vwomar Thank you!

The installed height isn't an issue if you are lapping valves when you have hydraulic lifters. There is about 50 thousandths leeway. Even is they are not hydraulic, it is really hard to take just a couple of thousandths off by lapping. That being said, I would also advise anyone with non-hydraulic lifters to check the installed height before and after grinding the valve seats and stem the valve if the lash is not adjustable.

Im still at you for pearl harbor. I almost lost my life over that. Almost, as i was born 43 years after. But it was close.

I have roller lifters and they are all good, my cam is stock looks pretty good., Thought about replacing those but not necessary...being a Vortec options all limited, and I can't afford it right now. Old school Funk is the man as far as I'm concerned! My valve's where the only problem I had. Mr. Funk's method worked excellent for me. I see a judgements here, these methods have been used by working class, and moonshiners for years. Back then there cars where so fast and badass nothing could touch them..In fact they where the same guys whom started a new racing sport, its called Nascar now..So let me ask you guys, how many engines have you designed? Just asking since you guys think your methods are the only and correct way. More than one way to skin a cat my friends.

Don't know how many times you have later valve's Robbie, but sometimes it takes a HECK of a lot more times, of lapping to get your cut lines right , than what you recommend, ..

GASOLINE will find the smallest of imperfections.. try water. If they leak water, then you really need to address the leak.

Use a deep socket that is about the same size as the retainer. The valve stem will be on the inside opening of the socket. Hope this helps

i was thinking more the loose keepers would damage the valve stem on their way out

same here bro... tension pulley broke today. is it necessary valves will be bent? my engine stopped as pulley broke

Sorry to hear that, I got VERY LUCKY, It just barely bent all 16 valves, pistons and every thing else is good.I have to replace the head gasket set, The set also came with valves It's a complete head gasket set, I got both off Amazon for a little over 1/2 the cost for everything. I'm in Topeka Kansas here it was going to cost me about $185 for the head gasket set and $150 for the timing set. I paid $119.00 for the complete head gasket set and $62.00 for the complete timing set. so if you can, Amazon may save you some money. Plus I have prime so it's 2 day shipping. My cost on Amazon was $181.00 local was about $335.00 plus tax.

Kansas You can fluid check the new valves. With the head on its side, insert a valve and hold it snug with your thumb, with your other hand pour the fluid in the port and see if it leaks. If so, I would lap it. Hope this helps

Thank you very much T-REX, I will try that. I'm just really glad there are people like that help people like me. I honestly appreciate it.

If you had a broken timing belt and didn't overheat, you should be fine. I always check the surface warpage limit with a straight edge. If its not within the limits for that particular head, ill have it surfaced. Hope this helps and sorry for the late response.

Because they would rather not tear it apart to see if it's fixable. Easier for them to just drop another motor in it. Especially if they are not paying for the motor.

Yes, it's not a bad idea. Sometimes even the valve manufacturers tolerances could be loose. Lapping ensures "married" seats for a leak free assembly.

The valve seats on a 45° angle. Most production engines use a three angle valve job 30, 45 and 60 degrees. High performance engine use 5 angles for better flow, less restriction around the corners. Remember, the faster the intake and the faster the exhaust, the faster you go. Anyway, the valve always seats on the 45. Yes, I did work in a machine shop for a few years. Did I pass?