While those do leak pretty bad overtime, it's not going to take the engine out, the injection system will quit running before you scatter the engine, hence hpop, it's basically impossible to run a 7.3 dry.

Maybe that's where my mystery leak keeps coming from. I'll fix one leak and get another lately. But at 751,000 miles I guess that's to be expected. Just replaced my first water pump and oil cooler rings this year. Bestt truck ever!

When these flanges leak enough the oil will drop to a level where the high pressure oil system can no longer get oil to fire the injectors. So even if it dumps all your oil on the ground your engine won’t stay running for long enough to cause damage.

Worked for Ford for quite some time and have never seen an oil leak from there cause the engine to fail. Anything is possible but the majority of the time the engine dies from the lack of oil before it starts to destroy any of the internal parts.

The stock adapter costs less than $10. Looks like Jasper did a good enough job with the RTV as you could barely remove it. I'd take the chance and run it considering the part you are installing costs $300. My 20 year old 7.3 has 400,000 miles and that part doesn't leak. I did replace the dipstick oring and tightened the adapter nut. If it leaked a lot I would clean it up and RTV or JB Weld it.

They way that thing was torqued and siliconed on, I'm convinced Jasper did it right and I would've NEVER f-ed with it!

It was fine. Now there is a loose part in the pan. No thank you.

I believe you have the most honest and value of information on videos...Thanks

Honestly I don’t think that was going anywhere with that much RTV but you do you.

Recently sold my 6.0. Had it since new and got a 6.7. Also have an 02 7.3 that has been a workhorse since new. Mine doesn't leak yet, but wouldn't mind heading it off at the pass. Anyone who has a 7.3 knows that chasing oil leaks can be a full time job. You can hang a picture of one on the wall,and have to put a bucket under it to catch the drips... I'm gonna look and changing this on mine. Thanks Steve-O.

🤦🏼‍♂️ like I understand that it’s meant to stay in there so you don’t have to pull the pan in the vehicle being such a pain but come on man that’s a brand new motor and you were right there 😭 my ocd went insane

Got a repair kit that Riffraff diesel sells that was pretty easy to install with no issues so far. Thanks for making these videos to show the problems and fixes.

I did this exact thing with the engine in my 1995 truck 7 yrs ago - no problem with the part left inside - and no one else to my knowledge - who has left this part inside - if your truck is leaking from this spot - the only way to fix it is to pull the engine to replace this part. - I also used their fuel conversion from a manual diesel pump to their electric diesel pump setup and no problem in 6 yrs. - expensive yes but pay once, cry once. ps - I had my cousin call you about his zetor tractor but man are you backed up - congrats on your business -

Makes my head hurt knowing people actually leave that in there lol

well finally someone who makes something to fix this PITA oil leak issue ive got a fleet of power stroke diesels and having to check them all the time after having to foot the bill for a new engine is not fun ide rather foot the 2-3K bill for a few of these adapters and fix my trucks then having a 10+K bill for another engine thanks for this info now i got some preventitive maintanence to get done and some $$$ to spend lol

I installed this adapter on my 7.3. It's unjustifiably expensive, but still way cheaper and far less hassle than trying to remove the oil pan. And for all you cringing at the thought of leaving the old adapter in the pan, it's been three years for me and I haven't had a problem. The physical weight of the oil keeps the old adapter from flying around the pan and also the windage tray inside the pan provides a barrier between the sump and the crankshaft further reducing the possibility of the old adapter flying up and destroying the crank.. So unless I drive my truck upside down, I'm not going to have issues.

So when the $300.00 part fails You have a spare in the pan. Got it.

Its funny as you say that it reminds me about talking to someone about their engineer class. He said his professor said it is fairly simple to make a part that is super effective however it takes a genius to make things break down systematically like clockwork.

I bought one of these and had it installed five years ago. Works great. My mechanic wanted to charge me to remove the engine for the stock repair. I insisted that he install this. Saved me thousands of dollars.

I tried the repair kit first and didn’t work so I went with the adapter. I didn’t like the idea of a part sitting in the oil pan but I figured the designers, shops and numerous customers have nothing but good to say about it, then why not. I am another happy customer 👍🏼

I've put a couple of those on. Same price I paid a few years ago. Great piece. Truck still on road with no dipstick leaks...

Thank you. Mine started leaking today at 268000 miles. I have some of their stuff on my truck, very well built items. Looks like I will be ordering this today. I trust them, and I trust you.

Love the videos dude. This one helped alot had no idea these guys existed. I have a 1995 7.3 f250. And it's leaking from the flange and rear main seal but I'm about 2500 bucks into the build and your content has helped alot.

Seems like a nice piece but $300 is wayyyy overpriced

Had the issues with the dipstick flange a couple years ago and it blew oil all over the undercarriage of my truck. My mechanic fixed it about as well as Jasper engines did. I couldn't afford to have the engine pulled to drop the oil pan to fix properly. This last week while on vacation in Phoenix I had Strickly Diesel install this adaptor so I can now have peace of mind to not ever have the problem again. They're a great shop to deal with over the phone and in person.

Please tell us that since you have the motor out. You dropped the pan and removed that back plate piece. There’s no reason not to. . .

7.3's cannot catastrophically fail from oil leaks or low oil pressure. They will shut down before any damage can be done because the injectors will not function without proper oil pressure. Good info, but inaccurate to say it will prevent engine failure because it is not possible from failure of that part.

I had never seen this video until now. And I was dealing with that on my 95 F250. So I went online and I actually found that part that he's showing oh, and I installed it myself and I've never had a problem with it. It's an expensive part but well worth it.

That’s actually really cool because that little weld does double duty in letting you spin the plate into position counter clockwise to line the other screw up

Steven. There are couple people that sell the upgrade from $80. To $250. On 7.3 forums on fb. Cant hurt bearings. Motor will shut down before damage. Ask me how i know. Lol. More of a nuisance than anything. I'd never go with jasper. Ford remans are great for around 8500 and up. Great warranty. Good video man.

Thank you. Love seeing the 7.3 videos as I have a 7.3 that I love and want to keep for a long time. :)

As always, nicely done! People need to lighten up on you. You're providing a solution to a problem that will absolutely work. Other solutions are available, along with different techniques. Much appreciate your time & effort put into these instructional videos. Stick to your guns & ignore the trolls, brother! Me & my 02 7.3 thank you & your family and hope you're all healthy & happy.

When I lived in Phoenix, I actually had the guys do some work on my 6.0 PSD Excursion. They bailed me out, and did great work! I don't know anything about the project in this video, but I would work with Strictly Diesel.

"I like to put one of these blue caps on so debris can't get in here." ( After dropping the RTV laden dipstick back plate in oil pan and shredding RTV with a pick as the loose RTV drops in pan.)

Nice piece, i had to use one of these on a 1997 F450 7.3 liter work truck, needed the truck for work and couldn't have the truck down. When that part leaks, it sucks. The aftermarket part works great and dont worry about the part being dropped into the pan.

Well done and great update to that block. Thank you for your skills...Peace

I’ve always a heard a 7.3 will shut down before it does any damage. Oil level wise

My friend has this happen to him, he solved his problem with Acetone cleanup and a ton of JB Weld, never leaked again

i bought a bunch of stuff from strictly diesel to build my E-fuel setup on my OBS ford they were top shelf

Worth every penny; 175k miles on mine! I had a mystery oil leak which was the dip stick adapter. Found the Strictly Diesel part cause the silicone and other crap failed. I have over 175k miles with this part on my 01’ Platinum Edition. Anyway, I cringed thinking about that part bouncing around too; but think about it, you would have to hit one hell of a bump to move that through oil covering it. Unless you doing monster truck jumps go for it. Plus, the pan doesn’t just drop out. Even my dealer said its around $2k for them to drop the pan. Crazy! Plus they had one they replaced with OEM part, it failed. Back to how I did it. I used vise grip and an AR-15 chamber cleaning brush to hold the part in case of an accidental vise grip release. The brush bristles are wider than the hole so I pushed it threw before griping. And yes my Vise grip released inadvertently, thank God for my fall back safety mechanism. Bottom line. This part has worked like a charm for me. The reason the Ford part fails is the nut is made of pot metal and The o’ring swells and expands over time, warping or flexing that part ever so slightly...enough to start the leak. Do it you won’t regret it if you think through the process, follow directions, and then change your oil afterwards.

When my dipstick leaked, I used a filed down toothbrush on a wire that fits in the hole to hold the piece from falling in, the toothbrush head fits tight and the bristles hold it in place once in but allows you to pull it out easily too, I slapped a nice new o-ring on it and hasn't been a problem since, been like 5 years I think

Thanks for sharing Steven. I'm on my lunch watching your new upload. Cheers brotha!

I replaced my oil dipstick adapter with one from strictly diesel. It cost me over $300 but it didn't require my taking my oil pan off. That was about 2 years ago and I have now found that piece for around $55 on amazon. Either way, it completely stopped my oil leak! Great video, you are totally right about the oil leak getting pretty bad, but with that said, I noticed it on my driveway almost immediately! I guess if you're on a 1000 mile trip and don't really pay attention a motor could be ruined, but it was blatantly obvious to me! You're also right about Jasper engines. Their factory is awesome and everything they make or rebuild it very high quailty! I live a few hours from the Jasper Factory.

Thank you for the information Mr Cox

Yes sir, leaked all of a sudden towing my trailer. Oil light came on (never happened in 210,000 before) luckily there was a shop within 40 miles and I had enough oil with me to get me there. Overnighted this part 👆. When they said they were going to drop the old part down into the pan I got to say I was skeptical! Asked my diesel mechanic about it when I got home and he said, “Yep that’s the best fix going, don’t worry about it they did you right”. Another 60,000 on it and not one drip or worry sense. Subscribed!

Man thank yoiu I am so glad I ran across this video I have an oil leak on my 7.3 now I know where else to look..

Awesome video again, with the detailed descriptions always a plus!I’ve been subscribed and watching ur vids for a min now. Keep it up sir. You’ve help me more than u could ever know! I’m fixin something rite now with ur very informative help‼️

never heard of this being a problem before. so glad I came across your video.

So far - I have no leaks at that spot... Now the front and rear main...they leak a little... It is still going strong at 322 K miles... That ol combine engine...is just incredible

After #14 in instructions Prior to installing the dipstick adapter do the following: with the dipstick adapter in your hand turn the welded end screw counter clockwise and line up the hole with the second screw. Use a black marker and make a mark on the head of the welded tip screw and an area of the dipstick adapter where you can line up both marks. Lining up these two marks will allow the second screw in the dipstick adapter to line up with the threaded hole in the dipstick adapter inside the oil pan. Also, DON'T tighten to electrical screws too tight, you'll break the solenoid housing OUCH

So what happens when the orings in the adaptor fails? Same thing right?

My buddy just sent me the link to this video and I'm glad he did. I just bought my first truck with a 7.3L powerstroke. This video was very helpful and you Sir, just got yourself a new subscriber. 😁

Hiya, I took on my own truck and made a new one that welded to the pan , inside and out with no flex of pan , but the pan needed to be off

Dang..I want one..but have to admit... Watching that thing drop into the oil pan, baffle or not, nearly made me pass out. Key-rike-e! Excellent video!

I wonder if jasper voids their warranty knowing that's floating around in the oil pan?

I have a 2000 F350 7.3, 235k miles, and so far the engine holds oil fine. I do have small leaks. But I will have to check the adapter out.

My 855 Cummings had 2 9/16 and wrenches in it when I re sealed it.

Great video Steven , now I know where to look to see where my 2003 7.3 with 106,000 miles is leaking oil . Thanks

I bought a 1973 Wheelhorse D250 Estate tractor with a cast iron twin Kohler on it back in the late 80s. It died a few years ago, splines on hydraulic pump wore off and did it in. One tough machine. Motor still ran great, but I pulled the pan just to see how it looked after 40+ yrs of hard work. In the pan was a MAC 5/8" swivel socket with the chrome worn completely off from rolling in the cast iron pan. Upon close inspection, the socket just fit through the fill/dipstick opening (3/4" npt). Someone must have intentionally tried to sabotage the motor many years ago, but it never happened. Through the years, I've found some weird stuff in oil pans, but that's the winner. The socket was too small to catch in the rotating assembly, and too big to block the oil pickup. Still have the socket, and occasionally use it. It's WELL lubricated and rust free, despite the missing chrome...

I bought a 95 ford F-250 for $ 100,00 dollars because of the oil leak with a 7.3 L .now I can buy the part on and oil pan then but the truck back on the road. Thanks for your input on the oil leak

My injector cups were not cracked but compression was leaking past them , #8 and #4. Thanks for that tip

This is a nice thing to know. Thanks for the vid

Great info Steve !

Oil cooler o rings can leak alot too. Good to know had a few that I had to replace.

This was quite a shocking discovery. I’m by no means a Ford 7.3 engine lover, but I sure do think Ford needs to jump on this issue! This is good info to know about, so thanks for taking time to share it. That adapter is quite expensive, but really is worth taking time to replace it. Maybe you need to do an update on this after the engine has a few thousand miles on it...as an , Oh, by the way, this was done and it still works fine. Food for thought. Again, thanks! 😎

How about check your oil more than just when you change it. I've got 400k on mine and mine leaks a bit it. still has the stock one.

Always keep an eye on your oil pressure kids

new o ring on the adapter, rtv on threads and where it tightens down to the pan 150k later still dry. hope the jasper holds up for you personally i would never use anything re-manufactured from them. have seen and heard of too many engines fail before backing out of the bay, and i like doing things once. 9-12k for a 7.3 engine r&i? you can build it for roughly 4k depending on what additional goodies you want on it and know what you have and use genuine parts.

Excellent upgrade.

This is not a paid advertisement!!! LOL ! Great job Stephen!

I've bought and sold a few of these 7.3s And never knew how bad that leak was. thanks

Great video!!! Hey Steven how many products like that do you know of???? Do you know of more that need to be made?

Also includes a rare earth magnet to help you hold The Back plate after finishing it you install those magnets on the bottom of your panWhich will hold any metal debris And also the internal Part that stays in the block

Was there a locating pin for that little tab? Or do you have to mark the dipstick location?

Good info!!!

I had a 1996 7.3 F 350 ford diesel shoehorned into a old style ford pickup. The oil pan was with in 2 inches of the cross member and can not be removed. Crazy thing, the oil pan rusted out and leaked in frt. . My brother in-law had same issue and cut the cross member out /replaced the pan and re-welded the cross member back. Instead, I pulled the motor out the top, very tight and difficult.I had to removed everything off the frt of the engine including the water pump. I Should have changed every seal while it was out . 5 year later oil leaks out the turbo pedestal and fuel leaking out the bottom mech fuel pump. sold the truck for 700 dollars . I loved the truck but didn't wan t to pull the engine again...It had 210,000 miles,it could have went another 100K...

id make the customer pay to have me take it out, they just paid for a 300 dollar part they can dish out half an hour of labor.... in my opinion

I bought it I'm not a mechanic I did it myself and I don't have any more leaks 💪🏽👍🤑

So if I am offroading and it does get very bumpy, couldnt it get sucked up in the crankshaft?

2001 e450 7.3 - 150,000miles. Just shuts off, starts back up. Very random. Can drive its for weeks with no issue, then just decides to go haywire shutting down, a lot of the time it's when I hit brakes or a heavy bump in road. But mostly random. Then it goes away for awhile. I changed the CPS but no luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I also own/drive an 02 F350 crew cab 7.3L SD 4x4 with 217k. I've seen videos on this oil dipstick housing working its way loose over time resulting in a leak & I've also seen this “Strictly Deisel” component before and my jaw almost dropped at the $300 price and the fact instructions are to drop the old component into the rear of the oil pan. (but I do understand its a more permanent fix than the cheap POS Ford used as a factory component. Anyway, dropping it just didn't sit well in my brain as a past mechanic of 20 years but I'm glad he explained the pan is of a design that prevents the dropped hardware from interfering with normal operations. Longer story short, I recently changed oil and noticed mine had just barely started to leak so I checked and tightened the nut about 1/4 turn (just snug) and then used brake cleaner to clean the area good and dry. Drove it for another 100 miles and checked a few times. No more leak was present but I sure didn't want to visit this again so 2 days ago, I cleaned the area again with brake fluid and used JB Weld to seal all around the nut and let fully cure for 24/36 hrs. I believe I caught the issue before the O-ring inside expanded to a degree that would have been unfixable without replacing the O-ring OR using something like the “Strictly Diesel” fix.

I just came here to say.....I love Cox! Rock on borther

If you've ever pulled a Ford distributor out and the oil pump driveshaft falls into the oil pan because someone didn't install the driveshaft clip during an oil pump replacement, you'll learn to deal with it that it will stay in the bottom of the pan, just as the dipstick modification recommendation. Great fix.

Great Video! Thankyou

I have started looking at 7.3 truck/Excursion. This will be completed in the first 24 hours of purchase.

Great video Stephen @Stephen Cox

so a complaint is made on shortcut by engine company, siliconing the part vs shortcut of dropping a nasty part into the oil pan.... it works-- but how much to just change the gasket and do it right? the part could rub a hole in the pan, rattle around-- or bounce up into the engine in case of roll over-- you never know.. it is 4 wheel drive- and they may drive as if they stole it--- no biggy.... it will fall apart first-- i get it-- it is a ford after all... should do as a chevy owner-- install magnets to hold it in place and catch other parts that fall off... joke....

This happened to my 2016 f350 powerstroke while driving to oregon.Roseburg Ford damaged my sidesteps equally on both sides of the truck and my truck now has a permanent ticking inside deep inside the motor now and it was under warranty but now im stuck with 900 $ a month payments and a damaged motor.

I never had that leak on my 2003 F-350 with the 7.3l. Now the bigger issue is the oil pans rust out and you need to pull the engine to fix it right.

I have been building this exact same adapter for about seven years, made out of Billet aluminum It also has two Viton o rings The only other difference I have run mine on my truck for 300,000 Miles and still going And they only sell mine for $100

What is a good budget turbocharger to buy for 2002 f250 7.3 power stroke?

Great video!

Thank you for making this video. I will be buying this part asap and I will mention that you gave me the referral.

You could’ve just put a little bead on the nut with a welder & grind it off when you want to remove it. Costs about $0.005 & some time. It’s just a little something to keep it from moving/rattling free.

will you warranty the engine, after replacing the dip stick adapter?

Word to the wise, the old one will have a backside flange that won't come out of the oil pan and you have to drop it into the oil pan. Don't worry about it, the piece can just stay in the bottom of the oil pan. It freaked me out at first and I tried for hours to get it out with a little grabber. Crazy enough, I was able to get the gasket out of the bottom of the oil pan, but never could find the backside flange. LOL

I am familiar with that adapter. It is the same as the 444 International. I was fortunate, I noticed smoke from oil hitting the exhaust.

I just like great parts that work and I would use that part in a heart beat to keep oil off drive way or garage floor .

Yes, the quality of their dip stick must be potent...……..

Considering the engine is out I would definitely be removing the oilpan!! Are you kidding me with just leaving it in the pan! Lol! All it would take is maybe a half hour of your time so you could be absolutely sure of no issues down the line. All it takes is one little glob of silicone clogging up some orifices and your screwed! I cant believe the company who makes this mod is ok with just leaving it in the pan. I suspect when they get sued eventually they will change their attitude! Lol!