Giving this a go tomorrow, wish me luck, cheers for the great video

Just done mine today. I would of struggled without watching your video last night, perfect trick with the bolts to push bearing out, I had some threaded bar which started to bend but still did the trick 👌🏽

Best bearing/mechanical video I’ve ever seen. Thankyou you deserve a gold spanner. (Could you do my bearings please) Stuart

Just done mine with your nice bolt trick. I used M10 x 120mm bolts. You can also use the bolt too pull the breakdisk from the bearing. Everthing worked without the puller. But i installed premounted hub/bearing. Thanks so much for the Video.

Great video & buying a new hub to fit the bearing on is spot on thank you

the best system in the web to remove rotor.... ciao dall'Italia!

I find the problem. Thank you for this amazing video. Respect

Thank you very much, about to attempt this on my transit just need a t50 torx. Thank you

Mint job 👏👌 brilliant video aswell very detailed 👏 I dint need to do mine but I'll be saving this video for when I do for help n torque specs thanks alot gaind a subscriber gotta love a mk7 transit I got lwb hi top it drives faultless just usual ford rust lol got a hole on rear arch I need to learn to weld n fix before mot time

I will defo be buying the hun next time getting the bearing out was a mission it went in easy but over all if you can get a professional garage to do it I would as the job is harder then then it looks

Thank you for your good video! Helped me a lot when i changed front bearing. Greetings from Kuopio Finland ! T: Jari

You should have cleaned up the bearing to mounting face by draw filing to remove the gouges from chiseling it out during disassembly. Otherwise the threat of fretting could occur and loosen the clamping force and possibly break the mounting bolts later on down the track. Also the rust and scale should have been removed from the brake rotor again to stop fretting and bolts loosening, but especially so the rotors run true and don't cause pulsating brake action. Plus a little grease on the axle nut and washer and on the splines also on the wheel nuts and rim will go a long way to get closer torque on the fasteners and make it easier to remove the wheels and or hub again in the future. You also should have had a damn good feel of the CV joints while the hub was off to make sure they are up to snuff. I also think the manual states a dab of Locktite on the hub mounting hardware and definitely on the caliper bolts

Fantastic video. I’ve done the back bearings and discs on mine but yet to do the front. Can ya tell me what size bolts you used to separate from the carrier? Only criticism would be that you should’ve painted the callipers like a neon green or something………apparently it adds 17.6 horsepower 😀

A very informative video (do we still call them videos ? ) anyhoo i have mine to do and this video has inspired me to do mine, I'm replacing calipers too 👍

Classic EML light on the dash! Mine comes on and off as it pleases

Would of been easier to crack the hub nut while the wheel was on the floor,also you can pry the brake pads slightly and this makes taking the caliper off and putting back on.use a heat gun on the t50 bolts if they don't move with the required torque

Wear did you get the part from the after market peice my bearings gone on the passenger side

All good until you strip the threads on the disc hub, or ruin the T50 bolts when the bearing assembly is seized in 😩

Hello going to be doing mine next week what length bolts did you use to push the hub back ? Thanks lee

Is the mk7 same as the mk6 ? Mines a rear wheel drive 2.4

Are the long bolt you use to separate the hub m10 or m8??

I have just had the wheel bearings replaced on my Mark 7 Transit van. The mechanic explained to me that the brake pads and discs have to be replaced as the discs are invariably difficult to separate from the hub. Is this common practice?

Great vid. Have you got a link for that puller. Thx

What size puller is that bud .?

Far too easy in undoing the 36mm nut, just broken a torque wrench and bent a T bar, now bought a 900mm breaker and standing my 12 stone on the end of the bar and it is not budging. Anyone any suggestions. I have heated nut with gas torch, not helped

Problem i'm finding now is when you put the 3 torx bolts back in, the hub then doesn't spin round enough for the long bolts to line up with them - hub spins round 360° with torx bolts out no probs wtf...timing chain isn't connected, maybe that is the issue?

Where did you get the after market bearing mate

Hub

Don't no how to put photos on. Not always that easy ??. Mine all torx striped and had to drill heads off. Got hub off and welded 10 mm nut on stud to get out. Bearing garage said need special press. Pissed off with this, took angle grinder to it, quiet easy. And threaded rod to pull new on. Bloody night mare but nearly done

Video made with lot of short cuts. Is not that easy like you showing. M10 bolts need to be strong as almost laser tools also with bolts you can damage bearing that's what I've done yesterday.

That's a very bad design ..if you want to change the disks you must take the whole wheel bearing off..