Yes besides using Inox as long as you with excellent results, my friend has been using CRC 6-26 for the same amount of time with similar results. Years ago I mixed graphite and Inox and spread a fair amount around my layout. The result was the ultimate in electrical reliability. (I was using DC at the time). However it caused a significant decrease in traction in my locomotives. I had to remove most of the graphite and Inox to get back reasonable traction. However in last couple of years, my friend using CRC said he had improved results, without much loss in traction by rubbing a graphite bar ( found in Art shops used for sketching) on the track, , and a thin layer of CRC, so I tried rubbing the graphite bar on the track and then applying a thin layer of Inox. I experienced the same improvement in electrical conductivity with only a small loss in traction. I just need to remember to turn the power off when rubbing the graphite bar on the track.

Thank you for your time and effort you put into your videos’ s and your channel, great knowledge and look forward to seeing more of your layout.

THANK YOU...for sharing. Keep plugging away Gregg we enjoy your videos and the time you take to make them. Good stuff.

We just got an HO scale Bachmann train set for our kids this Christmas and after a couple weeks it started having slow spots around the track. After doing a bunch of googling, buying a multimeter, and spending a couple hours trying to figure out what was wrong I stumbled across your video on using a cleaner for electronics. A quick trip to the store for some “contact cleaner” and our train is back to running great. Thank you!

For anyone interested, the UK supplier of Inox is a company called Pendle Slot Racing based in Nelson, Lancashire, and you can buy the stuff via their website.

Scratching my head wondering why? Oh that’s right... because you deserve it! Thanks Gregg. Keep them coming. Cheers Lance

Thank you Greg for another great informative video 👍. I will use the method you suggested in your reply to my comment on the first track cleaning video.

I live alone but have a dream layout that I started back in the seventies and I've eliminated all work from operating a large HO layout. I was shocked that so many people have issues with operating trains!---U-tube! Your all working too hard at it. been sick for three years now and I'm old so the layout hasn't been used! I started back in "54" and had to resolve any issues that came up! The first was minimum track radius. Then trying to keep the brass track of the time clean. Then it was locomotives--------well this going to take some time----good job on your layout!-

Dirty track, and inconsistent running is a huge pet peeve of mine. So I went out and bought CRC here in the states after I saw your video. This stuff works amazingly, there were areas I was having issues with, and it cleared them right up. I have one engine that doesn't have a current keeper in it which always cut out. I stopped using it, it was so bad. CRC made it run about 90% better. Thank you for your help and dedication to the community!

Some great answers Gregg, thanks very much!

Greg your a legend.. happy to have stumbled over your follow up vid. 🤘🏻

Great stuff! I have some inox now on order from an auto shop so am keen to see how it goes. I need to get my track down tho so I should probably focus on that. Thanks for the great tips and content and all the best, Clint

Thank you for the follow up to the track cleaning video. 1,100 video record. Nice job!

I just now saw this video. Thanks for the added info and congrats on the viewership!

Great video, love the hair light, makes you look very young. I noticed when looking at the comments yesterday, how many people mentioned Goo-Gone. So far I have not heard any negative points on it other than it makes the room smell like oranges. Can’t wait for a second rant video. Cheers from Terry in Nebraska.

Greg, thanks for the track cleaning rant and the follow up. Yes, I'm still guilty of stoning the track, expecially after painting soldering or other construction but I'm trying to reduce it. I have used 91% Isopropyl in the past but have switched over to CRC 626. The CRC has a major advantage for those of us in the USA - it is often sold in major home supply stores. I get mine through Home Depot and then I don't have to order from an electronic specialty store. CRC = MUCH superior to 91% IPA. Keep up the good rants!

Like the setup. It looked at first as though you were going make a terribly important announcement or, in echoes my childhood TV watching, read us all a nice bedtime story!

Thanks Greg Inox works a treat, my loco's run much better after the Inox treatment on the tracks, no stopping or spluttering. Keep up the videos very informative and down to earth. Cheers

Gregg. Thanks for the update. I saw your KZfaq video a year ago and only after your update got some inox M83. Got it on Amazon from a place out of Titusville, FL. Will be using it soon. Kennedy

New to the hobby. Thanks for sharing your expertise!

Interesting topic for sure, I’m curious about a graphite block since some of my models have traction tyres. I did test out and make a video about contact cleaner as a track cleaning fluid. Looking at a peco track rubber I’m convinced it has pieces of graphite in it. The same colour smudge comes up on my finger as if you used graphite on the track.

Good on ya mate. You deserve it. Now bring you dumper stateside I got some issues, and I need help like installing and lining up peco point motors under 1/4" plywood. Congrats to ya, have a beer mate.

Got CRC for my DC test loop. Incredible! Locos that didn't run now go like the clappers. Thanks for the tip.

Tried this. Worked a treat. Thank you.

I been using AC-6000 sold by Green Steam products and it works great. Great video Buddy. Bob

Just found your channel, and I'm subscribing. Really like your no-crap style!

I've been using Inox for over 20 years. I also use graphite as well sometimes. Art shops sell sticks of it. You will find Graphite also decreases friction, but I solved the traction problem by only having free rolling carriages, sensible curves and grades on my layout. I have also used CRC in the past as do some of my friends. I only use a small drop or too at each end of my layout. Using to much will soften some paints. Cheers, Terry Flynn. (also from down under)

Thanks for the follow up! Congrats on the views.

Great video Gregg after your last video I ordered a can of INOX MX3-300 I really appreciate the way you brake down the Soundtraxx Tsunami decoders for setting realistic operations any thanks again and say hi to the great Lord Stan take care my friend

Hello Gregg, Good to see an Aussie on KZfaq. Just stumbled across your channel as you do. Enjoyed your video [rant] on track cleaning 'do`s & dont`s'. Just by way of interest I have used a track cleaning rubber sold by DCC Concepts who were in Perth WA until they buggered off to the UK. It is pure rubber impregnated with Aluminium Oxide. It does not leave any residue on the track, nor does it scratch the track as I have checked it with a powerful magnifying glass to check for scratching.. By the way I have just subscribed to your channel.... Cheers Greg [Queensland]

HI Gregg, Your videos about track cleaning are very informative, however Inox contains a lubricant and leaves a film behind that will attract dust like a magnet and can cause lack of traction climbing hills. I lost my track rubber over 20 years ago and never regretted it. I swear by CRC Precision CO Contact cleaner (Spray can), available in New Zealand and Aussie, most of my use is with cleaning noisy potentiometers and channel switches in high end audio amplifiers I repair. It is also popular with industrial electricians for cleaning motor contactors. I spray a cork block and rub along the track. I don't use my layout often and have only cleaned my track once in the last five years. I friend of mine runs his layout daily, and uses the CRC product on my recommendation and very rarely cleans his track, maybe once per year. We were using Servisol Isoprol alcohol in a spray can from Jaycar it does not contain water, but found the CRC contact cleaner lasted longer. Just to note that we use metal wheels on all our rolling stock. Graphite, I have seen videos extolling the virtues, but hell its a lubricant, I use graphite powder on my pin point brass bearing, I can't imagine my trains going up the 1:50 grade on part of my layout if I attempted to clean my track with it. About 1990 my club mates were running a DC layout at an expo in Rotorua, NZ's thermal Wonderland, and had real problems with the sulphur dioxide, having to clean the rails every 60 minutes of running with heaven forbid a track rubber to remove the oxidization film. At the time I was using CRC 2-26 to clean the rails on my layout. One of the guys remembered my comments and during lunch went out and bought a can and they cleaned the rails with it. CRC 2-26 leaves a film behind and it was ideal in the enviroment and saved them the embarrasment of having to stop running the layout every hour or so.

Hi Gregg, as if by magic I stumbled on your channel. Yes I am guilty of the ‘rubber cleaner’ but no more after watching your rant 😆. I am having problems with my track and locos stalling at certain points on my small layout. I immediately used WD 40 Im in England, and there was an instant improvement. I model O gauge and was getting really disheartened after ballasting problems started occurring on points. All checked no ballast in point work. Your tip seems to have improved running considerably. Thank you 🙏🏻.

I have seen a few articles and videos about graphite. I purchased some to try it, but after doing a bit more research am hesitant to use it on my brand new track. Really looking forward to hear what you say after your experiment with it.

I am so used to not being able to get anything locally to do with Model Railroads, and so Iwas totally amazed that Bunnings stock Inox. I usually stare at Ebay trying to get hold of things and right now in Melbourne it's a tad hard getting anything even via parcel post! But this was a few months ago when we were allowed to go shopping and I'm afraid I bored my wife explaining how good old Gregg recommended this stuff.

Lighting here turned out nice Gregg. Those fancy highlights in your hair will have the ladies right at the 2 meter limit, for sure.

Tried CRC had no joy, sprayed a couple of shots onto some cotton, an old tea towel torn up, and dragged along the track under finger pressure. No joy in engines moving! Had to wipe it off. Tried a piece of hard pine cleared the oxidised layer. I'm in NZ. Cheers Gregg. David

Congratulations !

Thanks for your time and information you give all us model railers,iam gonna give a try ,if I can get some inox ,by the way,your still barking,lol,but in a good way.😃

Greg: great video! I use a product called "Rail Zip 2" made in the "States" Have had very good results with DCC. Also good advice: keep running trains and using the track.

Hi Gregg, I watched your video. I live in Brazil and do not have the INOX M3 here, but I am importing and will soon arrive here in my layout. I use rails from the manufacturer Atlas on my railroad, I will record in videos and then share how the tests went. Your tips are traveling the world. Thank you

Hey Greg I was wondering if you’ve ever heard of striking your track to repair the rubber eraser of death damage? I bought a bunch of used turnouts and a bunch of used track and saw that it was scratched severely. What I did was I went to the local hardware store and bought a 3/4” washer or 19mm for the metric folks. I used some 600 grit sand paper on the rail heads to straighten them up a little bit then used a scotch brute abrasive pad to polish them off further. Once the scratches were smoothed out the best I could get them I firmly pressed the washer on the rail heads with the washer on both rails to get them even and ran the washer around on my track. Made my rails look like brand new to do whatever needed to happen! Maybe if you do another track video it may be an experiment to try to see if you get the same result. Substantially more cost effective to repair track then it is to replace as well as a lot less work. I’m using nickel silver code 100 atlas track for my main lines and code 83 for my loco service yard and facility!

Watched both videos. Super information. I see Inox can be ordered in the States from Ace Hardware and even Walmart. CRC 2-26 is also available at auto repair shops. Thanks for the info. I spent many years using the gum eraser on N scale layouts and LGB track cleaning fluid on S and O gauge layouts. Now I know why it didn't improve performance.

I watched your video on what not to do for cleaning track. My locomotives were starting almost every two to ten seconds sporadically. I cleaned my track per other's recommendations and it made no difference . I decided to use some WD-40 on my engines. Now, my DCC locomotives are running good. I still have stoppages from my Light Mikado steam engine on two turnouts, but my diesel works great. I thank you for your advice and experience. P>S. I just started back into model railroading in N scale after fifty (50) years from my first layout in the 1970s.

Gregg, your hair is impeccable.

I do things with my track that would get me stoned by other modelers!!! I pull trains that are just a tad too heavy for the power on them and I just grind it off with the slipping drivers. Like trains on a 4% grade with 60 cars and 10 units slippin' all the way!!! 5 up front, and 5 2/3rds of the way back slamming through the crossovers at South Summit!!!

I saw your video. And I tried it on a bad spot on my layout. You can get it here in the States at Ace Hardware. I ran some of my difficult running locomotives through the bad spots and they ran better than they ever have. I wish I knew about INOX a year ago. Where I took out about eight feet of trouble some track where I was having a lot of issues. INOX may have saved me about a week's worth of work. Thanks for sharing. I have past it on to a few of my friends.

I used to use iso and I had nothing but issues. when I started my current layout I decided to give CRC a shot and I will never go back. Now it everything runs great. when I do have a loco stall, which is not very often, I grab the crc take a cotton swap and just apply a very small amount and just clean the trouble spot. I have a switching layout but my friend has a large layout with continuous running and he started using it on his. He tells me that since he applied it back in Nov he has not had to clean his track nor has any of his locos stalled or stuttered. He runs his trains almost daily, I think that makes a difference.

Hi Greg, just found your video. Loved it and found INOX on Amazon and ordered up. I have my Dads 1940 3 rail and my 1963 3 rail. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the info, loved the rants. Rick Mansberger Redmond Sports Group I will

Gregg Joe Fugate has also recommended graphite sticks he talked about using it at an angle to get it on the inner top edge of the rails as that. Is the main area of contact. We have used this at our local club layout to improve things there is a WD40 spray that our club use not the usual one but it is for use on electrials and to improve conductivity, it is only available on line, as we are in lockdown I can't get there to tell you exactly what it is called. Every little helps Neil

Greg thanks for your info i am new to this i have tried all different thing and no good then i used the inox and the train have run without problems Hafter one clean with inox Thay have never run so well I lick to thank you. it is so dusty here in S.A

I went and purchased some Inox today at Super Cheap Auto. I’ve also signed the Toolbox Talk. 😂

Thanks Gregg. I have been using track rubbers and isoproply... alcohol, but will not anymore. Thanks. Trouble is, here in Burnie, Bunnings is closed 😩 so I cannot yet buy Inox. We are all staying home or in the train room.

Hi Gregg. (below comment was made before I viewed the update video. It would be interesting to to find out if I ox is non-polar. ) In the May 2019 model rail road hobbyist there was an article on cleaning rail and wheels. It discussed polar vs non-polar solvents. Non-polar being good, polar being bad. The CRC and WD40 contact cleaners were non-polar (good). Isopropyl alcohol, mek and acetone amongst others are polar. I've also noticed that cleaning the inside radii of the top of the rail head also improves electrical pick up quite a bit. As an experiment I cleaned the inside radii only on some dirty track without cleaning the top of track. This improved pick up noticeably. Not 100 % but significant. Cleaning both the top of the rail and the inside radius with a non-polar cleaner is probably the gold standard. Cheers Doug

As a kid I used graphite for my 12V dc Lego train (the 1970's type with separate current rails in between the running rails.) I applied graphite using a carpenter's pencil. The treatment was quite effective but had to be repeated often. I think part of the effect was that the pencil was not pure graphite but also contained some abrasive particles that helped grind through the oxide layer on the rails. Anyway, the graphite will not prevent oxidation (as inox does according to your experience). Once in a while I used alcohol to remove grease and dirt. Of course the graphite was cleaned away also and the train would not run reliably until after a new graphite treatment. I think the way graphite works is as follows: Even if the rails are oxidized, there are plenty of microscopic holes in the oxide layer where the pure metal is exposed. Unfortunately, the weels cannot reach these spots. If the holes in the oxide layer are filled up with graphite and graphite is smeared on top of the oxide layer, the oxide layher is bypassed and the weels obtain electrical contact. If there are no holes in the oxide layer, the graphite will not help. A nice property of graphite is that it is a "dry" treatment that does not attract dust.

Inox MX3 arrived CHECK... Cut up grandpa's singlet CHECK... Better performing locos CHECK... well done Gregg, thanks for the learning experience :-)

Enjoy your videos. Please keep it up. As for the CRC product. I could not make out the brand you mentioned. Can you please let me know the CRC product you recommend. Cheers.

Thanks Gregg, I cleaned a lot of the track with cotton buds and inox. I was suprised at how much gunk I got. I then sprayed the bottom of my CMX track cleaner with inox and ran it around a couple of times. Locomotives are having a lot easier time making it up the higher grades. Very impressed. Thanks. Can I use the MX4? Cheers. Richard Tasmania

Hello Gregg, hope all is well. How did the Graphite Block pan out. In RSA we get a Graphite/Oil spray as well, but anyways no Inox here so Im not sure what to use.

In the US it called Oxguard. Elite 94 on KZfaq here has a video about it and says it's great an only cleans track once or twice a year. Nice video. Stay well. 👍

I now use CRC 2-26 following your advice although I do have many Locos with traction tyres so I take your point about running round the layout. Perhaps wiping the tracks down with a dry rag after initial cleaning would allow for running traction tyre Locos? Certainly CRC is good when servicing Locos. The most confusing bit I found was when purchasing CRC as they sell many products- it’s the 2-26 for model railways! Very interested in your graphite block, so will be keen to learn of your experience- thanks so much!

Gregg two great videos on this subject! I have a few questions .. I buy ME weathered track, how do I get the weathering off the top? When I have to file the track, I get small scratches on the track surface, how do I remove them? Also will WD40 sprayed on a rag then run over the track work?

I'm wondering about Mineral Spirits (enamel paint thinner)? It seems to work well for cleaning, and doesn't harm plastic. Have any of you tried it?

Hi Greg, I really enjoyed the 2 "cleaner" videos. They made my day! Did you ever do one on the graffiti block? Thanks again, Pete

Hi Gregg extremely good information on track cleaning you mentioned in the last video to use CRC without Silicone, but when I looked everything had this in. Im in the UK do you know a brand name hat has no silicone . Also people are stating to use WD - 40 is this good it does not have silicone? cheers Paul at Sandling Junction

Automatic transmission fluid works great as well, just a little goes a long way.

G’day, was just wondering what brand of track you use and what you paint your track with? I’ve tried enamel and acrylic and get some kind of oxidation. Happens to Peco, Atlas and Micro Engineering. I’m in Brissy QLD and can’t help but wonder if the humidity has something to do with it?

What is your best recommendation for use with traction tyres? Did the graphite work out well?

Hi Gregg, Any update on the graphite block, whilst I do use and am pretty happy with it, it I'm curious as to your thoughts on it, and should you clean the track first with Inox and then graphite or just straight graphite and no Inox or just straight Inox & no graphite. Cheers Alex

Gregg, can I ask more about cleaning with the wet and dry and innox. I've just finished my track in the UK so you can imagine it's got glue. paint etc on it. Is 1200 paper and innox going to be an OK place to start with the cleaning?

Hey Greg, which CRC product do you recommend. You mentioned 626, but I can’t find that. There’s the straight contact cleaner which leaves a silicones film. There is 2-26 which is moisture displacing lube, and 6026 which is insulative marine stuff. I’m betting you mean the 2-26.

THANK YOU!

As I started earlier in your previous video on the verge of cleaning the track and then saw your video and Bada-Boom-Bada-Bing it was great after using it on the yard and running trains around it worked very well.

I use CRC as a cleaner because that's what I got from the store. I can't get on with your rag applicator method, the rag gets soggy & snags. I either use cotton buds or moistened cork or cardboard. Whatever works for you. I might try graphite too. But I don't have your courage, I still clean my track & wheels. I've got a couple of steamers with marginal pickup that insist on having their wheels cleaned.(I use DCC).

I have a question for you - I'm new to this and I ordered the Inox for the tracks and my question is this - can it also be used to lubricate the wheels and gears on the engine? I have 1920's era trains and I'm working on getting them up & running and it says on the bottom of the cars to lubricate and I want to be sure to use the right thing. Is Inox good for this purpose? Thanks for your advice, I can tell you are knowledgeable on the matter.

Thanks for the update Gregg! I use the CRC QD Electronic Cleaner available locally here in Florida. I can't see where it contains any petroleum products, Silicon, or Chlorine in it. It works well, but dries super fast and the fumes are both flammable and horrendous to breath in. I have to be careful of sparks or flame and ventilate well. I immediately apply a small amount of any commercial track cleaner afterwards to maintain continued protection. That seems to help immensely. Thanks for all the valued advice. Stay safe! Cheers, Danny

OK, sounds sound, but we use graphite to lubricate things like coupler pockets and key tumblers, how will that effect traction on the rails? Thanks for sharing....Jack 😲

Is "Inox MX3" the update of the "inox" you use? Also, will it work on Lionel "O" tinplate track?

Gregg, taking on board what you've said about these sprays over IPA for track cleaning, could they also be applied to servicing the locomotives as well? Or would you recommend something else for that instead of IPA. Cheers, Paul

Hi Greg just seen your video so I googled inox mx3 in it says it’s non-conducive your thoughts cheers

What is CRC? Googling it gets me either "cyclic redundancy check" or something to do with cannabis. Thanks. (And congrats on the view count. Lord Stan must be looking over his shoulder to see who's gaining on him.)

I used the Inox and now my Roco 0-10-0 is spinning like a top. 4 traction tyres on the tender and 2 on the loco. "Slippin and a sliddin, peeping and then hiding, seems like it don't wanna go ho!" I'll take the tyres off or is there any way to ruff them up? Cheers.

Hey Greg, How did the graphite work?

just wondering how often do you need to apply it?

Hi Gregg, WD40 through the CMX track cleaner works very well too Kind regards Jonathan

The graphite does work, we use the flat builders pencils (in the UK anyway) because they contain the right amount of graphite to be effective.. The ordinary pencils for drawing, your 2B etc.. are no good, only the builders pencils seem to work probably because there's enough graphite in them to be conductive...

Hi Greg, Sorry if you've told us all this before - but roughly how frequently do you run the little cloths, etc. with Inox on around the layout in normal running conditions ? Thank you.

👍🏻👍🏻

Forget about chemicals, tie a chamois leather (real or cheap fake) to a stick that you have fashioned to the profile of your rail, slightly dampen with water, be amazed at the amount of black stuff it takes off then a few minutes later gently glide a graphite block or artists crayon/pencil made of grey graphite round the track, don’t put too much on, sit back and watch your trains run for three or four months then repeat.

Does the inox spray kill bactera and viruses too?

Brilliant video on inox, can you use WD40 or something or petrol lighter fuel Mark 👍 👍

I like your video on track cleaning. In the US is it like. ( WD 40 ) ? Hope you are having a great week From Neil Schwerdt in west valley city .

is wd40 any good for cleaning track?

If you dry off the track the water content has no negative effects

what you need is a 2in x 2in x 1in block of graphite... 50mm v 50mm x 25mm block of graphite and graphite is a conductor of electricity

So anyone with a loco with traction tires can not use inox?? I have not seen any n scale steam locos without traction tires. Kind of an important thing to forget to mention!

I tried "Metho" an it worked mostly, I tried CLR. DO NOT USE PLEASE. It took several hrs of cleaning to remove the stuttering mess that my layout had turned into. Out to the chemist and then to Bunnings to get some Inox (unless certain others have removed the lot before me :-) ) Many years ago when I was helping on the NSW exhibition circuit the guys swore by "Wahl Clipper oil" and it did seem to work Have fun, stay well.

Ah pooh, just ordered Inox in the UK after watching Gregg’s first video. Now Gregg says no good if you have traction tyres. ☹️ Back to square one. Will be interesting to see how the graphite block works.

Graphite is used in locksmithng

:-)

OMG Gregg just run trains! Joeoz3751