit! Good point is the largest part of your body is the size to get because you can always alter the rest! Thank you. That is beautiful dress!

yes, it's the best thing about sewing - making clothes that fit (or look) how You want them to.

Especially if one is asymmetrical.@@TheDailySew

thank you

Yes, sometimes I do it inside out too.

thank you

thank you very much. Alterations is a skill - much more to it than people realize.

thank you very much!

Thanks - I do try to make them organized & to the point. Sometimes I do a better job than others ;-)

thank you for watching

It’s used in for constructing a few garments. Sleeveless garments in particular. But also garments with shoulder yokes. It looks trickier than it is.

And this method can work on other seams too if your dresses have princess seams or center front and center back - Although you don't want to throw the dress off balance by only taking in one side sometimes where you need to take in is asymmetrical. For example, a friend has a narrow rib cage and a large bust. So she takes in from the back more than from the front. So sometimes you have to tweak the rules a bit. Also, be careful not to "overfit". Pin out the excess, then sit, move, and raise your arms, all that stuff to be sure your garment lets you do that. When you like the look and can move, then sew it ;-)

Congratulations on the weight loss!

thanks. I hope this helps you get a good fit

Thank you for watching. It’s really nice having your clothes fit you like you want them to. Now you can. 😉

That’s a pretty spendy dress to have to alter. $160!

@@babadeedee214 I hear you! But that’s the shape of my body. I have to alter most dresses if I want them to fit right.

That’s smart of you to just add the cost of the tailoring to the garment when you’re planning a purchase. But, you’re right that if you did the alterations yourself you will save some money (enough to buy more clothes 😉) just don’t let other people get you to do their alterations. Keep it a secret that you know how

thank you

Yay! Thanks for watching

I hope you enjoy teaching. I think the main thing you need is just remembering what it's like to be a complete beginner well, and a knowledge of what you're going to teach ;-)

thank you

Absolutely

So many interesting things here; a bandana dress (going to google that next) and a 1929 Singer machine. Plus, figuring out your own lining pattern. That's always the fun but challenging part. I'm sure you'll have success with it.

T y, I'm about to give it a try. Got the bandannas out yesterday.@@TheDailySew

Yay - that's great to hear - thanks for watching

thanks

Thanks and I hear you on the cost. Hemming and altering take time which is why the professionals charge what they do (ok, and skill/knowledge. It takes that too) But if you have patience and perseverance (and I also like a good audiobook), you'll get through your stack of hemming projects. So hang in there. The next alteration video I'm working on is taking in a dress when it's too full in the lower half. (wish me luck 😉)

So glad I found your video. I have lost weight-hooray! Unfortunately, none of my clothes fit anymore and I do not want to buy a new wardrobe. Now I will be able to wear my favorites until I get new clothing.

@@laurajones338 yes! I really like when we can get more wear out of our clothes - especially our favorite clothes

Thanks

Second hand is a great way to shop. And knowing some simple alteration skills makes a huge difference. Actually, who am I kidding, I need alteration skills buying new clothes too. glad I could help get you started

thank you

thanks

Thank you - I'm so glad you found the video helpful and I appreciate the constructive feedback (It helps). If you still want to know, I have a video on how to understitch: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nNuKe9l-0cfceKM.htmlsi=vTckwbom65zIEFsY

That’s a great find. If this technique isn’t what you need check out my blog post on adjustments for when the armholes are too large thedailysew.com/blog/2016/01/how-to-adjust-the-bodice-and-sleeve-pattern-when-armholes-are-too-large/

Thanks. I have been thinking about how to alter clothing for a small/zero chest. I am wondering about taking out the side seam under the arms, and a few inches of the sleeve seam (along the length of the sleeve) then taking the bulk out there. More fabric would come out of the front than the back piece to keep the side seam on the side. But this way you don’t mess with the front closure (buttons or zipper). I have to try it but I think that’s the way to go. Thanks for the comment. Got me thinking again.

The jumper is sleeveless. The contour of the shoulder straps have a seam on top which attaches the front bodice to the back bodice straps. I’m thinking the contour of both straps needs to be cut a little more narrow on the outer edges of the strap. You gave exceptional info about the tapering down to zero at the waist seam so the pockets aren’t affected. The adjustment on a dress sleeve I would think also depends on the style of sleeve. I continue to hear many women lament about so few clothing options for small/zero bust still! What you do has made a difference for me & I sincerely appreciate you.

@@mgs783 I’m so glad you can alter your jumper. You’re right, not all styles are going to be easy to alter (if at all). And thanks- I enjoy talking about clothes 🤓

🤗 thanks so much

Thanks

You totally can do this yourself 😊

Thank you

Thank you. Most of us need to alter our garments. You are not alone

thank you

thanks

It’s very handy. 😁

Ha! Genetics (and a chronic health issue)

Part of the beauty of sewing and alterations is making clothes that fit the body you have, in a way that suits how you want to wear them. Yeah... some bodies are easier to design and sew for than others, but ultimately, once you have a bodice block that fits your body and your aesthetic preferences... You're much freer from the expectations of current styles and the tyrany of being asked to fit into what's convenient for manufacturers. Your body is adequate as it is.

@@lynn858 100% totally agree. I really like how you said it as well.

Glad you found it (any of it) helpful.

Yes, it is or for someone who is fearless 😉. But it’s all straight stitching. It probably takes more patience than sewing skills

The trick is to add extra room where you need it. Is it the front only then add to the center front seam and maybe to the side seam above the hip only on the front pattern piece. If you are nicely round you would add extra to all 4 pieces (2 backs and 2 fronts) First, find out how much extra room you need. Measure the front and back pant pattern pieces (leaving out seam allowance and darts or pleats) 3" down from the waist seam (approximately). Add the measurements together. Double this. This number is what the pants are all the way around as drafted. Now measure yourself and compare. You want the pattern to be at least your measurement plus 1 to 1 1/2 " of ease (so you can sit). Subtract the pattern measurement from your measurement plus 1-1.5" ease. This is how much you need to add to the pattern. Second, where do you need to add extra room? All over? divide the amount you need to add by 4 and add that to both front and back side seams. Or do you need it mostly in the belly area? If you need 3" or less then divide your amount by 2 and that to the front. If you need more than 3" some will be added to the front and some will be added to the back. (You can add more to the front) To add room use the slash and spread technique. Draw a line parallel to the grain line about 3" away from center front. (if there is a dart(s) on the pattern draw the line through the dart closest to the center front) cut on the line from the waist to about 1/4" above the hem. put some paper under the pattern. Spread the top of the pants open until you have the amount you need (Remember this is half if you need 3" or less) Tape the pattern down to the paper. Try to keep the grainline in its original position. I'll make a video about this soon, so keep your eyes open and thank you for the video idea ;-)

Hi, I heartily thank you for your prompt reply and appreciated that you briefed in detail. I will definitely try this time according to your instructions. My problem is only on Front part, because of the belly. I’m glad that you will be soon uploading the video. Thanks once again and God bless you, Bye for now 🇨🇦

I’m really happy that it was. Thanks for letting me know and congratulations 🎉

Yes, Washed and lined dried because that's how I launder it. An excellent point that I should have mentioned.

Me too. I like clothing, (a lot) so I buy pieces too but it’s so nice to have a garment that fits you how you want it to (and how it should). Some folks skip fitting when they sew and yet, here’s the perfect opportunity to get the fit right.

I ordered it through Boden in spring 2022 so if they still have it it will be in their sale section (which is even better).

Thanks for subscribing 💛 A center back zipper will definitely make it easier to take in everything at the sides. However, there might be a problem above the underarm seam when you resize the dress drastically. And that is above the side seam the dress could be too big. A sleeveless dress may not show the excess as much as a dress with a sleeve and shoulder seam. Pin in the sides of the dress and check how the upper bodice looks, not just how the body of the dress looks.

Thanks so much for your reply, I appreciate it very much! 💖 @@TheDailySew

If your taking in enough you can totally do that. And iron your new seam allowance flat after pinking the excess off. I believe on this dress I had to take it out because of where it intersected the waist seam. I couldn’t have sewn a neat seam.

Safety Pins are definitely the smart way to mark for a fitting.

Sure - I just have to find a dress to use as an example. It is a little tricky if you have pockets, plus opening up the waist seam (if there is one) where you are taking it in. Sort of like the bodice reduction but upside down ;-). I'm on it.

A sleeve can be taking in slightly at the seam that goes from under the arm to the bottom of the sleeve. Use the same method of pinning out the excess and then measuring how much and where your start and end points are. Some sleeve styles are just puffy. That fullness comes from the sleeve cap (top of sleeve) and you can’t make it a skinny sleeve by just tapering in the sleeve seam. So pin out the bagginess and see if makes much difference. You’ll know then if you can taper that particular style sleeve.

Boden made the dress. Their clothing is always well made and they usually have fun prints.

yes, this can be done. It might be a little tricky for me to explain only with words but here goes: Pin out the excess on both sides as in the video except you are not pinching evenly from front and back. You're just pinching out excess where it is. When you're done look in the mirror with a critical eye for the fit. Does either side look better than the other? (if you prefer one to the other you can just measure the favorited side (the next few steps) and use those measurements for both sides - unless you are noticeably asymmetrical then ignore that and measure both sides) Leave the pins in and take off the dress. Have a good look then measure what you pinched out. Notice how far down from the underarm seam you started to pinch out the side seam. Write this down. Where did you pinched out the most fabric? Write this down. How far down the side seam did you stop pinching out excess fabric? Write that down. Then measure the other side and compare. You can blend these reference points together. Example: The right side starts 1" down from the underarm seam. The left side starts 3/4" down. You could split the difference and start them both at 7/8" down or pick one to use for both sides. Same for where you pinched out the most and where you stopped. Then measure how much you pinched out at the place you pinched out the most. For example: You may see you pinched out 1/8 from the front and 3/4 of the back on the right side and on the left you pinched out only 1/2" of the back and a minuscule amount from the front. (You'll know from the side seam what you pinched from the back and front) Unless you know you are noticeably asymmetric (one high hip, curving spine, dropped shoulder) add the amounts you took out from the back together. So 3/4" + 1/2" = 1,1/4". Ignore the tiny amounts from the front because, as you said, the front fits as it is. Divide that total in 2 1,1/4" /2 = 5/8" You will unpick the side seams where you pinned and a little beyond. Then repin the seams following your notes. You'll be shifting in the back pieces so it will not line up with the edge of the front piece. Using the example above; at the point you started pinching out the back the edge of the front and back will match. Then you will measure down to where you pinched out the most. There you will move the back piece in so that it sticks out 5/8" from the edge of the front. Where you stopped pinching, the edges will again line up. Now you need to pin the back to the front (where it's open) so it smoothly goes from 0 to the deepest point to 0 again. If the total length of all of this is over 7", or if you feel more comfortable with more info, You could have another point down from the underarm seam as a reference for how much you took out of the back piece. whew, I hope that makes sense. I'll add this to the blog post that accompanies this video (link in the description) and there I will add pictures/drawings and more detail. Thanks for the question. It's helpful to others as well.

right. It takes a lot of time. And you have to know what you're doing.

Not everyone is privileged enough to pay some one hun. U born from Sa silver spoon and judge everyone 😅

I wish I could but it’s no longer made. It is a Boden dress from 2022. Maybe you can find it on Poshmark? Or check out Boden.com they usually have great prints and colors and this style comes out almost every spring.

This is a great and interesting question. My first thought is not to bother taking out a serged seam to re-sew it. I would cover the seam allowance with a soft strip of fabric. If it's knit fabric you could simply fold it over the seam allowance - the serged stitches - and sew it down to the seam allowance close to the seam, catching both layers of the strip as you sew. If you cut a strip to cover the serged stitches out of a woven fabric, cut it double the width you need so you can turn under the raw edges. Like bias binding, which you could make or buy already made at places like Walmart and Joanns. If I were making the garment, or remaking it (altering it) I would definitely use French seams - especially the side seams of the shirt and the sleeve seams. Well, I say that, but sometimes I sew a straight seam, press it open, and leave it. Depends on the fabric. A French seam with a heavy or bulky fabric is not always pleasant, and a fabric that is prone to fraying needs a French seam. You could also try what used to be called a Hong Kong finish. It's when you bind the two raw edges of the seam allowance individually with binding. You'll see it used in unlined jackets. You're idea of folding each seam allowance under itself and then sewing is good, but if you fold them together, as one, (Like a French seam but not sewn wrong sides together) you'll only have to make one pass under the machine per seam instead of two. Thanks for this question.

that's interesting and makes sense. A cost-saving shortcut 😡

It’s going to be the reverse, basically. If you have a lining or partial lining you have to get under it and see how much seam allowance your side seam (or center front seam) has. Then you’ll undo those seams in the area you want to expand and re-sew them with a narrower seam allowance. To know how much you need to add, measure your body, then measure the dress. You want the dress to be an inch or 2 more than your body so it isn’t skin tight and you can move in it. If I need to add 2 inches, and I have 2 side seams I need to get an inch out of each seam. So I’ll try to move the seam over 1/2” into what’s currently the seam allowance. 1/2” x2 is 1”. If you don’t have enough seam allowance to extend enough you may be able to add a little fabric under the arm. So much easier if the dress is sleeveless. I hope this is helpful and thanks for the video idea 💡

This is trickier - because of the zipper. When you remove excess width from the side seams you do have to take an equal amount out from each side. On the side with the zipper, you'll have to unpick the zipper but maybe not the entire zipper, just where you are taking in the dress. And then you can trim down the bodice front & back where the zipper was and sew the zipper back in. Example: You need to remove 2 inches from the bust area but 6" below the bust the dress fits - nothing needs to be changed. I take out 1" from the right side seam and 1" from the left side seam. The right side is done like the video above but the left side has a zipper. I have to unpick / take out the first 7" of the zipper. I have to trim the left edge (where the zipper was attached) of the front & back bodice pieces, 1/2" each at the top and blending to trimming 0" at 6" down. Cut off the 1/2" to 0" then, using the same seam allowance as the dress originally used, sew the zipper back in.

I would try to take it in at center back, yes. First, pinch out the excess in the back with clips or pins. Anything temporary. Then see how the garment looks. Check that the side seams aren’t pulled too much too the back. If everything looks good and the garment still falls as it should (not swinging to the back) then, yes, you can take out the extra width at the center back seam. Hooray!

Let me try some different ways to stop the foot from sliding away and then I will make the video. This is a good topic for a video. Thanks for the suggestion

I glued pieces of a rubber mousepad to the bottom of mine. Solved.

I have to have at least one pocket.

I hear you. It's good that you know where you want to put your time and energy

Yes, all great considerations. Time is something you can't make more of so you do have decided is altering something worth it? Is having a tailor alter it worth the money that you have to spend X hours to earn? And so, therefore, if you don't already own the garment, is it worth buying or even saying yes to if offered as a hand-me-over/down. I'm guessing you are someone who thinks before you act ;-) Saves a lot of everything when you do. Thanks for your comment.

@@TheDailySew Find a designer who bests suits your figure and stick with it. I'm two sizes different from top to bottom, I love dresses but primarily I buy separates.

@@gw22 yes. I know which brands of pants fit me best and it's not the same as which brands of dresses fit me best.

🙄

The dress is from Boden (www.bodenusa.com/en-us) but I ordered it in 2022. Still might check their sale section

you want to take a size 3x dress down to a size 2x dress? You would take in both side seams slightly as shown in the video. You have the option of taking the dress in all the way down the side seams or stopping above any pockets.

I wrote about adjusting armholes on my blog. thedailysew.com/blog/2016/01/how-to-adjust-the-bodice-and-sleeve-pattern-when-armholes-are-too-large/

I'll see if I can find any answers for you. And then I'll reply back here. What are you starting with, clothing meant for a very large chest, a medium chest? And when you say modify, how do you want to modify? Fit it tightly? Have some ease? Of course it will vary by garment, sleeves, openings, seams, other style details, but I'll see if I can find something out for you.

Hi Samantha, I had the same surgery when I was 44. I mostly alter big armholes and low necklines ( no cleavage). Wearing mastectomy bras with prothesises in public. Loose t-shirts at home. Was never sucsessful in modifying ordinary swimwear myself, pockets are hard to sew in that stretchy material. Small problems! I am a 20 yr survivor, that is what counts and I am grateful for that. Wishing you the best!

@@TheDailySew thank you. I have dresses but mostly blouses and, of course, those darts are huge because I wore a 40F bra before surgery.

@@Flieder9 I don’t wear bras anymore at all. They ride up so badly, I gave up on them. They would start at the right place but creep up until I felt they were in my throat (and that was using toupee glue strips, too, sigh). How do you keep them down? I can’t stand a really tight bra on my scars.

Interested in learning about this! My breasts changed shape dramatically due to unintentional rapid weight loss. I'm not really interested in padding my chest to fit garments, since my 36E/38D breasts were more "part of the body I happen to have" than the body I felt right in. Not that my current extremely saggy breasts are something I'd have chosen - but they're allowing me to "smush" and explore small chested, and non-binary aesthetics - and they're not in my way!

it's a little bit of a pain to have to alter your clothes after spending to buy them but it's more of a pain having nothing that fits right. So I have to get over it and make the alterations ;-)

Actually, that is a chalk marker I use. The chalk line just dissapers but you can "brush" it off with a dry wash cloth. (Clover makes the marker. It's called Chacoliner and they come in a lot of colors. I use them all the time and really like them)

Ha! Knowing where you can save time is very helpful. I have a friend who alters patterns and clothing by eye. She swears humans can judge distances better than they realize. Granted she works with her hands all day, measuring. She's a bookbinder so she has a trained eye. But still, she's correct when it comes to some people, and maybe all of us.

so true 😁 I should buy some - I wonder though, do they come thin? Because with more delicate fabrics you want to use thinner pins - However, it just occurred to me, that where you pin out the fabric (for an alteration like this) will probably be on the new seam so any holes left by a safety pin wouldn't show - and then again, you don't want holes in your fabric. It's a toss-up. - But when altering denim safety pins would work

Yes good thought. I will do a search for this. Also they are not really meant for double knits which require more like a ballpoint end.

@@Bandaid17 oh, right.

Not a bad idea to start at the shoulders. I keep my clothes a little loose because I have an AI disease and can go up and down in size/weight throughout the year. So, I try to get more use from each item rather than have 3 different size wardrobes.