You are more than welcome, I'm glad you got it running...I'm not asking much just subscribe and share it with others who you think might benefit from it...that's all😉👍

@@MidlandCruiser can I have your pay pal address as would love to give you a drink as can’t in person

😄 that is really not necessary, I really do appreciate the gesture though...I'm glad your bike is running and you love it.

Sorry, but wasn't needed at that time. When the weather improves, I am planning to go for a little faster ride-out with mine so everybody can enjoy the exhaust roar, and the scenery if you will be able to something 🤣

Thank you very much... I really appreciate it 👍👍 I'm glad you like them and I know exactly what you mean...dark, 240p, hand-held, and can't hear anything 😄 Welcome to my channel😉👍

After nearly 40 of them I think it's about time😁

😁👍

You're welcome... Glad you find it useful. Yes the 750 is slightly different, but the main steps are the same..

Hello. Thank you. Them aluminium shields actually nothing to do with heat...only decoration. Imagine how would it look like without it on the right side with all the chrome...ugly The reason is only one is simply the rear cylinder intake boot is not visible so doesn't need it😉😁

Me personally like the genuine stuff, but many used K&L without any problems. I heard that the Tourmax is good, I used thier brake master cylinder kit and it was identical to the Genuine, very likely it is the same.

Hello, typical problem. Your float stuck on the bottom position and not coming up to close the needle valve. I have foud a design problem with the bst 40 carbs which will allow the float to stuck against the float bowl. I solved this by soldering a little tin bump on the needle valve seat where the float touches it, so it can't go that far down...fixed 3 bikes so far, none of them had issues since. Or just simply you got some crap stuck in your needle valve, but considering it happened after a longer period of sitting my bet would be the design issue with the needle seat. Quick fix is if you knock the carbs with a screwdriver back end, to free the float, then every day or 2 keep topping up the carbs with the pump so the float can't get to the bottom position to get stuck. In this video in the first minute I explained this and show a photo what I did later on, and how...Hope this helps

Located in the middle almost close to the intake biggest screw on there idk what its purpose is

They are for syncing the carbs only, there is no petcock or booster which need vacuum. So in normal use they are always plugged. The 1100 from 96' uses tps to advance the ignition instead of a booster, and never had petcock so no vacuum needed