Thank you Sir! I wish you the best of luck on your car.

You’re welcome! Thank you for watching!!

Thank you Sir!!

Good to know. Thank you for the reply! I didn’t take apart the pump to see how works. I was hoping the circlip installed only one way.

Very true. I remember seeing the tool before. But I don’t have one.

Thank you for the ideas and tips. I agree, definitely unburnt fuel because when it’s warmed up there’s no smoke. I’m going to mess with the amount of squirt from the pump.

white smoke can also be timing retarded.

Very true. Thank you for watching!

Hello mate, I wonder if you could share some detailed pictures of your timing tool. It would be great to know how should the shaft welded on the plate, where should it point to regarding to the slot you move around the nut. I wanted to fabricate something like the official tool, but without these measurements and angles, I didn’t even tried.

@@laszlopolyak4353 Hi, I still have a few timing tools that I can sell, as the laser cutting and writing of 20 pieces was just 10% more expensive than laser cutting 1 piece for myself.

You are correct. Timing chain may be refreshed in the future. The diesel shop rebuilt my original pump. So I don’t have another to try. I am thinking of adjust the pop pressure of the injectors to match the pump pressure. I don’t know. I’m still trying to figure it out. Thank you!

@@conrad1468 ok no probs thanks for you videos they do help 👍

Think you are correct about the timing chain, when you have to fully advance the pump to get it running better it is in need of a new chain, these engines are known for timing chain wear.

I think @Chinkychops12 is correct. Everything I've read is that the timing chains slacken due to the cam shaft having to drive the injection pump through the skew gear. Eventually you cannot time out that wear--unless you cut bigger channels in the injection pump mounting plate OR use skinnier studs so the pump turns more. I have this very same problem and have determined through the process of elimination (e.g., new injectors, pump advancement, etc.) that the chain is in need of replacement. Apologies for the late-in-the-game reply. ~Pete

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r819kpR-26qmpHk.html

Now that adjustment by modifying the pump input shaft. That’s a good idea. It’s definitely better than before but still not great. I have a diesel injector pop tester/set tool. It works pretty good. I have them all set to the same pop pressure. I think I’m expecting too much from the little 2.25 diesel. How does yours going up hills? What is your cruising speed on flat roads? I’m terrible on hills and cruise at about 45mph on flat.

45mph on the straight and running out of puff on hills doesn't sound a mile out to me. Good luck with it and thanks for the videos.,

That’s a good idea. I should have checked it while apart. I didn’t not think of the lobes being worn. But it could be. I wonder… Do they make a “performance” or more power cams for the diesel. mmmm.. makes me think. Ha ha!!

Hello Meryk, I did try the center of the groove and the other side of the groove. Center was lower power. The other end of the groove I couldn’t even get the thing to start. So I’m at the max advance at the current end of the groove. The timing is similar to a petrol distributor. But with a diesel pump spraying fuel and pistons compression making the spark. I’m setting the diesel pump to spray fuel at the “same” time as the spark would on a petrol distributor. I know what I mean? Ha ha!

Thank you Sir! I found the more I drove it the smoke got less and less. I think it just needed a good long run.

I did not but it has a new a head gasket, lapped valves, fresh piston rings and big end bearings. I think the compression is good. Thank you for the idea and reply.

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I’m glad to hear about your troubles! 😀 Makes me feel like I’m not crazy and something like this happened to someone else. During my testing my rear diff broke. I have not had a chance to rebuild the diff to continue testing. It’s not filmed but I was going to start lowering the pop pressure of the injectors to adjust the timing. I figure less pressure the timing will increase?!?! It would be great if you could give it a try and see what happens. I turned my injectors back about 1/8 of turn while still in the engine and my RPMs raised on restart. So the concept might work?!?! I don’t know until I can get it moving again. Let me know if you try it and your results.

@@conrad1468 I searched for so long, the same unfortunate person to whom something similar happened and I finally found it :D I was already peeling off the pump and enlarging the holes, but I got the advice of a very experienced motor mechanic to look for the problem elsewhere. he guaranteed that the main problem is in the timing chain sprockets and their splines, for example, there may have been too much slack, as a result of which the sprocket has moved to the direction of engine rotation. also said it is possible that there are rotating parts in the dpa pump that can affect the moment of injection. what else did he say that the amount of fuel in the pump should be adjusted according to the specific engine and that it would be best to do it in the adjustment device. by the way, when I had already disassembled the engine twice, I did not notice anything like this, and the tags seemed to be in their places, but I had not physically removed it. so I don't have time to work yet, but as soon as I start I will be able to inform you about the results. By the way, I will wait to hear from you as well.

@@valentasd8217 It is crazy having 2 people with the same issue. I thought it was the timing chain, too. I checked the amount of lift the chain was off by using the Top Exhaust notch on the flywheel and the valve lift. It was very minimum off. Not enough to effect anything but who knows until I actually tear into it. It could be enough to throw off everything. ha ha!! Keep me updated on what you find out. I would be very interested. If i had time i would have torn into mine but hope to have time summer of 2023. :)

@@conrad1468 , this weekend i found a problem. It and it was the pump flange gears. I twisted the little one through one tooth. and it seems this problem is solved. The injection time seems spot on, but as we say here in Lithuania - one trouble, not a trouble :D now miracles started to happen. I start the engine, it works fine, I fix all the pipes and everything that I had dismantled. I start again - it starts after half a revolution. but only if I heat the glow plugs. it won't start without heating plugs. (before this didn't happen, if I started the engine and worm it little bit it started working without problems and without heating plugs. In the morning, outside -5, in the garage +10 try to start it - nothing happens. I heat the plugs again, turning again - nothing happens. Yesterday i turned engine of with engine stop lever. I suffer until the battery is almost dead. suddenly it starts, but two cylinders do not work. a lot of smoke, my father and I are scratching our heads and trying to understand what happened during the night. I tried to start it a few more times, but is the same. Finally, my father turned the pump on flnch (few mm), put it on one of the three marks and he drove out. The engine starts again, everything is fine again until turn it off. after turning it off, the song is the same again. Smokes, two cilinders ans so on.... p.s. I can send a photo or a video to an email or wherever is convenient for you, maybe you will understand better what kind of French I am talking about.

@@valentasd8217 seems to be never ending!! Send me an email. It’s in the description. It does seem like some crazy is going on with your tractor.