i was looking for the torque and found it in your string below, very helpful video, thanks for sharing

man!! good job. like the illustrations. thank you.

I'll post this even though this is an older video because this problem will persist as long as these engines are on the road. Mine is a 2001 4.7L and the covers ooze oil onto the manifold. I found that the problem is not the big squiggly O-ring type seal itself. The problem is the seal not being squeezed enough to make a good seal. Why is that? Well, the cover is held down with fasteners that bottom out on the head itself. What compresses the the actual seal is the rubber bushing that surrounds the 12 fasteners. If those rubber bushings compress over time then just tightening the fasteners to whatever torque you use won't allow the rubber bushings to exert enough force on the valve cover to compress the seal. Those rubber seals are not there for any oil retention ability and so you can modify these things to work better. They need to be made thicker and you can do this a couple different ways. The method I used was to remove the rubber bushings around the the bolt and spacer and place an O-ring on the spacer/washer before replacing the bushing. This extended the bushing about 3/32" and it then provides that much more compression on the valve cover seal. I had removed the passenger cover to diagnose exactly what the problem was, replaced the gasket and added the O-rings then re-assembled. To test this further, I removed each fastener one at a time on the driver's side cover, added the O-rings for thickness and replaced them without replacing the gasket. It worked. Leaks stopped. New bushings may also work, new ones being thicker than bushings that have been in use for a long time. Depending on how long this works I may just get rid of the rubber bushings and make some thick custom aluminum or nylon washers that will allow the proper 'squeeze' on the gasket and just eliminate the compressed rubber problem altogether. Hope this helps. The burning oil smell sucks.

THANK YOU!! That burning smell is terrible. Just saved me some money! By the way your commander is clean under the hood. Nice Jeep!

I got one oem and took off one of the after market ones and one Mahler gasket and they all have a double flange on them but the oem one

Beautiful 4.7! They are pretty engines👍

I know this is an old post but still a lot of 4.7 's on the road yet.The same thing happen to me. I used Fel-Pro gaskets and got about 200 miles then the right side started to leak. Dodge is using steel bushing in center of rubber bushing washer/seal to secure the cover. So the bolt "bottoms out" against the steel bushing and the squeeze out is now determined by starting thickness - you could over torque the bolts only and not gain any more seal squeeze out because the bolt bottoms out against the steel bushing. I'm not knocking Fel-Pro because I know a lot of people had great results with their products. Funny how my leak was in the exact location as the one in the video. Maybe some kind of design quirk with covers that combined with non-oem gaskets that don't play well together. In my opinion "Grandpa Thugs Garage" has nailed it , if you want a better chance of no leaks (aftermarket gaskets) add a o-ring around the rubber bushing before installing. If I understand his idea right it makes the steel bushing stand taller giving you more gasket squeeze out. I am going to try his method as I just discovered my leak yesterday. Will keep you updated. P.S. -- I used Fel-Pro everywhere when re-doing my timing chain - water pump - main seal - oil fill spout - valve covers.

I rebuilt my 4.7 around 5 years ago and the valve cover gasket and water pump gasket went bad both got from felpro, they were the blue ones. Amazing the difference a gasket makes, just sucks they make low quality on something that can cost us a whole engine.

I just replaced a set for a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Overland....I found the passenger side of the engine a little more difficult to do which had several items needing removal to make room for the valve cover.....it's not very difficult, but it is a pain in the neck....lol....

Have an '06 Commander 4.7L, 155K miles, noticing valve cover 'leaching' oil at lower fire wall corners., (Makes sense with oil sitting there). After reading I'm NOT going to replace gaskets, but because metal bushings bottom out the tightening bolt and doesn't allow enough 'squeeze' on gasket, going to remove the lower tightening bolts and then per 'Grandpa Thugs Garage' post, install some small orings before I put the bolt/bushing/gasket back in and tighten to 8 ft/lbs (106 in/lbs) and see if they put enough 'squeeze' to stop the leak. No matter how much more one torques, the bolt will bottom on bushing. All new gaskets, unless genuine MOPAR wont seal well for long because they are not 'high' enough to overcome the bushing length for proper sealing. I'll try to write back results

Great vid! Really in depth, I'll be doing this soon

Yep. Put new heads in my 2005 4.7L Jeep and made the mistake of Fel-Pro, Blue, aftermarket valve cover gaskets. I guess I did a fairly good install as they lasted 5.5 years before leaking by cylinders 7 and 8. Replacing the aftermarket with Mopar valve cover gaskets at $38 each. Should have done that from the start.

Did you also replace the valve cover grommets? The online listings for the aftermarket ones all include the grommets but the mopar one just has the gasket itself.

What was the special tool used for undoing the fuel rail?

I was thinking I should have got the valve covers too cuz mine are so rotten. It ain't worth cleaning. I'm a new ones. Would have saved me 3 hours 4 hours

Can anyone help me. I’ve been trying to find valve cover gaskets for my 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee overland 4.7. None of the part stores seem to have the right fitting one. How would I go about finding the right ones?

Did this fix your issue

Very good video my friend. I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 4.7, love the truck, only 76,308 miles on it, second owner. Passenger side valve cover is leaking. Should I try just tightening down the nuts? What is the torque spec? I have two torque wrenches, one in ft lbs and one in inch lbs.

Where can i get the OEM ones, and what are the torque specs? Thanks!

nice video ! Did you need to drain the oil before doing it ?

what brand aftermarket gasket did you use?

What's the brand of the aftermarket gasket?

i got the same aftermarket, not leaking problems!! from felpro!!!

Same gasket I got from my remanufactured engine and now their leaking ...p.o.s

so is there a leak since the change?

what about torque and tightening order?

I have to say if you are a lightweight mechanic trying to do valve cover gaskets on that 4.7 l Chrysler motor step away from the job it's all I can say