Yeah. I read 1thou as 10thou :/ This was the first video where I used Resolves "Dialog leveller", and it crashed on me about seven or eight times. I need to work out the workflow, as I also heard some clipping in the LH ear on my headset. Sorry about that.

I got really lucky. This one came up for sale locally, when the owner got a Biax. I really like it. It is a lovely too.

I started scraping by grinding the teeth off the end inch of an old file, grinding and polishing the 5 deg negative rake and bought a tube of generic Prussian blue oil paint from an art supplier and go for it. It is easy.

Thanks.

Luckily that was not necessary, but it also a good idea.

Thanks for the feedback John. That Coborn is also a good workout for me. It is pretty heavy, and you need a very tight control on it. It gets tiring pretty fast.

Hi Jasper. Yeah, I cant pass up on a rabbit hole it seems :) Go for it. You can start by grinding the tip of a worn out file. Prussian blue from the art supply store and some sort of surface plate, and you are off to the races.

@@RotarySMP I'll give it a shot....

@@jster1963 That is how I got started. Ground the teeth off a file, radius on the nose, 5° positive rake, and a nice mirror hone. You have to rehone it a lot, but it works fine.

@@RotarySMP Excellent. Thank you!

Thanks Ed.

That is funny timing. Was your slot also a bit misaligned? I got lucky that it was also undersize.

@@RotarySMP there was no slot, so I used a 4mm wide parallel in the bed slot, which I clamped in the vise jaws and strapped the vise down to the bed upside down and milled it. It was only a 50 euro vise for a small hobby machine, so dimensions are less critical. I made the 4mm blocks myself from normal hot rolled steel (since I have no clue where to get tool steel in small amounts for a decent price).

@@josseman Nice solution.

Thanks Pete. Kind of "slow and steady wins the race" :)

It was lucky that the slot was under width more than misaligned.

@@RotarySMP now you know it is accurate.

@@akfarmboy49 I was quite surprised how well that worked out. Especially as I did it :/

Thanks.

Thanks Joel. I sure hope so, Pretty happy with that result.

I was glad it was just a Mark reading indicator wrong error :)

Some one pointed out that they are always part of the 3 surface method, as you are always rubbing them on the work as well.

Only after I edited that I starting thinking. Two stones has four surfaces, so I you mix it up and don't aways rub like on like, it would also have the same effect.

The surface being stoned is a third surface, too.

@@somebodyelse6673 exactly

@@somebodyelse6673 Good point. I didn't think of that.

Good tip Martin. Thanks.

I am glad to have that job out of the way. I always meant to make some keys, but once I received tham I was out of excuses.

I don't tend to mix the paint in advance. I just mix and use, and so it doesnt have time to gel. This is a tube of Prussian blue oil paint I bought from the art supply shop about 10 years ago, and is only 1/4 used so far. I like the WD-50 handy, as I use it to clean as well.

Duh! I should have thought of that :/

This is a great idea!

@@HM-Projects It would have been.

I only found it after I'd given up, and finished editing the video. It was when I rendered it out and watched it that I thought... Duh! And went back to the basement and milled the slot.

Yeah, it really is a nice machine. Heavy and it takes a fair bit of space, but works really well, and doesn't scream loudly :)

@@RotarySMP Yes, I was impressed by how qiet it was when you turned it on!

@@philhermetic I do drop the audio level when machines run, but that is a nice hum, rather than the scream of the angle grinder motors Biax uses.

These ones are so nice and precise, and the Maho slots are also very high tolerance.

@@RotarySMP Yeah I believe that, mine are just some scraptonium

I couldn't bring myself to drill into the Maho's table...again :(

It sure is!

It is something I had been meaning to do for years.

No worries. It is weird how easy it is to find 50 year expired film, but everyone holds on to their 2 year expired stuff :)

Thanks Joe. I was pretty happy with the result.

I checked the T slots of the Maho with one of those super precise keys, and luckily they are still very accurate. The slots have a constant firm sliding fit. Very nicely machined by Maho.

I will get to that sooner or later.

That is also a good solution. I am lucky these slots were misaligned by less than they were too narrow.

Hi John, Yeah, you can imagine I had a nagging feeling at the time that the 0.25mm error seemed excessive. Finishing up the edit at about 21:00, I finally work out that I was out by a factor 10x, so I went back to the basement and machined it like I originally planned. Duh!

Good point. I probably should have mentioned it in the video. I thought about it, but: 1/ My Y travel is too short to cut then in one go 2/ I couldn't think of an easy way to align it to fixture along the bed 3/ I have never used the vise that way 4/ if I need to I'll have to remove the keys from the current position. 5/ for the occasional use case, I can just tram in the vise.

Thank you! Cheers!

Good point. Those are studs, but I also have nuts which I could slide under there.

That is a good point.

You and me both... once I saw it in the edit :/

G'day. There is an interesting comment about them above. It was pointed out that the three flats method is at work with only two stones, as you also have the surfaces you are dressing. Those stone you made are excellent. Thanks again.

Yeah, I already got that message in the comments here as well :)

@@RotarySMP It does make me wonder why real machineshops, making real money, (ie messier dowty q400 landing gear for example) spend many thousands of dollars/euros on fixtures that locate precisely onto the the work table. Perhaps its the same sort of percious thinking that hold that you are not a real "machinist" if you use digital instruments. I have met probably over a thousand machinists and visited perhaps 200 different machineshops and manufacturers, guess what ,they all had vices with keys and digital gauges.

@@steveggca :) Thanks for that input Steve. As a hobbiest in my basement, I have little clue what is good advice and what is polemic.

@@RotarySMP No problem , just to flog the idea a bit further , the width, parallelism,spacing, and X-Y alignment of the T-slot's are held to the same geometry and accuracy as the machine it's self ,BECAUSE its intended to be used for alignment of vices and fixtures. If you have the inspection report for your Maho you can confirm this for yourself.

@@steveggca I could feel that with those precise keys I was given. Their fit in the Maho T-slots was a very consistent snug sliding fit. All over.

Yes, that will come sooner or later. I have little exectation of this vise's quality.

I hve no expectations that anything is really swaure and flat on this cheap vise. Since you have to start somewhere, I started on the base. Sooner or later I will get around to scraping the ways in flat, and fixed jaw perpendicular.

I wasn't sure if it is a good idea to mix the different grits, but that will work. Also the the part to be stoned is a third surface.

The Maho t slots are really accurate, as are those 14mm keys I was given. Both mic'ed out dead on 14.000mm. I got lucky that the existing slot was undersized by more than the alignment error.

Thanks

Yeah, that was a suggestion I heard after I finished :) Didn't think of that.

Sorry about that Jason. I'll aim for a boring video this Sunday, so you can get back to your projects :)

@@RotarySMP ah yeah ! I just bought a new to me boring head for the mill, that would be perfect 👍🏻 🤣😂 You do a fantastic job of making darn near everything we do look spectacularly easy. Except for that CNC stuff, I only have manual machines. I know absolutely zero about anything involved with CNC, so I wouldn’t know the slightest when it comes to that. But with your content I’m beginning to consider a path where I might scratch the surface ever so slightly and see if I could learn a thing or two. You really are a multi talented guy. Very intriguing I must say. Carry on my friend. My projects are not going anywhere, they will wait me out for sure.

@@jasonhull5712 What mill do you have? Did you get one of those boring and facing heads like Wohlhaupter, or a conventional boring head? I only have one of the crappy import ones.

@@RotarySMP I have a import as well, the mill is a Bridgeport “Clone” it’s a Promax 3 Hp variable speed 9x42 and I have a Clausing Metosa C1330S lathe (actually two of them as I’m in the process of repairing one to sell) and I wish I could get my hands on a Wohlhaupter, I just have a conventional import boring head at the moment. I’ve been hunting for a boring/facing head but haven’t found “the one” yet. This import has no markings on it so technically I can’t say for certain it’s a import. Just looking at the quality of manufacturing I’m thinking it’s an import. But for $50 A guy can’t Scoff at it. It’s a 3/4” with the R8 shank so I have loads of tooling that fit it. I just don’t have a lot of experience with boring heads. I’ve always just used the necessary end mills or the lathe. I too am operating out of a small two car garage so space is very limited. Next on my list is a tool cutter grinder and or surface grinder. I am in Indianapolis Indiana and for some odd reason I’ve found tons of great deals on old machines, just absolutely nothing in this state. They tend to be in Ohio. Or Kentucky, or Georgia or … well anywhere but here. Haha. So I just keep looking once or twice here and there and eventually I’ll find something to drag home. I mainly just do small odd jobs and some work for locals here and there. I have a couple larger machine shops near me that Toss me scraps from time to time. But I really just tinker as a hobby. I just enjoy metal fabrication and machining. I restored a 1970 Camaro and I build custom Drones for racing and hobby. I also come from a family of wings. Father and two uncles build and fly single engine aircraft, A/P mechanics and executive captain for American Airlines. Grand father worked for Delta Airlines til he retired. So a lot of what you discuss and show in your videos I can relate to and am interested in. I am a HVAC-R technician so I don’t get to see much of the aviation scene anymore. But I’m rambling.. I’m sorry.

Over here the used tool market is very fragmented. Swiss machines in Switzerland, German machines in Germany etc. So you have to monitor a bunch of different Craigslist type websites to find out what is available in the neighboring countries.

Hi Andrew, I haven't done any other checks on this turd-vise, but I can see that I will be scraping the whole thing in sooner or later :)

Not any time soon :)

I would expect that I wasted 15 minutes every time I dialed n the vise.

Not yet, I assume this is all over the place on this cheap vise, and figured I'd start with the bottom, and then scrape the guiding ways and fixed jaw to align with it at a later stage.

Do you have an indicator in a tool holder? That would also be really fast.

@@RotarySMP no, but I have a DTI on a magnetic base that I attach to the milling machine "headstock"

Once you add the second (or third) vice, this becomes harder... (Although it can still be reasonably fast. I recommend a micron indicator as it's sooo much easier to see the change without much movement)

@@ewildgoose yeah good point, not necessary for people like me that hardly change the vise out but very handy if you're doing it often enough though in that case it would make sense to leave multiple workholdings mounted on the table 🤷‍♂️

About typical for my 5Min jobs :)

Not yet. I need to scrape the guiding ways parallel, and the fixed jaw vertical, but will do that later.

This is a very old 1/10 000" indicator my Dad gave me. I don't know why it has this tip, but it is a really nice indicator.

Those keys I received are very precise, but there are some dings in the table which may effect accuracy.

@@RotarySMP Yeah, that's what I mean. Keys may be super precise but there's always something askew. Better to indicate that stationary jaw than depend on keys if precision is necessary. But almost always keys are adequate.

@@coreoocoreoo1059 I would need to do a lot more work on that turd vise before that was the keys were the limit of accuracy :) I do still have a grinder vise, I could strap down and dial in for more accurate work. Need to get a lot better at maching first.

Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate that. They were a gift from a viewer.

@@RotarySMP aww do you have any idea where to get some thing like that or equivalent ? I have searched up and down the internet at this point .

@@IcDave99 Stefan Gotteswinter advertises them on his website. gtwr.de/precision-benchstones/

@@RotarySMP oh woow thank you so much !

@@IcDave99 You could also just buy three stones and rub them together in varying pairs until they were all flat.

It would, assuming that they were parallel in the first place. Probably not a valid assumption for a cheap chinese vise. I will need to scrape in the guiding ways, and fixed jaw sometime later.

@@RotarySMP scraping still seems like black magic surface science to me so I was just curious

@@mitchellstrobbe7779 Ideally I would have surveyed the whole part, as I could have found reason to scrape an angle into the base to correct an error elsewhere, but it is the biggest surface, so it is easier to make small corrections elsewhere.

Ask Ricky of trailer park boys. I think it is a canadian thing :)

I had a nagging doubt when I wrote 0.25mm, thinking, "that doesn't look like a 1/4mm". But it was hours later, once I had finished editing and watched the first draft when I was like "Duh!"

@@RotarySMP it doesn't have to be in the video for me to hear the swearing 😂

@@olestampevestergaard4746 You are not wrong there :)

1/ not german (Kiwi in Austria) 2/ I have a metric DTI, but it needs repair 3/ my Dad gave me that Verdict 4/ It is a really nice tool to use. :)

You like them :) Keeps the prussian blue off the skin when scraping.

Good point. It starts with my pretty crappy mag base. And that I dont do it often enough to get fast.

@@RotarySMP You don't need a mag base. Just hold the indicator in a collet in the spindle. -Doozer

@@kooldoozer That makes sense. Another tool holder dedicated to the indicator. That would sped things up too. Thanks for the tip.

Tony also has a Maho, but an earlier model. He has a Schaublin manual mill as well.