Can the 2020 Corolla 1.6 engine be replaced with a 1.8 . engine?

Exactly! These cars are a joy.

Hopefully the install will be easy too. Cheers!

Agreed. On bigger jobs, when I start seeing a pile of clutter, I’ll stop to put tools away.

As engine swaps go, this one is pretty easy. They always take time (or money for labor) but this car is doable at home.

Very true. Also having the trans out made this go really quick.

@@ToolDemos And having those good helpers !

Thanks for your question, Chasen. Very few manufacturers include lift points on their engines. If you look at service data most manufacturers will recommend using a special service tool that attaches to the engine so that you can lift it properly. I’ve never purchased any of those special tools and I’ve never heard of anyone I know buying them either. That’s why I didn’t include a ‘how to’ guide for attaching the hoist. One end of the chain I just wrapped around the front engine mount and attached it back to itself using a threaded link. The other end, I bolted to the engine using one of the bell housing bolts. (Make sure the bolt is long enough to properly engage enough threads, or use a longer bolt.) So, that’s how not to do it. Check your service manual for the proper tools/technique. Happy wrenching!

@@ToolDemos LOL I love learning how to do things the Tim the toolman Taylor way as much as the proper way. Thank you so much for taking some of your time out to reply to my comment. The 1zzFE is no exception in the department of not having hangers pre-installed. To anyone reading along - the 1zzFE can make use of two hangers (hooks) which bolt somewhere onto the engine where the hoist and leveler will connect to them. Part numbers are 12281-22021 and 12281-15040. The problem I have is, I'm not exactly sure where they bolt into. The little service manual drawing on page EM-78 looks like it's hooked onto some kind of hose which would be silly. It just says to disconnect the PCV hoses and the cylinder head cover, and "install the 2 engine hangers in the correct direction." I was hoping to find a close up shot somewhere on the internet on where those two connection bolt holes would be in the engine. Evidently doing an exploded diagram of this would have killed Toyota way back in the day.

Did you have to take the transmission out or did you leave it in?

@@EDWIN-sv7ny I'll have to let you know when I do the job. We've been traveling one week after the next for a month. Plus, the sellers haven't been forthcoming about answering my cylinder compression test questions. Thus, I haven't gotten to purchase the engine, let alone install it. I won't be pulling the old engine out until I have the new engine to put in. Do it all at the same time (to avoid losing nuts and bolts etc). Now as of today ebay is charging sales tax which has tacked on another $100 bucks to all the 1ZZ's I've been looking at. So that sucked to find out. From other video's I've watched though, they've all taken the transmission out with the engine. I've had to remove my transmission twice before, so I think I can see why they do it that way. It's just going to be easier to put an engine leveler on your hoist and angle the engine so it can come out of the bay. I bought a 4 ton (overkill) leveler on ebay for $50. I think they sell 2 ton levelers at Harbor freight, but they were $44, so I just paid the extra 6 bucks (and free shipping) to get something I can use with more weight later if the need arises. So, my plan is to take the transmission out while it's still bolted to the engine.

@@EDWIN-sv7ny if you’re pulling the engine from the top, it’ll be faster to leave the transmission in place.

That should be fun. Happy wrenching.

I swapped the 5 speed out for the 6 speed, same engine. Almost everything was the same.

Thanks, I appreciate that. I posted a 2 min video about that knob upgrade. That vid has the link in the description. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h9eKgMmLqZ6qZ40.html

@@ToolDemos Ahhh… I totally missed it looking through your channel. Thank you again, keep up the good work. P.S. would it be possible to remove the 1ZZ without disconnecting the AC? I have a 2008 Corolla S I’m debating removing the engine on to do some maintenance on. But I really would like to avoid opening up the AC system, if possible. It looks as though the compressor could possibly be moved out of the way while the engine is being hoisted up. I’m probably wrong though.

Right, it does look like you can move the compressor towards the right front headlight area. I haven’t tried it, but as long as you’re careful to move the hose on the engine’s way out, I don’t see a problem with it.

Hi, Toheeb. Which gasket do you want to replace?

I need to change piston rings.

@@EDWIN-sv7ny that’s a pretty big job. I hope all goes well.

Three things, Spock: 1: Most sellers can tell you the mileage of the donor car - which can give you a decent idea of the health of the transmission. 2: Have a look at the fluid. It should be a pretty, golden color and have very little metal (glitter) in it. Also smell it - it should not have a burned smell. 3: A good seller will offer a warranty. It may only be 30-90 days, but enough to know if the component is healthy.

@@ToolDemos Thanks again for the advice. 👍

Hi Jeff, if you ever considered doing an engine swap, this car would be a pretty good start. You need very few ‘special’ tools, and most things are easy to get to.

That’s true, you could leave the AC compressor and the power steering pump in the vehicle and pull the engine without it.

Hi Brandon. I would avoid using anything that could introduce dust or particles. The tubing inside an evaporator are tiny and easily clogged. Instead of a paper towel, maybe just a plastic bag as a cover and zip-tie it on.

@@ToolDemos alright sweet thank u mate!!

I apologize for missing your question, but the answer is 11 to 14 hours depending on what parts you have to swap.

Yes, that would be easier.

Thanks TALLMAN.

You can pull the engine by itself, leaving the transmission in the car. It’s pretty easy. I know I did it weird in this video, but watch the transmission removal video to get an idea of how to unhook it from the engine. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mq53gKmc3M-WmoU.htmlsi=HL_17Y-6n7XN2_cX

Transmission removal took me about 4 hours start to finish.

Sorry Spock, I wish I could, but I have no experience buying JDM engines.

@@ToolDemos No problem at all. Thanks again for the excellent step by step video. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

@@callmebackfriday2 thank you. Merry Christmas.

I used some plugs from a kit I bought on Amazon. It’s a silicone rubber cap and plug set.

I appreciate that, thank you.

Thanks David

Hi Aldo, generally speaking yes the engine will fit. Overall the engine is the same but because they are from two different years you could have minor differences. The best thing to do is to keep your old engine until you’re sure that everything works fine. You might have to pull a sensor from your old engine so that it works with your existing wiring harness. Good luck with your swap.

Hey Brett. Yeah, the transmission came out in the previous video, sorry. To answer your question: Yes, they will come out together, just lift the front of the engine out first, then they both come out at an angle. No, the top bolts go through the trans and thread into the engine, the bottom bolts are the opposite.

Toyota has a few different engine options for Corolla. You are likely to have the 2ZR-FE 1.8 liter. The 2016 might be a 2ZR-FAE 1.8 liter that would physically fit, but your PCM would not be able to control it. In that case you would need at least the PCM and harness from the 2016. Possibly other network devices as well. If they are both the same engine code things are less complicated. If you do the swap, keep your old engine. You may need parts from it to fit your original harness or to make the PCM happy.

@@ToolDemos Thank you for your prompt reply!!

Without experience trying a swap like that, I can only guess. I’d say that as long as the 1.8 you get is a ZR series engine, it could work. You will probably need to swap PCMs as well.

Hi, No Name. You question is a bit tricky because you have a few options. 1: Remove and Replace entire running engine, without swapping over any parts is quickest, and would be 6-7 hours. 2: R&R engine, but transfer accessories and fuel/ignition, add about 3 hours. 3: R&R engine long block, add about 4 more. 4: R&R short block, add about 2 more (plus machine work) Once you decide what you want, your shop can give you a firm quote. I hope this helps.

@@ToolDemos yeah coincidentally my mechanic called me as you commented and he found a 1zzfe for $600 and the labor shouldn't cost more than $1000 I believe. I got lucky

@@ToolDemos 6 or 7 hours would be amazing. my mechanic gives me the best rates in the country

That sounds pretty reasonable. You’ll also see a few incidental charges, like fluids, lubricants and refrigerant.

Engine + transmission was about 5 hours to get ‘em out. You could probably do better, it takes longer when you’re recording.

That thing would move!