A word to the wise - Mark your driveshaft before taking it apart to maintain the BALANCE of the shaft!

Thanks guy! helped me in reassembly. Just replaced mine on the side of the road, not too bad. The bearing nut is 133lbs, back off 1 full turn, then 60lbs, so says the FSM, but gave it about 68 lbs after setting the bearing. And then staked the nut.

Dude your channel has been amazing for fixing things on my Tundra! Every time I search what's going on with my truck I seem to find one of your videos.

Good job on your tundra, less vibration is always a good thing. I bought a cheaper bearing for my 2wd Tacoma and it lasted maybe a year and half. Now I got a better timken brand, hopefully it will be better.

I recently did mine at 470,000km, used a Timken branded part, seems good so far

Awesome video man...gave me the confidence to try this myself on our 85 Toyota Pickup (which is also our home). Wish me luck!

I replaced my control arm and lower and up ball joints and tie rod ends with after market parts hope they last me thank you for the great videos

Mine a 2005 2-wheel drive SR5. Only 124,000 miles, but squeak squeak squeak. I’ve been afraid to take it to Toyota in fear of labor rate sticker shock. Thanks for this, I think I can do this.

Excellent instructions Other Guy . About to do this on a 90 xtracab Toyota. Looks similar and I may be able to drop the rear only as suggested at the end of vid.

Very helpful...one important thing I noticed was when you reattached the splined yoke to the front driveshaft section and then bolted the double cardan joint flange to it, the u-joint loops on the cardan joint flange need to line up with the front u-joint loops on the front driveshaft or it creates an out of phase condition and possible vibration. Just reattach the splined yoke in the proper alignment. You can see this at 24:14 in your video. Thanx for the video.

One of your merch shirts should be “we don’t like crud” lol love the videos man !

just had to replace mine on my tacoma and the center ujoint. had to replace the other two ujoints the following weekend. just replace all 4 while you have the driveshaft out. you'll thank yourself later, i promise. when these start going (probably in a year..way she goes) i'll just be ordering a new one-piece drive shaft with sealed ujoints. barely more than an OEM 2-piece, and less stuff to replace when the time comes.

KOYO was the oem manufacturer for my 06 wheel bearings. They didn’t last very long at all. Replaced them with Timken and they ended up being re-boxed KOYO.

Mark your drive shaft joints first and remember to "stake" that nut before you reassemble the carrier bearing so the nut doesn't walk off the bolt!

Excellent video brother. Thank you for the clear explanations.

21:49 why did you need a space now if you didnt have one the the original one? good video and is the same for a the supra drive shaft?

"I'm not gunna tell you the torque spec because I'm gunna use this 250lb impact gun instead"

The first U joint flange you took off looked really loose. You should mention to check all U joints for play and possible replacement. You marked the 2 ends of the driveshaft but didn't mark the center splined flange. Should have mentioned lining the shaft with your marks. Since the holes that bolt the center bearing to frame are slotted, do you have to adjust how it sits or just hope that it lines up correctly. Just suggestions for novice mechanics. Keep on truckin'...

Ironically, I just greased my 2003 Tacoma original universal joints yesterday. The universals and the center support bearing have no play in them. The rubber in the support bearing still looks like new! My truck has 192,000 miles and this is the first time I greased them.

Doorman seems like a cheaper brand, even with a koyo inner. Might want to go.with the dealer or greaseable timken brand bearing. At this time you may also wanna service that double cardigan and have the entire shaft rebalanced at a shaft shop since you may have lost a weight during wheeling. Great video as always

thank you vi thought it was my U JOINTS but it was my support bracket

Did you mark the shaft where it connects to the carrier bearing? I didn’t do this and now I’m not sure if it matters which way it goes in.

Is the Milwaukee impact gun the 1/2 or the 3/8?

Important!!!!! Dear friends, it has been a year since the Replacement of the OEM unit. The aftermarket unit is failing. Please don't buy aftermarket carrier bearing. I am buying a OEM OEM bearing unit. Will be making another video announcing this.

Yeah I understand your job is good for me.

I like that you clean

Don't have to remove the drive shafts, just the carrier bearing and it will come apart enough to replace

Just a suggestion, don't clean everything with brake cleaner. Use a degreaser that doesn't attack like brake cleaner does. Works super fast but can tear up seals with 1 cleaning.

Is it necessary to remove it from the transmission as you did to remove the whole driveshaft or can I just split it just forward of the carrier bearing and remove it from the rear differential?

Mine looks a lot worse than that. I'm gonna have to replace mine soon. Thanks for the videos.

what size is the extended bolt?

So is it that the support bearing may not be worn out but the rubber bushing that it sits in is? My 2002 Tacoma I notice a good bit of play in the bushing but the bearing seems OK so I guess I should change out the support bearing. its never been changed.

Nice video

Wonder why the thick spacer on the diff side its not supposed to be there

If that center bearing is gone, your transmission mount probably needs replacing at the same time.

Am I the only one who stopped the video to see who tf was mowing my yard 🤔🌿🌱😂

Is that Milwaukee a 1/2 or 3/8 ? Thank you!!

When you installed your (torque spec'd nut) you forgot to take a punch and hit it where the channel is to keep it from backing off.

I have a 2000 Tundra and even if it has only 140,000km on it. I’ve noticed, like you, that mileage isn’t everything. An 18 year old piece of plastic, rubber, steal or whatever eventually wears, rusts or deteriorates with time. It’s sad to see the possible start of a uphill battle but so for now seeing others cling to the truck they love keeps me motivated. I have off-road videos not yet edited. Right now it’s just my CRV on the channel... anyways, what was the symptoms that led you to notice it was due for replacement? Wobble? Noise? Visual inspection when looking at something else? Keep fighting the good fight and make videos. Cheers

Is there supposed to be play in that bearing at all ? an is that hole on it for greasing it ? Thanks

Did your truck make a noise before replacing the support bearing?

So, how long did that part last, I understand only the Toyota brand lasts.

1 question though: Do we like crud?

You need a special tool for this. It's called a hammer. Haha jesus Thanks a lot other guy

What's the front part of drive shaft called

Thank you my friend for your. very helpful video..

Is this the same bearing for the toyota Mark 2 jzx110?

Thank!!

If my truck is making a ticking noise from the driveshaft area could this be the problem? It roughly happens at slow speed and I really need help

Good... 💪💪

Y u yankin on ur grease gun like that? Thats why its leaking broski

I thought you didn’t have to remove the entire drive shaft to do this?

That think is done son.

thank you i thought i had to take the u joints off now i see its not that hard

Did mine already...do not need to remove both driveshafts...not sure why you did.

will this be the same process on my 2008 tacoma off road?

1:52 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣

What's are the symptoms on a bad center support bearing

"because its like been here forever, you need a special tool, its called a hammer"

Hello, my bearing carrier is gone bad. The factor price is over my budget. I want to know how long your carrier last you and should I go for aftermarket carrier and brand? Thnx

Did you grease your yoke

Thank You. sitting with a pad and paper, doin my homework...

Felipe Esparza is that you

1:51 GOOOT EEEMMMM

Thanks Dog

Most times it's recommended to peen the nut after TORQUE to 65 ft/lbs so that nut will back off from the flange spindle

Kung-fu torque?

hello i was just wondering do you have any information on replacing the driveshaft bearings on a 2010 toyota venza?

Good video but i would pump the gun until i see new grease!

Bruh how tf do he just pull the Bearing off without puller 🤯

Deez nutz!!! 😂

koyo made in japa, best in the world

May as well just go with a 1 piece driveshaft. Much smoother and less problems.

Deez nuts

Your hmoob, I can hear you speak..

There is zero reason for you to drop the rear shaft at the back like that at all.

I'm just wondering why you didn't keep pumping the grease gun until you saw the red grease coming out of each bearing surface rather than quitting once you saw the black grease moving and then move on. Seems to me that if I were doing this I'd want to know that the black grease had been fully removed from the joint. I also felt that you skipped a llot of steps by simply describing what you did and I never saw you actually grease the sliding yoke on the back as that has a specific procedure for greasing it that is different from the other lube zerks. Not showing your expertise on how you got all the old grease out of your assemblies seemed lazy to me, as perhaps we all could have learned a better method than what your viewers had at their disposal. Saying that if we don't know how to clean the area, then the job is too tough for us to do is condescending at the very least. Not gonna click the thumbs down and ruin your perfect score, but also not gonna click the thumbs up. Using different height spacers for the carrier bearing is not gonna help the longevity of your new carrier bearing and one wonders why you didn't do this when you installed the 7" lift kit and your viewers may have put two and two together by thinking the lack of spacers may have caused the premature wearing of your carrier bearing in the first place. How are those upper and lower ball joints tolerating that lift kit, especially when the Tundra factory ball joints are a weak design to being with.??