Appreciate it! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Glad to hear it!

Thanks 👍

Thanks man!

Thanks@

Thanks!

I'm not familiar with that style of wax finishing. How is it done?

@@EricMeyerMaker warm the wood and melt the wax, then spread the wax onto the warm wood and rub the shit out of it. as it cools and the wax starts to crumble off, keep rubbing so the friction works as much wax into the wood as possible. let it rest and come back and burnish/buff it. for the rubbing and the burnish/buffing i was taught to use heavy canvas or burlap around a dowel. different size dowels with different ends to get into different spots. you really want the piece of you are finishing to be bone dry so the liquid wax isn't resisted by water as you burnish it into the surface. it would be done to smoked wood for combs and such as well. the Japanese still do smoked wood combs and plane bodies on the more traditional artisan pieces, the finishes are pretty varied though. smoked wood is hung in a smoker for sometimes a decade or more. the wood ends up really stable after that and is pretty dang hard. i brutalize my Japanese wood comb and unlike all of my other wood combs, it's still in one piece. anyway, the beeswax finishing process it was a pretty common way to maintain tools for something like a thousand years. just rub in some new wax and burnish/buff it back in every so often to maintain the finish. no need to rewarm the wood unless you took a chunk out of it. i cut down one of my planes finished like that to make it shorter and the depth the beeswax penetrated was pretty surprising. feels great too after the waxiness wears off. if the tools our out in the sun or get really hot they will feel a bit waxy again though. i usually hit them with another around of burnishing if that happens, not sure if it does any good other than make them feel better in the hand again.

I thought the same thing about that angle. I have a couple of antique router planes with similar bed angles and I based this one on those. I'll probably lower the angle on the next version to make it easier to push.

​@@EricMeyerMaker I am wanting to make on to use my antique plough plane irons. They have a wedged shape to the iron being fater at bottom and thin at top. I understand that the hags tooth routers made use of the same iron as ploughs for convenience. Do you think the angle on the antique plane mortice is such due to the angle of a typical iron (where yours is flat)?

@@arick_mnc That is a good question. I don't think the taper of the blade is going to alter the bed angle. The flat blade and the tapered blade would both sit flat on the bed. They both would present to the wood at the same angle. The difference is going to be more so in the amount of taper that the wedge needs to have to hold them secure.

@@EricMeyerMaker Thanks for your thoughts! :)

@@EricMeyerMaker I guess what I am saying, is the traditional plough plane would result in the edge being about 5 - 10 degree further forward on the cutting edge than yours which is flat and at the angle of the blade. Again, I appreciate your thoughts. :) I really enjoyed the vid.