Just the ticket, I thought I might get the dealer to do this, but now I'll definitely do it myself thank you very much - an excellent little video!

You need to actually apply lever pressure and open the bleed nipple at the same time as activating the solenoids to actually move the old brake fluid out of the abs unit and allow fresh fluid in. Then you re-bleed the system as normal again afterwards to remove that old fluid from the line when the solenoids are re-shut. Just operating the solenoids with the laptop achieves nothing, there would be no fluid movement. The solenoids operate for about 7secs so needs repeating and nipple opening a few times to ensure enough fluid movement. It is explained like this in the Dealertool pdf instructions on bleeding abs brakes.

One quick suggestion. From the service manual of my 765 i know that you should do another abs bleed (with the dealer tool) for the rear brake and then do the bleed for the rear again as you did for the front.

Just learned there was a (675cc) Street RS model previous to the 2017 one, looks pretty damn awesome. Really helpful video man keep at it!

Thanks for this, just trying to get my head around what's happening - first time doing it. Am I right in thinking that for the rear brake, you didn't change/remove all of the fluid - you just replaced some of the old fluid with some new fluid, but it was mostly just removing air? I guess you can just keep doing this, unless at some point you suspect the fluid in there is bad and needs to be fully drained and replaced?

Hello i know its a year ago but can you tell me the make of your OBD code reader i have been looking on EBAY not sure which one to buy thanks

You really should suck the old fluid out of the reservoirs and film them with fresh fluid before you bleed. That gets the old fluid out of the lines much faster. You're pushing a lot of old fluid out and, worse, mixing new fluid with old fluid as your helper tops of the master cylinders. Not a good idea. Always suck almost all of the old fluid out of the master cylinders and refill with fresh fluid before you bleed the brakes. Also, you should only have to bleed the master cylinders if you replaced them (the master cylinders) or, for some reason you ran them completely dry and pumped air into them. Lastly, I may be wrong but it seems to me that when you bleed ABS, you should have the brake bleeders open. Otherwise, how can you push old fluid out of the ABS system? The fluid has nowhere to go. After bleeding ABS, you have to bleed the brakes again the normal way, of course.

whats the name of the OBD tool that you used to connect to the bike and where can I get it?

How do you like your saddleman seat?? is it worth the money?

which program did you use on the laptop ?

What if i dont do abs bleed? To be Honest i hear that first time

Hi . . . you didn't do this correctly. The correct procedure is to bleed front right, then left and then master cylinder - as per your video. Then - activate the ABS system whilst bleeding either caliper on the front wheel by activating the front brake lever and releasing the nipple several times as per above - this allows any air/fluid in the ABS to be pumped through the modulator. Simply activating the solenoid achieves absolutely nothing other than . . . activating the solenoid. Having bled one caliper with the ABS pump running, then repeat the bleeds on front right, left and master cylinder with the ABS system turned off. Note - the above is only necessary if you have somehow introduced air into the system, otherwise - all that is needed is a fluid change and you can do this without activating or bleeding the ABS. Simply change the fluid by bleeding front right, left and master cylinder as per your video but leave the ABS well alone.