I called three separate carpenters for estimates on repairing my door jamb (walk in cellar). Both sides were rotted on the outside in the jamb to a height of 24". They all said the entire unit must be replaced (including a door) and quoted me $1200.00-$1450.00. I wasn't born yesterday, I could tell they were thieves. I bought a cheap oscillating multitool for $39.00 at Harbor Freight tools. I took out the weather exposed side cutting it by the door stop. I purchased PVC trim at HD. I'm old so I took my time. Took me about 6 hours of fussing. Total cost was $175.00. I was told it looked better than what a carpenter could do. It will last forever being made of PVC Veranda. So it matched, I did all three sides and used top quality stainless screws. I know I went a bit overboard on framing the door. But it looks so good. I kept the heavy steel door and there was not one bit of rust on it. I originally installed the unit 37 years ago.

After doing this job three times in 10 years on the same door, I finally ripped all that trim out and replaced it with vinyl. No more painting, no more rotting. Did the same thing for my garage surrounds, for the same reason, with the same result. Looks great, no more rot!

To make it easier to cut a straight line, tack a guide strip to the lower part of the board. Let the multi-use tool blade rest on the guide strip while cutting. Even someone like me who's hands shake quite a bit can make a straight cut this way.

Thank you for taking the time to put this video together. I had been putting off this job on a couple doors for too long and tackled them today. They look better than new. Before reading the comments, I also made a few modifications that have already been mentioned (45 degree horizontal cut, plunge vertical cut so the old/bad piece comes right out). But watching the video made the job go MUCH faster and problem-free. I realize that the video is 2 years old, but wanted you to know that it is still helping people! Thanks again.

Thanks for your video. I repaired a rotte door jam on our outbuilding using these instructions. Worked like a charm and looks professional! My husband was impressed. He said "now I don't have to hire someone." Hell, no, we can do it! Thanks to you!!!!

I'm new to doing my own home wood repairs, and for the last 2 months I have seen over fifty videos on door repairs and on this one video I learned a whole lot more. I feel like your in my head knowing all the question I have about this kind of work and you have all the answers, thanks and I have subscribed.

Great work !! From a retired high end custom home builder !!! I have seen these situations a million times !!!

Thanks for posting this great video. My parent's house needs this kind of repair, now I know what I need to do and how to do it. The only thing that I would do in your case is not use the shims but use long strips of would, the thickness needed and put them behind on each side of the new board in order to have an even backing. This video was very informative. Thanks again.

Damn. I would consider myself to know quite a bit about home repair and remodeling. But I always learn something (usually several things) from every one of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Used your video to do this today. Was able to find a three foot section of jamb at Home Depot. So didn't have to cut my own groove. I sealed the ends as you suggested which is a good tip even for treated wood. Thanks for putting this together and supporting DIYers.

And by the way, thank you SOOOOOO very much for recommending the PVC boards. Replacing most of my trim, and all of the sections that are sitting on the brick with it. Well worth the money.

I was taught by a professional carpenter to cut in a step pattern rather than cutting straight across. It would lock in better and be more supportive. Thanks for sharing!

the multi tool is a really nice tool to have, it does wonders. It is one of the best tools for a great job, to remove a rotten door jam thanks for showing us a great vidio.

Additional tip - use the caulking to seal the end grain on the bottom of the piece of wood. Put a small amount on the end grain and rub it in to the wood. Really helps it not rot in the future.

I have three doors that need these repairs. I was planning on pulling the whole door frames/brick molds. Thanks. This type repair will probably last the rest of my life.

Great job! I love this fix. I would probably tear the whole thing out just to make sure nothing else is rotten. I had this same type of situation and tore out the old door and frame to find the subfloor was also rotten.

Thank you for this. I have to do both sides to my daughter's back door, and have been dreading it. This helped a lot.

I might add, a speed square comes in really handy on this repair. Slide it to the location you want your plunge cut and use it as a guide for your oscillating tool.

Often wondered if a repair like this could be done. Great how to video, and really explained it well. I have a garage side door with both sides doing the same thing. This is better than having to replace the whole door.

So wish I would have seen this sooner. I pretty much did what you did. But I didn’t use the level tool you did to make sure i had a straight line, so I had to mess with the angle in my cuts to get it to fit. Glad that I at least did most of what you recommended.

You did a pretty good job on this jamb repair.... I've seen jambs rot like this for 4 decades now...and you only had two choices to repair it, either tear out the whole frame, or repair it like you did.... For the past 15 years or so, the Jamb materials have gotten better, and this type of repair should no longer be a problem....If the proper frame is used in the correct location.... I am a Door Builder by trade,, Building both standard and custom Exterior entry units.... And Currently there are 3 types of standard Jamb materials that we use... Primed fingerjoint pine jambs, Frame saver pine jambs, and Solid composite jambs.... The primed pine jambs should Ideally be installed in locations not exposed to direct weather, like a Garage, a Porch, or location that has a large over hang...... Frame saver jambs are our main sellers, because they pretty much Eliminate the type of rot that you just fixed... these are pine jambs, but the lower 4 inches are made of a Composite material to eliminate water penetration at the Jamb/sill joint... The all Composite frames are the best,, due to the fact of never having to worry about any rot,, but they are pretty pricey.....SOooo... As the old saying goes.... "You get what you pay for"....

Good vid! Quick tip for you. The surgical line you speak of...if you want it to disapear, very slightly bevel the existing edge and new edge of the cut line with sand paper. Install your piece, and once adhesive sets up, use some automotive body filler over that area. Sand it flush once dry, and your ready for paint! You did a nice job, so might aswell take one more step to making it look invisible to the normal eye. The caulking shrinks back and you'll always see that cut line.

That was helpful to see how ours will be done. I thought I could handle it myself but after seeing all these details, there is no way I have the proper tools and abilities to do such a previously thought easy repair. You said in the video you've NEVER seen the inner door jamb with the rotten place, I have an inner door jamb on the underside of the hinge that has rotted out and so, I'm thinking either get a new door and have them just replace the entire door and thus the whole thing is repaired and replaced vs paying the carpenter the $800+ he wanted to do the lower jamb outside and the inner jamb below the hinge. Cheaper to get the door and install vs getting it repaired. So much for DIY.

Funny, I just got new multi tool blades so I can repair my back door jamb. I subscribed earlier today and this just popped up. Good timing, good tips, thanks!

Nicely done! When purchasing a new door upgrade your jamb (Door frame) to composite bottom or complete composite jamb. Generally the first place water damage is found on an exterior door is at the bottom of the jamb as this video shows. A composite bottom jamb has the bottom 6-8 inches of the jamb and brickmould made from a composite material which won't rot. Or go with a complete composite jamb. Its a great investment for a little amount. Hmmm, I sound like a door salesman or something...LOL

Rather than using a level cut as you did, I use a scarf cut sloping down to the outside so it will shed water. Silicone is not paintable so I use elastomeric caulk (Lexel, e.g.) at the bottom.

Watched this video a long time ago but remembered it. I just came back to say thank you and tell you this video helped me fix my own issue here on my house. Thank you!!!!

very nice! subscribed...as a retired painter/handyman, i like to prime both side of repair wood before it is pinned in. in my day i didn't have those oscillating tools--what an improvement over the old days. i probably would have planed a thicker repair piece to avoid the shims, but this is quicker and a good idea. also, i like dynaflex for the caulking and anything else i can use it for!

Ethan, I always use an old chisel or a sharpened flat trim bar for jobs like you're showing in this video. I find that either of these tools work better than a "demolition" screw driver.

Very nice and informative. I’ll take a pound of confidence before I start sawing into my door jambs.

Here’s a tip I use… When using wood brick mould/jamb make sure your use a primer or paint on the bottom 3 inches BEFORE you install, to help seal it and “help” with future water repelling to assist with rot.

Ethan, you saved me five to $800 in fixing a rotten door jam at my house. I was able to get a broken door jam combination from Home Depot that they couldn’t sell for $15. That’s all the materials I spent.Thanks for the great tutorial and your videos. I wish I could buy you a couple of beers!

Pro handyman here. I used to repair the same way. Will rot again. Clean up, remove rot, fill with foam, glue/nail pvc plank in front as you would a baseboard, silicone/call up to you...done in no time and will never rot again.

An oscillating tool should be in everyone's tool kit !

I need to do this on our garage doors jambs. Thanks for the video, feel more confident in replacing the bottom sections rather than the whole peice now 👍🏼

75 yr old woman doing this all by myself. And yes i have my own multi oscillating toolq

Whenever I replace any vertical wood trim I put a 15° bevel aka weather cut instead of making a straight cut. To do this using the same tool you used just cut a 15°bevel on a scrap piece of wood same width as the piece you're removing and tack it to the piece you're cutting off. Short point on the face, using this as a guide for your saw. It will make the joint disappear use a small amount of caulk in the joint. Also leave an 1/8" gap at the bottom of the threshold to allow caulk to adhere to the piece you're installing. I use a nail puller to put upward pressure on the piece while nailing to get the joint tight. Sorry about the long comment but I'm very detailed when making exterior repairs. Hope you give this method a try.

Better than new, I’m sure that treated patch will outlast the door, good job

OMG, I have this issue in my basement where there was a flood. So helpful! Thanks.

I had this problem on my door. Couple of thoughts... I consider myself a handyman and trust me, it’s not as easy to do a quality job as this guy makes it look. For one, it’s hard to tell how the door jamb is really made until you cut in to it. You may find that it’s not so easy to replicate the wood that’s there (as I did). TBH, I have mine reassembled but it’s not like it was - it’s pretty evident that it’s been repaired. Which leads to my second comment - there’s really no need to remove that much material - you just want to remove the rotted portion so start with removing 3” or so and work your way up until you’ve removed all the rotted wood. That way if you can’t exactly replicate what was there it’s not so obvious. My project gave me a new respect for a good craftsman LOL. I think within the next 6 months I’m going to have a door company replace my entire front door assembly with something a bit more “fancy” and not made of pine.

Perfect! I have the exact same issue on one of my outside door jambs. This just confirmed my idea on how to do it. Thank you!

Nice looking repair. You can also buy PVC door frame pieces that are made for this. Kits usually include the entire frame (3 pieces), but I have used in the same way as your repair, i.e., replace just a section at the bottom of each vertical piece. With PVC, you never have to worry with doing it again.

Nice job, I have jams on 20 yr. old house rotting a way and wow what a job to fix. I appreciate the help and the tips.

Want to thank you for showing this repair is possible. I did it like you showed. I used a scrap pvc board. Will paint when it stops raining.

Been putting this off for a year and came across this while in quarantine... Thanks for explaining cause of problem. Very nice!!

For those who may have a hard time cutting a straight line. You can take a scrap piece of wood with a straight edge and screw it below your line. This will give you something to rest your tool on. It won’t just help with a level line but keep your pitch too. With this repair he’s already ripping with a table saw. No harm in ripping down a scrap piece of 2x6 etc and avoid the shims. He’s doing a cheap repair for those who can’t afford a whole door. Use what materials you have. Cut your height and angle and width as he showed. Insert the 2x6, scribe a line for your depth and run through a table saw.

Perfect. This week's project. Nice job. Thanks for the tutorial.

Thanks for the instructions. I was about to replace the whole jamb but this will be easier. That oscillating saw is what I need.

Thank You for sharing!

I watched the video w/interest as I've spent 30+ years in the field as a residential finish carpenter/cabinet maker. I'd be the first to admit, none of us "old guys" possess all the answers or angles, however I feel there are a few outstanding issues yet addressed here that are a disservice to a homeowner(s) & ourselves, as craftsman that need consideration. Generally speaking, door & window manufacturers have, for the last 30-40+ years, supplied the trades w/finger jointed jambs for interior and exterior jamb applications. Clear wood jambs can be specified at the time of ordering, however, at a significant up charge, which typically was the exception and not the rule in application. In this particular instance, I'm not certain that yellow pine, (chiefly the wood used in pressure treated wood products), but also becoming more and more prevelant w/ interior millwork, that this is the material of choice for a exterior jamb repair - even "dried". y.p. moves (expands/contracts) at a different rate than the spruce/pine/fir finger joint jamb material which is commonly used today. Additionally, y.p. grows differently, faster, has a different density than white pine/spruce, is not as stable (much more brittle) and doesn't perform/hold up as well when introduced or exposed to moisture long term. To the point, look closely at any exterior y.p. decking material - vertical or horizontal in application. Whether it's treated for moisture and exposure - after the intial 6-8, or even 10 month drying time, to receive and absorb an applied sealant - it still checks, along the length of each board. That's why Trex decking & similiar products have surged as a go-to decking material. My experience early on is that in repair work, y.p., especially p.t., checks (cracks) similiarly along the length of the board over time in exterior applications. Whether you're using "dry treated" boards before priming/painting or not - y.p. inherently checks, in time, no matter how you treat it after installation ...take it to the bank...it just does. There's a reason you don't typically find finger jointed y.p. door jambs - treated or untreated wood, used on EXTERIOR applications, w/entry doors. Additionally, 2" finish nails, or even 3" nails for that matter will not keep a y.p. board flat - the board WILL MOVE, curl, with the grain and, eventually, resists being fixed/nailed, by checking (cracking) along grain lines. It must & will relieve inherent stresses within the board, it's the nature of y.p. This allows moisture in, which can lead to paint failure & eventually, decay. I've replaced more than a few of these y.p. "patch boards" through the years on doors AND windows - they will move and decay - even p.t. boards - more so than the regular pine f.j. board... they just do. Lastly, the repair does look cosmetically pleasing initially, but the sill is left unsecured to the bottom of the jamb & it will move out of place over time - foot traffic, constant opening/closing of the door, house movement - and the structure does move/settle over time, even minimally; caulking will not remedy the joint long term, causing potentially more damage beneath the sill and framing beyond the jamb. I know, as I've demo'd plenty of these type repairs, beyond the door unit itself. They do not hold up season after season and with foot traffic. They just don't... look, I understand the scope and intended purpose here - what's warrented in this instance; the economics, the time and labor ect.... but, if you want repeat business, and that's what this is about - business, then do it right, or don't do it - for the sake of sparing someone the heartburn of another re-do... I generally try and steer the homeowner towards total jamb replacement w/a clear wood (non-finger joint wood) repair, even utilizing those fiberglass bottom jambs & then prime the stuffing out of ALL sides/ends thoroughly & (2) top coats of quality exterior paint. I reconnect the rabbet/joint milled at the bottom of the jamb (made in the field) to the side or edge of the sill for a solid connection w/screws & apply a bead of caulk where the sill meets the shoulder of the rabbet, allowing a 1/8" gap between the top of the sill and the underside of the bottom of the jamb cut, to allow water to flow away. I have yet to have a call back due to a joint failure or water issue that is caused by failing paint/caulking at this reconnection. Lots of words, yes... but that TV commercial & the Midas man wasn't whistling Dixie when he told the customer, " you can pay me now - or pay me later." I'd rather walk away from work, having to forego income - than "paying a customer" to get off of a job, because my "repair" wouldn't remedy their issue. And if you don't quite understand how YOU end up paying a customer to get off a job - continue with the "practical patch work"... one day it'll come to you & outa-yo-back-pocket...

Love your channel! I'm trying to learn home repair to avoid those costly contractors! Thanks!😘

Awesome tip. Been putting this off cuz wasn’t confident in process, till now. Thank you

All these “experts” and “perfectionists” should have their own YT channel. I’d bet if you visited their homes, they wouldn’t be so perfect. Thank you for the video.

I did this same work on a customers garage access door here in Seattle about 4 months ago and yes, oscillating multitool here is the best thing to use. On top of replacing the piece I cut out, I also used wood hardener to treat the softened wood behind it. Then put in wood filler on top of that. then I used waterproof adhesive to put replacement piece in place, primed and painted it with marine paint and finally caulked the joints with marine caulk.

Thank you for describing and making this repair. I really like your teaching style.

Great video, still contains valuable information. I was getting ready to replace my kitchen storm door when I removed my old one and noticed the rotten wood. Perfection video to saved me some valuable time and expense. Added a minor change, and 😉used Foam Insulation in the cavity, this should eliminate any future moisture issues. Used your last trick chalking the base of both sides of the jamb. Tomorrow just install my new storm door. Thanks again.

that last tip about cutting the bottom and adding silicone was interesting. I'll do that on my new jamb.

They make PVC that size or close to it. I have used it for all my windows and door jams. Never have another problem.

Thanks. With you help I fixed my outside back door

I did this same repair two days ago. I hadn't looked at any videos and today found this one. I did the same thing he did with a couple of differences. I cut the old wood out with my oscillating tool. I used a chisel instead of a screwdriver (a screwdriver, really?). I didn't glue the board in place since in a number of years that new piece may rot again and need to be taken out. I do like the idea of using the oscillating tool to create a space away from the concrete. I did think about that but haven't done it. I'll do it tomorrow. Over all really good video.

very good replacement there . me , i would have prepainted that slab before installing it. then apply more later for cosmetics. awesome video !!

Great job. I would like to recommend that you do something else in addition to adding the cut at the bottom to cause it to clear and stay dry off the concrete at the ground level. I would also prime both the bottom edge as well as the entire backside so that it is further protected and not likely to soak up water (like raw wood would). Thanks and keep em coming!!

Thanks for the info. Recently bought a house that has some rot by the back door I'm looking to fix soon. Haven't done this kind of work before so it's helpful to see how it's done.

Great info! I did this same repair years ago, but in my case, the brick mold had rotted too. I actually bought another door jam (the whole thing) because it wasn't that much, and I cut about a foot out of the bottom section that I needed. I cut the existing jam with one of those circular rotozip tools, but I think using the oscillator tool would be easier.

Thank you for the great video, now i can fix my door

Just wanted to say well done. A number of comments (including by me) are helpful additions but I know from experience that this repair just as you did it is very good and will last. Take the comments as hopefully helpful additions but not as criticism or just being negative. I’m a contractor and find your channel very helpful. Subscribed.

Looks so great my sons home needs to see this because his door is just like that thanks so much for the idea and the sharing this video with me once again Thank you

Sweet been a carpenter 40 years and I approve. Nice job

I need to make this same repair. Although I'm also replacing the entire brick moulding with PVC, as that's rotting at the base as well. The one issue I had was with the shims. Rather than just use small pieces, would it have been much more effort to make shims that go the width of the board? Seems like it would give the replacement piece a bit more stability and a more solid fit.

First I thought you used my house to do that because my side door looks the same and thanks for the video. 👍🏼👍🏼

I have exactly this problem on a front porch door. I was wondering if this was possible. Apparently, it is! Thank you for the help. Now I can get this nuisance fixed and in short order, too.

Had a similar problem and used a similar method. A lot of rot in behind that I couldn’t totally correct. Used a lot of wood hardened and Great Stuff. So far so good.

This is very good and your presentation is great! (Come work for me!) Just Kidding - or Not!

With those thick shim and moisture getting in at the bottom, seems like a great place for mold to grow behind the new wood.

Awesome! Thank you! It's basically advanced LEGOs and understanding materials and building science. Knowing how to use a multi-tool and table saw helps!

Instead of caulking for replacement pieces I'll take real fine sawdust & mix with wood glue to fill in joined gap. When it dries sand smooth & paint. Sometimes it makes replacement joint almost impossible to detect. Great video!!

Great video and great workmanship. Alternative is available though... there is a product by Abatron called LiquidWood and WoodEpox that I just used that worked well. You dig out the dry rotted wood and vacuum what’s left. Then you mix the liquidwood and brush on several times until absorbed. You then use WoodEpox and mold that into place while the liquidwood is still wet. Then you sand a bit until it matches surrounding piece and you are done. Once cured the product can be sanded, painted, or stained. Many historic restorations are done with this stuff. Either method is good. I am not a fan of lazy manufacturers that create the problem in the first place by using pine or melamine which deteriorates rapidly when water comes into the picture. Have a great week!

needed to see this thank you. though im scared mine might have a little more damage then in your video. though as soon as i get mine fixed im getting me a storm door to further protect it.

Don't use painters caulk to seal water out. If it says easy water cleanup it's not for outdoors where I come from. Also, a little pre priming or azek/PVC boards adds life. We always use composite jambs or doors with jamb savers here on the Oregon coast anymore, wood ones last about 2 years

Thank you for the video! I just used it to repair my door jam. I appreciate it! Very easy...step by step.

After more than 45 years as a craftsman in the restoration field, I recommend Abatron epoxy injection and epoxy consolidant for this and forget the dutchman scab.

My carpenter uses PVC board for those repairs. Nice vid .

This is something I have on my to do list. Good video. Thanks.

This and your undersink video have saved me a few hundred.

This is why I have a Larson heavy duty storm door. With the lock on the storm door it is additional protection for you as you answer your door. If someone wanting to rush in they have to deal with heavy duty storm door while you close your main door and lock it.

Helpful information thank you for sharing !!

Hmmmm, I need this done to my entrance..... thank you for this training 😊😊😊😊

Thanks for the tip. I've been wondering how to go about resolving this problem on my garage walk in door.

Great video! I would recommend cutting a 15° or plus with the multi tool though for water shed. From the Pacific North West!

I like using Bondo wood filler. The stuff dries hard as a rock, and you can sand it down with an oscillating tool. It works great as an alternative.

Thank you for sharing. I needed this video and hopefully we can fix it ourselves and save thousands $$.

This is an amazing repair. I'd love it if you could go into depth about a critical sub-fascia or crawlspace repair. I have done quite a few, but with the way that you think, I'm willing to bet you do it much better.

I’d suggest also painting the end grain of the bottom edge before fixing the replacement jamb. That should reduce any moisture absorption. 👍🏻

They also sell pre hung units with a jamb saver this comes with a composite material finger joined to the bottom of each leg. That’s all I order for clients or full composite

Awesome! Super helpful, liked the shim work as well. My husband and I can replace our door frame now!

Very helpful and detail video for DIYer. Thanks for sharing.

Instead of hammering on a screw driver like it's a chisel, use a chisel, or use your oscillating tool to make vertical cuts.

Also suggest priming the piece before putting in place.

Awesome job.....great explanation from start to finish.