I love how detailed this video is! Looking forward to more content on the Onefinity!

Thanks for sharing. Mine should be here tomorrow and I want to get it up and running as soon as possible.

prior to surfacing use an indicator to check to make sure the machine is parrallel to the work bed then surface spoil board. during assembely use a digital angle finder to check relative position of the router mount to the work bed then surface and if tram is off make or buy a tram arm to hold an indicator and fine tune and resurface spoil board

a cheap indicator or digital angle finder is what you need. costs less than a router bit

Very nice presentation. As a point of interest. Using a dial indicator on the end of the arm or using the Z zero tools, would allow for easy math and feeler gages. Let say you would need .012 on the top of the plate. You would simple get a sheet of .012 shim stock or a sheet of laminated shim stock. Enjoy

Well done explanation and presentation. One suggestion for steel screws into aluminum is to use automotive anti-seize paste which prevents the binding of the threads.

Nice video. After my initial surfacing, I am perfect side to side, but about 0.008 off front to back (my tramming gauge is about 8" long). Is this close enough - I don't know. I can feel a slight ridge after surfacing. It's too bad that front-to-back tram adjustment is not built into the Onefinity. Shiming with tape feels a bit "cheesy" given the cost point of these machines. Thanks for the content - this was well explained.

Great video thanks - how can remotely control my router ?

Very informative! You saved me from buying an expensive tramming jig for no reason. Thanks! But hearing you sniffing throughout the video is driving me crazy lol

That was great info.. Surprised they prevision for that and add some adjustment points to the router mounting plate. I'm printing a tram bar and once that is done I'm going to follow your instructions and get my Z axis squared away. Thanks!

I’m working on this now. Since my spoilboard has high and low sides to each pass, I’m setting a piece of glass over it. I figure that will average out the errors and give me a temporarily flat surface to tram against.

Thank you for posting this! My Journeyman will be here in about 6 weeks so I'm catching up on all related videos. Regarding the fore/aft position, my plan was to loosen, but not take out those 4 screws. Then I was going to use feeler gauges to determine the difference. Which ever feeler gauge matched that difference, I was going to sacrifice it and use it as the shim where you placed your tape. I was hoping that I would be able to slide it in without removing the bolts. Any thoughts?

On your joystick, do you have an elite system?

What is the spacing between the screw holes in your spoilboard? I recently got my machine and I'm trying to figure out what kind of spoilboard I want to try

Did you get a deer?

"Trammeling". Not "tramming".