Cheers Robin! Cliff

I know, lengthy introductions frustrate me too! I suppose it is to broaden the base of understanding, gather focus, and... maybe some folks are slower than you. (But maybe not 5 times!) Cheers, Cliff

Thanks for taking the time to give feedback. Cheers Cliff

Thanks for the feedback! Cheers, Cliff

Thanks for your feedback! Cliff

Cheers! Cliff

We have one at the company I work, it's in poor state of maintenance but bought new by the company and all the documentation is there. I am spending some lost hours fixing the machine so that I can use it every now and then. Very well built machines with lots of nice and well thought-out features.

Thanks for the feedback! Cliff

Cheers....I do remember that one ..is a woodchuck also a bird? Cliff

@@Threadexpress Actually there is a duck called a "Wood Duck" that you may be thinking of or there very well may be a bird called a woodchuck but you got me interested enough to look it up and the woodchuck that the rhyme is talking about is apparently a very large groundhog as defined in this Wikipedia link... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/How_much_wood_would_a_woodchuck_chuck

p.s. Thanks again for the help. I've been using a minilathe for some time being that I manufacture rings but it's so narrow as to what I do, I don't ever really expand beyond more that it's capable of and when the chuck went out of line after an employee took out the grips in the chuck, I wasn't sure how to figure the order in as to how to get it in line again and your video was very helpful fixing what I now know is called "runout".

Thanks Joey! Cliff

Thanks for the feedback. Cliff

Thanks Richard! Cheers Cliff

Cheers! Cliff

Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Cliff

Hi Mark. Yes I used to be reluctant also. But when you machine the groove you realize the steel is quite hard down deep as well.. so it is not like a thin hard case on a soft interior. Cliff

@@Threadexpress I accidentally tested the hardness of the jaws on my Boxford A lathe using a drill mounted on the tool post. I couldn't understand why several drills came back with the tip completely flattened. I thought it was the stainless steel work piece work hardening. Then I realized I was trying to drill into one of the chuck jaws! It didn't even leave a mark on the jaw. Now I have made my own grinding attachment by mounting a DC treadmill motor on the cross slide, after removing the compound slide and making a cone shaped spigot to mount the grinder at the center height. I made an ER32 collet holder to mount directly on the shaft of the DC motor. I will put it on my KZfaq channel one day. But I don't know how good my machining is, and also feel a bit hesitant about attacking the jaws with it. I'm not aware of any real problems, but it was interesting that you said that the grinder isn't critical, and users may be unaware of the source of problems such as using parting tools. But the biggest and best tip you presented was how to mount the ring. So here is a big Thank You for an excellent video. Subscribed. By the way I am a KIwi in Thames and the lathe has the original Burnerd chuck that it had new at Te Puke High School, where I did engineering classes.

@@evanlewis652 Hi Evan. Sorry I missed your interesting comments until now. My father was a draftsman/designer at AG Price when we lived in Thames in the 60's. I still love that area of NZ. Cheers Cliff

​@@Threadexpress Hi Cliff, I am in Tennessee right now. Your father probably knew "Nelson" who was also in design at Eastman. He is still doing CAD design by contract and has a huge home workshop. We have been restoring two Tangye stationary steam engines at the Goldmine Experience in Thames. Well worth a visit! They are opening a new blacksmith shop on Nov 12th 2022 with a steam day. I am already looking forward to getting back on my lathe in Thames. I will add a post about my grinding attachment.

Cheers! Cliff

Cheers! Cliff

Yes you can! Cheers Cliff

Cheers! Cliff

Cheers John! Cliff

Hi - I closed the jaws on a diameter of material to lock them up then machined the groove in the lathe with carbide and light cuts, but you could also hold the chuck as above in the mill and use a carbide end mill. Cheers, Cliff

Thanks for your thoughts! Cliff

Yes many years ago I bought a new Emco lathe with that toolpost grinder - but I only sold the lathe! Cheers Cliff

Cheers! Cliff

Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Cliff

Cheers Sam!

Low price without import taxes - and we can't resist.

Hi Tom. Grip a piece of diameter to lock the jaws tight then turning with light cuts and slow rpm, using a carbide insert tool left and right shapes, to machine out a slot - or do it with a carbide end mill in a mill with a rotary table. Cliff

@@Threadexpress thanks for information 👍

Yes. thanks for your comment. Cliff

Hi MM. Thanks for the feedback. The tool shape from memory was 60 deg carb inserts, tipped to suit and lots of shallow light cuts. Yes with a shaft inside the jaws to clamp them stiff. Cheers Cliff

Hi - The grinding procedure gets the inside of the jaws at least in good angular alignment and not bell mouthed, but I agree that in that some chucks, the scrolls are not concentric. However, a 'floating backplate' allows concentricity adjustment more quickly than a 4 jaw. Cheers, Cliff

Hi Mark. Good to hear from someone thinking deeply about this! Yes play on the scroll bearing or a non concentric scroll thread can be an issue with some chucks, and is a minor accuracy issue on all chucks. The procedure in my video is still needed to correct the jaw grip squareness and straightness, but for accurate work of different diameters the work concentricity may still need to be dialed in (I use a 'floating backplate' as mentioned in other videos). When repeat parts are made after the chuck is dialed in for that diameter, concentricity tends to repeat well. Cheers Cliff

@@Threadexpress Thanks Cliff, all clear, cheers!☺

Hi, I'm a Machine Tool fitter and worn scroll plates as well as worn jaws are a common problem. There isn't much you can do about worn scroll plates unfortunately, and I have seen turners giving the chuck jaws a biff with a hide mallet to get the best out of a worn out chuck. Not ideal I know, but if you're really struggling for accuracy and are not in a hurry you could always use a 4 Jaw chuck.

Hi John. You are only grinding off a few thou so the exact specs are not too critical. If you need to buy, ask the supplier for a medium grain for hardened steel with sizing to suit your grinder. Cheers, Cliff

Hi - Do you have a link or name of that ring, how it holds on closing the jaws? I disagree with you on using a boring bar. Cheers, Cliff

@@Threadexpress hmm why not use a boring bar? CBN is the hot ticket IMO and does not generate grinding dust obviously.

@@bigbattenberg For intermittent cuts grinding is the best option. Cheers, Cliff

Hi Evan. Yes I saw that video. The problem with closing on to side spacers is that it can displace the jaws into a different sideways clearance position than normal. Using carbide it is difficult to take the absolute minimum off and get a perfect cut. Cheers Cliff

Yes, there is a side pinching method, but that is not so accurate as it can displace the jaws unevenly sideways, Cheers, Cliff

@@Threadexpress Why are you assuming it's the pinching method?

@@bigbattenberg If not, please describe it. Cheers.

@@Threadexpress I offered to share it but your reactions are telling enough, so fine, be that way.

@@bigbattenberg You misunderstand me. The two methods I know of that avoid machining the jaws are the side pinching blocks and using a ring that bears on the jaw's bevels, but both these methods can displace the jaws within their clearance sideways. If your method is different, please describe it so we can all benefit. Cheers