How to Replace Rear Wheel Bearing 1993-1997 Ford Ranger

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New Wheel Bearing from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/id/1AAXX00121
This video shows you how to install a rear wheel bearing on your 1993-1997 Ford Ranger. A vibrating or groaning noise coming from a wheel tells you it's time to replace the bearing! This wheel bearing is a direct replacement for the bearing in your vehicle's solid axle.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
1993 Ford Ranger
1994 Ford Ranger
1995 Ford Ranger
1996 Ford Ranger
1997 Ford Ranger
Tools you will need:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/onx/1AXAA00020
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/oSG/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/oux/1AXAA00043
• Air Compressor
• Bearing Puller
• Bearing Race and Seal Driver 1aau.to/om/1AXAA00038
• Dead Blow Hammer 1aau.to/ooA/1AXAA00091
• 1/2 Inch Air Impact Gun 1aau.to/oeh/1AXAA00252
• 3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet 1aau.to/oSG/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oBx/1AXAA00044
• 5/16 Inch Wrench
• Drill
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Cloth Rags 1aau.to/ohU/1AXSS00035
• Gear Oil
• Gloves 1aau.to/ogF/1AXSS00048
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Safety Glasses 1aau.to/oeP/1AXAA00343
• Drain Pan 1aau.to/ogC/1AXAA00320
• Sledge Hammer 1aau.to/ooA/1AXAA00091
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/oe5/1AXAA00079
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

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@TRQ Жыл бұрын

√ Watch the Video √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ Do it Yourself √ Save Money

@bobd1805 7 ай бұрын

Thanks! Good clearcut directions. Everything went perfect. The shops around here wanted $600 to $1000 for a job I spent an afternoon doing to replace $60 worth of parts.

@tafb8 Жыл бұрын

I would suggest that if one wheel bearing and seal is going to be replaced that you might as well do them both right away since your going to be that far into it already. I saw/heard nothing about torque specs on the cover or filler plug. Also, I never trust the sealant that’s on the outer diameter of any seal so personally, I always use a thin coat of a liquid sealant (RTV, silicone, etc) on the inner diameter of the axle housing before assembling the seal itself. You don’t need a seal driver for that, a flat piece of steel placed on the seal face can be tapped until flush, or a larger diameter socket, or anything just so the seal doesn’t get deformed while tapping it into place. Also, it’s mentioned that that the manufacturer uses a blue Loctite but instead, he uses white. This might be a little confusing to some watching your video when it shows something different from what the even narrator says the manufacturer uses. Since the set screw (for the pin that is between the axle shafts) is constantly going to be in an oil bath, I would recommend using the 243 Loctite as it is oil resistant (242 is not). I would also suggest to use a sealer on the fill plug (not a Loctite thread sealer but,more of a pipe joint compound or, even a silicone) before reinstalling the fill plug as well. I couldn’t help but notice that most- if not all of the lug nuts never even budged “before” the torque wrench beeped, suggesting they may have been over-torqued with the impact wrench already. There should be at least some rotation to ensure you’re not already over the torque that is set on the digital torque bar. Lastly, it would’ve been nice if the narrator would’ve mentioned the total expected amount of time it “should” take to do this job - granted it goes as well for the average guy/gal as it did for them in the video.