I would like to thank all of you! Not only for watching and the kind words, but also sharing additional tips and ideas. That's what I find so amazing about our hobby and communities!

Holes in home casted models are not necessarily a bad thing and it can end up being a useful and unexpected bonus for you. Here's why : If a shield has holes, insert arrows in to them to depict a tirade of arrow fire. If a sword breaks while removing it from it's mould, use it to depict the failure of the weapon and why it was discarded, or place it near the hand of a dead man on your base, or even place it in a hole of the deceased to represent the sword being thrust deep into the torso, and it stays in the body because the dead man's sword was taken instead by the victorious slayer. Any dead bodies with holes can always be rescued in several ways. Firstly, by the addition of an arrow stalk you can add to its narrative. It makes the model look more realistic as it appears that he has succumbed to death by being hit with a salvo of archery fire, rather than just being dead with no reason as to how. Models should always be animated - in essence, telling the story of what's going on in that part of the battle. You can either create a new arrow, by the addition of a straight, green florest wire with some small, sculpted, green stuff flight arrows, added to the end of the exposed shaft, or, using a regular arrow, cutting off the arrow point and inserting into the hole. Even if the arrow shaft breaks there's no problem - just add the broken section to the models hand, thereby giving the impression that the dead man tried to remove it before dying). It looks especially good if the arrows are in the face or torso regions, hitting major organs or eyes, but they can still be used anywhere on the model. The holes can always be expanded and sculpted a little where an "explosive" crater has been formed, to depict a gruesome, painful demise to the enemy. It can be caused by plasma burn, bullets, laser burn, sonic immolation or even burning from a caustic chemical weapon. With the addition of blood and guts, small pieces of flesh, caustic chemicals, laser scars, or burning skin, hanging from the hole, a problem now has a solution. This wound could be from a shotgun, a plasma rifle, laser gun, sonic weapon, chemical attack or gunpowder grenade. If a body cast comes out flat in any area because not enough green stuff was used or enough pressure used to force it into the mold, then again there is always a solution. Make it look like the body has been "squashed" and been run over by a tank, wagon or stomped on by an elephant as it rushed forwards. Make extra ruts or stampede marks in the soil adjacent to the body (ground could consist of green stuff, mud products or fast setting epoxy and a black light) by rolling a wheel, pressing tank tracks, or elephant footprints into the soil around or close to the dead body, sometimes even on the flat area, like a muddy tank track over the body. This gives the clear indication to everyone that sees it, just how the man was killed. If the body breaks in any way while you are removing it from the cast, the answer is simple - this is how the soldier died and his body was simply hacked to death by a sword, or blown apart by explosion, or had whatever part of his body broke off, used to explain his death. A mass of blood and guts in a small area can always be used to narrate the story. Problems with a cast items can always be circumvented - you just have to change the way yout mind looks at things and see an opportunity to do something cool and impressive, as opposed to seeing a miscast disaster and failure. I hope this helps someone.

There's this Japanese stuff called Oyumaru, which is the same thing but a lot cheaper since it's not marketed to wargamers (funny how that works) I also find that Milliput works amazingly well in the molds, but greenstuff seems to be more readily available, at least in my area.

you could fill your air bubbles with the liquid putty stuff that AK or Vallejo sell then they would be perfect

With more complicated molds I would apply little bits of greenstuff at a time. It's much easier to work a smaller bit of greenstuff in, than keep adding more while pressing it in. That will hopefully avoid some air bubbles.

Damn, not everyday do you find such informative video like this one. Reallly easy to follow and explained to depth.

Great video! Bluestuff is awesome for convex originals but struggles if there are a lot of concave details on it, especially if it is small. Like sunken nuts and bolts. Try to have as little concave details on your original as possible and you will have far better results with less struggle. I prefer milliput instead of greenstuff for this technique. It is easy to control the consistence with water so you can fill your mold easier and have less bubble problems. Also you will not have to force it so much into the slightly malleable mold thus you avoid inflating the mold and risking your piece not matching the original in size. Lastly it is a lot easier to clean afterwards. Greenstuff is very rubbery while milliput becomes more like plaster, so you can scrape and sand it where you have to cut greenstuff. One exception is a sword for a mini for example. Greenstuffs flexibility makes it a lot more sturdy should it fall down. Milliput is strong but might break in this case.

Using a flat surface like this makes so much more sense than whatever I've been doing and it seems so obvious now LOL 😭 I boil the water in a kettle and then pour it into a jar with the blue stuff and cover it with the jar's lid flipped over. That way, you don't risk overdoing it with the heat and don't risk getting harmful substances (namely leftover putty) in your pot. I've also found using a silicone sculpting tool is useful for pushing the putty into the deepest parts of the mould, then pressing in the big chunks after it's all squished up in there before any of the putty has cured. Lastly, you can safely remove the casting after about 8 hours from the mould, without distorting it. This will let you practically peel flash off with your fingers. A hobby knife will cut through thin flash effortlessly, leaving you with really clean casts. You can then put it back into the mould to finish curing, or leave it out somewhere it won't be bothered. Waiting a full 24~48 hours for the putty to cure can make it difficult to cut through, leaving you with really jagged edges. I still can't get over not using a flat surface though...gonna make things a lot easier lmao

it's so good for making scatter terrain and fun objective bits

Miliput or a combination of miliput and greenstuff is also what I would recommend just as copying a miniature or bit entirely front to back with blue stuff. Mostly just needs some work afterwards with a hobby knife and you got yourself a copy of a mini to „test“ anything just like color patterns on

: D amazing for diorama building

Fantastic, thanks for the video!

on something like the skeleton. i wouldn't cut the flashing away. i'd leave it so when i put elemers glue and dirt on the base it ad a small grade to the dirt building up to the skeleton. it small but can make the figures look more towering as well.

Great vid!

Used this before I bought a resin 3d printer. The printer is much more efficient and gets better results. I also think green stuff is way to expensive for using it (except new sculptsor small repairs). Molds can be shaped to allow filling two components resin in it.

Great video! I've used blue stuff in the past and it has helped me out in a pinch. Just found your channel and have subscribed. -John

Since the blue stuff seems to be somehwhat transparent im wondering if you just make the molds and then instead of bothering with green stuff just use liquid UV resin. It should fill the details better and be somewhat easier to work with.

Great video, thanks

My dad did something similar with plaster to make bricks for terrain

Thanks for sharing!

I LOVE THIS CHANNEL! Looking forward to more fantastic videos Stay happy healthy and fluid

i could see this being a great way to make bulk terrain items for dungeon crafting. doors especially. would the Blue stuff work with other molding materials? or does it only work with green stuff?

Super neat

Polyaclay could i make molds then the actually pparts with it too ???

nice tutorial, well edited also

ty verry usefull

Might I suggest using sprue goo? All you need is a load of sprues a jar and something to melt the plastic down into goo. Absolutely love using it for gap filler too

Question, have you tried liquid green stuff for this process, might wrong better. But love the video, and will be ordering my Blue stuff asap.

Nice video ☺️

I'm really new to the crafting experience for miniatures, so forgive me if this is an otherwise 'obvious' question, or one that has been asked before, but: Can this sort of thing be done with milliput, as well?

You can also use some vaseline to lubricated the inside of the mould so you can extract the greenstuff easier

Oooohhh I've heard of blue stuff! Didn't for the life of me know what it was though man!

930th subbscriber...I feel special :))

Mix 50/ 50% green stuff with brown stuff. It's better because it's hard but not brittle, not bendy but good for details, good working times to carve it for 2 days then it goes hard, and best of all its gold in color.

You should sell those molds. I’d love them at my local store

THIS is blue stuff

My blue stuff is actually blue. Where do you get the clear blue stuff? It would be alot more useful being able to see how it fills.

make a squad of men with it is it strong enough ?

thats why you use milliput it hardens in 5 hours and is waaaaay cheaper

You could just as easily and for less expense use epoxy putty instead of green stuff.

Green stuff too sticky? Use a small amount of hand lotion on your fingers. Makes using green stuff very easy.

Using this technique since a few years. Advantages : ultra cheap, can get "official" symbols repetead as much as you want, the more molds you keep, the more variety you have. Disadvantages : it takes time, the details are less marked and clear and to copy a whole mini, it's not really worth it.

But....but its not blue!

So basically "Recasting"

stop biting your finger nails ....... dang how old you are ?

Throw away that blue stuff and just buy a resin printer.

just buy 3d printer...

just get a resin printer

❤ used to love it before 3D printing became affordable and widespread.