I have videos on the transmission and final drive change as well.

I'd push back on that assertion! Break-in oil is a relic of the past and is no longer used in new vehicles. Back in the day break-in oil with no friction modifiers was used to encourage the piston rings to wear into the cylinders for a good seal. Today manufacturing and design improvements have made that unnecessary and many manufacturers actually ship cars and bikes with high performance synthetic oil. At least some run-in/break-in is done at the factory. It's still wise to change the oil early, I believe, since the cost is minimal and initial run-in can still cause metal in the oil, but even that isn't always required by the manufacturer. Motorcycles still seem to adhere to the 500-600 rule for initial oil change, but lots of car manufacturers have you go the full standard mileage between changes.

You are indeed correct.😊

It is best to use a new crush washer, although I'd be the first to admit I've reused when I've had nothing readily available. Sounds like you found quite the bargain, though!

Merci! Je suis content que vous l'ayez trouvé utile.

Glad it helped!

Glad it helped!

I can't say I've ever tried that! I think most riders buy the washers in bulk form, which are pretty cheap.

@@tinderboxarts It's not a case of being cheap it's having one the correct size to hand that catches folk out.

I actually made that video, but for a different bike! It does show the procedure with an inexpensive vacuum pump starting at 10:00 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e71kobqH1byynIk.html However, you can accomplish the same bleeding without a pump. Buy a length of clear vinyl hose at your local hardware store or home center with an inside diameter that just squeezes onto the bleeder screw. Put your box wrench over the bleeder screw first, then push on the clear hose over the end of the screw. Now put the other end into a container. Squeeze the brake lever and open up the bleeder screw. Close the screw and get another squeeze. Repeat. The hose will allow you to see any air bubbles and it will prevent air from sneaking back in. Keep filling the reservoir as you pump the brakes and when the fluid in the hose runs clear you are done. Next time I bleed the RT brakes I'll make a video.

Thanks a lot! Keep moving this awesome bike! I love this engine and going to keep it together with my ‘84th JAWA350-638-5, kind of real metal bikes!

There is another option, which is the Motoscan phone app with an appropriate cable. I haven't used that, but it will do the basics.

@@tinderboxarts thanks, I'll check it out. I hope that is a solution that works . Keep the vids coming ...

I think the confusion arises between the two countries. In the US, mineral oils are products used for countertop maintenance, digestion aids, and beauty products. Obviously in the UK if you use the term you'll be fine, since your compatriots use it commonly for describing conventional motor oils.

Yes, you have two choices that I know about, the Motoscan app on your phone with a cable or the GS-911 dedicated scan tool. The GS-911 is more expensive, but it also gets deeper into the weeds for diagnostics, live data, etc.

Glad it helped.

You need a scanner like this one: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNmZo9p71dXaY2w.html

It's true, with a warm engine you'll have a better chance of getting more oil drained out because it flows more easily. However, I really don't think it's that critical. You can leave the plug off a cold engine a little longer and let the oil drain, and of course the oil in the filter will come out when you change the filter. Warm or cold, the vast majority of oil will be replaced, and that's what is important. So my advice is not to worry about it.

If you are uncomfortable doing it by "feel" then a torque wrench can't hurt. I've been a mechanic for over three decades so I don't think twice about it.

Don't misunderstand me--I didn't say it wasn't critical or that you can't bugger up the threads if you go ape on the nut. I'm just saying that it's possible to get a feel for proper tightness with experience. Professional mechanics pull out the torque wrench for engine builds, not for drain plugs. But a DIY weekender with less experience may be more comfortable with a torque wrench. Having said that, it's also important to understand that torque wrenches are not infallible. The wrench itself, no matter the cost, can and will go out of spec. Improper technique with the wrench, such as pulling too hard or too fast, or grabbing the handle incorrectly will greatly affect readings. And torque values vary widely depending on circumstances, such as oil or loctite on the threads of whatever you are tightening or ambient temperatures. Depending on a torque wrench to give you accuracy will eventually come back and bite you. It's best to learn over time what feels right, and use a torque wrench when necessary to confirm your work. That way you won't be fooled when your torque wrench inevitably gives you a bad reading. I also still prefer the old-school deflection style torque wrenches over clicker, dial indicator or digital types. They force you to use good technique and you can watch the scale while you get a feel for tightness.

Just wanted to thank you for a great video idea on the subject of torque wrenches. Take a look if you get a chance: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o5yFl92k26zIqGg.html

I showed the plug at the 11:29 mark in the video, and it is a T-50 torx head. If you have the right one, then it is possible the last guy over-tightened it. Instead of applying stead pressure, you can try a different method. Get the torx bit firmly placed into the plug head and apply some preload pressure on the socket wrench handle. Now take a rubber mallet or similar hammer in the other hand and give a good whack to the end of the socket wrench handle. Just be careful to keep the torx bit centered and straight in the plug head as you do this. By giving this sudden torque to the socket wrench with the hammer you should be able to crack the plug loose. Another possible help would be to heat up the surrounding metal of the oil pan before you attempt to loosen the plug.

It can vary slightly depending on how much is left behind and the size of your filter. If you have a similar model year as in the video, you can probably do 4.5 quarts and then start it up for a minute before shutting it down and checking for level in the sight glass. You are supposed to check it with the engine at operating temperature, so if it is cold and the sight glass is a little below the halfway mark you might be fine.

Yes, the 2011 model is identical to what you see in the video.

Yes, the older RTs have a dry clutch and you could use an automotive oil of the right grade if you wish. The newer RTs (2014 and up if memory serves) have a wet clutch and do require a motorcycle specific oil.

6000 is the recommended interval.

If you have the standard BMW or Mahle filter on your bike it is probably a 76mm x 12 flute design.

It depends on how much is left behind when you drain the old oil. If you let it sit there until nothing comes out you'll use a little more, if you put the plug back in when it's just a trickle left you'll need a little less. Also, some of the filters are a slightly different size so that could be more or less oil. If you are uncertain, just sneak up on it by getting close, starting the engine for a few minutes, and then letting it settle back down. The sight glass will show if you need to add a little more at that point.

Mileage is only one factor in oil life. When a bike is ridden less than the 6000 mile recommended change, other factors come into play. Water vapor condenses inside the engine case when it cools. Unburned fuel and carbon gets past the rings and valve seals and into the engine. These things can have a corrosive effect on the metal parts internally. Especially if you are leaving a bike to sit for a winter season, changing the oil prevents this corrosion from taking place. This is not a BMW thing, by the way, but industry practice. So, they are not trying to "get" you. That said, it's much cheaper to do the oil change yourself!

I was! What was the giveaway?

@@tinderboxarts making things "sailor proof "

Ah, yes! Of course, there isn't really such a thing--sailors will always find a way to screw it up!

No, there's just one fill hole. Add something close to the correct amount and then use the sight glass for a precise measurement of the rest.

@@tinderboxarts thanks, I own a 2018 GSA

Probably you should abandon the kit idea and just buy the parts individually. You can purchase a bulk pack of crush washers on Amazon or similar places, and the filters are readily available. The oil and possibly the filter you can probably pick up at your local auto parts store. I mean, I get Mobil 1 motorcycle oil at Walmart!

@@tinderboxarts Thanks for the advice, but how do I know what size or spec crush washer I need? They come in copper, stainless etc. And what about O rings? Are they both for the shaft drive or is one for the engine oil filler cap? Thanks for the help - Only just bought the bike and am struggling to get hold of a workshop manual.

The O-rings you may be referring to are needed for the final drive maintenance. You might try beemerboneyard.com for some of all of these little parts.

@@tinderboxarts I'm thinking the ebay kits might be throwing in the odd extra o rings because it is a kit sold for more than one BMW. I'd like to buy everything separate and just know the size of the crusher washers to order. Sorry, that site isn't any use as I'm in the UK. Thanks anyway

I didn't realize you were UK based. I bought a bulk pack of crush washers on Amazon last time. See if this link works for you: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQDXPMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't remember now for sure, but I think there is an option to display either standard. You can definitely change it on the dash through the GS911.

You're partially right and partially wrong. On your first point about chemical bonding you are conflating marketing material about a specific brand(s) with synthetic oil in general. Some brands make a claim about this chemical bonding business, but they are referring to ADDITIVES in their mix not the base oil itself. In other words, synthetic oil itself isn't responsible for this supposed effect, but additives, specifically phosphorus. And, it doesn't chemically bond with the metal, which doesn't even make sense. Instead, it simply bonds with the metal to create a sacrificial layer of protection. Here's how the Valvoline company puts it in their FAQ: "Valvoline's proprietary formulation includes special anti-wear chemistry. Valvoline's low impact ZDDP allows phosphorus in the anti-wear additive to stay in the oil longer than other leading synthetic motor oils. Phosphorous bonds to metal parts in the engine to form a "sacrificial" layer that helps protect against friction and metal wear in the engine." So, if you buy the marketing, some companies sell synthetic oil with additives that bond with metal to provide additional anti-wear capability. Not all synthetic oil has the same additives, and I would wager the effect of this so-called bonding is minimal. More important is keeping the oil clean and in it's original viscosity range. Your second point about friction modifiers is correct--the on screen words should have said "without" at 6:37. Regretfully, youtube doesn't allow me to change that now. However, this point isn't strictly universal. Some motorcycle oils do have small amounts of friction modifiers according to what I've researched. Most, or at least many, do not. This does get confusing, too, because in the automotive world friction modifiers are often added when clutches are present. The difference between Dexron and Ford transmission fluid is mostly friction modifiers and automatic transmissions use clutch packs very similar to motorcycles. Limited slip differentials are another example. Anyway, the average user doesn't need to worry about any of this because if they pick the correct viscosity and API classification on the label, they'll be fine.