lol I think your the only one who couldn’t figure out the spring 🤣

I been working on a pro level. Don’t drag a line but push it from yourself doing a slight zigzag motion having metal go fed but not yellow cause you’ll burn! Vertical welding is way harder but the ceilings are for the pros only!😂

Ordered yesterday in your video doesn’t look bad should work for me 🙏 tnk you

Got mine in today. Work from home so took a 15 min break. Ran out to garage and plugged her up, threw in a roll of .030 and just did a quick spot weld with my eyes closed just to make sure she works. Didn't have time to do much anything else, plus my new helmet won't be here til tomorrow and didn't take time to throw on the old cheap Harbor Tool helmet. I'll wait on the YesWelder True Color one and then try some real tests. Life is grand.

It means that the TIG torch has a manual valve to turn on and off the gas since there is no electric solenoid valve in the machine it means you have to turn on the gas flow with a knob on the torch then remember to turn it off and if you forget you will leak out all of your gas out of your bottle.

Okay, as a fellow newb, mind if I correct something? Switching negative and positive does /not/ change the current from DC to AC. The Flux 135 Pro is DC only, there is no AC mode. What it does accomplish is it changes whether your electrode (the bit you're holding as you weld) is negative or positive. This, it turns out, matters a whole lot more than you'd think. Flux Core is /generally/ DCEN, meaning Direct Current, Electrode Negative. MIG on a DC-only machine (AC, I don't know about) is /generally/ DCEP, meaning Direct Current, Electrode Positive. TIG is DCEN, Stick is DCEP. Why does this matter? Practically, if you run flux core that's made to be DCEN in DCEP mode (the packaging will tell you, I assume there are exceptions), you're going to get a lot more spatter and, presumably, get a worse weld. Why? ..yeah, again, I'm a newbie figuring this stuff out, but from what I can gather, you don't get equal amounts of heat on both sides of the arc (like, 70% vs 30%). The positive side tends to burn hotter than the negative side -- which makes sense, MIG being solid wire would probably take more heat to weld than a hollow tube of the same diameter, right? Since most videos explaining just say running flux core in DCEP-mode makes for spattery unpleasantness, I'm assuming that's because you're getting the flux stuff to combust faster or earlier than designed due to the excess heat. It also means you're getting less penetration where you want it. (And, I would imagine, if my reasoning on the increased spatter holds true, it also implies that the self-generating shielding gas isn't doing as good of a job as a result, but that's pure theory. Not everything that makes sense in my head has any bearing on reality. :P) So's my understanding, anyway. I haven't seen any flux core machines that boast AC flux core. I'm not real sure why. What little I do know is that AC is what you need for welding aluminum, something about the cycling polarity removing oxides or some such. But that's a whole other machine, using a whole other process, used for a whole other operation -- I haven't even plugged my Flux 135 Pro in yet. :P Just wanted to see someone else set it up first. :P Would love it if I never have my wire go all rats nest-y on me, but for today I'd settle for it not happening my first time. Let me feel like I'm not utterly out of my league, let the snags come a little later. Anyway, thanks for the video. ^.^ And no worries for getting bits wrong -- and no worries if someone corrects me, either. To get good at something, you first have to be willing to suck at it. Same for knowledge, 'cause for all that I know today, there was a time I didn't. And you plain can't progress in any endeavor if you psych yourself out from ever trying. (That's as much to me as you. :P Time to go set up mine so I can, hopefully, give a whirl tomorrow.)

Just ordered the FLUX 135 PRO from Amazon. Price was $139 with a $40 coupon. Got it for $99 + tax. Was too hard to ignore. My old Harbor Tool welder doesn't feed the wire mover half the time and is frustrating and need one to do body repair and exhaust pipes. Also went ahead and ordered the YesWelder True Color helmet.

That packaging with the foil is a great thing because sometimes wire might sit on your shops shelf for years before you need to use it and if it isn't packaged well like that then it wont be usable due to corrosion or dirt oil hydrocarbons ect.. without first cleaning it of the contamination

tryna get a flux core welder recently, yeswelder flux135 seems to be a good choice, waiting for this pro one to be on Amazon, thanks for the detailed video!!

Just placed an order for one of these. The 40 dollar off coupon made it a pretty nice deal. Hopefully it's just as good as the chicago electric one from Harbor Freight.

I think the spring goes the metal washer and the round black disc

BEWARE: The company does not sell parts or support items not purchased through their official channels. "After reviewing your order details, it appears that the purchase was not made through our official store. Unfortunately, we can only provide after-sale support for products purchased directly from our official YesWelder stores." ~Yeswelder support

I have the last generation 135. Love it. Stick isn't great, but it's smooth, powerful, an reliable with 035 wire in it. Incredible what 100$ can get you these days. But, I concur, the instructions are completely useless. Wish they'd start using real copper leads tho too

Spring goes between the washer and black plate.

they should have upgraded the hardware. Its just like the regular Flux-135 with a different screen, not necessarily better or "pro"

Does it work with 220v?

I just got this welder and I can't get the mig to work. It feeds the wire but no spark. Am I missing something. I've welded for years, I definitely have a ground. Wtf.???

Read instruction manual first. Also you are probably going to melt the insulation on your clamp cable.

Put the spool and holding hardware on as directed in the instructions. Tighten the thumb screw enough to act as the brake for the spool. But not too tight, and not too loose. Same for the drive wheel. Don't tighten the clamp on the drive wheel too tight. Just enough to have a good grip on the wire.