wow! I remember making that video, it was the asw608, bravus 8d, and SE8!

​@@NemoPropaganda hi Nemo. There is new kid in the block. Can you do comparison video of s510, rel classic 99 and rel ht1205 mk2.

@@PremKumar-vt1hq maybe in the future, I've covered a lot of REL this year already, I have to give some attention to other brands also :)

glad you find them helpful!

Awesome, thank you!

that is a very strange comparison to request and would not make any sense. The 1723 1V weighs 106lbs and substantially larger than all of these. It would be like comparing a deisel truck to a sports car.

I think that's way too niche of a brand for my small channel :)

I'd say the R3 Meta can go either way depending on the room and what its connected to, in an ideal setup with higher end amps and a bigger room S510 for sure! If you got a little room like most R3 Meta customers, figure something like 10x12 I think a T9X makes more sense.

I don't know anything about that but Sonus Faber is a giant company and usually giant companies want to work with giant reviewers but maybe one day :)

You’re a giant reviewer in my book ;) @@NemoPropaganda

yup! 1003 is great!!!

I'd almost remind you of the T5X but I know your musical taste and for sure you will prefer the 1003 MK2, it conveys the double bass VERY nicely!!

yeah I hear ya, it's a tough decision. I'm guessing you're torn between the T9X or a 1003 MK2? Best advice I can give you is this, if you have the money and it's not gonna break the bank go for the T9X, but if the cost is going to cause stress or any financial strain don't do it. Buying stuff is supposed to be fun so if the price causes financial strain then it won't be fun and only cause stress. Hope that helps.

REL actually had front controls on subs a long time ago, it certainly can be more convenient but you shouldn't need to make any adjustments once it's setup well unless you're moving stuff around constantly or changing gear up.

Very different subs, the KC62 doesn't have the speed & refinement of the T9X (very few subs do) but it has tons of extension as long as you keep the volume reasonable. The T9X doesn't have the extension fo the KC62 but has more bass fidelity overall.

@NemoPropaganda rel it is then :) I do have a rel ht1003 sitting around. it's not the newer version. just wish they came in white.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qKuqY5aJ0MnXnH0.htmlsi=uYfxeklSFHwcJAMA

hop in the free discord where you can post pics of your room and we'll try and help you the best we can.

I have not heard of that brand but If they offerred me a review sample I think I would decline the offer. Def stick with the 1003 idea.

@@NemoPropaganda thanks a ton... Will go with REL 1003

Also mate I am struck between MA silver 50, 100 and 200? I am inclined towards 100 cos of ur review of bronze 100. Unfortunately I can't listen to all of these.

@@venkibe035 Hi bro, since all 3 speakers are made by the same company have you tried contact MA to see what they say? Sometimes different sized speakers can sound very different like emotiva b1+ and b2+ or triangle BR02 and BR03. First I think you have to decide if you want towers or bookys. If you're having a hard time deciding try to consider your room aesthetics and what look you're going for.

@@NemoPropaganda have written to MA.. i specifically called out ur channel as the influencer !!

no, I don't think they like my content, I've tried to contact them a few times but never got a reply, I saw the owner at Axpona and gave him my business card, balls 100% in their court at this point.

The T7x is better for music. Just watch the review on the channel that he has already done on it.

Both are great but between the 2 the T7X for sure.

@@NemoPropaganda Thank you very much

I'm not sure, I have not heard that speaker, try emailing REL and see what they say. They are very good at helping customers choose the right subwoofer.

that's an extremely high crossover point, I generally don't recommend people run their crossover too much above 50hz, north of 100hz is not a frequency range for subwoofers.

​@@NemoPropaganda really? maybe on the higher side, but not that high like you wrote. usually 80hz is the THX standard crossover. and you always have to see the whole system. If you have lets say B&W 702 floor standing speakers with 46hz at +3db and 28hz at -6db - you can easily choose any crossover point, which perfectly fits with subwoofer and room modes. but many people will have speakers with 50-70hz at +3db, and then it is not as easy anymore. you cannot cut off the subwoofer at 50hz and let the speakers take over from 70hz. you need good transition, and based on my listening experience and also with many Dirac measurements done, for my speakers (62hz at +3db) it sounds best for home theather, when having the crossover at 100hz for the subwoofer, and 80hz for the speakers. it gives me a good transition, you never notice if the sub or the speaker is doing the work, and you have good powerfull punch also at 100hz. if I do the crossover below that, the zone from 80-120hz has too less punch, it sounds like a whole in that transition zone. and usually the "rule" is, cut off at minimum 1 octave below/above the maximum possible measured signal from speaker/sub. meaning if Dirac measured that your speaker is able to play until 40hz (there then it rapidly falls down) you can have crossovr at 80hz. and if the subwoofer is possible till 200hz, you can have 100hz crossover. these both points are relevant for the possible "crossover window" the wider the window, the better you can choose the crossover point, the narrow it is (like in my case with just 86hz) the less options you have, and the more you have to set crossover based on your speaker skills, and not based on usefull accoustic concecpts etc. I only can repeat myself, the whole conecpt sounds far better with SVS because it can easily reach higher frequencies

@@LukasZ92. sounds like you are doing theater, I'm not really into that, my YT channel is for 2ch music, I'm happy you have found a process that works for you, theater is not my area of expertise.

​@@NemoPropaganda ah ok therefore the misunderstanding :D yes it is about theater in my case, and actually the REL HT series is specially made for that, and that is why I'm even more wondering why it has that cut off at 100hz. for music of course it is total different, subwoofer is really just an extension to the very low frequencies, but not in home theatre. unfortunately, I will send the REL back to the retailer... is useless for me.. but another thing, which you please could also check: if I set the crossover at the REL iteslf to 30hz, and the speakers in the AVR to 200hz (meaning that there is a big gap) and playing music, there is still lot of bass coming from the REL, but doesnt sound accurate. If i do the same for the SVS, no bass at all (exactly what I expected, because usually music isn't playing that extremly deep) - the SVS must be turned to at least 60-70hz to hear any bass (not because of the sub, becuase of the music) and the wider I turn it up the more bass was there (because like wrote, speakers for testing reasons set to 200hz). at the REL, there was also a difference when turning crossover higher, more punchy more direct etc. but that gap to 200hz never has been closed fully unlike for the SVS

HT 1003 MK2.

yes, I have demo'd subs for non-audiophile friends many times, I say nothing and just ask their opinion, the funny thing is they even use the same discriptors we use. It's a very interesting thing.

This is a very overly general question but I own multiple products from both brands.

@@NemoPropagandaMakes me happy Nemo didn’t say REL right away. Feels like an affirmation that I made a good choice with my Rythmik and that it isn’t an easy question to answer which says a lot. Thanks again, Nemo.

Shawn I own Rythmik because of Nemo’s review but I think as you go up to the s510 you surpass anything Rythmik has to offer including the F12SE from a fidelity perspective. The fvx12 is going to give you a great combo of fidelity and excursion. Just depends on what you want. The rel products look way better but imo the rythmik is the better value

I’ve owned two models from each company. Ended up preferring Rel mostly because of aesthetics TBH. But functionality wise, the Rythmiks dig deeper, are more adjustable (lots of settings on the plate amp) and have better bang for the buck. That said, the rels just seem to work without finicky setup. Just drop them in and go. With either brand you are in great shape.

@@sean_heisler you can't go wrong with either option!

I have not heard the old 7i but I'm surprised you dislike the 1003 MK2 so much, in my room I was able to blend a T7X and 1003 MK2 in L&R stereo perfectly!

did you use RCA for both or high level on the 7i and rca on the 1003 mk2?

I found why are my t5x slow and bloated, I opened them and found that driver and power supply are connected with fast connectors that you can easly move with the finger (poor connection more resistance)...I know I lost my warranty but I removed them and soldered wire directly..man that sub is now very very responsive and tight...maybe thats the production problem there but I dont care...2x t5x for my stereo in 20m2 room are realy good enough...one other thing is that if you dont have carpet underneath, I recommend to use small silicon hemisphere pads...the sub will lift a little bit but the bass is gonna be even more precise

@@NemoPropaganda The 1003 is hooked up with RCA only and the 7i is hooked up by both RCA to the LFE and Hi Level, like REL recommends. I own a Yamaha RN800A. I was just told it's a mistake, that Yamaha doesn't have a real LFE, that it's just low input. So I'm confused how to connect the 7i. Hi input only?

why do you keep listing your setup in my comments section without any context??