Please Read! If you would like a follow-up video on this after 1 year of use and some q&a, please like this comment and post if you have any questions that you would like to be answered below. Thanks for watching 👍

Motorcycle muffler insulation or "packing" as it's called works for wrapping the exhaust in to run it thru the wall. You can actually hold it in your hand with unit running. Another option is to wrap it in motorcycle exhaust wrapping. Both work great!

You'll want an AC/DC converter of at least 20a rating to feed that heater. It needs about 13a to start between the pump, fan, and glow plug. Once it's fully lit off it'll drop down to about 3a of draw. Anything less than a 20a power supply will tend to sag the voltage just low enough that it sometimes will give you that alarm, especially if/when the glow plug gets a little dirty. Fortunately a 20a power supply is pretty cheap and bulletproof.

Glad to see venting heat protection - nice job

Nice to see something from a fellow Scandinavian :) I am working on a diesel heater for our camper at the moment, also from Vevor :)

to make a saw hole to a larger size. put the existing size inside the desired size.

I would put it in an isolated box outside and pull the inlet air to the heater from inside the house to prevent condensation and then send it in again thru another pipe. Both should fit through that one big hole you already got in the wall. Bara en ide! Bra video!

Also to add to my last book.. No volt meter needed as well. Basic group 27 battery and a $5 trickle is doing the job for me. And like I said the smell I was getting seems to get higher as the chamber temp increase. It’s a flange seal unit. It’s not water proof per say. Level 2-3 seems best. Hopefully this helps someone.

I think you will find that the inlet pipe in the bottom is for the combustion chamber only and should be outside.

I have my CDH against an outside wall in a cottage with sawn-lap board clad in aluminum on the outside, and plywood paneling over drywall on the inside. When I installed it 2 years ago, I faced a quandary as to how to get the exhaust through the wood-frame and wood-surfaced exterior wall. The only examples I found were through a concrete foundation, or a nearby window that had a fire-resistant panel inserted in place of an opened sash. Wood normally requires between 4-600°F to ignite, but with prolonged exposure to 150-250°F, it can ignite at as low as 200°F. My solution was to put a 4" dia hole through the wall - 7" from inside to outside. I centered a 10" section of 4" solid single-wall aluminum dryer vent pipe in the hole. I then placed a 3" diameter of the same length inside the 4" pipe with just enough spun fiberglass building insulation batting to center it inside the 4" pipe. I have a ~1" hole dead center in a 4" aluminum pipe cap on either end that keeps the CDH exhaust centered in the hollow 3" pipe. This rig keeps the outer surface of the pipe at well below 150°F on the inside with ambient of 75°F in the area around the heater with the pump at 2.8Hz. In fact, the surface of the pipe can be touched and held after 24hrs of continuous operation right where it makes contact on the paneling inside and it will not burn your hand - although it would not be comfortable to maintain skin contact for more than several seconds if the heater pump rate is set at 3.5-5.2Hz for several hours. Outside, only the small protruding 1" actual exhaust pipe even has any heat - even at outside ambients as warm as 50°F, the exterior 4" diameter casing and cap is not even body temperature at the higher heater settings. The set up also insures that the exhaust pipe from the CDH maintains enough heat to prevent any condensation in the exhaust as well. Once the temps outside drop below 45°F, I keep the CDH running pretty much continously. It has a 14VDC Meanwell 14VDC 17a output power supply connected with a 800MCA series 27 Marine battery and a 30a solar system instant'lossless switching relay - so that if the power goes out it will stay running on battery without the controller resetting to standby/off mid-operation and causing a meltdown. The only time it gets a shutdown is if I need to leave for more than 30 minutes or more. Then it gets a rest-cycle. So, I have had 2 years to note any protential problems with the exhaust system.

One more thing you could do to help capture more heat off the unit - run a longer exhaust inside the building before exiting the tube. That will let the hotter length of tubing radiate heat inside before it goes thru the wall. That will be "phaze 4"!

Special Trick: When drilling using the large hole drill saw: Step: (#1) Only drill (1/2) way through till only the drill just breaks through the other side. Step: (#2) From the other side completely drill through wall. Step: (#3) Instead use a (3") gas heater vent. (Inner Pipe).. Step: (#4) Use black "wetted" fiberglass motor cycle exhaust tape.

Fuel gelling up and false starts because the fuel won’t start first and you would have to put a quart of gas in 5 gallon of diesel to get to ignite better and you may have to add more gas if it’s super cold and doesn’t want to start. But this me and Iam not telling body to do anything except what manual says .

Please read!!! I just wanted to say as a new user of this heater. I took it to my 4200sq shop, not assuming it would heat the shop but with 3 furnace’s @45 degrees my bill is over $500 so the purpose of this heater is to keep my feet and fingers warm while I am rebuilding lower units and transmissions. I ran a 25’ vent hose to reach the drive stands. Works perfectly @ #2 on setting. Exit chamber is @180-187* . Today i added length to the exhaust (3/4)x 10’ pipe and within 20min the chamber temp climbed to 210* and the fuel pump was pumping faster. And a combustion smell. To me, that’s a rich/lean condition. Try it yourself. To note: the same applies to HVAC units. ( each 45 adds 2’ in line set.) bottom line less length and wide bends on the exhaust is best.

Nice clean installation. Well done. The only thing I would be aware of is the exhaust ground level with snowfall.

You said you wanted to shut it off because it was too smelly?? Can you please explain what you meant because it is not supposed to smell like diesel at all...

If you are ever stuck with the holesaw that is wandering around just go through a pice of thin plywood or strong cardboard and that will steady the bit on the next hole.

Nice video ❤❤❤

9:11 and that is how you build yourself a katana!

Yeah they lie about the power draw on these things. They only use a couple amps once they are running, but on startup it can be 15 to 20 amps. My 12 amp supply wasn't even enough for mine. My solution was to add a 12V 7AH NiCD battery pack. That gives enough extra power to start the thing, as well as act like a UPS if I have a power failure. You don't want to lose power to that while its running, the hot heater core will melt the plastic case if the fan stops running. I also like the NiCD better than a lead acid battery, BC I can keep my PS set to 14V and that will keep the NiCD pack charged without ever over charging it. Running the heater at a slightly higher voltage is better bc the fans run a bit faster. Its also rated to 16 volts so it won't hurt the heater either.

Very informative video. Looks like you were using an LED power supply. This will restrict the maximum voltage and current to the point that the heater doesn't get enough startup power. (Power in Watts = Volts x Amps.)

I imagine the smell was from the initial heating of new burner parts and should go away after one or two burns. Nice install. You are belt and suspenders with your wall pass thru (LOL). I imagine you moves the condensate drain hole to the bottom before final sealing?

A glass pack muffler might could do the trick. Aren't those diesel heater's exhaust pipes notorious for splitting open at it's seam?

Could use metal asbestos chimney pipe to go through wall as a liner.

He’s a Happy Hole cutter lol !😊

How hot did the wall feel from the exhaust? I want to install one but need to vent it safely without spending $$$$$ on horizontal ducting

Great video. For the metal exhaust, what do you call the rims you put on both sides? Would have been great to see how you did that. Thanks!

You can ramp it up to heat the space faster and then turn the setting down to maintain the temperature. This will also quiet the unit down with a lower setting.

These heaters have a built-in "low voltage" protection for being wired in to your RV or Semi sleeper, they actually shut off somewhere around 12.2V or 12.4V so the heater doesn't run your battery down too much and your vehicle can still start in the morning. If you are wiring it permanently, either get an adjustable 12V power supply that you can tweak to 12.6 - 12.8V or get a DC-to-DC step-up converter and tune it to that voltage. That will take care of your E2 error codes. These thing pull a little over 60W (if I remember right) while the glow plug is on when it initially starts up and then drops to like 20W when it's hot enough to run without the glow plug.

Hi, at the end of the video you mentioned there was a bad smell. What was that due to? Do these heaters cause a smell in the area they are placed? Would it be better to put the whole unit outside and duct in the hot air?

I was wondering if you could pls share a link or purchase info for the flange that you mounted on either side. Didn't have any luck at the local home Depot

Fridged air does not contain a lot of moisture. Humidity levels in winter are very low.

What is that thing called you put on the pipe on each end? I need them badly!!! I use a bean tin for my heater exhaust 🤣

Think i recognise that hole saw haha

So it took, 3 hours to heat your work space? How big is the work space? What was the outside temp?

Vad var det för lukt som du pratade om i videon? är det diesel eller rök?

Computer power supplies work well

Det säkraste är att köra den från ett batteri för om det blir strömlöst under drift så kommer kontrollkortet i den att gå sönder då fläkten stannar.

I have seen a video of someone, running the exhaust tru un old boiler filed whit sand . Creating a sand heat battery.. maybe un idea for you

If you put a return as well as flow, and put heater in a insulated box As a lot of UK home owners are doing to avert the high energy cost her due to the war. there will be no condensation. its the opposite maybe to dry a heat for some! I heat the whole of my ground floor of house on lowest setting using 150 ml per hour just under 7 hours for 1ltr of kerosene in my case as its much cheaper than diesel is in UK

Could you put the unit outside , run the air intake and heating line thru the wall so you dont have that noisy unit running inside ?

#2 heating oil same as diesel , but added color

You have a perfect AC unit there! Why the need for a CDH?..

Trouble is with these videos is that other people say running the input from inside will increase condensation. Very difficult to get a difinitive method of installation.

De är glödstiftet som drar mycket ström vid glöggning ca 10A vid uppstart på min Vevor 5kW sen drar den ca 40 W på full effekt. I princip kan man montera ett litet batteripack parallellt med nätdelen typ litiumjon 3S 2-3Ah minst 5C bör räcka för uppstart.

Shouldn't need the muffler. Just maybe a screen to keep the bugs out when not in use.

Choice #1 A small AGM with trickle charger Choice #2 House connected to UPS Choice #3 Spare motherboard located in sock drawer...Lol Just Sayin.

i would consider a longer pipe outside, i could see that blowing back in if you have the door cracked. i hear they are considering banning these because don't get he corbonmonoxide far enough away.

It sounds like paint and oil burning off when so crank it wide open for a couple hrs out side should cure you smell test .

You should take the air from outside and feed it to machine with another pipe. With current setup you will burn out all of the oxygen and you may pass out. Unless you have very good ventilation.

How come you didn't run yhe exhaust into a heat exchanger , then out the wall . Heat exchanger also gets warm and keeps garage warm .

What was smelly?

That is a good setup as your air going in is already pre heated, not drawing it from outside. Great presentation. TKS.

Central location will warm better not stuck in a corner.

What brand did you buy it I just wandered in the room in the middle of your video mine you can hardly hear it run you hear little tick tick tick tick tick and that's it and a little fan noise but hardly nothing

I need to remove the plate on this heater to change the glow plug. Can you help?

I would have to put through the wall higher up because of snowfall

Next time use a hole saw the size of the hole thither the hole saw the size you want it one inside the other and boom

One problem with having the heater inside is the noisy pumps which continuously clicks away

People are always trying to use ac-dc converters when they are designed to use batteries, and get all kinds of weird error codes.

You do realize the Fiberglass, I.e. what you said will burn. Are actually used in insulating very hot pipes. Like steam lines in power plants. Former U.S. Army Engineer here.

A 2 KW heater will heat a 8 X 8 X 7 foot room even if it has no insulation in the floor , walls or ceiling .

Dina händer börjar också klia av bergullet som är isolering i din vägg. Ps. De brinner inte. =D

use a piece of plywood with same size hole as a guide next time.

It's drawing to many watts because of the glow plug

Suppose it snows and blocks your low lying exhaust!!

Minus 20?? Diesel turns into slush when it gets super cold like 0.

Smelly? You literally could not be able to smell anything there's something wrong with it that one because again I can't hear mine run hardly at all it sounds like a tiny fan running and I can't smell a damn thing not a damn thing

If you get an exhaust leak between the unit and the wall, the room will fill with carbon monoxide.

thats not 8KW

It is NOT a 8 kw . Not even close.

To much work for the average person

Dude n old computer brick would put enough power out if u have one !!!