You bet!

You bet ...thanks!

Had to trash the New Balance's. Wore out the soles.

😆

Bro your hurting my brain cells with that grammar

@@itsfreegaming7082 you’re*

@@Ruleno.9 you made my day 🤣

Thanks! You're right. Lots of work go into making these videos.

Glad the video helped you out!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks for sharing and should be an easy job.

Thanks! Replacing a clutch is much more involved.

It does help to even out the wear between the outer and inner pads.

But missed the fact that his slide pins were seized. Those are floating calipers, so its not releasing the outer pad from the rotor. Which is what caused the outer pad to wear down and the inner to look like new. Cleaning and greasing the pins and the holes would have taken an extra 30 seconds and extended the life of the pads by 30,000 miles.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad I could help!

Thanks!

Thanks but with this brake design the brake pad ears slides on the caliper bracket when it wears. The pins only hold the caliper to the caliper bracket and don't move.

GromitDog1 You are absolutely right

​@hardlymovingpro, pins are not moving, but the caliper should slide over those pins. Looks like you're not familiar with VW brakes.

As the brake pads wear, the fluid in the reservoir drops as fluid migrates into the caliper piston cavity. When performing a brake pad replacement service, the piston is pushed back in caliper which will make the fluid migrate back into the reservoir. A common mistake that people make is to fill the reservoir back up to the top level not knowing that the fluid level drops as the pads wear. So when the piston is pushed back into the caliper during service, the reservoir may overflow due to the excess fluid previously added before the pad replacement.

Thank you sir

You bet!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Know anyone you can give you a hand?

@@hardlymovingproNo

Not a difficult task with right tools

You bet and thanks!

I'd guess that the ears of the brake pads were not sliding evenly on the caliper bracket. This is why I cleaned up the slides with a wire brush and lubricated with brake grease before mounting on the new pads.

If the fluid level is below the full mark, pressing back in the caliper pistons will push the fluid level back up. As the pads wear and the pistons get extended, the fluid level will drop. Check the fluid level first before taking the wheels off to determine pad wear.

Thanks!

Get Akibono, Bosche, Raybestos or ATE brake pads. All high quality. Akibono is the best ...imho.

It's Normal. Factory pads are just tuned to not resonate at an audible frequency

At first I didn't see the value in this design until I started working on them. Some Ford's use this design as well.

Nope. The front and rear wear rate is different.

Given / bought wrong pads for the car?

From my recollection, yes 19mm.

@@hardlymovingpro thanks

Thanks!

Yes. The caps are cosmetic.

On some replacement pads, the shims are rivetted to the pads. If yours aren't, the shims may be moving around causing the clunk. What I do is apply a product called "CRC Brake Pad Quiet" between the pads and shims and let it dry. It's like RTV but semi hardens in a few hours. You can also apply the CRC where the caliper ears makes contact with the pad shims. That should take care of your problem.

Sorry. The lug nut key is unique to the lug nut set. You'll need to go to a custom wheel sales and installation center to get a replacement.

If it came with one.

Nope.

The rear brake pistons are screw types; that is, you have to turn in (clock wise) the piston back into caliper. Here's a video where I did it on a Honda: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nKpzdLyKxLPQYIE.html

Can't advise without taking off the wheels and examining the brakes.

The dust boot, in some occasions, may not completely recess back into the caliper during the piston compression; however, after the caliper has been remounted and the brakes pumped, the caliper piston will push out and the boot will follow.

@@hardlymovingpro I wasn't referring to its position when the piston was pushed into the calliper. I was talking about how it sat around the piston at that time stamp. Not all of the outer edge of the boot seemed to fully inside recessed lip at outer edge of the piston. It only seemed to be partly secured around the piston. If you've ever rebuilt a calliper, then you'll know that the piston has a groove for the boot to sit it. It didn't seem to be fully in the groove (lip).

Yes ... I've rebuild calipers. Here's the link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/itWIg9JoyqrHo2Q.html

@@hardlymovingpro So you'll no the recessed part of the piston I'm talking about. Check your video at the time stamp I mentioned. It doesn't look like your boot is properly seated in that lip.

No air will enter the system by compressing the caliper piston back in.

I use to resurface but now get new corrosion coated rotors. The quality, performance and metallurgy seems better than non coated ones. Regardless, don't put on new pads without resurfaced or new rotors. There is a braking performance difference.

@@hardlymovingpro appreciate the response! Any recommendation on which rotors I should get? Looking for brands w high quality and performance but not overly expensive. Thanks again!

Recognized name brands like Raybestos, Centric or Wagner. Stay away from store brands like Duralast and don't buy slotted or holed rotors. No one will resurface them.

@@hardlymovingpro will look into those. Thanks alot!

Go to rockauto.com

What tools are needed? Just that #7 hex head, the flat head screwdriver, brush, and whatever size socket for the lugs?

I use the fluid level on the reservoir to determine if my pads need replacement. When the pads where, fluid migrates from the reservoir to the caliper piston hole. When you push the pistons back in, you're pushing the fluid back up to the reservoir. Removing the cap helps to reduce the back pressure (although the caps has a small vent hole).

All you need is the hex socket to remove the caliper. Can't state the sizes. I have complete hex and socket sets and find the one that fits.

Never tried so I wouldn't recommend.

Pad sizes and types may differ based on the year and style of the car. All that info can be obtained by the vin #. Speak with the parts vendor to get the right one.

Just take your old ones off and take it with you to the Auto parts store.. p.s hope you have another vehicle 🚜

@@kevinrobles7768 yeah i got the right brake pads and i had a friend install them but while doing so we found another problem which i had to go to a mechanic and it costed me 700 paunds :(

Is there a wire coming out from the old pads?

Nice to have but not necessary.

Nope. The new pads need to seat into the new or resurfaced rotors.

You can use a large C clamp. The screw of the clamp can sit inside the hole of the caliper piston.

You have to recess the caliper piston back into the caliper for the new pads. Otherwise, the pads won't fit over the brake rotor.

@@hardlymovingpro but don’t u have to use a press that turns the caliber? Because some have to turn to push it back in.. how do u know if it needs to turn wile pushing it in..

If you want to use your old rotors, you should get them resurfaced assuming there's enough metal to cut. Out-of-round rotors will cause steering wheel vibration, effect braking efficiency and create inconsistent pad wear. Oreilly's provides a service where they resurface for around $12 a rotor. Here's a video where I resurface rotors: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m6ugjMyXvr26ZZ8.html

@@hardlymovingpro thanks! What if I have new rotors and old pads? Can I break in the new rotors using old pads?

@@chuongtrinh3852 no .. because they are groves up.. u put brakes that are scratched with groves on it to a rotor that’s smooth .. Ur brakes will put them scratches and groves back into the rotor or vice versa .. u wants smooth on smooth .. rub ur finger across if u feel groves it’s no good .. u will only tear up the new item that’s smooth ..

Watch this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m6ugjMyXvr26ZZ8.html

The grinding could be worn out pads down to bare metal. With the tools I used, you should be able to do it yourself with a friend.

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you so much

Could be too late but...you have to push back the rear piston with a press which rotate in the same time the piston...Many cars have this feature because of the integrated hand brakes ...Don't try with regular C clamp, I understand that is possible to destroy something inside..That press is available on Amazon and many other places.

@@eduarditogonzales4485 you don’t have to buy a special press to rotate the piston and push it at the same time. Disconnect the parking brake motor with t30 torque head, use impact driver with t40 to turn the motor clock wise until it stops, and then you can use a c clamp to push the piston. Just did it on my 2010 Tiguan.

@@VG-xh7gx Instead of press kit which is 20-25 $ would be more advantageous to buy impact driver, C clamp plus 30 and 40 Torx bits? More than that I have no idea where is the parking brake motor...

Sorry. Don't know.

Should be the same if VW hadn't changed their design.

Auto repair not for everyone.

Good for you!

DIY not for everyone.

Clamp the brake hose with a hose clamp tool? Easy way to damage the hose internals. Open caliper? You mean compress the caliper piston? Send trash up your system? Brake fluid is part of a sealed system ... what trash? Sorry ... I'm totally confused with your post.

You've never seen or heard of brake line pliers? They're plastic..... if a hose is damaged by plastic then it should be replaced. BTW you can't compress fluid with a caliper my friend, unless it has air in it. As far as brake fluid being contaminated by a sealed system.....absolutely it is. Not only is it contaminated it's gone through extreme heat and sudden cooling unless you don't drive in the rain. Look, you had some great points but the lack of experience on brake jobs shows and that's ok..... we're here to learn...I'm glad I could help you with that. Im glad I was able to teach you some things and anyone who sees my comment too. Hey I appreciate you finding some grammar errors on me. Stick to teaching English? Cheers!

@@marka9049 Thanks for your comments! Good to know how the other side lives! FYI - Done hundreds of brake shoe and pad and rotor service jobs including fluid flushes/exchanges, replacement of brake boosters, master cylinders, installation of malfunctioning abs controllers purging air via bi-directional scan tools, rebuilding stuck/frozen caliper pistons, replacement of abs speed sensors, re-surfacing warped rotors, etc. Never, ever had any of my co-worker use "brake line pliers" ... and never, ever pinch or bend brake lines! Perhaps techs of 40 + years ago with weaker, obsolete line materials. Brake fluid, being hygroscopic, deteriorates by moisture absorption. It's not oil! This is why manufacturers, such as Volvo, recommend a complete evacuation of brake fluid after a few years regardless of the pad wear status. The moisture absorption and fluid deterioration is not isolated at the caliper; rather the entire system. Excess moisture will cause corrosion on the caliper pistons as well as the master cylinder's shaft which will result in premature seal wear. Moreover, braking at high altitudes would be compromised since the boiling points of the fluid would be lowered. As a final note: caliper pistons are recessed into the caliper by professionals using various piston compression tools to choose from negating the need to open the air bleed valve and replenishing lost fluid. But by all means, service the brakes the way you feel most comfortable with.

@@hardlymovingpro tbh most shops are going to do it the same way he did I’ve done it for years it’s never failed me. Never had any break issues from pressing pistons back in without clamping hoses. To each their on though it’s your car.

@@hardlymovingpro do u know which models of jetta comes with brake shoe sensor i m trying to figure out if i have sensor or not i have a model 2.0 engine its the lowest model thanks