Great video. Trent cracked me up @0:42 when he contemplates the idea of shooting 155 grain 5.56.

Simple, intelligent and directly address the issue with clarity and logic, thank you for not wasting the first 4 minutes of our lives on explaining what a buffer & spring is

155 grain DAYUM thas a heavy bullet for .223..../5.56...

I've watched so many videos... and for once this one explained exactly what's happening, with no bullshit, straight to the facts and the video was relatively short. Great job boys! Thank you

Thank you! I thought mine was running a little rough. Way over gassed!

3 years later, and still helpful!🤘🏻

I think there may be more to ejection pattern than this... like maybe extractor and or ejector strength/tension? I was experimenting with buffers the other day and had what I would consider an odd result. I was shooting a BCM 14.5 w/ BCM BCG, and carbine buffer tube/buffer spring/buffer. Using several different load of ammo, the brass essentially fell out of the at about 1:00, only ejecting maybe 1-2 feet away. Very uniform. Bolt lock back no problem. Then I tried a H1, H2, and H3 buffer. In all cases the brass went into essentially the same pile, about 4:30, and maybe 8-10 feet back. Bolt lock back no problem. Then I tried a lower with a longer BCM MK2 buffer tube ("A5"). T0 buffer, similar result to carbine buffer. T1, T2, T3 buffer, essentially the same result as H1, H2, and H3. In all cases bolt lock back no problem and brass landing in the same place. I was happy to see the broad range over which the gun would operate, but I expected see some kind of difference between those buffer weights. When I didn't, I questioned why that might be. Any ideas?

Ive seen a lot of newbies that were having issues with bolts not locking to the rear on an empty magazine. They assumed it was the magazine and began to modify the magazine by cutting around it to "make it work". No one should ever have to modify anuthing on a gun to make it work. What they didnt realize that having the wrong buffer system was the culprit. Even having the wrong length buffer tube will cause huge issues. Yep. The buffer system as a whole is so important and critical to the gun working. Its just not some spring and a buffer.

Being a dissy guy, I would say if you're under gassed then be sure you're running a carbine weight buffer, not an h1, h2, h3, ECT. When you start running lighter race gun parts, then start expecting race gun like reliability. It's great for 3 gun, not so great for anything serious. A lot of light weight carrier, buffer, and spring options on the market are designed specifically to be run with adjustable gas blocks. Basically, tuning required. It also should be said that some carriers made out of certain materials have a significantly shorter life span and heavily milled carriers might be more prone to failure. All not a big deal on a race gun, but huge when some ones life might be on the line. There are other factors to address such as gas port size and dwell time as well. On a home build, these can get you in trouble some times. Most of the time you'll be fine, but some times not so much. You might run into this being more of an issue if you're having a barrel cut down, but some times manufacturers still get it wrong. For example, DD over sizes their gas ports on their Mk18 uppers. It's certainly better than being under gassed though. If you ran weak .223 ammo on a Mk18 upper built to Crane specs you might see some failures due to under gassing. There is a lot to this stuff.

what a great informative video a true gem for learning to tune your rifle without an adjustable gas block thanks Kit helped me a lot

Thanks for a short yet informative video!

Excellent video. Explained very well and with amazing presentation. Thank you guys so much

Excellent video. I do like the professional delivery- clear, concise info and I dig the Jam cover song🙂🇬🇧

Awesome! Easy to follow and learn from. Thanks for the education

Effective and simple explanation with a nice visual

You also want to make sure the bolt locks back to the rear after the last round

Great refresher video for me, thanks so much fellas!

Thank you for making this video! It really helps me with my AR.

Now I know what I will be looking for the next time I go shooting. As always Ivan great music.

Thank you, this helped a ton. Best regards, Ben.

Awesome put together video.

This helped me with my ruger 556 shooting 55 grain 556. Ejection was 2 o’clock. Now I’m at about 4

Outstanding video! Thank you!

Love how near the end you joke about being screwed if it's under gassed lol. Threw me off for a second because the video was serious and then you pop that joke. Awesome content and video I subbed and liked. Your good bro really cool..

Just what I needed to see, Tks.

You got a new subscriber here. Great Video. Thanks for the info!

Great information. Really beneficial to a newbie to the AR world.

Amazing video. To the point and easy to understand.

Thanks for the clear, simple explanation for a fixed block system.

I've been looking for 155gr 556 or 223 ammo for 4 years now and haven't had any luck....... Kit's buddy's face looked like Napoleon Dynamite when he said it. Hilarious

Nice video. Well done.

Thank you for making this video! You now have a new subscriber.

Me: trying to find a way to fix an undergassed gun. Them: If its under gased youre pretty much screwed. 😮😢

Reppin' Liberty Cans :-) Nice info Ivan.

Hey, boys, Karl here in Denver. I've been working on a solution to my Daniel Defense with a JP captured recoil spring system that won't lock open on an empty magazine. Adding tungsten weights was the recommendation. I will be testing on Saturday. Your spent brass/clock is very useful. Thank you for the clear explanation. Karl

Damn thanks for the vid. Appreciate it.

I swap 1 thing at a time if im unsure of the problem and put the old part back if not then problem and move to the next most likely suspect. Slow and steady wins the race. And if i may its not as hard on the pocket that way.

Very useful!

Thanks for the info...helps a lot

Kit badger rocks.

nice, simple and very comprehensive demonstration :) common sense well applied

Great video 👍🏽

I use a H2 buffer, and a extra power spring [red]

awesome video love your channel

Nice job fellas.

Thanks, very helpful

Trying this today with the JP buffer. Added the heaviest buffer spring according to their chart with 3 tungsten weights. Hope it works 😅

Love the intro music. Sick!!

Thank you!

Great video. Still learning

Well done video

Thanks for the video guys, I have just learned of the most valuable lessons in my life.

Thank you so much🙏🤘

Great video! I noticed the 155g comment but knew what you meant ...no chop busting from me :-) Thank you, for sharing!!

The explanation on the system was great but could you comment on what weight buffer you changed to and what the part number for the Wolf spring is?

155 grain American Eagle. Mega based.

Their advice for an under gassed gun can work but if you want to keep using the same parts it's best to open the gas port. If that's too difficult, you can try using a lighter buffer.

Easy way. Thanx

Gonna have to do this. ThAnKs DaNiEl DeFeNse.

I had to do all three ..... H3, heavy spring and supervative gas block on my 7.5. Now the pattern is at 3-4

Thanks, guys for a professional mature presentation, absent the immature macho attitude of spewing profanity like so many other trainers think "real men" are supposed to do, but obviously they're clueless and insecure little boys.

When the rifle gets extremely dirty the gas length will act differently. A carbine will act as a mid A mid will act like a rifle length An a rifle length will stop working

This is super useful. I think we just became best friends.

Was just wondering on what grain ammo you used, 55 grain American eagle? BTW love the channel good job on the content especially the music. Keep up the good work!

Does grain weight and powder play a part in the over/under gassed system?

have been wondering this for a while, but since theres so many billet uppers and aftermarket changes to the traditional m4 upper and brass deflector if ejection pattern still determines gassing. I have an aero upper without a forward assist, and really no change in spring strength or buffer weight changes the ejection pattern, like I can with my BCM upper

Thanks! Mine is over gassed and was leaving rip marks on the casings along with other feeding issues. It broke the extractor claw off. So now that I know what’s wrong I need to know if a heavy buffer will work in my all commercial spec carbine. I found a stoner h1 cheap but it’s labeled as mil spec. I know tubes are different sizes but Is there a difference in the buffers and springs? I wanted to know if the buffer would fit and if the Wolff xtra power spring would fit. Mine is 16” all commercial spec,A2 sight,carbine gas system,commercial bolt carrier,original was fixed stock and changed to adjustable Tapco which is lighter standard buffers. I can’t remember if I fired it before it was changed it’s been so long ago so I’m not sure if that caused the issue or not. Would a h1 be enough?

Excellent, wondered how one would correct that!

Alright! Very good! I built an AR-15 chambered in 6.5 Grendel, and have no idea if I'm using the correct buffer/spring combination. It's a rifle-length barrel and gas-system, but has an adjustable, carbine-type butt-stock; therefore a carbine-rated spring and buffer. I've been wondering if I should purchase a heavier one. This video will at least give me a great starting spot to make that determination. Thanks, KB!

Thanks for the video. Informative and straight to the point. Question. Does Trent speak? LOL!

Geissele Super 42 is buttery smooth with no TWANG, highly recommend

Good video 👍. I have a 300 blackout 8.5". I guess I need to split the difference on ejection pattern of subsonic vs supersonic

Damn... What camera are you using? Looks amazing!

So I have a 16" Mid length gas system on my AR and I guess it ejects in the 3-3:10-3:15 position. I changed the buffer weight from the standard carbine buffer that came with my lpk to an H2 but I didn't change the spring. I still have the same spring that came with the original buffer and I'm still having a 3:00ish ejection pattern. I'm guessing I need to change the spring?

I'm curious how a rifle buffer tube would work against the adjustable carbine buffer tube already on his barrel. If he wanted to switch to a DoubleStar ACE 9.9" stock for example how would that work? Could he just get a rifle spring and use the same carbine buffer or what?

Awesome vid, that’s brutal filming a man while he’s trying to put in a buffer spring 😂😂😂

Newbie question but my AR is overgassed so I got a Springco Blue spring and a PWS H2 buffer. It shoots much better now. Do I still need an adjustable gas block to cut down on internal wear and tear of parts?

What buffer weight would u recommend for a 16” 450 bushmaster?

*STAINLESS FLATWIRE SPRING by David TUBB or others ... might be an option... SOME OF US run the TUBB AR-10 FLATWIRE STAINLESS BUFFER springs and H2 or H3 BUFFER in CAR-15 16" carbine gas ... with good results.*

Ivan, does barrel length have any bearing on an AR's inherent tendency to be over/under gassed? For instance, with a 7.5" barrel AR pistol, is your 3-4 o'clock ejection ideal still hold true?

My 10.5 “ AR 15 is ejecting at around 2 or 2:30 with a spring co red spring installed. Do you think need an h2 or h3 buffer to get it where I need?

Is this pattern only relevant coming straight from the ejection port? Mine are hitting off the deflector then ending up in that 1:30-2 zone Does the 'clock' method take into account the deflector?

FYI, you’re still over gassed, you just masked it with the buffer/spring. Adjustable gas block is the way to go.

Does the clock method take for granted that the shell is deflecting off the forward assist?

Great video. For undergassing is a lighter buffer weight and/or buffer spring a feasible solution?

so if its undergassed will a lighter spring or lighter buffer help? My trigger doesn't reset on .223rem, 18in rifle gas tube, 223wylde a chamber. it cycles but I'm left with a dead trigger after each round and have to switch back to safe, then to fire again. dont say "just use 556".

You have any brand / model recommendations for a first time AR buyer? It's such a huge ocean of options out there it's hard to know where to start.

I'd guess that 80-90% of mid length and shorter gas system guns are overgassed by design. It's done most likely for reliability with all the cheap steel cased ammo out there.

Or buy a new barrel with the gas port size you want. From Sprinco they have mentioned that typically going with a heavier spring and lighter buffer offers less felt recoil/sight displacement than going with a heavier buffer with a lighter spring. It seems like a lot of people just slap a heavier buffer in their rifle when maybe going to sprinco blue or red and keeping the same buffer might perform better.

Would this apply (in relation to recoil springs) to semiautomatic handguns, too?

Will an H2 buffer normaly solve over-gas at 1-2 o'clock ejections with any ammo brand?

New to the AR platform here, how about when the buffer has indentation/ markings (from buffer hitting the retaining pin) on it around the perimeter, what would be the problem?

“Old guy-Newbie” here...is there any downside to an adjustable gas block? (I’m just getting ready to buy or build) And secondly when you did your buffer/spring change in the video, is there a rule of thumb to keep the changes proportionate? Example...it doesn’t sound like you would just change the spring, or just change the buffer. I’m guessing that only changing one of them might have another undesirable affect and not solve the problem. What is the wisdom inside the buffer/spring change? Thanks for a very professional video.

Is this for AR platforms only ? My SAR 48 Match ( metric FAL ) .308 bends the case neck in about a 1/8 inch on the top upon extraction . Still puts em in the same hole at 100 but its tearing up my brass ? Have you heard of this ? Gas block set on 3 .

so whats happening if there coming out the same just some is higher an some is lower? as is the case with mine

I put a GSL GT.556 suppressor on my Ruger AR pistol and when I shoot it the primers are coming out of the casing and causing the weapon to jam what is your recommendation? I have a non adjustable gas block.

does this method apply to an AK rifle with AR15 buffer-stock ?

I have an issue where my gas block came loose and was over gassed after I put everything back together. Any ideas?

This is the way it works for 223 AR-15’s, but my experience with AR-10’s was the opposite. When I was overgassed my rounds would fling back to 4-5 o’clock, and undergassed we’d be 1-2 o’clock. I don’t know if that’s like a documented thing, but that’s how my AR-10 is and took me forever to figure out

Having your ammo eject that way all the time can be an issue with lower powered ammo, or dirtier/inconsistent ammo