Sounds good Matt....look forward to all the information coming up!! I got a late start this year with the crazy texas weather.

Conor Ward has a very impressive video on wearing PPE 😁

Lame! Unless it's just a short clip about if you feel your spray hit your face to close your eyes... Because that's my ppe.

Any issues or yellowing w your turf?

So does prodiamine help with broadleaf? I've been overloaded with information and I'm over thinking this stuff. Haha

Pre or Post, each has a negtivive effect on turf, it may not be a visual difference but each has made an impact. A home owner who has the time, and time being the key word should be able to manage their lawn without the use of these products or very limited. Have you ever noticed the old man that has the lawn on the corner of the street, how nice his lawn is? He mows and mows, maybe to get away from his wife, maybe time to solve lifes problems, but hes mowing his warm season grass, on a 3-5 day schedule. We find that high frequency mowing is one of the most over looked culture pratices here in states. Having a golf couse type lawn requires a golf course type effort, and Effort being the key word. My experience is I can manage my own lawn without the use of pre or post emergence, this requires a special technique called Bendaknees. Bendaknees has long been forgotten, as it requires time and effort. So when we can't master this "Time or Effort" We have a eazy solution, Pre and post emergence herbicides. We manage about 350 residential sites, about 75 acres, and it is impossible to manage without the use of all the above. But you are on to something about not using Pre emergence, if you have the time, try Bendaknees, if time is of essence try spot spraying your crabgrass. The big box stores do have some products that work, but it seems that most crabgrass products all seem to stress the temperatures in the 80s or below. As a professoinal I find most of Matts videos are right on the spot, Further more I would say even as a professional Ive learned more from Matt than any Turf school or professer.

Done it for 15 years. It works.

I swapped to a new spray tip and used a little blue turf dye to double check my pattern..... looked like a radioactive lime green with prodiamine.

Aldo I love the pic!

A or B. ???

.83oz. is max per year

@Al 6r I don’t remember what I may have heard in this video that caused me to make that comment. Maybe if you just watched this video you can help jog my memory. I did have some decline of my St Augustine in isolated spots that started around a month later but not sure if they are related to this videos subject matter 🤔

I don't know why you would start with one material and finish with a completely different one 2nd app. You should not need to switch to a "post" killer IF your 1st prodiamine app was made early and properly.

It is true, but it is not as effective on poa making it less effective as a winter pre. Also, typically winters are wet seasons for most areas, which means greater downward mobility/less efficacy

@@TheGrassFactor Thanks for the reply. Very very informative. Still have an older bottle of prodiamine and this would save me a lot of $$$ . Will give it another shot.

Late applications, dithiopyr is better unless it's the second of split apps

@@TheGrassFactor we will still have a frost or two within the next 4 weeks. Wouldn't that squash CG, leaving Prodiamine still a viable option. Hate spending the extra $ on dithiopyr.

@@aj12271 for sure! If you've still got a frost, I'd push forward with what I got

@@TheGrassFactor thx Matt!

I bought 5lbs of prodiamine, still have 4lbs left.

Growth regulators affect only gibberellic acid production, which regulates upward growth - not tillering or rooting, as those continue operating at a normal speed. The pre's slow the tillering and rooting, and do not affect upward growth

Sureguard is not a root pruner, all good there

Studies show no not really

Sorry, this comment was posted on the wrong KZfaq video…ur video automatically came up..

Great option!

@@TheGrassFactor thanks

@@TheGrassFactor thanks

why? Isn't it bad to blanket spray post emergent if you have no to very little showing of weeds? Just spot spray. No?

makes no sense to me

@@TheGrassFactor I may have seen a guide suggesting prodiamine first then dithiopyr in may and then prodiamine before winter. Is this trash advice or a decent strategy?

@@GregDaMurse prodiamine followed by dimension is not a synergistic application. The claim dimensions applied for "early post" crabgrass only applies if single use max rate dimension with a good surfactant. I never see that in guides.

@@TheGrassFactor ok makes sense. I didn’t know it was only at max rate there was some post emergence activity.

These only work preventatively, so if you see it now, these products won't help. You must use a post emergent now - like quinclorac or pylex, and then apply the pre-ergents in late winter/early spring before they show up.

Subvert Pre-Fix

In November? None of them. That's past the window of cool season weed germination

You see it all the time in golf greens, etc.

@@TheGrassFactor Those places don't typically use pre-emergents?

@@jaygonzalez3555 they alternate on and off. Many kbg pure stands do not use any at all. Some zoysia too. But almost all bermuda and tall fescue do

@@TheGrassFactor Yeah, I'd love to not HAVE TO apply it simply because it's less "stuff" on the lawn, but as you may remember, I'm Bermuda in Central TX. Winter storms aside, our winters are pretty mild.

@@jaygonzalez3555 you can pretty much guarantee in TX, you'll be applying pre almost all of the time unless you want to rotate to post only year, I which you'll be spraying significantly more because of the weed pressure

Depends on timing and soil structure

IMO that's what I would do unless I had a bunch of dimension laying around I needed to just use up

Prodiamine as a WDG formulation is indefinite as long as it stays dry. I'm honestly not sure on Dimension.

@@TheGrassFactor Thanks!

Yes, anything growing in soil treated with a pre-emergent herbicide will be affected to some degree. Most tolerant species are listed on the label

The pre emergent herbicides are safe around ornamental plants and shrubs as long as no contact with the roots occur. It is very important to only apply a pre emergent to plants that have the soil firmly settled around the roots so the pre stays at the surface of the soil.

Ehhhhhhhh possibly, I've never run into applying it in mid January as long as I ran a split rate. Maybe as a single Max rate, but I honestly don't know

Penoxsulam is not a DNA. My experience with it is it's hard on the turf but I've never applied to St. Augustine either. YMMV

If you check the subvertnpk.com website, we have some trial data showing the efficacy of our prefix product used to overcome the effects of pre. Yes they help, but need higher rates. 2-3oz/M of a concentrated product

@@TheGrassFactor .... Thats where I read it, Thank you sir. I started using Subvert last year, great product.

Ethofumesate

@@TheGrassFactor Thanks. Am I stuck with using Prograss EC or can Ethofumesate be purchased separately? Prograss EC is pricey, but cheaper than a renovation.

The point is to understand this is happening. Who cares if it scares people. It's the reality of what we're doing. All the more reason to have a good NPK program so we're not starting at dormant lawns on June22. All the more reason to understand why we follow label rates. Also, so we can have that in the tool box as a diagnostic tool.how many problems are we looking at in lawns that can be attributed to over/misapplication of pre-emergent

Will that appease you? Will you like me then? What else can I do to serve you today? No.

APPEASE ME!! Lol little touchy eh?@@TheGrassFactor