It is great stuff, and thank you!

I agree with the magnets. I use this trick all the time. One hint, wrap your magnet in plastic. It makes cleaning off the metal shavings easier and less likely to get those pesky slivers in you. Great vids, keep them coming!

Really not genius, just another means of maintaining cleanliness... a piece of tape would do!

@@SuperSpecialty Some people never learned the lesson from their mother: If you don't have anything nice to say...

@@ARepublicIfYouCanKeepIt You’re right, also taught to tell the truth & to be gentle for “they know not what they do”!

@@SuperSpecialty Rather than try to justify an uncalled for comment, simply delete it.

I think the tool is a good way to go if using a lot of plusnuts/rivnuts. Other than the L-track install I only have a few others in the van. Thanks for the positive feedback, always appreciated!

How did it work with the 5mm foam between L-track and metal wall?

thank you!

kenetube I've learned a lot from you and in my opinion, your content is the easiest and clearest on ytube. You're doing great 👍

Hi Natasha, I used a combination of mounting methods. The L-track seen in this video was mainly to support the top of the lower wall panel and the bottom of the upper wall panel, and to provide a place to tie down cargo. But for my actual upper cabinets, I used 80/20 extruded aluminum. I have a video on building the uppers. I then bolted the 80/20 framing to that to frame-out my cabinets. I'm not sure how I would build them with uni-strut but anything is possible. Perhaps if you cover the uni-strut with full overlap-doors and drawers like I did, perhaps you wouldn't see the holes?

Hi, I’m having trouble picturing the mesh like structure. Can you expand on your description of it?

Glad you liked it!

Hi, I've made various attempts at using thermal breaks but I'm just not certain it makes a big difference. I've "heard" it does, which is why I've experimented with it, but I can't say I notice a significant difference between the stuff that is isolated and the stuff that is not.

I worry about the same as my Sprinter has airline tracks installed from the factory already without a termal break. I think I will cover at least parts of the tracks with plastic covers similar to these www.suer.de/en/Load-securing-DIN-and-standard-parts/Mechanical-load-securing/Anchor-tracks/Cover-strip-for-Airline-anchor-tracks-black.html to minimize the open area.

That works too.

Thanks for the reply. I was researching specifically what ship/boat builders use for yachts etc. Its been difficult since many of the companies seem to only sell wholesale. There are two that appear to sell retail that I've found. Singcore and Rhinokore are two that may be options. They claim their panels are a third the weight of plywood and stronger. My concern is being able to join the cut pieces together. I will keep looking at this idea. Thanks!

I did a quick look and the retailer that was selling the plusnuts with the simple tool does not seem to have the product in stock right now. You may want to check ebay and see if someone is selling the tool separately? It's just a bolt, washer and a spacer, but it's handy for sure.

Agreed, I wouldn't tie down a 1,200 lb angry steer in the back of my van, but for affixing portable tables and camping stuff, it's great.

@@ourkaravan I really like your build and your video skills so please don't take my feedback as criticism. I've used riv nuts and seen them fail. When building a vehicle interior it's not just about what you would normally tie down there. We need to think like the vehicle manufacturers do. ...I. e. What happens in an accident including a vehicle roll over ? Huge forces are at play in these situations. Its no use thinking it won't happen to you. (I'm not suggesting you personally think that way but lots of people do ) Build as strong as possible. Replace riv nuts with nut and bolt if access allows. Use rear strengthening bars either way. If it doesn't absolutely need to be easily removable then make it absolutely immovable. A 30lb bed frame coming at the back of your heads is no joke. I know I'm coming across as a killjoy here but I see a lot of road traffic accidents in my daily work. The saddest outcomes are those that would have been easily prevented. Best wishes. John

kenetube thanks! I've resorted to using a carriage bolt and k nut as mentioned by the faroutride website. Plus nuts that didn't crimp seem pretty easy to fix using this method but it's time consuming.

Galvanic corrosion occurs when one metal corrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another in the presence of an electrolyte. The last few words being key. In short, use of the proper fasteners in an RV application should not result in galvanic corrosion. It would be better to not drill any holes, but my van would serve no use to me as a bare van. Use of zinc fasteners helps, particularly when attaching aluminum structures (like the 80/20 I use) to steel of the body. Thanks for the complement!

Thank you for clarifying that.

I totally agree, Kenetube and Greg Virgoe are the two best KZfaq channels for Sprinter van builds.

Yeah, because factory made is better then custom 🤥

I used 1" bolts...there's a link in my store page here: kit.co/ourkaravan/wall-panels-headliner-shelf-l-track I can't remember exactly on the drill bit, but considering it's a 1/4" bolt I probably used one size up to give a little wiggle-room.

The lock washers wouldn't allow you to countersink the bolts, and then the attachments wouldn't slide the length of the track. I haven't had one come loose in 4.5 years, and our van is always off-road.

Thank you!

Hi, the links are in the description below the video. I'll link it here: amzn.to/3IwRYZL Glad you found it helpful! -Ken

kenetube Unfortunately not. I'm referring to those one what you put to the Ltrack anywhere on the track, than you can fix things to the Ltrack. I checked the link, but it's not included. Thanks in advance!

kenetube it's visible, just before the video fade out.

kenetube thanks a lot! :)

kenetube I'll keep researching. Thank you for getting back to me.

I am fairly confident it would. I'm sure someone here can provide the fastener pull out strength numbers...

Good question, and one I have thought about too. I put the L-track there to use to tie down gear (camp table etc) and it seemed like the easiest thing to reorient for different items, but I could have achieved the same thing with 80/20 with carriage bolts sliding the entire length. The only possible advantage I can think of with the L-track is mine is flanged, which means my upper and lower wall panels can sandwich under the lip of it. Otherwise, there are good arguments to be made for just using 80/20.

I *think* the spec bit for a 1/4-20 plus nut is 23/64", however I used an 11/32" bit and it worked great. Very slightly smaller, which required a light tap of the plusnut with a rubber mallet, but this helps reduce the chance of getting a spinning plusnut.

Thanks for getting back Ken. In the video it appears to be 5/16” bit and your links (which I’ve been using) are for 1/4” plusnuts and bolts. Did you use 5/16” plusnuts or 1/4” plusnuts?

@@tylerschmuckle8049 In the near future I plan to reorganize the store to make it easier to navigate. I definitely used 1/4-20 plus nuts here. I used the 5/16-18 plusnuts to hang my overhead cabinets. The body size is 0.384". The stated hole size is 0.386 to 0.391 per this: www.rivetsonline.com/documents/products/crossnuts.pdf Be sure to use page 4 referencing the pre-bulbed version. 3/8" is 0.375" and 25/64" is 0.391". I'd go 3/8" and either tap them in or touch with a hole file. Check my math.

I have never used rivnuts. The fact that you have the tool, I'm thinking why not?

Thank you, I always appreciate the comment!

Thank you Mohammad, I appreciate the words of encouragement!

Are you referring to the countersink hole I put in the track so the head of the bolt is flush?

I did not since my L track is on the other side of the van, but you certainly can.

Hi, I’ve just been using a small pint of Rustoleum oil based paint. I typically apply with a small hobby paintbrush.

@@ourkaravan Thanks...Your channel is of great help! Keep it up!!

I don't have an elevated bed in my van (my seat folds to a bed), but I think there is plenty of support there to do that.

I just used an oil-based rustoleum paint from the big box store. Pint-size, I believe.

Same idea, different execution. Rivnuts mushroom out while a plus nut spreads to form a plus pattern, which offers higher pull put strength. What I prefer about plusnuts is they grab the steel more and are less likely to spin on you.

Hi Blake, I don't have a high-mount bed in my van. My seat folds into a bed. That said, I left the wall panels open where bed panels would go should I decide to ever go that route.

I used these plus nuts: amzn.to/3IzCDt0

I would try eBay. Otherwise I'm not sure, but wish you luck! (The Amazon link works when the item is in stock, but it's often out of stock, unfortunately.)

@@ourkaravan Thanks, did you mean the ebay link works when they are in stock? I don't see an amazon link for plus nuts..

Yes sorry I meant eBay

Found them, here you go: amzn.to/3lI9Y8v

@@ourkaravan ah thanks a lot! That link was sending me to amazon.co.uk, and it was saying there were no results, but then on changing the .co.uk to .com, it showed me what you were linking to. Now I just have to figure out what size matches a M8, I can't get my head around the US sizing system haha.

I have never tried rivnuts, but the plusnuts have worked great for me. They are less like to spin because of how they bite the backside of the sheetmetal vs the rivnuts, which is why I went with them.

@@ourkaravan awesome, thank you! Where are you getting them and that tool?

@@lostgriz I've been buying them on ebay but I have not been able to find them with the handy install tool. If you find a source for it please let me know!

@@ourkaravan will do. Thank you for the help as usual!!

@@lostgriz You're welcome!

I agree, I think the install tool comes into play if you have a lot of them to install. I did not, and the "tool" my plus nuts came with was about as basic as the setup you describe. Thanks for the comment.

​I really think the rivet-gun style tools area kind of a scam. They are an overly complicated way to do a simple job. They are kind of primitive compared to using power tools, and look like a lot more work. Some guys say they also have a tendency to sett he plus nuts on an angle.

Good to know, now I don’t feel like a fool for not buying one.

Not a dumb question at all. My recollection is those holes were larger than the plusnuts I was using. -Ken

@@ourkaravan Ah, well that certainly makes sense. Thanks!

Good suggestion

I definitely recommend the tool if you have a lot of plusnuts to set. I think I only have fifteen in my entire build.