To do the floor in my shop, I used inch and a half foam board and two by fours on the flat. With 3/4 plywood. Worked really good.

I'm using a rv 110 to 12volt converter to power mine in my small shop. Works great.

Nice write up on your diesel heater install experience. I also use a diesel heater to heat the topper on my truck. Works great. Like others, I have some suggestions on your installation. 1) You might try using a heavier gauge wire between your Jackery and heater. The voltage drop due to thinner wires may be causing the heater to pull more current than necessary. Can't tell for sure what size wire you are using, but it looked small. I would suggest 10 or 12 awg wire and cut the cord from the cigarette lighter plug as short as possible. 2) I understand the exhaust setup shown is just temporary, but for the permanent install, the muffler has (or should have) a drip hole on the side opposite the mounting hole. This should be placed down so that any fuel or condensation can drip out. 3) Somebody else already mentioned this, but I also prefer having the air intake come from the outside to minimize condensation. There is a hit on heating, but having less condensation is worth it. At least for me. Keep up the great work!

Great information! I'd offer two suggestions for your setup, for your start power issue, get a small 12V battery (I use the little 15AH type, sized similar to an electric start generator battery) and a battery tender/trickle charger you can connect to the Jackery, the battery will provide the amperage needed to get the heater running and the Jackery will keep the charge topped off with little amp draw. Second to address the pump noise, I've found wrapping the fuel line with self adhesive foam tape, especially anywhere the fuel line may wrack against hard structures of the cabinet, can really quiet these heaters down a lot. Best of luck with your setup! Thanks for sharing your experience.

You nailed what others don't mention keeping the unit inside for the heat exchanger to work effectively. Thanks for the video, thorough review, and explanation..

Running it off a motorcycle battery with a trickle charger is a great way to power these heaters. You should never do a hard shutdown; this would happen if you had a power outage. The battery prevents this from happening. I have mine mounted in a hard plastic tote box that’s insulated. The exhaust exits the box using a through haul vent designed for boats, the heat from exhaust line keeps the inside of the box warm. The battery and trickle charge are mounted in the box so they are warm as well. Works great

Very good explanation of the pros and cons. I had considered getting one , but winter camping is on a whole other level as far as food,fuel,and comfort.

Wow! That fuel pump is really loud. I recently purchased a Wippro brand heater like yours based on a review on KZfaq. It's very quiet with just a soft ticking in the background. I believe the pump is well insulated from the chassis compared to other brands. Very informative video!

Exact same setup, like someone else recommended, I put the foam mats from harbor freight on my entire floor then a large rug I had, made a big difference. Great video, thanks for your review.

Thanks for the review, that certainly was thorough look at that heater set up and operation. I was browsing Walmart on-line and saw this heater and was wondering what it was about.👍

Put a house radiator as part of the exhaust, and you will get to use the exhaust to add heat in your office. Thst or make a coil of tubing into a bucket,.open air or in a wood burning stove and run the exhaust through that before dumping it outside will make better use of your fuel. This way your exhast heat will radiate off the coils or radiator and the blown heat can be pointed to cross the room or warm the floor. They way you have it throws away half the heat that heater makes.

Good video. For those afraid to tackle taking these apart to install the exhaust and intake lines, I ordered and used a STREBITO Mini Ratchet Set, 22-Piece 1/4 Ratchet Right Angle Screwdriver. Got it off Amazon for $12. Great little tool that has 36 teeth, meaning you can ratchet it with very small movements in a confined space. I paired that with the NEIKO 10068A Nut Driver Set, $14.95. I have since used it on other projects as well. Everyone should own one of these sets anyway.....they are awesome. Using the listed tools I was able to install the pipes with little to no issue. BTW, using a dremel, I extended the spilt in the pipe an additional 1/8 in. and could probably have extended it a bit further. This allows tightening with a lot less final torque. As for powering your unit, I would use a DC 12V 30A Power Supply 360W Universal Regulated Switching AC to DC Converter sold on Amazon for $20....drop down to 20A and it is like $17. I would go 30A though, I am always for overkill.

Thank you finally someone addressed this issue i was wondering why my diesel heater would shut off using that plug, i just went with the ac to dc power adapter and it works fine plugging it into that, hopefully vevor does fix that issue. Thanks for the content!

Thanks for your review. Great points. I have a Vevor (5wk) all in one unit for my Van and it blast me out on low setting. I wrapped my exhaust pipe and purchased a 90 deg. fitting (From Amazon) for the exhaust pipe because it hard to bent the pipe to fit the unit. Wrapping the pipe is just safer too. Can't go wrong with the Vevor unit.

Old computer power supply is a great way to run these. I personally have a car battery with small battery charger attached. Be sure to have the exhaust at a slight downward grade to allow any condensate to be able to drain to the outside.

I believe 12 volt car type plugs are universally only rated for 10 amps.

Interesting video. I have an 8kw Hcalory portable diesel heater and I have an ecoflow river max and ecoflow mini portable power station and both power the heater perfect. On start up the diesel heater draws around 120 watts for the 1st couple of minutes and once it fires up and starts to run on diesel it drops down to around 6 watts around the same as charging a phone and would then run continuously for days. As you've demonstrated there is definitely a problem with the set up your testing on start up. My set up must demand less power or the ecoflow just puts out more amps than the jackery. Absolutely love your videos. Watched them for a while now. Great content.

I can relate to the problems with language in these instructions. You missed the part where it said plainly, "Do not use Jakely to start!"

I saw a review of this heater on another channel. The exhaust pipe got hot enough to scorch wood, so be careful with it. I would not be able to tolerate the constant loud knocking of the pump.

Awesome video! Gonna go through your channel to see what else I can learn!

Add a 2x6 framed and insulated floor. You’ll have a step up into the office but that will help the cold radiating from the concrete floor problem.

I run mine on a Jackery 300. All you need to do is put a bigger fuse in the actual DC plug that comes out of the diesel heater. With a 300 you can only run it for about 3 1/2 four hours and a full tank of diesel will get you about eight hours of run time.

Floor: Apply some 2” foam board insulation over the concrete. No need to glue down. Cover foam board with plywood. No glue. Done. Insulate ceiling next. With 2x6 framing you can get up to R21 batts. Could also put foam boards on Ceiling instead of Sheetrock.

I also had bought the longer pipe, never used it, and also exhaust insulation and sealant to hold exhaust tape strands in place.

HI JASON 👋 THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ME / US HOW YOU'RE SETTING UP YOUR DIESEL HEATER & THE PROBLEMS YOU CAME ACROSS. PLUS TRYING TO FIGURE / FIX THEM 🤔 HOPE YOU & FAMILY , FRIENDS HAD A GREAT HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY 🦃 😊 ❤BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 GOD BLESS YOU BOTH / ALL ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏 HOPE YOU ALL HAVE A GREAT MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄& HAPPY NEW YEAR TOO 🎉

A little insulation will make a big difference winter and summer. Also a rug with pad on the floor will help.

Nice video,.. you should make this video again after insulating your office... Thx for sharing...

I would also rotate the muffler so that the condensation produced by exhaust can exit out of the weep hole and also I would angle the exhaust so that the muffler is the lowest point of the exhaust so condensation will exit and not run back down the pipe and pool inside.

For anyone who has a drafty cold area, point the heater output towards that area, it's a game changer. Might need to experiment, but never assume pointing the outlet at yourself is the best way, it may very well not be. Spent the last 3 years thinking the wrong way and my brother pointed it at the draftiest area and it's been way warmer now.

I remember VCRs when they came out and probably for the next 10 years I don't think I ever figured out how to get the clock to set on those things

Check with the manufacturer or with another "standard" manufacturer on the maximum length of the exhaust tubing. If you get too long, it will affect the back pressure being exhausted. If the burner cannot exhaust effectively, it's not gonna burn properly. You could be opening yourself up for some issues.

I use a 600 watt transformer 120/240 VAC to 12volt DC constant output !works perfectly. Im getting 11.8 to 11.9 and a viktage drop to 11.4 due to my 100 ft 16 gauge ext cord.

I used a 18v to 12v converter with a milwaukee battery connection (easy find on Amazon) and wired it in. On startup I plug the Milwaukee in and it cuts the draw seen on my Ecoflow Delta Max in half. Once it's running I unplug the Milwaukee and runs fine. I had the same issue if it tripping. No issues now and when camping I could run it all night off Milwaukee if needed... So built in a bit of redundancy.

Throw some rugs down on the cement floor - really quick and easy way to get a small R Value that could make a big difference.

I just tried my 5kw on my 330w power station, not enough power to run at start up but at least I know it will work. Have had the heater for a couple years and now ready to use with my battery system.

I run mine outside and have the the hot air ducted inside. Diesel runs more efficiently in cooler air and i run it on 2hz or less. Also my fuel pump is very quite. I have an all in one by wippro. I have it hardwired to the coach lithium batteries so power is no problem. Have also ran it all night on my vtoman 1500 watt power station no problem. I use to heat up my 25ft class C RV and it's way better than the built in propane furnace.

Thanks for the info. I'd ordered a different branded one a few days ago, that just arrived today. Your video seems like a really good suppliment to the instructions that came with it. I noticed that you mentioned something about a van, and showed a picture @ ~ 14:08. I'm just curious - is that "The Everlanders'" van?

Glad I watched this before buying. I don’t think that I could put up with listening to that pump hammering away all the time

I would use a 12 volt battery in line to have the amperage available for the startup of the heater using a charger to keep the battery full.

It's not a great option but you can use a AC to DC converter for 20 bucks, it drains slightly more power that needed but it's not too bad. That's what I have used for the last year without issue.

With the right amount of cranking amps. expensive or cheap that is up to you and 3/4inch copper pipe would work for your exhaust pipe extension as well Iv seen on a couple RV installs.

I purposely have my diesel heater heating cold outside air and forcing it inside because I wanted to bring in dry cold air to heat, and force out any warm moist air inside through leakage. I will take the hit on the efficiency to keep things dry. I can see in an area where you do not plan on sleeping or cooking where this would be less of a concern.

Great review. Does this run on only DC or is it AC compatible as well? If DC only, maybe running it via a DC power supply plugged into a standard 110 outlet would get past the 15 amp limitation.

I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.

Nice well explained video, What i dont understand is you having startup problems with Jackery 2000, I've ran heater all uk winter with the Jackery 500 no problem temps going as low as -5 in a uninsulated shed.

I just got a 15a 12v AC / DC converter for $25 on Amazon. No power issues for the on on my porch install.

Hi Jason, if I might, I’d like to make a couple of suggestions. As far as what the capabilities are; I have a 12X24’ portable building on my property and I’m using a similar diesel parking heater in it. Temperatures here in the winter are often in the teens and on the colder days in the teens I can get up to 60*f plus. Insulation is key so once you do that that heater will be able to drive you out of that small space! I would suggest using an inverter for the power supply, backed up by your Jackery and I’ll explain that in a bit. The inverters are inexpensive and are 110V AC to 12V DC and are available in 15 amp DC output. Since you have AC power there it shouldn’t be a problem. I would also use the Jackery as backup ie in parallel with the inverter for safety reasons. If you have even a momentary AC power glitch, the heater will shut down hot, especially if was on high at the time and the fan not being able to remove the heat sink from the unit can actually partially melt things such as the circuit board, fuel lines etc…ask me how I know. Also those cold no starts will eventually carbon up the burn chamber which will require cleaning. Also you don’t have to pull the 14*f cold air from outside and that will help as the space warms up. Your office space does not appear to be air tight by any means plus the combustion air requirements for those diesel heaters is tiny. Also the inverter voltage is adjustable so it can be set just a tad above the Jackery and there will be no draw on it at all. Leave a comment if you need more information and we can figure out a way to communicate better via phone or email.

Small 12v utility battery between the Jackery and the heater would keep the battery charged and the extra amperage would come from the battery capacity. You could run it then with just the battery temporarily if needed.

Sounds like a Jackery problem and not a heater problem. I have a gen 1 Inergy Kodiak that has external terminals that the heater can hook up to directly. I have 2 Vevor heaters now. One is going on 3yrs old and a new Bluetooth model. I replaced both of their power supply cords with 8awg wires and have never seen over 9amps on the coldest startups (Michigan winters). Make sure to use anti-gel treatment for your diesel

I didn't see anyone else mention this. The main reason you draw air from outside is to avoid creating negative pressure in your heated area. If you pull air from inside and send it outside air will come in from every tiny crack in your structure. This air will be cold and lower your efficiency.

goal zero has some Anderson connectors with 30amp output. others with those connectors may too.

I get what you are talking about when you say the floor radiates COLD. BUT... I am a HVAC tech. I have to choose my words carefully to not offend anyone. So I will do my best not to offend you and hopefully educate you. This is just to help you understand the difference between heat and cold. Cold is just the absence of heat. Same as during the day and the sun heats up the earth. At night is gets colder. Heat always moves to the coldest object. Your floor has very little heat in it. Once heated up it can then release its heat (radiate) to a colder object. It can't radiate cold. Great video by the way and thank you. I hope I didn't offend you.

Hi. Also good that is inside otherwise you can suck in the exaust fumes and get sick or dead. I run mine on the mountain modus and i am not even 5meter above sea level. It's alot les noisy and it runs cooler. Thank you for your nice video. Greetings of wim from Belgium

Wouldn't it be more efficient to have the air intake in your office to recirculate the warm air rather than taking in cold air from your shop?

Nice job/Good info! Would like to see you test a couple "aftermarket" diesel pump "sound insulators" which are available all over the internet, just to see if any of the insulators would actually help quiet that annoying click, coming from the pump, on these units ??? :^)

12:30 put the unit outside. it's a furnace, just use a cold air return from inside the building space like any other furnace. People commonly have furnaces exterior to the building or in an area of unconditioned space, but it's the choice of the installer to use a return or not. Not using a return isn't an issue of the diesel heater, it's a installer decision to include it or not.

Haven't read every comment but an easy cheap fix I bougnt an ac to 12v cig converter since most power stations have ac. Still portable and still using roughly the same wattage but you plug the adapter in to the ac on your power station so you can get at least 10 amps to feed your diesel heater. My 12v outlet on my power station never actually supplied 10 amps. It's supposed to be 10 amps according to the manufacturer but on two power stations I get the same thing. Measuring it I noticed it shut down before 100 watts. The adapter allowed me to use AC which doesn't shutdown and the 10 amp adapter works for me but you can find them all the way up to 20 amps if you so desire. I didn't want to carry around another battery just for the heater.

Try doing a rubber mount to the fuel pump that will help it not transfer the sound to the frame and that will help make it more quiet. Also use a tiny atv battery in between the heater and the Jackery and that'll help with the startup\shut down power draw that trips you Jackery

1. Read the instructions. 2. Buy a proper power supply. 3. Enjoy correct operation and stay warm. 😁 You're welcome!

For your 12v power, a car battery with a trickle charger/maintainer.

Use an old PC power supply for the 12v. The 12v rail is usually good for up to 50A

If I had to guess the reason it doesn’t completely shut off is because it would have to kick up the amps to fire up those glow plugs. Been looking at one of these. I’d like to install one in my travel trailer. Biggest issue is the fuel tank. So I’m going back and forth on either a unit like this one, or the older types wit the separate fuel tanks. Those Vevor items seem to be built pretty good. Thank you for the video.

Mount the diesel pump outside the cabinet. The cover is amplifying the sound.

Hook up a small 12 volt battery (7ah) in parallel to the supply. You will draw power from the battery on startup then it will charge. You might have to limit the charge current to the battery with a high power low ohm resistor resistor or something else.

Wow that pump does sound quite loud. I have a Toyota Hiace van so not that big. Apart from that the unit looks tempting to buy.

Love your channel as I live in your region of the PNW! But I do take exception to these Chinese knockoff diesel heaters across the board. They are of absolute garbage quality. They guzzle fuel, they pull huge amps, they’re noisy and total unreliable. But I understand the price point issue for folks with the German heaters. But there is a great middle price option and imo the same quality as an Espar or Wabasto heaters. Its the Russian made Planar (now Autotherm). They are commercial marine grade heaters, been in business forever and used heavily in Europe. Not only are they half the price of an Espar, their design and electronics are much simpler and way less problematic. I self installed my unit 4 years ago and it’s been running heavily ever since with zero issues. My Espar buddies have had countless electronic issues and I’d probably be in my 6th cheap Chinese heater with the amount of usage. My 2 cents😊. Thanks for your channel.

Nice, I have a different model I am putting in my big rig for a heating source. The box on it is well insulated, and running of a pony tank off the main tank. Should work pretty good.

just an idea - put the fuel tank outside the office - one day you will spill some diesel, and the smell will never disappear.... other ppl are using a separate battery and a charger, or a dc/mains adapter for the diesel heater.

I found in 30 degree weather my camper van needed 1500BTU for modest heat. Below freezing and expect ice in the toilet.

I’ve got a 5 gallon fuel tank from an old generator. Could I mount it above the unit and splice a fuel line into the existing fuel line for extended run?

Other than just using a 12v 15A adapter, couldn't you take a page from the enthusiast car audio scene and install a 12V 1 Farad capacitor in parallel to provide the full 15A when needed?

I watched some videos with these heaters ,and it looks like they are not very consistent, and have alot of problems, please let us know the reliability, good video.

One possible mistake that could be fatal that I can see, even though this is a temp set up, is that you have your air intake near your exhaust. It is possible is that your air intake will pull in your exhaust. Again, I know this is a temp set up. But I just wanted you to be aware so that when you do your permanent installation, you do not put them near each other.

I use the Bluetti AC70 and it works perfect with this heater no problem, just something to consider when it comes to power banks and diesel heaters. Also that heat setting doesn't work, have used these for 2 years and they never shut off. Unfortunately the manuals are horrible and there is no real explanation on some of the features.

Great video , been looking at these units for multiple applications and that 15 A requirement is something I'll keep in mind. I was wondering the spacing requirement between the exhaust and air intake. I read that if you put the air intake and the air output in the same room it becomes more efficient , what are you thoughts on that ?

Any chance you could make a video going over the controls as you understand them, I’ve got the same heater and do not understand how to do anything but turn it on lol

I run my heater on a jackery 500 but you need to find a liter plug that's heavy duty. I had the same problem with a cheap liter plug.

Confused about the air intake and worried about having the unit in a sleeping space, van/boat/tent?

Is it possible to wire this up to a converter for dc to ac?

The intake goes inside. It's more efficient and it won't kill you with exhaust fumes being sucked in.

To change from C to F press the temperature up/down buttons at same time

i have a 12v-25amp plug on my bluetti, could i wire it for that? otherwise it’s 12v 10a cig lighter

Have you tried using kerosene instead of diesel ?

Put two inches of rigid foam on the floor and cover it with underlayment

HEY! Hello Jason!

Goal Zero, Oupes, Bluetti, and EcoFlow all have 12v 30amp.

I bought mine too, but I have an E10 error, what can I do to make it work?

Is there an A/C adaptor for these heaters? I have electricity in the building, but not a battery pack like the Jackery....

Has your heater stop working because it over heating?

Wonder if the exhaust gas was run into a larger diameter pipe such vehical exhaust pipe, if that would solve the backpressure issue and still capture the heat that would just be spent outside ..seems like a waste ..that pipe gets really hot

Vevor markets their heaters for vehicles. They leave one to assume you can just set it in your vehicle and crank it on, never mentioning that it needs to be vented out side nor do they suggest how they expect you to do so. They say you can remotely start it and let it pre-warm the vehicle. How? Stick the exhaust tube out the window or set it out side and stick the heat tube into the window or do you cut a hole

I wrapped cloth around pump 80 percent ticking quite

The green fuel hose sucks. It's to flexibel. I put a hard nylon 5mm hose with a 2mm boring and a small diesel filter between the outlet of the pump and the inlet of the heater. Burns a lot more efficient. Cleaner and use less diesel. Look it up on KZfaq diesel heater fuel line modification.

I used a 30 amp converter on mine. 21 bucks on Amazon. 4.5 ⭐

The manufacturer cannot make these diesel heaters to run at 10 amps 1. The glow plug is what takes most of the amps 2.with the fan running takes around 2amps before it ramps up depending on if you can adjust HZ then you can control the fan speed and the pump speed other than that if you don't have a way to get in the the main menu (secret menu) your are at the mercy of the controller (display)

You might buy an ALITOVE AC to DC Converter 110V to 12V Converter 20.8A 250W with Car Cigarette Lighter Socket 100V~240V AC to DC 12 Volt 20A 18A 15A Power Supply Adapter.

I have the same one with the same controls and I can’t get mine to prime by pressing the 2 right buttons

Question; Is running the air intake so close to the exhaust creating a danger of recirculating the exhaust back into the room via the intake?

They do make a quieter fuel pump for those but I haven't heard any difference in them..

Actually it takes far less energy to heat cold dry air than humid warm air we dump inside heated air and bring in cold air through heaters far more efficient a heat exchanger to preheat exterior air helps optimize the system used in -20 to -40 Celsius conditions.