😂😂

😂😂😂😂

😁

i seen a wheelcheer e-bike, last week, in my town The Netherlands, just 1 front wheel build on it, was looking good. but not a hub wheel like this. i will film it when i see it again.

was more like this : kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nNB8jbOSqNPQeZc.html

Truth what's the point of living till 100 if I can't drive a sporty mobility scooter

That was a really nice moment! Something else to keep in mind while riding ebikes are helmets, most people wear cpsc helmets, when they should be wearing nta helmets like xnito or bern hudson

Why not 48v on the back 24v motor as well?

😂perfect, I was searching some feed back 350W. Thought it won't change much. 👍 Thanks, go for 500w now.

Well said I was thinking the same thing

Well the motor makes more POWER when you feed it higher voltage. 250w@36v is about 7A. Feed 7A @52v in the same motor, you get 364W. All things being equal of course but you get the idea.

@@lunchie80 What do you know about 'blending' a 72V battery to a 48V battery/motor system to up the 'working voltage' of the bike to 60V...?

@@johnw65 thats not gonna work

@@bobosneef2 I see a lot of folks putting 52V to 48V motors... Is there a limit? As long as the controller can handle it?

dont know anything about geared motors. but direct drive motors are the dogs bollox for overdriving them

Thank you mate. Can you give us more details on how?

Thanks I've never tried one yet!

This happened to me too. Dropouts sheared off. Fortunately I was coming to a stop before it happened so no injuries. Shouldve put a torque arm on or 2.

Yeah that's the thing It works until you put too much load on it. What people forget is that in order to reach equilibrium when going from 36V -> 48V battery for example, is that you should also swap out the controller for something that can either be current limited, or a weaker controller that delivers lower max Ampere. Otherwise it's a gamble in the long run. The S886 display has P14 Current limit for example, the controllers that are compatible with that would be ideal. As you can lower the current settings to make up for the 30% boost or 40% boost in Wattage when going from 36->48, or 36->52. Same principle for you if you went from 24->48.

@@JesusChrist-sx1lf dude change your name, you are probably offending a hundred million people.

What’s a 22a kt?

@@La01781 Just a brand of controller, KT you can pick them up cheap, Decent and have a lot of settings to play with as well.

🤣

Really don't think he cares enough tbh mate.

I want to see this video made in snow or winter conditions :D

It's preferred that the controller have a equal or higher wattage rating than the motor, otherwise you are going to push the controller to it's very limit once you reach a certain speed or if you're going uphill and don't use pedal assistance which can cause it to overheat. But yes, it does work under some circumstances. If you use it with pedal assistance and maybe not the max mode, then for sure.

Yep!

@@delmanorshun2471 What do you mean 'Yep!'?? The guy asked a question, grip throttle or thumb. Answer the question boy.

If I had to guess, the battery is 20 aH, maybe upper teens at the very least, judging by the size of it.

I've had a trek fx1 + yose 350w/36v/13ah For 12 months, perfect match for me £415(bike +£380 (kit)

Look for an older steel Trek Multitrack, Specialized Crossroads, or Giant Innova. I think the steel dropouts could handle the torque of the motor better over the long haul. You could also beef them up with a little welding.

If your existing motor isn't rated to use 24 volt battery

Look at a video on Electric Bike Laboratory where they disassemble a hub motor and waterproof it with spray epoxy, then add Statorade to improve cooling.

"Update" It blew up the controller so installed a new controller, then the geared hub gave up ruining the motor windings so be careful about what motor you get !

@@neilmartin1111 Yeah you pushed it too far with 52V. Going from 36V to 48V means a 30% boost. Going 36V to 52V means 44% boost. You shouldve stayed at 48V and not push your luck any further. Might work on a flat road, but once you go uphill or put more load on the motor it's gonna be generating a lot more heat than it's designed for those kind of Wattage. A lot of people do upgrade to 48V from a 36V system. But there's no guarantee how long it will last as it very much depend on the controller. If you have a "mid-end" controller that's only delivering 13-15A at max current, then swapping for a 48V battery would probably be perfectly fine. Yours probably deliver 20+ A I'd imagine. Even at stock it's not meant for a 350W hub.

Yeah my son blew it up

@@DudeStuff Yea I saw the other video. The reason why I didnt want to buy a 48v1000w wheel with spokes is because I have a magnesium alloy wheel. They just look badass. I guess I just have no other choice (There are no magnesium alloy mtb black wheels with a 48v1000w hub motor) Thanks :D

Phase wires melted he was giving his mates backies 😄 told him not to.. kids 🫣

I’m thinking about doing a similar build. Is your bike still running good or did it brean