Great video! The reason for locking up is the type of bearing. They are designed for vertical loads (therefore it's a vertical bearing). If you use a thrust tapered bearing then it will still spin freely with it tight (depending on how tight of course). It all depends on where the load is coming from. (There's also horizontal bearings as well).

Hey, why didn’t you sponsor it? There’s a lot of views ,I’ll bet a lot of people ordered. You should do it. I ordered them just now.

If I recall correctly, The 2S, 2Z suffixes signify the type of seal. 2S means 2 seals (like the ones you prefer in the video. 2S, or maybe written SS) you can get 1S uncommonly and they only have a seal on one side. 2Z are called shields and are used to prevent contact of the seals on both races to reduce seal drag. The don't have as good dust/water resistance though. Can be written 1Z as well with only one shield on one side.

I've used thrust bearings on quite a few things that I've made (knife sharpeners, spinning tool/pen holders, etc.), both ball-types and pin-types, and you can really clamp down on these with a fair bit of axial load. I love using any type or size of bearings in my stuff; I've been fascinated with them since my dad brought home from work a giant (to me at the time) roller bearing, which was around 150mmØ and a few smaller ball bearings that they'd replaced off an induction furnace. Okay, I admit it: I _may_ be quite weird in that respect. 😄

@@troyd-motorsport9933 ⚠️ God has said in the Quran: 🔵 { O mankind, worship your Lord, who created you and those before you, that you may become righteous - ( 2:21 ) 🔴 [He] who made for you the earth a bed [spread out] and the sky a ceiling and sent down from the sky, rain and brought forth thereby fruits as provision for you. So do not attribute to Allah equals while you know [that there is nothing similar to Him]. ( 2:22 ) 🔵 And if you are in doubt about what We have sent down upon Our Servant [Muhammad], then produce a surah the like thereof and call upon your witnesses other than Allah, if you should be truthful. ( 2:23 ) 🔴 But if you do not - and you will never be able to - then fear the Fire, whose fuel is men and stones, prepared for the disbelievers.( 2:24 ) 🔵 And give good tidings to those who believe and do righteous deeds that they will have gardens [in Paradise] beneath which rivers flow. Whenever they are provided with a provision of fruit therefrom, they will say, "This is what we were provided with before." And it is given to them in likeness. And they will have therein purified spouses, and they will abide therein eternally. ( 2:25 ) ⚠️ Quran

Interesting. I figured it was something like that, but glad someone smarter can verify! Thank you!

Indeed If you supported the inner race you would find the pressure of the nut has no effect

@@scatdawg1 right on!

yeah this is the issue, put spacers on either side and it wont lock up

Yeah, good point. Nobody wants their balls pinched 🤌🏾

Good point! I suppose I figured if it's taking enough force to insert the bearing that it's ruining it, you probably need a slightly bigger hole 🤣 but thank you for pointing that out, as you are most definitely right.

Interesting. It seems even more strange then that an 8mm precision shoulder bolt still isn't 8mm... Are there any bolts that you know of that have an exactly 8mm shaft, with M8 threads at the end? P.S. Thanks for the info!!

@@christophersfactory it's very unusual to see a 8mm shoulder with m8 thread - m6 is the standard. I'm also not sure how you see as much slop on shoulder bolts as you do on normal ones - standard tolerances are on the order of

@@christophersfactory shoulder bolts need to be "precision ground" for bearing applications, normal ones are undersized by up to 0.1mm

Aka interference fit.

Good thought on the serrated inner surface; triangular teeth on the ID would crush progressively, and should keep the bearing pretty well centered as it’s pressed in, without offering as much resistance as a solid wall. 👍

I chased my tale for ages (about 3 months) with friction fits into plastic (with pins rather than bearings) for a project - trying to optimise my hole sizes, making jigs etc - till I realised that friction fits need precision holes - just not repeatable in fdm plastic - as when you come back and try the same In 3 months it doesn’t seem to work - but most importantly - plastics are prone to creep under static load, so if deformed elastically to hold a part by friction in time it will relax. Nylon - which is less prone to creep changes its dimension with humidity - so that will lose grip because the wa rather changes ! Best stick with glue was my conclusion - as even at screws are still relying on elastic deformation of your 3d part …

Indeed! Thank you :)

This is such a good remedy for that! Good thinking, thanks!

​@@christophersfactory This is how quick-release bike wheels are assembled but instead of a pre-assembled bearing cartridge, the hub has cup-and-cone races with loose ball bearings. Two nuts are tightened against each other on the hollow axle/bolt to hold everything together without squeezing the bearings to death (seizing up). The quick-release skewer (the part most people manipulate to change a flat tire, etc) goes through the axle and is just there to install the wheel on the bike, it doesn't really apply any force to the bearings or hub. Applying the right force with the lockl nuts to hold things together is a bit of an art. Too little or too much can damage the bearing races and/or make the wheel harder to spin.

Or use a locknut :)

@@ItsWami I don’t think a locknut would do the same thing: You want to load the bearings with a specific compressive force, then lock the nuts at that position with check-nuts. Locknuts either rely on the force spooled against their flange to keep them from turning, or have nylon inserts to do the same. I don’t think Ny-loks would offer enough resistance to turning to be relied upon in something like the bike-hub application.

The discrepancy is caused by both! I can only speak to Cura -- it definitely doesn't account for extrusion width. I believe on some slicers you can specify if you want your features to be at least their specified dimensions, or at most, but on Cura, it traces the path of the identified diameter. You are right though in that the shrinkage of thermoplastics plays a big part in it, I should have mentioned that!

​@@christophersfactory I don't really understand what you mean, I agree with the commenter. The dimension is given by the stl, and if it's a "hole" features the slicer knows it should be 22mm and the path will be slightly outsetted. if it's a "pillar" feature the slicer places the path slightly inwards. Feel free to test this out by setting your extrusion width in the slicer to a comically large number eg. 2mm and you will see the effect - the hole should still be near 22mm. The effect you're seeing is likely coming from poor extrusion tolerances and the fact that the layers aren't perfectly straight Have a good day

@@christophersfactory Cura absolutely compensates for the extrusion width. I've tested it by exporting the toolpaths as a mesh file. This generates an OBJ with all toolpaths modeled with their respective heights and widths. A 20 mm hole measured 20 mm across "corners." As id said, the slicer knows whether features are internal or external based on the normals of the surfaces the mesh is composed of.

Seems like it would be an oversight for a slicer not to compensate for extrusion width, especially when it knows what your extrusion width is to begin with. I think it has more to do with hardware inaccuracy/thermal expansion/contraction than the slicer not compensating… but I will say when working with tight tolerances, my go to tolerance is 0.2-0.3.

I will add a little bit of nuance to this discussion and say that slicers using the slic3r engine (prusaslicer, super slicer, bambu studio, orca slicer, etc) actually do give slightly inaccurate walls, but for a different reason. Slic3r overlaps perimeters for better strength, but the results is dimensions that are a tiny bit off. In Orca Slicer fixing this is as simple as checking the "use precise walls" checkbox (at the risk of reduced part strength, and in extreme cases delamination of the outermost perimeter). Cura, however, does not overlap perimeters (as far as I know), so this is particular cause does not apply there

Of course! Glad I could help. Much more exciting content to come :)

Glad I could help you fix your nut problems! Sounds like lubricant was your issue all along. In a future video, maybe I can help you calibrate your extruder flow! 😉

Thank you so much! That means a lot to hear :)

This comment just made my day. Thank you, li'l bacon :')

Not sure how this video was made without this point included.

I doubt this is how slicers actually work. The slicer usually knows which nozzle diameter you use and will acount for that

Interesting! I wouldn't have thought it contracts enough to work. I'll have to try this! Thanks!

wow thank you! that might be the answer i was looking for. i will let you know how it went.

that didn't work at all, it made no difference. this might work with metal or if you have very large bearings but mine is only 22 mm OD and the PLA is too soft for this to work. the tiny change in OD form the temperature change makes no difference at all.

​@@dronefootage2778 This trick only works if you can very precisely control tolerances between fitted parts and those parts have rather similar thermal expansion coefficients. You can't do that with "standard" 3D printing.

@@zkasprzyk that makes sense. the solution i came up with is to print a cap that gets screwed on.

Holy cow! That’s quite the discrepancy. I’m not familiar enough with the politics of Brexit but that’s certainly unfortunate. Cheers, friend, thanks for the comment 🙏🏻 glad you’re here

Exciting! For me, it was one of the best purchases I've made in years. The enjoyment I've gotten out of it is completely disproportionate to the cost. Cheers!

Glad you think so! Thanks

Thanks! :)

YES! I should have said this in the video. That's a huge one that helps with fitting these bearings in.

You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it.

You are absolutely right! Glad to have so many smart people that follow me 🤙🏻 thanks!

Thanks! I'm glad it helped you! If you ever get the stroller design set up, I'd love to see a picture of it, that sounds cool. Cheers!

Thank you so much! I very much agree, and I probably will make a part 2.

I forgot to say this in reply to the last comment of yours I saw, but I have to thank you for your positivity and kind words. It's very inspiring to me to keep doing this channel and make more videos. It goes a long way. Thanks again, from the bottom of my heart. Christopher

@@christophersfactory You are very welcome. There's too much negativity on the internet. A little kindness can go a long way. You mentioned a few days ago that you finally received the electronics you needed to start collecting electricity from your windmill. Will there be a video showing the results coming soon? 🍿

@@schmidtyyt You're awesome. Yes, the parts finally came, but I realized I had a fatal flaw that rendered the PCB's I designed nearly useless. I saved a few by cutting the traces out with a utility knife and re-routing some connections with hook-up wire, but being the perfectionist I am, I didn't want to show that in the video, haha. On top of that, I redesigned the turbine, but I'm now in the process of redesigning it again. I've used pre-cut plywood up to this point, but I think to have it work really well, I need to get better at learning how to cut and work with thicker and more durable woods. The plywood I've been using warps horribly. I just started working with this stuff called hardboard, I think it's made from compressed sawdust. I can already tell it's much less prone to warping, but it's slightly harder to work with. I'll probably have to redesign the turbine hub to accommodate the heavier and thicker boards.... this is all to say that there's a lot I'm re-working; I told myself I'd wait to get the "build video" out until I was done, but now I'm thinking I should just make regular, almost vlog-style updates on what I'm doing. Viewers would probably get more benefit out of that anyway, because learning what doesn't work is arguably just as valuable as learning what does. I have a few other non-windmill-related videos already shot and edited scheduled for this week, but windmill content should start back up next week, especially after these words of encouragement :)

@@christophersfactory That sucks about the PCBs not working as hoped. I know nobody likes to admit failure much less broadcast it to the world, but showing what went wrong may help others avoid the same mistake. As a wise man recently said, "learning what doesn't work is arguably just as valuable as learning what does." 😉 I'd expect the hardboard to work better for you, as well. And I totally get the design re-considerations that brings, too. However, I have to ask: why not 3D print them? As for working with the hardboard, check out the Dremel Ultra Saw (great Black Friday deal at Amazon today). I found it to be a great little saw for cutting thin wood and metal.

@@schmidtyyt I completely agree about the failure bit. That was one of my goals when I first made this channel, was to candidly show people my efforts in these projects, not just showcase a finished project. As for why I'm not particularly inclined (although not opposed) to printed blades, there are a few reasons. PLA warps really badly in the sun, especially with large and thin features. If the blades are not thin, it will use a lot of PLA, which is much more expensive than wood. I could try printing in nylon or ABS, but I've never worked with either before. My short experience with wind turbines has taught me that the name of the game is wind-collecting surface area. This is faster to design with panels of wood, I think. It requires less design consideration. Additionally, I could probably cut 250 wooden blades in any afternoon, but 3D-printing them is going to require a significant amount of time. So, to answer the question more directly, I guess there isn't really anything that I've found that strictly deters me from 3D printing the blades, but rather several small things that incline me toward wooden blades instead. People often ask me what the goal of this windmill project is, as I've been working on it for well over two years and through twenty-one designs. Really, there is no goal. I do this because it makes me feel happy and fulfilled. I'm not necessarily trying to create a to-market product, nor am I trying to design something that anyone could assemble with only filament and a printer. So, as the Cheshire Cat said, “If you don't know where you want to go, then it doesn't matter which path you take." I'm just taking whatever path I feel like and feeling things out. Maybe I'll take the path of 3D printed blades at some point. That Dremel looks pretty slick. I have a knock-off rotary tool, I wonder if it could use Dremel saw blades? Something to look into for sure. How about you? I think you're probably my most loyal subscriber already, haha. What gravitates you toward this content? Any plans to build a windmill of your own?

You're more than welcome. Glad they proved useful :)

Thanks so much! I'm always amazed at the collective knowledge of a community. Thanks for being a part of that :)

You're totally right. They're super expensive though 😅

@@christophersfactory my local supermarket (grocery store) sells miscellaneous crap on a weekly rotation so I picked up a couple of cheap vises of various sizes. Mine can grab parts up to about 150mm in the dimension you're squeezing, and as Conor said they're great for 3d printed and maker stuff. That bigger one cost like €15 max

@@cian.horgan No kidding? That's dope. I'll have to check around my area to see if I can find something like that. Otherwise, maybe a garage sale.

@@christophersfactory they really aren’t that expensive and you don’t need large ones that bolt down to workbenches, even a cheap one that just clamps onto a desk is enough for most people.

I really appreciate that! Thank you so much.

Oh yeah, and basically point the tapers away from each other, then you could clamp down with up to 2,000 lbs!

Woah, those are some badass bearings! Thanks for the heads-up. At $35 a pop, I'll have to save my quarters though lol!

Thank you!

Sometimes I'll design a feature that can accommodate a steel nut, although I've never tried embedding them. Doing it during the print process certainly sounds more promising than trying to solder it in. Does that method work pretty well for you? What I'll often do is just make a square hole that's the height of my nut, and slide my nut in sideways through it until the screw can meet it. Perhaps a strength test video is in order 👀

@@christophersfactory Embedding nuts and magnets works very well for me. When I'm in a hurry I'll use the open square hole method, but when I'm fine tuning production prints I'll embed. I haven't tested strength but it seems to me if the wall thickness between the nut and the head of the screw is the same they should be about equally strong, though I think with an embed it might be a bit stronger, because the nut is pretty much locked into place while the opening for a sliding nut has to be pretty large to accommodate tolerances on the square nuts, resulting in some slop. In any case, embedding the nuts or magnets (when embedding magnets I use a tiny drop of CA adhesive in the recess to make sure they won't jump out of place, attracted to the other magnets) results in a cleaner exterior surface that looks less DIY.

How do you know when is the time to place a nut during print? Do you wait the whole time until it's ready?

@@lovrocatela8727 If you're imbedding a nut, you'll want to wait until the past possible opportunity in the print to do so, otherwise it's likely that the nozzle will bump it. Personally, I tend to use that method less than just making features in the print that nuts can fit into.

@@lovrocatela8727 After initial slicing, I insert a pause at the first level above the cavity for the nut and then reslice. I make sure that the cavity for the nut is deep enough to accommodate the dimensional tolerances of the nuts to make sure there's no chance of the extruder nozzle crashing into the nut. I also block supports in the cavities for the nut and screw. The layer above the nut is printed as a bridge. While that first layer isn't always perfect, it's almost always good enough to retain the nut and then subsequent layers go down just fine. The pause feature is availabe in the Prusa slicer (and Bambu slicer, too, which is based on the Prusa). I don't have to monitor the printer as the gcode will tell it to pause the print. The Prusa printers will beep to notify you that the print has been paused. I then insert the nut(s) and resume the print.

Good points! Thanks for the heads-up :)

Good point, but it will only ruin the bearing if the force on the inner race is high. For a light press fit in PLA, maybe it won’t hurt the bearing.

That's a good idea! Thanks for sharing :)

Wow, I feel like I learn much more people than I have to share. I'll definitely need to make a Part II. Thanks for the info!!

Interesting -- where is that located in Cura? I've seen several people talk about it but the only one I've ever seen is the vertical tolerance in the experimental settings. Thanks for the comment and kind words :)

@@christophersfactorySlicing Tolerance in experimental settings, lost in tech has video about printing threads in Cura covers it

They're pretty cool :)

ผมเห็นด้วยครับ ขอบคุณที่มาคอมเม้นท์ครับ :)

Explain?

@@alexwang982 For an object to be fixed, we need to constrain 6 degrees of freedom. Restricting ourselves for now to parallel mechanisms, we can imagine any constraint as a infinitesimally thin beam connected between the fixed world and the object. The question is, how many constraints should we place, and where should we place them. For a problem in 3 dimensional space, we need exactly 6 constraints that independently restrict a single degree of freedom each. More details on how to place them (or a more detailed/better explanation of the concept) can be found in the book from Blanding, or various places online. Regardless, you can consider a bearing a constraint of 2. It constrains translational motion in the plane of the bearing. It releases rotation in all degrees of freedom (rotation around the 'main axis', and also around the other 2 axis as shown in 5:52). Adding an additional bearing as in 6:16 fixates the two other rotational degrees of freedom. Counting our DOFs, this leaves just 2: Rotation around the center axis (which is the one we desire to be left open), and translation along this axis. Now the problem discussed at 6:27 is the constraint of this final degree of freedom. In this case, you try to constrain it from both sides with a rigid element/connection, the bolt itself and the nut. These two constraints essentially do the same thing of fixing the location of the bolt in space, and are acting along the same translational line to constrain this degree of freedom. This means that either you will end up with play (i.e. the nut is not very tight, shaft can rock back and forth) or excessive stress, wear and other problems (as in the video). In short, in the video the overconstraint of the axial translation by the nut and bolt causes excessive forces onto the bearing. In the video the problem is exacerbated by the fact that radial ball bearings cannot deal with these axial loads very well at all.

No kidding?! This is the first explanation I've seen that made sense, and I've seen a lot. I was told SS just stands for steel seal. Can you tell me this? -- why would one want seals on only one side of the bearing?

@@christophersfactory A one sided sheild is often used in motorbike gearbox for example. Oil flows to the bearing but not right through so oil flows down a oliway.

That's totally a doable method, it can be a little difficult to ensure that the plastic only deforms where you want it to, and I would wager that that bond is still not as strong as just using superglue.

No freeze the bearing so that it constricts place the bearing and as it expands it’ll fit very tight. It’s how we change wheel bearing on cars.

Which is what it's designed to do. It's full name is Water Displacement formula #40. It's not a lubricant.

I'd be interested to try this! I haven't done much with inserting parts mid-print. I know many people do, to fair success. I just worry about the nozzle colliding with the part. Do you know of any way to avoid that?

@@christophersfactory You'll have to stop the print at the right height. Check in your slicer. You can do that with nuts too.

That setting is for the vertical axis, not where on what side of a trace it should extrude.