Hi, The Diverter valve = BOV = Recirculating valve = Bypass valve. Mercedes calls this valve a diverter valve. It can also have names such as Recirculating valve or Bypass valve. All have the same objective - release the compressed side when the throttle is slammed shut (mainly). BOV - Blow-off valve is typically referenced as the valve type to release into the atmosphere, where as the others return the air back into the turbo. Your vehicle already has a diverter valve. The only need to upgrade to a BOV is so you can hear it and if you are nitpicky, the compressed air is warmer.. and for that brief moment, hotter air is re-compressed. Some comments suggest that stock diverters start to leak or cant hold closed when approaching certain pressure levels. At some point, that would hold true. It does not up to 37psi.

@@m.j.r.productions6276 Thank you for your kind reply! Now I could understand.

Hi, Priming can be done using the Mercedes STAR diagnostics tool and only primes the low pressure side. If you mean 'wont stay on' as in the Pump or the engine? The first place I'd look is to ensure the ECU Calibration has the proper fueling tables calibrated for the Alpha 45 HPFP. I did not require priming. Fired up within a second of first start.

I have a 2016 FL A45. My turbo has a blanking plate, so I’m not also sure where I would connect the electrical harness. This is the only factor between me either getting a mechanical Kompact shortie dual port or the Kompact EM. Would prefer the EM but need somewhere to hook it up.

@@11Nisbeth thx for feedback, I have already AMS fitted the TurboSmart BOV 50/50 on my car, the surge is redirected to intake manifold and some into the atmosphere

@@exup76 cool. But you have the same issue of nowhere to connect the harness for the EM setup right?

@@11Nisbeth it’s different BOV, it’s been made specifically for older M133, before AMG decided fit in factory valve, it’s called “TURBOSMART BOV KOMPACT SHORTIE DUAL PORT VR03 “

@@exup76 thanks. Yeah I know the official names. Just not sure how the electronic valve (specifically the harness) will fit my car. No worries tho, I’ll speak with my tuner and find the best workable solution. Good luck. Hope you find a solution that works for you too 👍🏾

These parts are basically bolt on. If you have all the tools, Id put the required skill level at 4 out of 10. 10 being - custom fabrication or full engine build requiring all the math (e.g. Valvetrain geometry). my background: late model engine performance and ECU calibrations since 2000 with a range of vehicles - hobby only. First time working on an AMG. Quite interesting to see the difference in engineering and approach to North American manufacturers. There are several companies that build these drop-in turbos and parts making this really easy for you. These videos should aid you and walk you through what is involved. Depending on your skill set, if you have never done an oil change, this might be a bit overwhelming. If you have changed some parts here and there (i.e. alternator, water pump, fans, coolant changes) and have no fear unplugging wire harnesses, you should be ok. The most important part of your build will be the ECU/TCM calibration.

@@m.j.r.productions6276 Thanks for the information. Do you have any advice on how to eliminate wheel spin on launches on an unprepared surface? I would love to find a tcu/tcm specific tune that can lower the rpm on launch to minimize spin. I feel like spending the money for stage 3+ would just make the problem worse. I read about a gearbox specific tune through EST performance in the UK but im in the US. I really appreciate your thoughts. Thanks again.

@@peterruggiero202 Just the obvious - larger and sticker tyres. I am not sure how adjustments within the TCM would help. Its engine making too much power... But I don't see a way to adjust spark / power during a launch and have it ramp to max afterwards.

The M133 valve from Weistec is a mechanical and vents to atmosphere. They all do the same thing fundamentally. Its a question of, do you want to add plumbing of vacuum lines and a BOV that is loud OR Turbosmart electronic versions - which the ECU controls. Electronic has small advantages from a calibration perspective and can be controlled exactly how you want the valve to operate in all conditions. Cost is slightly less for the electronic Turbosmart... or conversely, Weistec is a bit pricy for a mechanical piece.

the diverter valve / BOV main job is to prevent compressor surge. a) release any back pressure that would cause compressor surge. - this happens when the throttle closes and pressure spikes. b) during shifts, will either release for a brief moment to prevent surge during the shift (and you just cant hear it), or stay closed to optimize continual boost when going to the next gear. Last thing you want is to waste time having to re-spool / pressurize after a shift. The valve is likely not opening as these transmissions shift quick, the cam angles - with the exhaust pop - allow bleed of compressed air during shift so no 'spike' in pressure would occur anyway. Logging the electronic valve voltage during WOT would confirm.

@@m.j.r.productions6276 thanks for the fast reply. When will you be posting a video of you driving? I'm planning on posting a video later hopefully you can view it and advice me if you think my car sounds normal. Thanks in advance.

@@CarlosFlores-cu9vo snow, ice, pandemic really delayed the dyno appointment - still waiting. Drive bys, accelerations in the works.

Several videos on pause due to minus 30 and too much snow. Next up was to do drive by inside and roadside shots, on the Dyno... weather hit too quick, minus 30 too much snow... and dyno shops locked down due to covid. Sorry, will be a few months...

@@m.j.r.productions6276 Thanks for the reply, but can't you just rev up the engine to sample the BOV sound?

@@deans536 Negative. This BOV is electronic controlled aka via the ECU. Activated within the mapping settings, including requiring positive pressure. You cant obtain positive pressure without a load. Parking and revving it doesn't create any positive pressure for the BOV to go off. Tried it. A 'stationary' engine load would be activating Race Launch, not sure if that is enough to trigger the BOV or if the pressure dissipates in the rev down. But it also requires temperatures which would take a very long time at idle to reach if ever (especially the transmission). Soft launch isn't enough to trigger BOV when letting off. Hope that makes sense.

@@m.j.r.productions6276 Got it!! thanks for the explanation.