Super cool! Great job.

Thanks, I kinda already got aggressively low voltage cutoffs anyway, but I also have a beeper that alerts me prior to getting LV pushback, as pushback itself requires more amps, which further increases the sag. But I should soon build a new 16s2p (maybe even 18s2p) using P26a cells to replace my 1p battery. The p42a's are going to be repurposed for my ebike...

another thing that will help is adding/soldering extra thick copper wire ontop of the nickel strip, that'll help to reduce the voltage drop, because nickel strip is thin and not all that conductive compared to copper by itself that will reduce resistance and voltage drop

Voltage sag is a fixed property of the battery and is a function of current drawn. The only way to reduce voltage sag is to lower battery amps. So there's nothing in the VESC tool that can help with that. You can't really lower your current draw without also reducing performance.

Range is very tough to estimate because it depends so much on terrain and rider weight. On flat roads I (160lbs/75kg) can easily get 10+ miles out of one charge, but once you add hills you quickly cut that range in half

Yeah... you'll loose a but of performance to make up for sag. For the range, let me know what you get on avg, after testing it for a bit! I hope you have fun with the new config.

Assuming identical cells and identical riding conditions, sag will be more or less proportional to overall cell count, so 24 vs 16, i.e. 33 percent less sag with 12s2p

the original Onewheel controllers cannot handle higher voltages, so you'd have to stick to 15s, but also all of the newer models don't support battery upgrades at all, the controller is locked to the BMS

@@surfdado i got the last firmware compatible with the "chi battery", yeah i wasnt planning to overvolt anything on it, just add more capacity with better cells. so 15S pack, made to fit the original enclosure, just like any other lithium pack, and thats it right? so much limited info on DIY battery packs, guess for good reason haha

@@RyanArmstrong89 yeah, in that case I'd assume it should be plug and play, especially if you reuse the existing BMS - but honestly I'm new to the whole Onewheel scene, there are FB communities where you may want to ask this question to confirm.

@@surfdado cheers mate, really appreciate it!

My spot welder is just a timer (Arduino) controlling a solenoid which gates the main power source. I do plan on creating a video about my spotwelder soon.

ask about that on this discord server - I'm sure someone can help you figure out what's going on. This doesn't sound right. discord.gg/KX5rtBEd

Would have loved to just take a pre-built battery, but for the Funwheel there was no factory battery. So the only option was DIY. Now Floatwheel did offer a battery but that one is only 44V and also notoriously weak. Also I needed a higher voltage one and there simply is no factory battery. If you want to DIY a OneWheel you gotta be ready to DIY your battery or pay someone to make one for you

it's very similar, slightly larger stator - but the funwheel motor is no longer available. The new one is more powerful than a XR/GT motor

litte focer is 84V max - cheap focer is 60V max

@@surfdado I did not realize at the time there was two versions of the focer , I'm a noob but learning lots, your videos and info you share has been a big help. I was planning on using phub188 and cheap flipsky 75100 FOC but after watching your videos and discord I decided to use SuperFlux hub with littlefocer.