Thanks

That atf would save a lot of door skins if people knew

The 3M concrete cleaner was less than 20 bucks at Menards.

Good to know... friend 😂

I use Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep, $17 at Lowe’s. Keep up the great work my friend!!

Excellent great attention to detail

@@MrFireman164 Yeah I hate rust and it easier to prevent it than to fix it after the fact, knew a kid who had a 70 Monte that started rusting from the inside out he was highly disappointed with his resto..... sad!

@@moparnut6286 yes most don’t realize a few surface bubbles means there is a sea of rust underneath

I use phosphoric acid as well. I’ve used in spray bottles, multiple coats, scotch brute where accessible. Coat cavities such as trunk lids, pillars and rockers with either POR15 or Stops Rust. FYI- I found the dairy and brewing industries use phosphoric acid to descale piping. Found at Tractor Supply for $15 per gallon

@@johnbarr6616 thanks! very good I'll look for it next time at tractor supply. I also use clean strip prep and etch concrete prep, it's about $20 a gallon pretty strong too.

Lol, yep everyone has an opinion, I go strictly by the product sheets

I saw a 5/2022 video that the tech had a PPG epoxy high-build that caught my eye was DTM on the epoxy. It is from their “Vibrance” line which not cheap, but I tried without a logon, I could not get the TDS. The closest to me is a 28 mile round trip to my area PPG store, but maybe they will tell me over the phone what it says about use over phosphoric acid. Plus, a DTM has some level of a week acid in it. I wonder if it was phosphoric acid. With chemistry in the paint industry constantly changing, it is hard to keep up. Disabled with a degree of back problems, I will crawl to get my project done, but curious if anyone has heard of it? What acid do they use? Only the TDS knows for sure I just wonder why they made so hard to get this info.

I used ospho on this one, I would be ok with it down inside the doors let us sit for 24-48 hours and kill the rust m, then if you can reach red scotch brite inside where you can, then coat it with whatever you have.

This is ospho but I see several that go to tractor supply or even Home Depot and use there phosphoric acid a lot cheaper than ospho

Ospho has instructions on the bottle, if I remember correctly you treat the metal and let sit for at least 24 hours, spi says “if” you are going to use it, after 24 hours re apply more acid to reactivate and then rinse with water, blow it dry and prime.

@@MrFireman164 yes for oil based paint like Rustoleum. What about epoxy or urethane? I've always reactivated and done by SPI standards, others say no wipe off excess and just let dry, if you get white powdery residue you dint wipe up and used too much. I've had good luck but if I don't need to do all that and just use and let dry I want to save all the rest. Thank you sir. Semper Fi and have a great weekend.

@@kitjasabsgabs1830 this is what I do, ospho wait 24 hours, re wet with ospho and rinse with water, dry with compressed air, 80 grit on d/a then clean metal with 70/30 isopropyl alcohol, dry again then epoxy. May not be right but it’s the way I do it.

@@MrFireman164 thank you for your time. This is how I do it and was told I was not doing it correctly. You have a great weekend. I guess some will say we're wrong even if we do it Their way. Lmao

@@MrFireman164 I saw some bubbling in my repair job on a rear fender. I thought it may have been rust but it's not. I hit with 220 just to see and it's the acid. I did this on a few nice days in early November. I guess I didn't reactivate like I thought I did and now it's bubbling bad. Will make sure I rewet and do correct this time. Got some car rep 2k primer and clear just to see how it works. And it's flawless. OMG to have a epoxy 2k and I don't have to hurry and use within 48 hours as regular 2k primer in a can. Well worth $24.