I know right!

You sir, are a legend. Why have I put myself through this struggle so many times? haha

Thanks so much!

Thanks for watching! Got a few new videos coming soon!

That's a great suggestion! I do that too and it really does work great! Just dab the spot a little bit and smudge it with your finger and its barely noticeable!

Same, I’m a bit stuck with the power button error. Also I can’t get it to setup windows and not sure if this is an issue related. I can setup the uefi to boot from usb and use my win10 boot stick, but it restarts mid setup (assuming part of the setup) and goes back to the error message and the setup cancels

In the past with a different precision 3630, I actually cut a hole in the inner case mesh with tin snips, by the internal speaker, and crammed a zotac amp holo 3070ti into the stock precision case. It fit and worked. I had to use a corsair 1000w psu which also went right into the precision case no problem. Temps on the other hand were really and I mean really bad. The issue with how densely and compactly they pack everything into the case is everything sits on top of each other with little to no airflow. The graphics card dumps heat up into the psu and stock cpu heatsink which is kind of small. With an rx 580 you miiight be okay, can't hurt to install it and test it out.. I would highly recommend you recase though. You will see substantially lower temps. I do think you will see your cpu and gpu regularly over 90c in the stock case though. You can use an aio like a corsair elite h100i with this precision in a new case. You could probably fit a 120mm little aio in the precision but at that point, it's not worth the hassle. I have thought you might be able to rig an 80 or even 120mm fan in front of the psu where the front drive cage is. That could be cheap easy upgrade to the stock case.

@@darkgalacticmedia Thanks for the reply! I may have missed it before, but what was the model of the vrm heatsink you put on the motherboard? I'll probably put the 580 in for now, and then move it all over later on.

On Amazon just search "Dell Precision 3630 heatsink". Should be the top hit, it is by BestParts. It's like $15!

@@darkgalacticmedia Nice one, I fiddled around with benchmarking the CPU on cinebench with stock everything inside the precision case. While it does run very hot, it actually was being power limit throttled, not temperature. I did some research and was told that increasing the TDP limit from 65w to a higher level will stop this power limit throttling. I tried it and it worked, no power limit throttling and eventually it got to a point where the CPU was hitting high 90' so clearly temps are an issue I'll have to sort out. With regard to fiddling with power limits on XTU, is it safe to do? I don't want to blow anything up, and is there any chance the power limit throttling could be related to the non-heatsink vrm getting throttled?

​@@emm5005 Personally, I would lift the power limits, but actually try UNDERvolting the CPU slightly to reduce power draw for the same frequency (I have a 12700k in an NR200 original case, which Ive undervolted and it can now overclock to 5GHz all core (instead of one or two cores) at a lower power draw than the stock 4.7GHz all core). As you surmised (and I would agree), the board is probably power limited because it is a hot-box and the VRMs are not heatsinked... Fit the cheap Amazon heatsinks to the VRM, lift the power limits and try a little undervolt as I suggest above. If you want to keep it in the case but want better cooling, you can either: A: 1) turn the PSU around so it is drawing air from the CPU side instead of from the case side (assuming the PSU has a fan in it, which I think it must as it appears that in the stock config it's only cooling would be to pull air from the case side which doesn't have a grill there so there would be no airflow naturally) 2) This would mean it is fighting the CPU for air in my configuration, so I would then flip the CPU fan so it is pulling air through the heatsink instead of blowing into it. This way the PSU fan will actually help the CPU fan. 3) However pulling air through the heatsink will then only pull air over the top 1/4 ish of the heatsink, so I would then make a shroud from Gaffer tape / Duct tape that covers the heatsink side of the fan down to 3/4 of the heatsink, forcing it to draw air from the bottom of the heatsink and help cooling some more. B, if you are really brave with a dremel, IMO this is the better option: 1) Remove the power supply and strip it down (remember to VERY carefully avoid toucking the internal components with your hands or screwdriver as the caps will hold deadly amounts of charge for days after it has been turned off and unplugged from the wall) 2) Use a dremel or drill to enlarge each and every one of the inlet and outlet grill holes on the PSU case. EDIT: if needed... I just looked closer at this video and ones for sale on Ebay, and it seems they don't all use the same design of PSU... some have larger mesh, like this video, and some have smaller mesh... however it is worth pointing out that this video's PSU has a 92mm (whereas others have a 120mm fan) facing the solid PC case side panel, just like all the others?!?... Flip it 180 no matter what else, and if it has a 92mm fan, hack the PSU to take a 120mm fan with extra ventilation drilled or dremmeled out to match. 3) Flip the fan in the PSU so it's sucking into the case from the back instead of ejecting from the case. 4) Refit the PSU so it's flipped 180 degrees, so its now drawing air from outside and blowing onto the CPU cooler. **This will also have the added benefit of putting some downdraft airflow over the VRMs.** **The incoming air will be warmed a little from the PSU, but it'll be nothing compared to the hot-box the case is at stock.** Either way: 1) Also, theres a PC speaqker at the bottom front of the case? Move that to the bottom of the case and fit a 120mm fan over the grill inlet. 2) There should also be a grill inlet hidden by the HDD and HDD caddy. Move the HDD to the bottom of the case and just affix it with velcro strip or double sided tape (metal to metal, not electronics to metal)... This will allow you to dremmel out the caddy, or at least dremmel out large holes in the caddy to let air through and fit a 120mm fan in there too. **If you use option A, set the front fans as intake as the case exhaust is at the rear. If you use option B, flip the fan stock fitted at the top of the case so it is intake as well as the PSU, and set the front fans to be exhaust.** 3) It looks like the case has 92 or 120mm mesh holes in the side of the case... put another couple of matching fans there oriented the same as the front fans (if the front fans are exhaust, these should be too, it will make the case negative pressure and pull more fresh air in from the top of the case, past the CPU cooler. If the front fans are intake, these should be too, so the case will be in posative pressure and force more air past the CPU cooler and OUT of the top of the case. Remember that these fans' orientation should be set by whether you go with option A or option B). You can just stick them on with that foamy thick 3m type double sided tape. Cut it into thin strips to go all around the edge of the fan so that it both dampens fan vibaration (cos it's the thick foamy stuff) and forms a good seal so it's only pulling air from outside, not recirculating some of the internal air. 4) You can actually set all these additional fans' speeds surprisingly low and therefore quiet as you have just turned the case froma hot-box to an airflow king, with a lot of elbow grease but very little money (you can get away with cheap ass fans, they don't have to be noctua or be-quiet fans!) **If the front plastic that looks like diamond vent is actually diamond pattern on solid plastic, get to work on its back face, firstly with very rough sandpaper, then finer sandpaper to finish it tidier... You literally want to sandpaper off the whole of solid plastic layer behind the diamond mesh pattern... you can try cutting the diamonds out with a dremmel or something, but trust me, it will never look well done... sanding off from the rear will be messy in the process, but can give you a perfect, stock-looking finish from the front... whilst sanding, don't do it on open air or on your knee as it will weaken the mesh pattern and be easy to break it and push it outward; do it on a solid surface that supports the mesh from the front whilst you apply pressure from the rear. A motorised sander like a sanding mouse is obviously much easier and quicer than doing it by hand with a sanding block. Also try moving up-down for a bit, then side side for a bit; it will get through it faster, then with the fine sandpaper work in circles to get a tidier finish.** *** Any drilling or dremelling of the metal PSU or case? Fully strip the PSU first so you're not getting metal filings in it that could cause a short. Same for the case; fully strip the case so there are NO elecrical/electronic components in it before you start cutting.*** Disclaimer: I don't have a Dell 3630, however I have built unconventional small form factor builds and have been forced to come up with inventive solutions to cooling... For example, I did have 15 years-ish ago a slim cased Dell based Celeron 3GHz, which I removed the CDRom from, in it's place adding a second HDD in raid-0 with the orignal hdd, fitted an NV 8800GTX (I think, if I remember correctly) slim gfx card, and overclocked the CPU to 4.5GHz (The Celeron 300A 300MHz was a beast for an easy 50% overclock, and so was the decade later Celeron D 3GHz) on its stock slimline cooler. I modified the case a bit to improve airflow too, though.... I took the top off the PSU, clamped it to the front of the case and drilled through the plastic using the metal holes in the PSU shroud as a guide so they were perfectly lined up and it made a very tidy stock looking vent pattern... For the metalwork behind the plastic, I drilled one larger hole and used a jigsaw to open it out into a ring so I could fit a fan (just 80mm, but basically I was limited by the width of the case and it was 1000% better than the nothing there before) to draw in cold air. There were two 80mm grllles in the bottom of the side panel too, which I double-sided taped two more fans onto. They didn't have to run fast, and in fact running them faster made no difference, but with them fitted I could stable OC that old Celeron D by 50% and the temperatures were reasonable. It was very hacky, but for about £170 total I was getting 95%+ gaming FPS of my mate's £2000 custom built Q6600... Sure his was MUCH better at multithreaded so he could open multiple IE or Firefox tabs cuncurrently with a game whereas I could only do ONE THING AT A TIME, but all games back then were single thread, so with my manually stripped down services on my XP install, and just opening a game, I could virtually match his performance in game ... he was a bit miffed 🤭 Also, my current 12700k mentioned above has the pump/cpu waterblock from my old Arctic freezer II AIO, cobbled onto new tubing to an aftermarket EK waterblock on an RTX 3080, an XSPC slim 240mm rad in the top with Nocpooa slim fans and an alphacool 280mm rad in the bottom with standard Nocpooa fans. I have modified the case internally a bit to get everything to fit, and the GFX card is fitted vertically, upside down, to get it to fit too (that needed less modification to the rear of the case than if I fitted it vertically the right way up). Both the CPU and GPU are undervolted. As a result, the case LOOKS stock, but has adequate cooling to be virtually silent when gaming (fans are at about 45% to 50% when gaming) with the CPU and GPU at less than 65C too. (typically 62C and 48% fans) (30% (which IS silent) and 29C at idle or watching KZfaq, using Office, etc) EDIT: Oh yeah, I also modded the Coolermaster 850W SFF PSU with a Nocpooa 92mm fan because after getting everything else so quiet, that was then noticably noisy...it wasn't noisy per-se, but I could hear it 😅 (Final point worth mentioning; the case is so crammed full, there isn't room for a reservoir for the cooling loop, so I fitted quick release fittings to the tube just before the CPU pump/block inlet and have a resrvoir on quick release fittings which I used to fill and bleed the loop, then removed it and put the internal quick release fittings together to turn the custom loop into a sort of custom AIO).

They make a difference. Many may not see it, on the XPS 8700 at the bottom where the chrome intake is, one can attach a 92mm intake fan. Their "high end" models will have this, Dell goes through the trouble of concealing this upgrade with thick black paper. I only found it when cleaning the the inside. Many of these will take a Noctua cooler of a small or low profile size. Much better than stock fan!

Optiplex isn't atx.

Yeah thermals, future upgrades too. You can always throw a new motherboard in this down the road, but you couldn't really get a new motherboard in the future for the precision. So I would say this is really just a teacher build to get first time builders some experience. It came about out of boredom honestly, just wanted to build another computer. haha. I stuffed a 3070ti into the precision case in the past too. I had to cut up one of these dell precision cases internally, so larger cards literally don't even fit inside this precision, but I was seeing 100c on the cpu and 80+ on the gpu. It was bad. haha

I had a 240mm Corsair h100 aio on this motherboard awhile back and I don't see any reason a larger air cooler wouldn't work too. I think it would be fine for clearance. The peerless assassin and the snowman coolers are pretty good too! Honestly even with the stock air cooler, the 8600 doesn't seem to have any issues staying under about 70c.

I will try to do a short follow up soon!!

That would be a great upgrade for this pc! I have used a corsair psu on these before. The motherboard is standard atx. This build was just reusing parts,it is not my personal daily rig. I use a 13600k and 3070ti as my personal build. If you upgrade from the stock 460w psu to a larger one, it also opens up more graphics cards too! The 6650xt I used on this is about the max the stock 460w with one power connector will support.

@@darkgalacticmedia 20 pin or 24 pin ?

@@darkgalacticmedia i usesd a Medion motherboard in a new case however iam using it as my personal rig as u call it got a i3 and a 1050 ti oc and 16 gig ramm stick single channel 4 years old now and still working stock cooler and added some rgb fans to it the case is a rammbot 998-b.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/msCVrZOHp9HDhqc.html

Thanks for the comment!! I can try to do a follow up video to explain the fix and possibly do some benchmarks etc!

@@darkgalacticmedia that would be great! Please do!

Yeah i fixed it, i just reused the power button in the new case

Micro atx I believe. They are quite as long as a full size atx board, I would get a full size atx case though, for future builds!

@@darkgalacticmedia thanks again

I don't know what you mean by under power. The power for the graphics card is supplied from your psu. I think this was on a 460watt psu. This card pulls around 180 watts I believe it was. In games this configuration uses 100% of the 6650xt and in most circumstances the 8600 i5 is nowhere near 100% utilization. Meaning this cpu and motherboard does not bottleneck the 6650xt, but I would not go much past the 6650xt or you will start to see bottlenecks on better gpus probably. In most games you still want really good single core performance. So even the older 7th and 8th gen cpus are still relatively adequate even for 1440p gaming. Now if you want to stream or run multi monitor and browser tabs on another screen while gaming, yeah no, won't happen. Just gaming though, easily over 100fps in 1080 high settings. I will post some benchmarks on this build specifically soon. As for pcie generations and lanes, other youtubers have proven pretty extensively that most gpus cannot saturate gen 3 pcie. Dawid even running a graphics card on like a single lane or something crazy. So the gen 3 lane on this dell motherboard is plenty to handle the entirety of a 6650xt and even more really. I had a 1000w psu and a 3070ti overclocked running pretty flawlessly on this exact motherboard cpu combo. As for a comparison to the ps5, I would say the 6650xt is about equal to slightly better maybe. The theoretical teraflop performance if you google them are both around 11 teraflops. You could do more on the pc set up though over a console. With a new cheap power supply you could run a 6800xt or something a little better even and whomp the ps5. Motherboards and cpus are not terribly priced anymore so a z690/13600k with like a 4080 or 6950xt would probably be my recommendation though unless you happen upon one of these dells.

GTX 1650 or RX 6400. Get the low profile version of either card

Do you know which ones?

I can't find where he covered it either

I seem to remember it just wouldn't work for some reason? Bios setting we can't change, maybe? I plan to do some follow up videos possibly. So, I'll look into this again, but I seem to remember it is a standard usb3 connector but for whatever reason, it just doesn't recognize the case's front IO. So, to make any use of the port I took the cable from the Dell case and hid it in the basement so you got some functionality.

Cool Cool man I like to see the video and you getting that front IO working. I've seen these boards with 9th gen Intel i7 9700s and 9700F, the whole bare bones PC I think was $80 US and came with the PSU and mobo, I have an i9 9900k, so I wonder if it would support that CPU and I could build a secondary rig with a 3060ti for the wife. I think that CPU could handle that RTX 3060ti just fine. @@darkgalacticmedia

Solution discovered: ground the #9 pin to ground. The pin numbering is silkscreened on the motherboard right next to the f panel pins. What did was put a wire into the #9 on the connector and put the other end to the mobo standoff screw right next to it for ground. Error disappeared and Dell is none the wiser :) . I found this solution form the KZfaqr “ITG Gear”

I definitely would if it was my daily rig, or if I give it away, but I didn't have any better air cooler when I filmed this. My daily is a 13600k/3070ti with a corsair aio. This was just a video of what I had laying around. It at least kind of shows people how to install a cooler, and it got some fresh thermal paste. What cheap air cooler do you recommend?

@@darkgalacticmedia Thermalright Peerless Assissin ... very cheap £40 in the UK or $40 ish in the US ... but it performs WELL above it's price class. Like really well.

@@aaronjones4529 Is this easily installed on the dell precision 3630 motherboard? I've been looking at aftermarket air coolers to use instead of the stock cooler but not sure how easy or difficult it is to stick them on this motherboard. Is it as easy as replacing the backplate and you're good to go? Also, the cpu fan header on this motherboard looks to be 4 pin so i'm guessing it won't need any sort of adapter to fit

@@emm5005 reportedly the dell precision 36xx series use standard CPU cooler mounts, so you don't even need to replace the backplate in most cases... Replacement coolers will come with screws and/or standoffs which will fit the default backplate 👍 This being the case, it is worth mentioning that they will of course also take AIO directly.... if you've relocated everything to a different case, this easily enables fitting a 240mm+ AIO should you wish, however if someone wants to build a "sleeper" gaming PC in the original Dell precision case, then some single slot 120mm AIOs will fit on the CPU under the PSU, with the radiator at the top front (with a little bit of HD/SSD relocation and cutting of the internal case, but honestly just a bit of modification)... This mod cools the CPU far quieter, and will keep it cool when gaming, and vastly improve workstation CPU loads too, boosting higher for longer with a quieter fan noise.

I wonder when the CPU / case fan errors are showing. Can we use 120 mm fans or only 92 mm (i assume BIOS will check rpm)

They definitely still have a few years of life in them, especially for gaming!

I will benchmark, but you'll be surprised. The i5 8600 is still pretty capable in gaming and the 6650xt carries most of it. You won't bottleneck the 6650xt at all on this build. On 1080 high I wager you'll see 100+fps on most titles if not way more at competitive settings. Probably decent on 1440p too. I guess if you wanna compare it to something like a 4090 obviously it won't compare, but lol. Dell just needs a better bios with xmp speeds settings lol

Sometimes you have to edit the registry to prevent windows from automatically updating and replacing your amd drivers! I did have issues with windows replacing amd adrenaline with the workstation pro version even with the new rx6650xt.

@@darkgalacticmedia I've actually uninstalled amd drivers with ddu and re-installed without adrenaline. Just driver only. Only way I've been able to keep any instability away from my 6800xt.

I totally relate. 70 bucks isn't it? I even heard some negative things about the plastic quality, the bit retainers break. I think it is Kobalt at lowes has a lifetime warranty no questions asked. You can straight up saw a screwdriver in half and they will replace it. Yeah though, zero shot you'll see me with an LTT screwdriver unless it is basically free lol

@@darkgalacticmedia Great video, though. A bit on a lenghty side 😁. Subscribed

I know! I kept thinking like I can cut that, or fast forward though that, but I decided to leave it long in case there is some obscure bit that might help someone build one. I am surprised the video did as well as it has! What else would you like to see in content? I am basically doing builds/how tos/ gaming content

@@darkgalacticmedia You do you, dude. I have some experience with those office PCs (Dell, HP, Fujitsu,...), and to be honest I didn't agree with all you did (in a manner "I would have done that differently", ya know... But I really enjoyed it and am looking forward to your future videos!

​@darkgalacticmedia Kobalt has multiple multi-bit screwdrivers that are what I use working on PCs, Pi cases, my car, etc. Very high quality, very affordable. I also like the 4-pack of magnetic screwdrivers from Dollar Tree. Yes. Dollar Tree. They are not high quality but they work and they are cheap enough to have them hidden away everywhere. In the car, in every tool box, drawers, anywhere.

The 6650xt is not "too weak". That seems silly.. First, you went on to say you like 8th gen and the 8600 is in fact 8th gen. They are a surprisingly balanced system. Not to mention you can always take your graphics card and put it in a new system when you upgrade to a new motherboard and cpu!! So you can really overbuy on a gpu.. Get what you can afford.. anything 3rd or 4th gen pcie will be fine.. A lot of games dont require a lot of cores as much as good single core numbers and the 8600 is still fair. Alas the 6650xt is cheap enough and you also need to consider driver support going forward. So if you get a cheaper card you may not have support much longer for drivers! Happy New Year!!

Like I mentioned in previous comment, this is not my actually personal computer, just a for fun with parts I had laying around mostly. My personal is a 13600k and an oc'd 3070ti amp holo. I got a few of these older dells from a friends work that got rid of them. Honestly, the case is far from a waste. You can always reuse the case and I know from first hand experience the temperatures are about 20c hotter in that restrictive case. So, the case and graphics card are both reusable on a future build. The frame rates are actually pretty decent all considering. Would I recommend someone go out and BUY an 8600? No way, but if you have one already, it could save you a little money and get you gaming sooner than saving hundreds more for a z690 and 12th or 13th gen. Honestly, 13th gen isn't even too expensive so there is no point in seeking out a 10th or 11th gen. You will still spend hundreds to end up behind. We are constantly chasing the new fancy things, but like you said, this is more about repurposing old hardware, learning and having some fun along the way. Yeah though, a case is never a bad investment, you can reuse it for years to come on new motherboards. Especially these corsair 4000s. Great mount options for aios in the future etc. So you could run a pc like this with your old dell mb for a year and save, then get a new setup and it would swap right in lol. Plus it looks way nicer in the meantime.

I would also encourage someone to do a swap with older hardware like this to get some lower risk to asset experience tinkering on their computers. It may build the confidence and experience they need to become a lifetime pc builder. Where if it was their first time assembling a $3k computer they may be really scared and decide to buy a prebuilt or have a friend build it. so it is also kind of about showing people, " Hey you got this! Give it a try, before you assume you can't!"

@@darkgalacticmedia Both good points... in another thread I talked about one of my previous builds on a Dell slimline workstation sporting a Celeron D ... at the time I was flat broke, but I picked up the then 4 year old second hand workstation for £50, added an on offer near end of line NV 8800GT(s)(x) slimline GFx card for £85, a second hand, second HDD to set up raid-0 for speedier filesystem access for £20, and a cople of case fans for pennies on the pound... With some inventive case hacks, I didnt even need to change the case, and with an un-scrupulous OC, I got 95% the FPS of my mates £2k beast of a PC. It wasn't future-proof, but at the time I was broke and I got a gaming machine for a pittance, and it was all so cheap that if I effed it up with the mods or OC, it wouldn't really matter in the long run. I built my first computer in 1985 when I was 10 years old (a Spectrum ZX80 or 81, which wasn't a PC, but they were an early computer that came in kit form for a cheaper price than ready built) (I've been a geek for a very long time, and I was hooked from that very first build!). After a couple of Speccy 48k's, I had an Amiga500 which I hacked to have 1.5MB ram where stock it had 0.5MB and could normally be upgraded to 1MB. My first PC build cost a beastly £1600 in the early to mid 90s, featuring a Cyrix 150MHZ, Matrox Millenium GFx and truly hench for the time 64MB ram. (Although I did build a 286, 386 and 486 for my older brother beforehand)... Since then I've been building constantly for myself, friends or family. Sometimes on a shoe-string, trying to eke out the maximum performance from older depricated hardware, sometimes lucky enough to be temporarily affluent enough to splurge on the most advanced system that money can buy, (although usually making that last a few generations through aggressive overclocking and savvy midway upgrades... I had my i920 when they first released which went through several generations of GFx cards, faster RAM, one of the very first SSDs, then two of the first SSDs in raid-0, before finally upgrading to my 5930k, which in turn saw 3 sets of RAM upgrades, two M2 SSD upgrades, a GTX980, 1080Ti, 2080Ti and 3080 10G, until my upgrade to 12700k when they released). When I build a just released hardware system, I just install Windows and usually leave standard settings in BIOS, etc, as it's so overpowered I don't have to worry about system overhead. As the PC gets closer to the end of its lifespan and it's starting to struggle with newer games, I then start OC'ing and stripping useless services and Microsoft Certified Malware from Windows to keep it current for another year or so before I finally bite the bullet and upgrade the Mobo & CPU... Because from my most recent system build, I wanted an uber-quiet all powerful gaming system, I did spend quite some time in XTU, BIOS and Afterburner undervolting with a minor overclock too on each, however as it ages there is plenty of scope to ditch the quietness, crank the fans, and crank the OC, and I'll learn how to strip down Windows 11, just like I did for 3.11, 95, 98, XP, 7 and 10 😅 ... and yes, I have heard of Atlas OS (I didn't use it for 10, chosing to strip 10 manually myself), but I'm sure I will give that a try when it releases and matures a bit for Win 11 😁 I'm hoping the 13th Gen Intel will get a stepping refresh before 14th Gen release, which will allow them to OC further than current stepping... Either way, I'll buy a 13700k cheap when 14th Gen actually release, and OC the bejeesus out of it to keep my current MOBO for a bit longer. And I'm forgoing the 40 series, and will wait for the 50 series NVidia, primarily because I want the Pimax 12k and I'm well aware that that will take a beast of a GFx card to run at full resolution (Im currently running a Quest 2 but solely on PC, having previously had the Oculus CV1 (and I even had the Forte VFX1, the first commercially available VR headset waaaaay back in the mid 90s; Quake II and Descent were truly EPIC for their time in VR) My long point being, you're right that once you've built confidence on your first (potentially cheap ass) system, you'll realise it's not that scary and may well "get the bug"... and it is amazing what you can eke out of cheaper hardware with the massive self-satisfaction associated with that too!

You might be surprised to learn that its probably not losing that much, if anything. Current gen cards actually come nowhere near saturating the available bandwidth of current PCIE. I recently noticed that my riser cable was badly seated / had shifted since I first built the PC... I only noticed because I cracked up CPU-Z to make my own video, and noticed my 3080 was running at PCIE4x2 not PCIE 4x16... There was absolutely ZERO loss in FPS in the games that I play (Atlas and Forza 5) and, as I say, I only noticed on a fluke... I was somewhat alarmed initially to realise that I was leaving performance on the table, but I reseated the riser cable, checked it was running 16x and checked my games, and I hadn't gained ANY fps...not even one or two! EDIT: Nor was there any noticable pop-in at 2x, which could be another symptom of poor bandwidth instead of FPS loss.

Agree! Would have slapped a rx580 (+ or -) in the original, new ssd, maxed the ram capacity and speed, and called it "Done!"

This is mainly aimed at a beginner. They may have this computer already, and be a first time builder that might be afraid to build for the first time on more expensive parts. So this little case swap could give them not only the courage to build again in the future, but the case can be reused on pretty much any future build. Not to mention, if you stuff a graphics card into the Precision case, the thermals are terrible. So beyond an appearance upgrade, the case gives you the platform to get a new CPU and motherboard, but then you can save a little bit in the meantime and still get the build experience. I mentioned in another comment this video was just for fun, I have a 13600k/3070ti z690 mb with 64gb of ram, 240mm aio. My friend gave me a few of these older precisions, so I have just been having fun with them. I would stand behind the motto "a case aint a waste" haha.

@@darkgalacticmedia ah, I see. Thanks

Thanks for checking it out! Glad I could give you a laugh! haha

First, it would be difficult to use the stock case's power switch with a new motherboard. Also, the thermals are awful, I can't overstate this enough. I don't get why everyone is so triggered on the case. I mean, of all the parts, graphics card included, you can reuse the case over and over on future builds. Literally every other part will become obsolete before it for the most part. Say you did buy another motherboard, which also might need another copy of windows which might cost you, then I assume you reuse the 8600, instead of spending even more, which isn't overclockable. So in reality then, you spent as much or more for a system that will underperform this configuration. Then when it's all said and done in the future, you don't even have a decent case to start your next build. As mentioned the point wasn't to build a computer from scratch or obviously no one is going out and sourcing these motherboards specifically. If you have one, great, and you're a kid or on an extreme budget, spend that money on a graphics card instead of a nicer cpu/mb atm, I mean heck guys. Save the hundred bucks on the case all together and just build it open air on a piece of cardboard in front of your ac unit lol for the best savings and temps. Point is, 50-100 on a case will be useful for temps, fitting larger cards, and supporting future builds for years. Plus it'll look cooler and we all know that is important haha. It won't be an issue then when you have a new case and graphics card to save another couple hundred and then go z690 and a 12th/13th gen etc. Let's agree on one thing, don't waste a bunch of money on upgrading the ram in this system. Otherwise I think it would be less intelligent, from experience, to try to spend any money and try to reuse that dell case. Oh did I mention the dell case doesn't have a removable IO shield either so putting a new motherboard in that case will require cutting the backplate of the case with a dremel or something. I would use this motherboard/cpu for months or a year then upgrade the mb/cpu later. Too each their own though. The alienware cases are just like these folding psu precisions and their temps are terrible too. You can't fit a very good cooler in them. even aios don't really fit.

i should see the video before I critique it sorry ....

Life really do be like that sometimes haha

This one video has more views than your entire channel....