You're absolutely right. After I made this I went and looked and I have the one on the drivers side towards the rear of the block. I looked it up and sure enough. I didn't even know! That's one thing I never had to even deal with on these motors yet. Fingers crossed! Thanks Dan!! Anyone wondering, Dan has your info. Pinned to the top!

any major issues?

Ahh good tip I didn't know that. And yeah the aisins are the way to go!

Just solid, classy, durable rigs! I sometimes get people knocking on my door wanting to buy mine. I just ask a ridiculous price for it lol.

THank you so much!! I appreciate that. More coming up!

Thanks for watching!! Enjoy your rig!

Nope, I got it maybe 12 years ago, or a little more? I'm keeping mine forever too, they just don't make em like this anymore. I'm not a fan of modern stuff....to big, too posh, and too complicated. Good luck with yours!

I'm surprised yours was single core from the factory! Sounds like a perfect upgrade!

Great! Keep it. Those things are worth money now!

@@AgileWoodsman thank you

Yeah some years had a recall, early years part way through 92 I believe. Later ones were correct from the factory. Have fun with your toy! Yeah keep up on maintaining it and you'll have loads of fun!

De nada! And muchas gracias! I do too. This is the best car I've ever owned as far as ruggedness and durability.

THanks for the sub! Enjoy your 2nd gen, it's just getting broken in!!

Even without an external leak it's best to figure out where that oil is going. Does the exhaust smell like burnt oil? I'd probably do a compression and leak down test for starters, make sure the piston rings are good. Next maybe valve guides. Also this motor can have sneaky external leaks, like the oil cooler towards the back of the block on the drivers side. Thicker oil is a last resort. Let us know if you find anything!

@@AgileWoodsman Thanks for the reply. Yeah this is a tricky one but like I mentioned before, no external leak I can see, (even took it to a trusted mechanic of mine) no smell of burning oil or anything. The compression rating was good too. I had the PCV valve changed so hopefully I'll see an improvement in the next few hundred miles or so. Thank you for the advice and keep it up. Us 2nd generation owners need you lol 😄

It's hard to say without being there to test things. I wouldn't assume that you need a new computer yet. At 15 degrees it's very likely to ping, so that's normal. I'm wondering if they are doing the procedure correctly. Warming the engine up to operating temp. Turning it off. Jumping the right pins. Then starting it up and checking the timing that way.

@@AgileWoodsman the thirty-year-old distributor original Denso traded it as a core and got a rebuilt. That got me a little nervous. Because the original distributor work but it was Rusty there was water in the engine

@@tonyisme4934 A distributor issue might be a problem but unlikely. If you remove it give the shaft a wiggle and see if there is play in it.

Check for vacuum leaks for sure. Also the cold start injector. And low power up hills is normal for these to be honest. Also as always, basic maintenance. Fresh, clean air filter (I had a dirty one that killed my power once) plugs, cap, rotor, etc.

Definitely check what agile woodsman said. Also double check that the Throttle Position Sensor is in spec, you just need a multimeter. While you’re in there replace the rubber o-ring for the idle adjustment screw. You can find instructions in a FSM online

@@Verywell15 Thanks Avery!

@@AgileWoodsman my 92 sr5 has 190 lbs on the right side and 140 on the left. Top end was rebuilt 3 k miles back . Rebuilder says not my fault. Service center says not sure what it is. Any best guess would be appreciated.

@@garyvandeputte4047 I got you on the other video!

Yeah man, mine was doing that, and I found a vacuum leak, a crack in the air hose going from the filter to the throttle body. So maybe check for vacuum leaks first, all that rubber is getting old now! It also might be a sensor reacting to heat soak, but I'd go simple first.

@@AgileWoodsman thanks for the reply! Keep up the good work.

I got the same problem

Thanks for watching! I like your idea but that's more ambition than I have..... If I ever need to do it, I'll film it. Are you sure you need to take the manifold off? I'd double check that.

@@AgileWoodsman I believe so I have code 25,26,41.

Yeah it could be vapor lock. I've also seen sensors stop working when they get hot...like they are getting ready to fail but not quite there yet. I would check vapor lock and electrical. It can be time consuming unfortunately.

@@AgileWoodsman which sensors would you recommend checking first? I know most are a bear to get to.

You are so welcome!

Hard to say, could be lots of things. But I always like to start off simple. It sounds like lack of fuel or the timing is just way way off. I would check the fuel filter. Just change it. After that fuel pressure at the injector rail. Also if it hasn't had a good tune up in a long time, check the spark plugs, cap and rotor. Also plug and coil wires. Sometimes they can arch out to ground in strange ways.

Yeah I think I've got a small valve cover leak as well. Not looking forward to fixing that. Yeah gaskets, PCV valve, and there are several sensors at the back of the motor under the manifold. The most common one to give trouble is the knock sensor. It's under the plenum right in the middle of the block. I'm not even 100% sure you can get to it with just the manifold off but worth a look. www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/63293-knock-sensor-location.html

@@AgileWoodsman can you do a video on the knock sensor please? My comes on sometimes and it boggs down.

Yeah wow that's a long time ago. I'd probably err on the side of caution and do it anyway, even though it's only got 30k on it. Better safe than sorry?

Keep everything lubed, greased, fluids changed. Extended maintenance stuff on real old cars can sometimes mean bushings, rubber vacuum hoses, stuff that doesn't really wear out quickly but can deteriorate with age. Get the radiator looked at by a shop just for fun. Mine worked but was just not doing a good job and was close to failing. The new one made a huge difference. Awesome that you are keeping that one in the family!!!

Yeah front suspension, and then there are several on the drive shafts, both on the slip joints and the double cardan joints, or double U joints. You might have to jack the axle up and rotate the driveshaft to find them.

Just check and see if the recall was done on yours for the head gasket. But if it's not broke and has been good all this time, why mess with it right? Springs I have no idea. OEM is not available. I know for coils on 4Runners we just typically go with springs from an aftermarket company like Old Man Emu or something. You might be able to find a spring shop (rare these days) that can re arch your springs or add a leaf.

Also with the rust, these frames will most often rust from the inside out. SO maybe give it good flushes on the inside with a garden hose, especially after the road salt season!

Fuel and air filters, tune up if it hasn't been done in a while, and check for vacuum leaks. Also check for codes!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5l5h7ygs6e5hI0.html&ab_channel=PracticalEnthusiast is one option

Honestly, slow. If you live in a flat area you might be ok but hills or mountains won't be fun. And either way you'll be the slowest guy out there.

I bet! No trouble with emissions regs? They are STRICT here in California!

@@AgileWoodsman none of that nonsense regulations here

@@StubbornOffroad Lucky you. That's one of my key criteria for when I move out of here, hopefully once the markets all settle down or make some kind of sense lol.

Yeah definitely. I'd check out the state of the cooling system for starters. Make sure everything is there. It's full of coolant. Make sure the fan is operating properly and the clutch is engaging when it's hot. Inspect all the components, visually, looking for anything obviously broken or wore out. Next make sure the thermostat is operating properly, opening and closing when needed. It might be stuck closed or not opening fully so the coolant isn't circulating to the radiator. Also make sure there is no air in the system by bleeding the cooling system. Also I would do a good cooling system flush. After all these years they can get full of crud in the passages. If you're unsure how to do any of this head to Yotatech.com, lots of how to articles over there! Good luck!

@@AgileWoodsman awesome dude thank you. I've had if almost a year no issues. Sometimes throws a code 52 and drives sluggish. So I plan to change the sensor snd harness. And then timing belt, water pump, thermostat, tensioner, gaskets and I'm thinking valve gaskets as well

A good way to tell the difference between the 2nd and 3rd from behind is the wiper location in relation to the back window. 2nd gen is on top where as 3rd is on bottom.

Ever figure it out

@@mendoblendo321 . Hello . No, in fact things have gotten worse..let me get where I can write details and I would really appreciate your imputv

@@muggyjones5538 yeah dude keep me in the loop. Working on runner tonight all be on the message board

@@mendoblendo321 ... Greetings and hello. I do apologize in the delay in responding to you , however I am in deep mental therapy after time spent trying to solve my 4 runner issues..( ha ha). Here is a quick overview of my accomplishment, failures and current situation. Replaced everything on the top and front of the motor,. In trying to adjust the TPS, and throttle body I have made no progress in getting a consistent idle speed and throttle response. I have monkeyed with the timing 230 times at least thinking that is the issue. ON the rare occasion I can get it started, I have NO power in any gear except first gear * 5 speed manual* when shfting to second and maybe third it stalls and dies if I dont have the RPM wound up over 4000. My task this weekend is to remove the throttle body and go over it again and see what I can find. I am doing a compression test on the cylinders also ad will let you know the results.. It recently had codes of 14, 24. BUT the ignitor seems fine and the MAF checks out within specs.... I drove it 55 miles the other day and used 1/2 tank of fuel.. and never got over 50 miles an hour... NO horsepower at all * except going downhill * THANK you for your time and expertise..

I just run regular old green. I'd just stick with what you have in there. Don't change colors I mean.

@@AgileWoodsman yeah I run green I was thinking about switching to toyota red and doing a whole coolant flush with water and detergents

@@coop_69 Yep just flush it really well like you said!

@@coop_69 I've been reading the red is way better and what we should be running

I've never heard of that method haha!!