I just want to say thank you. I don’t think any other channel I’ve seen has done a cutout like you’ve done!

Cheers tinman. The cutaway series is truly a game changer. No one is doing this like you do. This channel is heading for the front of the pack.

101 was, I believe 99…if I was reading the timing card correctly. Love the videos and appreciate the shared knowledge.

I’m late to the party. But wanted to thank you!! I don’t cut wood anymore. I have cancer and lost my kidney and 80% of the function in the other.But what I can do is build RC planes. I can’t afford Zenoah or similar motors. But I did get a few weedeater motors. 25,27 and30cc. I think it’s safe to assume this information is relevant. After watching your videos. Making a degree wheel. Running the motors with 15,16& 17” props. Taking notes on performance. Then measuring the vitals starting with squish. It’s no wonder the 25cc homelight is a dog at .065 squish. It’s almost new and had very little compression. Thanks again it now has the power to take off and fly a 1/4 scale cub J3 with an 84” wingspan. Your an awesome teacher 🙂👍

@ 5:50, you say the exhaust opens at 101 degrees.. it looks like it's 99 degrees.. What am I missing? LOVIN THIS Man.. THANKS for takin the time to do these videos!!!

Tinman this is awesome. Just today I did the delete on a 55 that I had tickled the exh prior, timed events before and after. Squish improved by .018 to .040, intake went 146° duration, and exh roof raised to keep at 100° atdc as was before the delete. Your videos are so clear and you have an excellent way of passing on knowledge. From a bloke in Oz, thanks Tinman!

You had me at average guy!!! Thanks for the info. Definitely gonna do a base gasket delete on my 50cc Jonsered. Great content Tinman

This is mind blowing. Thank you for taking the time to show others exactly how this works. This makes me want to build chainsaws. You are the best

Great video. You know many times more than me about chainsaws but there was one basic mistake for engine building/geometry/trig. You assume that moving the cylinder down by a fixed distance MUST move the port timing by the same number of degrees. You are discounting that the amount of linear movement per degree of rotation is far from constant. If it is closer to TDC/BDC then the cylinder movement will correspond to larger timing changes in degrees. If the port is closer to 90 degrees before or after bottom dead center then linear displacement will have the minimum possible impact on port timing. I hope that pointing out this minor issue might help in some way.

Great video this cut away is a great teaching tool! Keep in mind it is possible to lower the cylinder and have it affect the exhaust and intake a little differently. The travel of the piston is not linear in relationship to the crankshaft. In other words 1 degree of crankshaft rotation is going to have a different effect on piston movement depending on where the crankshaft is. The most piston movement per degree will occur at about 90° of rotation. The least piston movement per degree will occur at TDC and BDC. So depending on crank angle it is very possible for a base gasket delete to change the exhaust timing a degree or so different than the intake. Your intake was at 73° and your exhaust 104° you are 17° and 14° degree from 90 respectfully but it will still be a bit different. I don't know your saw dimensions but on a 36mm stroke crankshaft there would be about 1.8mm travel difference between 14 and 17 degrees definitely enough to show on the degree wheel. Mount a long travel indicator on top of the piston and you'll be able to measure the piston travel per degree of rotation at the different angles. Thanks Again for a great video keep them coming we all enjoy them.

Love the Series so far. Just hate that I found this so late in life. Failing health and failing eyesight has really slowed me down. I just really got into cutting my own firewood, mostly downed trees, over the last year but I really got into it and enjoy the time alone with the wood. Not knowing how long this venture would last, I picked up a few used saws along the way and then a couple of New(but smaller) saws. My little arsenal consist of: 2) Poulan 4018's - a SM4018 and a beat up 40cc Wild Thing(the rarer Purple/Black model) 2) Senix 49cc 4-Stroke's w/18" Bars - (1) Purchased and One warranted to me due to a Part failure on the original. 1) Salem Master 6220H w/22" Bar upgrade 2)80v 18" - Greenworks, Kobalt - good for early mornings, near people picnicking, etc. 1) Husqvarna 445 X-torq - (I revived from a junk deal ) Love this little Saw! 1) Hus372 affordable (Chinese) knock-off w/24" Bar * * the last acquisition is one I'd like to do some basic tweaking on to get a little more performance and possible lower heat risk. My thoughts were Base Gasket Delete(or minimal Gasket) to bump compression a tad and a muffler mod to get the exhaust gases out more efficiently. Looking at - no Baffle and (2) 7/8" pipes angled right. But first things first. The SM4018 has to have a new tank - i.e. everything swapped into a new body. The Wild Thing has to get a New top end. Compression is gone. 1) Senix needs all the new parts installed and a little J.B. weld repair to the aluminum at the Oil outlet.(chain damage) Winter Projects......lol

Very interesting video with the relationship between base gasket thickness, squish and timing. I have learnt alot about 2 strokes in this series that I could never get my head around previously. Thankyou.

Great videos! Very informative. I know little about saws. But one thing I learned from tuning motorcycles, snowmobiles and marine engines is that degrees of rotation means different amounts of movement of the piston, depending on where the piston is during the cycle. For instance, 5 degrees of rotation of the crank at TDC or BDC, equals almost zero piston movement. That is why when you do a base gasket delete, you will change intake, exhaust, and transfer duration by a different number of degrees. They don't always match up exactly. Keep up the excellent work! I wish saws had removable cylinder heads....

Tinman, Thank you for this, and all of your presentations. For those wondering why there's a difference in timing change between intake and exhaust,,, (at ~ 13 minutes)... As the piston approaches TDC, and BDC, the rotation of the crank does not change the height of the piston very much. When the position of the crank is at 90° to the stroke, the piston height changes the most. Any variation from that point will reduce piston rise and fall relative to degree rotation. Best of success to everyone.

Your cut away series is a wealth of useful information. You have a knack for teaching. Thank you for sharing.

Pulling my base gasket out this afternoon. thank you once again for a solid batch of information my friend!

Thanks Tin man, I've always wondered how 2 stroke timing works, also on the sealant thing I find loctite 5699 is more resistant to fuel and oil, even stuck out in the bush with any engine petrol or diesel...I find it works best for me with zero come backs... thanks again for making these videos, you've got a new subscriber 😎👍

Yep, I do believe you missed your calling. You sould have been or should be a teacher. I like that you stay on topic, that's why we're here. I don't have time to sift through a whole lot of melarky and tongue wagging to learn about saws. Keep it pure and keep the videos coming. I am interested in saws. And thanks. I do live in N.B.

Tinman thanks for sharing your experience with us. I've learned alot in the cutaway series. This is good stuff!

Gee 50 thousands I ported my own 372xp and she's at 18 thousands been pulling strong 4 years now and got a old 090 down to 40 thousands and out to 13000 rpm 11500 in the cut it's a wild machine. Thanks for making these videos mate you do a great job keep it up!

Best advanced 2 stroke video 📹 👌 I have seen yet. Thank you Tinman 👍😎💪

Thanks again tinman, I've viewed this video many times now and I'm slowly gaining more and more understanding.

Such a massive help. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge

I like the way you explain what’s going on inside the motor. You are a great teacher. 👍

Tinman you are an exceptional teacher. Thank you. You explain things in a way that I haven't seen. For a builder to give his secrets away is awesome. Thank you for all you do and the knowledge you give to us all.

Man, this is marvellous, theres was a Racer from my city that used to race 2t DKW Vemag 3 cilinder at FreeForce Interlagos. Such a Great engine, full of mysteries, tyvm for the lesson

Tinman I would like to be successful at building saws. You are a great teacher for the view and learn type. Thank you. 🙏

Tinman, hands down the best explanation of the gasket delete I have seen, My 66 is my favorite. thank you brother. Let's add some zeros to the sub numbers!!!!!!

Thanks Tin man, this really helped me out a lot. Point me in the right direction………..

Just to comment, you read the degree wheel wrong the first time you checked the exhaust timing. I was 99 degrees instead of 101 degrees - thats why the numbers were off a little - but the process and explanation is really some of the best Ive ever seen. Thanks for the videos,

I'll say this, if your not a teacher of some sort or have never been you really shood be. The way you take time to describe and explain what it is your talking about just makes it that much easier to understand. This is a Great string of videos 👍 Very informational

Another great vid and explanation. That cutaway is a bloody ripper. Can’t wait to see the new 266 build. Thanks Tinman 👊🏻

Another great video that's very informative and will help myself and countless other's progress with our interest in building fun and powerful saws. Thanks!

Yes Tinman your channel keeps getting better and better! Keep em coming...❤️

GOTCHA Tinman, sounds to me that a base gasket delete IF the squish is adequate and a muffler mod with the correct 2nd exhaust port opening would be a great start for us newbies. My saws will never be the same! Be safe and thanks for these videos.

Thanks man! That helped me a lot! Greetings from Germany. I would love to see a vid where you work on transfers after base gasket delete!

The permatex black rtv in the can is amazing. It's expensive like 20 bucks for a small can but it's the best I've found

This was a really good video man! Tinman’s chainsaw school is in session👍🏻

I still have a 66 to this day. Still going strong. My dad got that saw when it came out in 1980. He did a lot of cute with it as well. Worked at a horse logging company, because national parks wanted horse loggers to go in instead of heavy machinery that would destroy the ground and much of the flora. Selective cutting.

I used to play with Honda scooters and tuning them and did a little messing with some porting. I just ported my first saw last week. I was shocked last week when I needed that sealer and Canadian tire had it. I ported a cheap 41cc poulan 2150 that didn't have a base gasket stock just sealer. So all I had to do was check the numbers and start grinding. You and Iron horse have shown me some of the missing pieces of the porting puzzle porting wise. The Poulan was a blown up saw that my sten son had found somewhere and wanted me to fix it. So I ordered a $30 top end which turned out to be much better quality than the stock crap with 2 rings and nicasil plating. Let's just saw the saw pulls like an animal. I'll be sharing a video in the near future on my channel. Thanks for the help so far!

Im loving this series, thanks for putting out good useful info and going over things a few different ways to ensure its grasped. Feeling way more comfortable to go fart around with the old saw. Gotta get my 353 to keep up with the new 545.

The "Thumbs down" that you have are those that think their way is the only way. They are called "know it alls"! Great channel here! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!

I’ve got 4 of those and a few 268 and 272xp! I love running those series saws!!! I’ll definitely tune in when you do the pouring video of the 266!!!

Great video! I have built some GREAT running saws without lathe work! Yes it helps on some saws but you don’t HAVE to send to machine shop to get a good runner!

Tinman. Sharing the knowledge round. What a dude. Thanks. MAte from Australia

You have become the best learning channel on KZfaq!

Thank you Sir its 19:11 here in South Africa. Thank you for your info for us.

I deleted the base gasket on a little 2 stroke tiller only because I ripped the old one taking it apart to inspect it and didn't have a replacement. That thing starts better now then it ever did.

Love the cutaway man! What a great tool for showing people things!

Excellent job Tinman. Very easily understood. Thanks

Tinman, thanks a lot for this informative video. You talked about stuff I've heard before but also things I haven't. Keep making these video's and I'll keep watching 'em. Be safe.

Hello Tinman thank u for these videos. An thank you for your time and help. Hope everything is well with you and your family.

You are doing great things here. Keep up the great work. I look forward to every new video you put out.

I run my 2 stroke motorcycles at .025 squish . It moves the flame front away from the piston edges for slightly more time keeping the piston in better shape . This does require higher octane fuel to stave off pre detonation

Very interesting ! Can you please post a video on how make a gasket with RTV silicone ? Quantity to use, time to wait before assembling etc

im digging the snow thrower starter handle ive been seeing, cheers

Just found your channel and you explain 2 stroke timing very well. I love 2 strokes!!! I was looking up info on base gasket delete. I wanted the info for one lunger vintage snowmobile racing, where everything has to be stock no mods. This will give me some info so I can experiment with base gasket and head gasket thickness.

Good job with that cutaway so we can understand what your talking about!!!

you get a kudos for this one great job keep it going and thank you for your time !!!!!!

The little mistakes generates understanding, when one takes the time to figure it out.

Great video Tin Man. Good info and explanation on the squish on the saw.

You are an excellent teacher. Thank you very much.

Thank you. I'm trying to figure out which saw I'm going to do.

Great video Tinman 👍! Loving the cut away series, now we can see what's going on in the professor's brain lol. Keep up the great work 👍👍💪💪😁!

Brilliant video again buddy, thanks for all the info and making it easier to understand :)

AWESOME tutorial!!!! I gained knowledge and thats what I set out to do! Thank you VERY much!!!~

Great production 👍👍😊Really enjoyed this!

Great information great video great content for a upcoming guy working on chainsaws

He just had a 200T Motoseal failure. It can happen and he goes over the rebuild.

Fantastic video, thank you very much, greetings from Ireland. Looks like I am going to be spending a lot of time here, stay safe, john

you are teaching me so much man. quick question, when you measured squish, it looked like the top of the cylinder wasn't exactly flat in the area where the piston rests at TDC. the cylinder casting looked wavy. Therefore, do you measure the squished solder at the most narrow portion to ensure the piston doesn't hit when at TDC? In your cutaway example, I would think the solder would be squished unevenly because the cylinder casting was uneven. thank you

Thanks Tin man you make it very interesting been watching all your videos helps a lot 👍

Amature's- no, the numbers do not have to match! To exaggerate for understanding: the ONLY TIME the difference would be THE SAME IS :when the intake and exhaust ports were at the exact same distance from top. The reason is!!!!!.... it will take the most angular rotationof the crank to achieve/move the piston the same linear amount at top and bottom of the stroke. Get it? At 90° and 270° it is one to one but changes, the further away you get from there. Edit: Exceptions would be if the exhaust was like 88° (2° before 90,) and maybe the intake was 92°- (2° After 90°) because the rotation angles/linear piston travel "ratios" would be exactly the same. Like a "corollary" or angles-

I enjoyed the background music 🎶…nice!

This vid is a banger ty Tinman ur a brilliant teacher.

Alright Tinman, you have me on the train with you. So far I have modded my J-red 590 muffler and matched and opened lower transfers. It pulls full comp 20” chain thru 18” maple sweetly. Thanks for your guidance but I can’t stop there so the gasket will go. After that the exhaust will be raised. Looking for more saws to play with. I am hooked.

Glad I came across this. I have now subscribed. I was wanting to learn more about a base gasket delete. The cut away was a great idea. I'll have to watch the first two videos. I have a jonsered 801 that ran a few years ago and the recoil spring let go. Then I got mad and put the saw away for a few years lol. I have 3 other saws I use for various things. Recently I have decided to get the 801 going. Figured I may as well give it some top end love. Going to home the cylinder and get new rings. Tinman if you know a good place to get some 52mm rings id appreciate the insight. I think the 801 may be a good saw to practice something like this on as well. I will have to check the squish and see. Thinking I will film it. Thanks for all the great info!

I'm a newbie to saw ownership and use yet I find this information fascinating. I'd love to be able to tinker with my vintage Stihl 024AVS but I just don't feel acclimated to it yet.

Totally 💯 grateful thank you Tinman!!!

Super nice video, thanks for sharing your knowledge and being chill and not a snob to us rookies that are just trying to learn.

The inches of piston travel vs degree of crank travel change as the crank turns. You will have less in/deg near top and bottom, and more in/deg near the middle.

Great informational video keep them coming!!

I really enjoy your vids, good work and info.

More great info buddy! Keep em coming!👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏

your discrepency in timing comes from your original exaust timing measurement of 101 degrees it shouldve actually been 99 degrees

Best Video ive seen about base gasket delete. One question would it hurt if u widen the exhaust port?

Your doing a hell of a job bud. Super!!

love your videos, I race modified hydroplanes, using older two stroke 50 horse mercurys, we port the heck out of them and also stretch our rods .030", we cant delete our gaskets

Keep on kicking ass!!!! Love it!!!

I get the moto seal at tractor supply here in N.Y. only place I've ever seen it till I seen your channel.my favorite sealer.I play with all 2 strokes gotta have it.Lol. Lol.

I'm loving this series with the cut away, but I don't understand why you claim that if you lose 2 degrees on exhaust you must gain 2 degrees on intake. The vertical displacement of the piston isn't the same with every degree of rotation. Eg, the piston moves the most per degree at 90 degrees BTDC and ATDC, and barely moves at all in a single degree at TDC or BDC. So if you move the exhaust port closer to the 90 degree point and the intake farther away... it seems possible that you could lose 2 degrees on exhaust but gain 3 on intake. Because the piston is moving farther per degree as it approaches the exhaust, but less per degree as it starts to uncover the intake.

Love the content as always tinman. I've got a 154 husky im gonna build in stages. With your info thanks man.

Great stuff enjoying very much. Thanks

love the cut away vids

Very good explanation. Keep up the good work. Be safe, Be good, Be kind, Trust GOD.

Tinman, Have you ever done a base gasket delete on a 372XP X-torque? Any heat issues due to it being a strato saw? What if the Permatex gets in the crank case? P.S. The cut away is awesome! Many thanks.

You do great work! I run some 50s and 60 macs

I have a Stihl: MS-261c, 201tc, and 500i. All new with less than ten tanks in them. Really only contemplating the 261. What would i see the most safe gains from? Not looking for a race saw, just reliable long term power for work applications

To me it would be better to do a pop up piston leave exhaust timing/port alone except for port matching gaskets and cleaning and lowering the intake port a smidge and not have to worry about wrecking the plating where the rings contact the port like on exhaust!

Lots of great info, thx! Question tho on loosi g the rpms. Can you delete the gasket and then raise the exhaust roof and not loose the rpms and still keep the better compression? Or is it one or the other?