I wish everyone who fixes things has this level of precision and care as you. Amazing work.

This is an amazing video! Your technique is perfect and covers the whole process for a difficult repair. The two things that are unresolved for me when I tried it this week are 1) a safe procedure to remove the LCD without liquid damage to the diffuser layers or cracking the fragile LCD panel itself, and 2) where to obtain replacement packages of diffusers (maybe all six in one pack?) I have tried a heated silicon separator pad (65 and 70 C), a hot air rework station, an automotive suction cup with various prying tools - very thin metal, metal almost as thick as a credit card, a plastic guitar pick, a plastic razor blade, and a playing card. I tried sliding the tools around the edge to gently loosen the adhesive, but barely any pressure without heat will crack the glass. 65 C on the heated pad didn't really help loosen the adhesive, but 70 C created halos on the bottom silver diffuser layer. I didn't test that one, but I'm fairly certain it won't look good with the halos. To remove the LCD panel, I also tried isopropyl alcohol, 99% alcohol, iFixit Adhesive Remover, and Goo Gone. Even my attempts with a single drop of liquid in the corners resulted in liquid damage to the diffuser layers, which I can't seem to find for sale anywhere. I replace the entire display assembly fairly often and had eight "dead" displays in the garage recycling which I used to practice on. I may have to make the rounds to our local recycling centers to get some duds to practice on because I don't have this down yet. For someone who works from a home office without the benefit of a clean room, the best bet to avoid dust, cat hair, lint, or any other contaminants when working with the diffuser layers is to clean the bathroom sink, mirror, and lightfixtures, take a hot shower without running the fan, put on a clean shirt, and while it's still steamy do any work with the layers on the clean sink. Just pulling the layers off one at a time creates static, which draws all manner of floaty bits in the air, if you're outside of the bathroom. If you get a cat hair, it's difficult to even locate the correct side of the correct layer to "dab" the hair with a bit of leftover screen adhesive on a tweezer to remove it. As an aside, it there any way to clean or restore the coatings on any of the layers? I was thinking about testing several different methods next weekend. Thank you so much for a super-helpful video! Any tips on safely removing the LCD when it seems very stuck together or on where one can order LCD diffuser packs?

Very Nice!

I tried this procedure on my own and it is very difficult to extract the LCD from the frame. I touched the backlight sheets and I have to replace them. Also it is very difficult to get the LCD out in one pice, it broke. Also I touched the cable on the top and it has a cut. It is better to buy some broken displays from Ebay and try it several times, it is not easy. For myself, I will buy one Display directly from Apple, because I don't want to lose True Tone.

Great video, thanks a lot! I have a question: When reinstalling the "display frame rubber gasket", do you use glue so that it doesn't move when the LCD is mounted? I can see that you are using cotton buds after replacing the rubber gasket. Is there any glue or liquid on them? Many thanks

I recently discovered that the TrueTone is paired to the Logicboard on the M1s, so when a shell comes in that is too damaged to repair or the LED/Cam strip has liquid damage, I have to get replacement shells and swap the cameras. Unfortunately, the M2 is a huge issue because the LCD itself is serialized, so repairing it leads to a weird glitch. Hopefully someone finds a solution to that.

Thank you for this tutorial! I'm wondering if I do not care for true tone, can I just buy a used genuine apple screen from eBay with the top lid and swap it?

How you replease a true tone ?