We're replicating this style of minimum breaking strength / MBS test here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hshynMp-3rGuiXU.html Shout out to @HowNot2. Sometimes like with lasers and stun guns we only barely get into topics you guys have requested that channels like these have become leaders in. Head on over there to more learn more about carabiners and climbing gear in general! Here's more stock photo shots from that day: www.dreamstime.com/photos-images/mountain-climbing-anchor.html

This is the strangest How Not 2 video I've ever seen.

A wise man once said "spend as little as possible on equipment where your life is at risk"... Right before plunging to his death

It'd be interesting see how shock loading vs the gradual application of force affects the results.

The “slap the carabiner in the palm of your hand” out-of-the-box quality test was the most valuable to me.

I was taught that if you are using a non-locking carabiner, you should use two and face the gates in opposite directions so if you bumped into something both gates would not open.

I regularly wear fall-arrest equipment for work: massive steel carabiners, heavy nylon harnesses, and thick lanyards. I'm curious to see how they would hold up in these tests.

Would've been interesting to see what happened to the steel one if you kept loading after the gate broke. Some of the failures were catastrophic and would certainly result in loss of function, but some of the gate failures would still have held some kind of load.

Seems hownot2 came up a lot here but having more data from another source seems like a good thing to me. Consider a collaboration tho, it only helps the channels and spread the information.

HowNot2 stares unapprovingly 😂 This video is super good enough tho 😅

The Carabiners we used on our fall arrest safety harnesses were rated at 54 kn (costed about $100 each). They had a threaded gate, so when secured, the gate was affixed to the rest of the carabiner through a thread collet. Not saying I would want a stack of them on my hip while climbing, but it's nice to know that the harness was way over built.

I’m no EXPERT but I have professional climbing experience as well as rope access training, and I’d just like to say thank you for making this video. While there are a few minor technical mistakes (mainly dealing with fall factors and the nuances of kilonewtons vs static lbs), I really appreciate you making videos like this. There aren’t many high quality videos that actually show the dangers of mislabeled and sketchy carabiners, and the language that is used around them. Especially showing how a well engineered aluminum carabiner far out performs a cheap steel one. One thing I’d like to suggest in future tests would be to have the connection to the carabiner be a soft connection, as most are rated to perform only with a certain diameter piece of hardware going through them, which is often webbing or rope. Obviously this is not how they will be used all the time in the real world, but it may help to standardize the physics around the connection. Loved your videos and I really appreciate everything you all do!

Would love to see some pro brands represented up here for reference. I'm thinking Petzl, Fusion Climbing, DBI Sala. Back when I was a climber for radio towers, we were moving almost exclusively to the auto double or triple lock style of carabiners. The wire and screw lock types weren't allowed to be used for personal safety at all.

The black diamond one is the only brand name that I recognize from when I used to go climbing, and the only one of these that seem like I would ever consider actually climbing with them or loading them for actual WORK would be the twist locks

Honestly surprised the wire clasp part didn’t break or pull on any of them, I’d think the wire was weaker then the aluminum but tests like these always teach me something new.

Still wouldn't use an unknown brand, though. Even if a few specimen tested good, it's all about consistency.

So happy to see How Not 2 being referenced so much. Hopefully Ryan can collab together with him. Although TTC doesn't have a slack snap machine, testing the metal on metal is at least interesting. It's something to compare/contrast data.

I dont know if its the dulcet tones of your voice, the occassional, subtle humor, and/or the actual science/testing you do for all things, but, despite the fact ill never climb anything with said caribeeners, here i am.

"remember kids, the only difference between screwing around and science is writing it down"

The Black Diamond "Neutrino" (looks to be the model tested) are incredible carabiners! Ive used two of them to pull a stuck vehicle from deep snow and zero damage

The Black Diamond interested me the most, because I have their poles. It’s cool to see how strong their aluminum standards are.

Awesome test as always guys! Can you do a follow up video with branded climbing and safety gear from the larger known manufacturers like Petzl? Testing the strength on the hooking points on the climbing gear etc. has also been super useful. Since I really want to know how strong my work and climbing safety gear really is.

This is quickly becoming my favorite channel. You guys always provide high quality information on products not normally covered by other KZfaqrs.

You guys should really test some bicycle/ mountain biking lights. Brands like NiteRider, Outbound Lighting, knog, Bontrager, or the crazy 12000 lumen Moneer by MagicShine would be a great place to start!

You know it is going to be a wild ride when the ultra cheap chinese one not only meets its claims, but vastly exceeds them. I actually like these cheap aluminium ones, as keyrings. Very convenient to clip on and off a beltloop. That said, does look like I could actually use them for far more than that.

Carabeaners for climbing or fall arrest purposes used at my work come with actual test sheets, and they do fall under the lifting appliance regime so these certificates are on file, and they are pull tested accordingly. One is seriously rolling the dice using uncertified lifting/climbing gear hanging their weight or expecting fall restraint to happen. Thanks TTC for the video as this helps brimg awareness of this issue to the masses.

"$5 Death Wish" is my favorite metalcore band

i would say given their possible use in climbing you should test multiple samples of each brand for consistency, as it only tskes 1 bad one to cauae somone to have a very bad day

Yessss! So glad you’re testing these. I watch a channel called “how not to” and he tests climbing equipment to breaking. So cool to watch stuff tested to failure. Thanks TTC! ❤️ 🙏

I have those unijoy brand carabineers for basic stuff around the house. They hold a hammock, heavy tool bag, or potted plant just fine. And were super cheap when i found them on sale, I paid like $2 per piece. Glad to see they hold up as advertised.

That stock photo is really something interesting. For one, it's a via ferrata, so their main safety is through the (in this picture) yellow-black lanyard, the rest is only there to make a possible fall more comfortable/less risky (majorly simplified). While I agree not screwing a carabiner shut if it has that option, it's again clipped into a quickdraw, which doesn't even have that lock to begin with. Which, because of that other lanyard, is actually fine. Wo while they're definitely some strange things going on in that image, the screwgate isn't really that large of an issue. And for anyone looking to get into rock climbing, please only get properly rated gear, it should have UIAA and CE markings (and I think the minimum is a 20kN rating) EDIT: The gate open rating refers to the actual gate, the bar, being open (meaning there's lever action going on), the screw doesn't really add much strength (or shouldn't anyways)

Another fantastic video. With each test you guys perform, you are providing a wealth of information rarely found elsewhere. That and the discussion during the video is very funny.

I seriously thought hownot2 had posted

“from a lightweight aluminum grocery bag holder looking thing” is the most hilarious description of a carabiner that I’ve ever heard of x 10 and I’ve head all kinds of hilarious comments climbing and instructing over the years. Going to have to steal this phrase because it’s too funny to forget.

Future Suggestion - The abundance of hyped LED work lights available now from the aftermarket world that clip directly only standard batteries such as M18 / Dewalt / Blue Gang etc.... nice compact worklight idea but I think they are shooting the moon on lumens and also might not all over over-discharge protection for Li-Ion batteries. Love the value of your work and also the salty comments zingers :) be well.

I was hooked on this vid. Got roped into watching the whole thing. I was really pulling for the cheapo brands.

I have that oupeng sky one for attaching stuff to backpacks and also for weighted pull-ups. It always felt solid, glad to see it over performed when pushed (or pulled in this case) to the limit

Id like to see shock loading. You could load a steel cable rig with ur enerpac with a trigger pin to simulate a fall. The elasticity of some of these shows it's ability to absorb impacts vs a static load. I maybe totally wrong about plasticity vs a more rigid material. Good video!

You guys are easily one of my favorite KZfaq channels. Keep up the good work!

For the stock photo that was used, that was not rock climbing so the safety part is not quite as severe. That was on a via ferrata, where they have a guide wire attached to them and are walking/climbing on man made objects in the rock itself. It looks like they wanted it to look more like he was climbing, so he had attached to a QuickDraw (two carabiners with a strong fabric connecting them) in the wall and posed like he was helping someone. That’s in addition to his connection to the wire and most likely standing on rebar. Open carabiner is a big concern, but it looks like that was never an actual part of the safety system he was actually using.

For a little insight into the stock photo you used, the climber is doing a route called a Via ferrata which is essentially a fully protected route where you mainly climb on metal holds which have been added to the rock, and it looks like he is at a belay station using a Petzl GriGri assisted braking belay device to belay up another climber. The locker on his GriGri should definitely be closed for added safety but when belaying up your second climber the most forces that carabiner is likely to see is around 1kn.

I like how your someone who really doesn't understand a lot of this like myself, and its nice to see and actual test, to show what they can actually hold even if its not climbing safe its still good to know what their capable of.

Loved this testing regime and the fun but valuable commentary.

Stock photo also has the wire clips saddled backwards on the upper eye of the cable. Oh, and it looks like there is an energy absorber that is generally only supposed to hook up to the dorsal D hooked up on the front of the harness. There is a lot going on there.

Interesting and a fun departure from tools. Thanks!

Yall are amazing!! I love all the the testing!!! Keep it up!!

As a professional tree serviceman, this test was FANTASTIC! Thank you so much for this. I risk my life every day with these "klikoneutron" stamped carabiners while having no idea what that means. Forces in pounds are easily understood. Metric is garbage.

The commentary is always perfect in these videos

You should test tower climbing carabiners next. Would prefer actual steel ones that are auto lock/auto close.

one of the times seeing a product do much higher than it is rated for is a relief and shows industry integrity.

your stock photo shows two separate carabiners without their retainers secured over the clip. So he is a true daredevil

I love how you kept going back throughout the video and roasting the guy in the stock photo😂

Thanks for this video. I am very surprised that these devices didn’t fail to meet their claims, similar to the Amazon flashlights. I have purchased 5 or 6 of them. I used a locking carabiner to pull a drag harrow through a pasture with a tractor (not what it’s designed for) and was surprised to find it only had the anodized finish marred.

Fascinating! Thanks for this test.

i think it heavily matters where your contact points are. for example the riozoiu seemed like the pulling rings were exerting force in a different direction than most other carabiners. the pulling ring on the right, locked into the curve of the riozoiu

I climbed for a number of years in college and I can tell you that z clipping like that guy that fell in your video is terrifying Love that you set this up!!!

I think that testing various brands of breaker bars would be a nice thing to see. On that same note, extended ratchets (e.g. 18" 3/8" ones) since a lot of people use them as surrogate breaker bars. It would be nice to see what type of breaker bar has drive ends that are more durable, which ones flex the most/least when actually having torque applied to them, and all of that in reference to how big the actual head of the bar itself.

Thanks for sharing hope everyone had a great thanksgiving

"Don't be stupid" - first and much-needed belly-laugh of the day...

Good work and good call out. Keep it up please.

This is one of those channels that’s going to have videos made about its legacy on KZfaq in 10 years.

Nice test. It would be interesting to compare with the brand name products for the second round.

One nice thing about some of them is that the failures weren't catastrophic, such as only losing the lip that holds the latch but not actually deforming enough to readily lose your ropes.

When they say "Rope Sports" they aren't just trying to dodge being listed as actual climbing gear but also trying not to get labeled as bondage gear which in most storefronts would be classified as "Adult Products" and thus something that wouldn't be allowed.

Probably elsewhere in the comments but as a ceramic engineer have you thought about the point-loading of the stresses from your eyebolts as opposed to rope to distribute the load a little? Also more situationally representative fwiw.

To trust Amazon carabiners is how you win a Darwin award

1:57 the misspelled "caranbiner" in the search really got me.

Love this! Would be interested in Metroleus if you do it again. Here's another suggestion: vehicle recovery gear (tow straps, kinetic energy ropes, soft and hard shackles...)

I didn’t know i needed this. Thank you

Really like this style of video!

mode of failure is very important to me... some had a designed point of failure and some did NOT! There should Always be a designed point of failure with the rest of the structure remaining intact, so inspection and precautions can be taken.

What a great test. I have some el cheapo ones, but I bought black diamond wire gates from a sporting goods store as they were the cheapest name brand ones I could find. I figured the name brand bought some safety and it certainly seems like they did well.

Just to clarify: the non-locking carabiners are used for carrying gear and in quick-draws (two carabiners connected with a strap) which you use when lead climbing (bolted routes) or natural climbing (non-bolted routes). In all other cases like belay points and main anchor points you'd use locking carabiners and preferable two of them and with their gates on opposing sides. The dude in the stock photo is an accident waiting to happen, he should have closed the gate and used two carabiners.

Not surprised and very comforting that Black Diamond came out on top.

Funny I was just looking at Carabiners (not for rock climbing but tethering to a tower for Christmas Decorations. Thanks for the heads up on the prefered choices

wow, another new dyno, you guys are killing it!

Had to modify an engine hoist one time but i bought double action snap hooks because I didn't trust carabiners since I had no rope experience outside of my stint in the service. Would be interesting to see if they were actually that much more strong

Will you guys consider testing 12v off road winches next? I know I don’t trust HF’s ratings!

I guess I shouldn’t worry I only use those to hold my keys. Good stuff. Keep it up.

Good to know I can tow my car with the Black Diamond carabiner I got to clip keys to my belt loop!

Already loving this series. Surprising results for sure! Makes me wonder if there are high end versions that are overpriced for what they do. I imagine there are other pieces of a climbing rig that could vary greatly!

I love how I am not subscribed but I'm just feeding on your content the last few months now lol

Video suggestion: can you test Crane rigging slings and straps? I recently bought multiple links, nylon, lifting, slings, and also some metal lifting slings off Amazon. It seems like a company named Vevor is the best option, so that’s mostly what I went with. Thank you for all the great information and video content.

Glad to know, I have been using black diamond carabiners for a few years. That’s awesome! 33kN! I loved em anyways and now I love ‘em more

great video would love to see some snatch blocks w/ hooks tested!

dat flex with the ray ban glasses :D. ...and then the 10k camera, hahaha. nice!

I think what is missing from your vid is the engineering, quality control and assurance that goes into the known brand carabiners that you trust your life to. The knock off ones have little of that, so you never know if you got one from a bad batch etc

Would love to see higher KN rated steel carabiners put through this test! I work as an uprigger for the local IATSE union, and we use steel carabiners pretty frequently in our line of work. Safety is number 1! Thanks!

I would still love to see what that very odd “new” m18 2666 is good for. Just for fun I’d also love to see some of the low budget offerings from the various brands like the Milwaukee 2663 or 2659. Lastly I think it would be hella cool to test some old school impact guns just to see how far they’ve come. Like the Snap On NiMh powered guns or the first gen Ingersoll lithium with the huge but lightweight twist in lithium packs. Assuming you couldn’t find NOS guns, I know accurate testing would be impossible as all the guns would be used but I still think it would be really cool to see. I’ve got some the aforementioned Ingersoll in both 1/2 and 3/8 and the last of the NiMh snap on 3/8 gun. They’re yours to borrow if you ever consider doing a throwback test like this.

I work in a test lab and use tension/compression testers almost every day. Instron is the big name in that world. The instron universal testers have a open frame allowing you to test any size product, will graph force & displacement (stretch) automatically, has adjustable speed, and have seemingly unlimited settings to automatically capture any data points you’re looking for. They are on the pricey side, but you can find used testing equipment pretty easily on the internet and get big discounts. I liked your new sphere tester for the flashlights and figured you might be interested in more “official” style testing equipment as you dive into new product categories. Keep up the good work, love the channel!

i didnt expect this but im here for it. dont even need it but watched the whole thing haha. would love to see small horns tested(motorcycle/side by side size) so we can upgrade our motorcycle horns for safety

Would like to see a much larger sample size per-unit here. Another channel did this test as well and the cheaper brands were inconsistent.

Do you know if the carabiner tests have an (iso?) standard of testing where they use non-malleable contact points (Such as metal eyelets as in your test) or malleable contact points (As in a dyneema rope or similar connected to the carabiner as an interim media, avoiding metal on metal contact). I ask because the malleable contact points will distribute the load over the molded contour along the interior of the carabiner, while the non-malleable will apply the pressure on the initial and much smaller interior contact points until the carabiner deforms against the steel eyelet. This difference may be significant enough to introduce micro-fractures during deformation and change the load results. I'm not a climber, just a pilot with an engineering degree, but I thought I would toss this out there for consideration of a future test for rope vs eyelet load bearing deltas. Thanks.

Every rock climber I've been around follows the rule "if your life depends on it, use a locking caribiner"

As soon as I saw Black DIamond come up I figured it was going to wipe the floor with all those Amazonian suppliers.

Along these same lines, a rope test would be great. There's plenty of cheap rope on Amazon making hefty claims.

Really nice. Thank you for testing. But can you do another one with authentic grade carabiners like ok, hms, and so one from petzl, skylotec, edelrid and so on? That would be very interesting. Also in comparison with these amazon ones. thanks man.

Honest comment: i work in aerospace designing tools (not power tools but custom tooling - think assembly tooling, test tooling, machine fixturing ext.. we do work with modifying some existing tools like wrenches and soem power tools as well) Regardless, i worked on a project where we wanted to use a carribeaner to hold a 50lb housing. It was aluminum and rated hundreds of pounds (i dont remember the #, maybe 1500lbs?). The operator refused to use it saying aluminum was dangerous.... We sent it out to be tested and it hit 30% higher than advertised. The iperator still saidnit was too dangerous because it would 100% break... I still have nightmares over that guy and the giant custom fixture i had to design for him... That never got used because he got fired....

Very Helpful for me since I want to become an arborist

Locking gate carabiners don't add to strength when locked so long as the gate is closed. If you look at the opening you will see it doesn't have a notch for the gate to snap into, it just closes on a spring and a cylinder screws over it so it can't open. Some you have to manually screw shut, some have a rotating cylinder that snaps locked automatically.